Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

An ER collet chuck, which will limit the length of material that can be held, will be available from suppliers other than Machine Mart. It is possible that it will be almost the same item, but possibly cheaper.

Search Arc Euro, Warco, Chester, Axminster, RDG, for a start. All these offer ER chucks for either Lathes or Milling machines..There will be other suppliers as well, without a doubt. Look at their websites.

Howard

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Philip,

I have the smallest one of the tap guides from ARC and they work very well. You can of course make one if you don't want to buy one.

Thor

[Phil WhitleyParticipant @philwhitley94135]

Strange that NDIY chooses one of the least windy days of this year to share these figures! If you go to https://www.gridwatch.templar.co.uk/ and look at the graphs comparing wind output with other forms of energy, you will see that wind outstripped nuclear for most of the last year, and on certain days was supplying more than 35% of the grid load, and on several days it was supplying the largest percentage, even outstripping CCGT, which is a very clean fossil fuel, and almost 50% efficient, as opposed to nuclears 33%. Wind is very quick to install compared to nuclear, which is probably the slowest, and most expensive. Coal is hardly ever used nowodays although Drax gets susidies for burning biomass, which is actually wood pellets imported from America…..?

The reason fewer and fewer people accept the reality of climate change (TM) formerly global warming, may be because of the number of lies told by the promoters of this lucrative idea.

As any of you who remember the 1970s may remember, there was scientific concensus then too. All the scientists were in agreement, the planet was heading for another ice age, and we were all going to have to get used to living on a much colder planet. This belief continued till an American scientist, Jim Hanson, adressed the senate and told them that the planet was actually warming, the ice caps were going to dissapear, all low lying land would be swamped by rising sea levels, the lower east side of New york would be under water, and all this was going to happen by the year 2000. There is only one reason that scientists address the senate, and that is to obtain funding for research. Funding was granted, and lots of scientists started doing research that would ensure the continuation of the funding.

So what has happened? Virtually nothing, no ice has dissapeared beyond known cyclical variation, the polar bears, supposedly going to be made extinct by global warming, have increased in numbers from an estimate of 17000 to over 26000. sea level rise has not been convincingly shown to have happened anywhere, indeed sea level in norway is falling, as the land is rising due to tectonic plate activity. All the Glaciers which are supposed to be receeding have historically receeded further than they have today, mainly in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Neither pole is anywhere near ice free, indeed ice levels are around normal, and the bits breaking off at the edges are icebergs, which sank the Titanic long before global warming. The reason ice flows into the sea, and down glaciers is pressure, millions of tons of pressure caused by snow falling and turning into ice at the head of this glacier, and inland in the case of polar ice. If the ice is not breaking off at the edges it is a clear indication that there is no snow falling inland, if however it is breaking off, in large amounts, then heavy snow is turning to ice and squeezing down to force ice into the sea at the edges of the land, where tidal action and salt water take it toll. Incidentally the Arctic ice is floating sea ice, it is already displacing more water than it contains by virtue of waters unique property of expanding when it freezes, if it ALL melted, it would not affect sea level at all, it may even fall a little!

Has anyone considered what happens when the planet warms a paltry few degrees? The first thing is that evaporation from the seas increases, and we get more rain, and for the UK this is certainly happening, although how much of this can be attributed to climate change, and how much is caused by the apparent shift westward in the low pressure areas that usually form up over northern Europe is anybodies guess. More rain means more dissolved CO2 falling on the planet, and more plant growth, which absorbs CO2 from the air. CO2 is NOT A POLLUTANT, it is plant food. If the CO2 level in the atmosphere falls below 250ppm, plant life will start to die off, then we are really in trouble! Strange then that the people who are advocating a plant based diet are also promoting removing plant food from the atmosphere?

Acidification of the seas? Forget it, Sea life has been living by sequestrating CO2 from the water and turning it into calcium carbonate for probably billions of years, and billions of tons of their shells and skeletons make up the sea bed, any change in acidity causes an infintessimally small amount of this alkaline buffer to go back into solution, and equilibrium is restored.

So what do scientists agree on? well if one was cynical, one could say that their continued agreement ensures their continued funding, and it is said that you can get funding for any research project if you tag "with respect to the effects of climate change" on to the end of your projects title. What scientists were asked, and what they agree on, is very simple, Has the planet got warmer since the end of the "little ice age" in about 1850? and of course they all agree on that, because it has got warmer!

It is impossible to computer model the climate of the planet, and expect the results to have any connection to reality. At the last count the "climate scientists" were polling and combining the results from 13 different climate models, and the fact that their predictions have all failed completely to show any correlation with reality prove this.

Imagine enough spinning tops to cover the entire planet, some spinning clockwise, some anticlockwise, and all in intimate contact with each other at their peripheries, predicting which way they will move and what effects they will cause is a gross simplification of weather forecasting. The climate is much more complex and much less predictable.

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

The solid carbide cutters can be used dry on steel, but oil might help the finish. You will have to proceed using several passes, reducing the depth as the ammount cut increases each time. Very careful lining up will be needed, I have had frequent lop sided results from rounding cutters. All of my rounding off has left tool marks, on cast iron, steel and aluminium which did not matter to me, but you may have to do some hand finishing.

ARC do HSS ones, they look like the solid carbide type.

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Corner-Rounding-End-Mills/4-Flute-HSS-Corner-Rounding-End-Mills

Edited By old mart on 27/11/2020 20:46:05

Edited By old mart on 27/11/2020 20:48:33

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Niels,

My Zither 6 inch independent was purchased from ARC some years ago, I believe that ARC doesn't carry Zither chucks any more. I use the 6 inch 4-jaw quite often and consider it good value for the money I paid. ARC lists a slim body 2.5 inch under Clearance Items, others may still stock them.

Thor

[peak4Participant @peak4]

Posted by William Ayerst on 27/11/2020 15:13:39:

Interesting stuff! I guess buying the drill pad from Myford isn't a complete loss because I'll end up with an MT2 arbor to mount something like the above to, potentially?

I've seen a few hand drill presses with 2-speeds that look like they might fit the part. J…………..

To address both points, those drill presses do work OK, and of course used to be used before everyone had powered bench drills, (or even drill presses for hand electric drills.
I'm sure they aren't as accurate as a Pollard or Meddings for general use, but I got the impression you don't have any sort of a bench drill at all, so better than nothing and cheap if sourced with care. i.e. don't spend ages searching for one, but keep an eye out.
As mentioned, it can always be used to hold a tap vertically, and mine almost permanently has a countersink bit in it, to save swapping things on one of the bench drills. Probably only worth doing if you drop on one at the right price; I think I only paid a fiver, though it was many years ago.

re. The tailstock arbor thingy. There's much cheaper ways of buying a blank MT2 arbor, See ArcEurotrade as an example.
When I first wanted a couple of MT2 arbors, I made them myself with an offset top slide, and a bar in the 3 jaw. The finish wasn't brilliant, as the operator as well as the gib strip/dovetails was a bit dodgy.
When I needed some more, I'd already obtained a boring head, so used that in the tailstock, to provide an off-set centre if you see what I mean.
That allows you to turn a bar between centres with a taper on each end; cut the bar in half and finish up with a matched pair of blank arbors, (with a nicer finish having used power feed).
I do appreciate though that you were looking for projects that didn't involve building more tooling.

Bill

[Nick WheelerParticipant @nickwheeler]

I bought mine from Cronos about 15 years ago.

It uses T-nuts that fit the slots well at 11 and 17.5mm wide, with M10 hardware.

The hardware and clamps are much bigger than most jobs need, and get in the way.

Every time I use them, I tell myself it's past time that I made some new nuts and clamps using M6 threads, like in Harold Hall's articles/book.

I notice that Arceuro do smaller step blocks that would be more suitable for this size clamps.

[Philip AParticipant @philipa30666]

Finally purchased an X2 Mini Mill (Sieg).

But I can't find the right size clamp kit. The slots on the mill are apparently 12mm, but I'm not certain what the stud size is. The Arc Euro kit uses 12mm nuts and 6mm studs, but Mini Machine Shop is saying that 12mm nuts with 5/8" studs fit.

[Roger ClarkParticipant @rogerclark]

Posted by Meunier on 24/11/2020 20:40:59:

Are you seeking a replaicement for the dear departed goldie ?
I only ask since I am certain I spotted a fishing boat in the background of your piccies

DaveD

Haha, no that's a Modav Fairey Hunstman for restoration but I do have a Billing Boats Rainbow fishing cutter static kit to convert, must get my skates on and get it done

Posted by Dave Halford on 23/11/2020 17:41:54:

So have I missed something and this drill does not have a MT extractor slot in the spindle?

Yes you missed the lot and I really wished it had

I have ordered one from Arc Euro and it should be with me by tomorrow, Emma @ Meddings replied to me today regarding spares for the drill, they only had a s/h safety guard carrier @ too much money so I'll make my own.

Regards

Roger

[PETER ROACHParticipant @peterroach92938]

Paul,

Arceurotrade supply some bellows which may be suitable. However you may be able to salvage what you have. Don’t let it dry out any further, a bit like the Mary Rose. You need a good leather saddle soap or a leather sofa treatment and slowly feed it. Once it supple you can remove section that beyond hope, patch the holes and replace pieces. Either glue or stitch or staple. Even just a gorilla tape mend. Option B is to replace with rubber sheet skirts, but seems a shame to change them if you can restore. Someone with an small industrial sewing machine could be useful and a trawl around charity shops for old leather jackets. I been there done that, have a machine, just the task indoors on a winters night?

Peter

[ChrisBParticipant @chrisb35596]

I get my tooling from all over the world – mainly I try to get the best value for my money. I had purchased branded carbide endmills and inserts from APT and Cutwel in the UK expensive when compared to prices on the censored Chinese auction site. I mostly use the Chinese endmills for most of the roughing out and the branded ones for finishing…I would much rather break a cheap one which cost me 30Euro for a set of 8, rather than a single branded one costing 39£.

I'm also always on the look out for good stuff on Ebay. I made good deals on a rotary table (sold by ARC), slip gauges, GMT boring head, etc…mostly used branded tooling I could not afford to buy new.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Clive Joseph 1 on 22/11/2020 07:35:12:

…

What are the experiences of the Chinese tooling – seems very cheap ! not always a good sign but are they OK for the hobby engineer who may not demand heavy cuts or the speed of production that industry requires ?

Still require a good finish though

 

Thanks again Clive

 

The answer is a definite yes, no and maybe!

In the good old days there was a sharp divide between 'good' tools and cheap rubbish. Buying expensive brand-names was a safe way of getting a decent tool. And because tools were expensive compared with income, it was worth investing in the very best in hope it would last a lifetime. Hence a busy market for stolen tools, and people taking considerable care of their hideously expensive gear.

Engineering and commerce have both moved on. Now there's a market for very cheap, mid-range, and high-end tools. Mid-range tools have become popular even with professionals; rather than buying tools for life, it's often more economic to replace worn out tools, and they're much less likely to be nicked.

So far so good except it's difficult to tell which is which. The likes of ebay make it harder : is it cheap because it's rubbish or fake, or cheap because its top-quality surplus or bankrupt stock?

Brand-names are unreliable indicators too. They don't reveal who owns the company, or country of origin, or guarantee quality. These days most famous brands are owned by multi-nationals, who manufacture wherever it's cheapest.

You can't draw general conclusions about tool quality from country of origin either. Manufacturing in 2020 doesn't rely on trade-secrets, long experience, apprenticeships and craftsmen. Today, production can be set up almost anywhere in the world. 'Quality', (I hate the word), is set to maximise profit, and is largely driven by the customer. Model Engineers crave quality but are almost never prepared to pay for it.

All manufacturing nations follow much the same trajectory. They start with cheap tat and then move up-market. Birmingham England once led the world in cheap rubbish, and were pushed out by even cheaper rubbish made in the US and Germany, who in turn were forced up market by Japan. None of these nations make cheap stuff today because there's not much profit in it and it's brutally competitive.

For most of my life China's industrial capabilities was a joke. Chairman Mao's foray into backyard steel was a total failure, producing the worst steel at the highest cost in the world. Bonkers. Twenty years later China adopted Western technology and methods and grew into the largest manufacturing nation in the world. Same trajectory: start cheap and nasty, then go upmarket. Although they still make plenty of tat, Chinese quality today ranges all the way up to junior aero-space.

It makes purchasing difficult! To reduce the risk I favour buying Far Eastern tools from UK vendors. The importer takes responsibility in the event the item is a dud. I don't expect perfect tools to arrive every time, I expect the supplier to money back or replace if I get a dud. In contrast, buying direct from China is cheaper but a bigger gamble if it goes wrong. This approach is unsuitable, I think, for most professional workshops. A batch of duff inserts inconveniences me, but would cost a professional real money. They prefer to pay for reliability!

It boils down to how you feel about tools. My attitude is utilitarian; I'm focussed on what I need to do and don't care about tools provided they get the job done. Others find warty tools frustrating and offensive! Not good because hobbies are meant to be enjoyed. In that case, either buy new from industrial vendors, or carefully select second-hand tools as they come up.

The problem with second-hand is they are second-hand. A 'quality' tool in poor-condition isn't worth having unless it's just for show. Costing a fortune when new with a rock solid reputation for quality does not protect second-hand tools from wear and tear:

Dave

PS.  Specifically about inserts;  I agree with Old Mart.  Have a look at the range of holders and inserts sold by ArcEuroTrade:  they're hobby suitable.    You don't have to spend days understanding industrial catalogues.

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 22/11/2020 10:52:26

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by PETER ROACH on 21/11/2020 11:01:01:

Martin,

seig do a large range, dealers don’t stock the entire range, but only a small offering. See seigind.com or **LINK**

if you want a specific machine, find a good import agent and buy what you really want, rather than second best, cause the dealer has it. But echo as above , think before you hit the credit card.

 

Peter

Hi Peter,

Some clarification, and corrections are in order:

• The SX2 or the SX2P are small mini-mills. It would be too costly for Martin to import by himself direct from China, even if SIEG were to supply him directly, probability of which are next to zero nowadays. He would be better off looking for supply of the machine from a reputable European dealer.
• ARC introduced the X3* back in 2003, and promoted the SIEG brand, before SIEG understood the meaning of branding, and well before Axminster decided to to promote the SIEG brand. In the early 2000s, it was possibly for any individual to purchase directly from SIEG. Most such individuals saw the machine in our catalogue, as well as at the shows we attended, and then decided to buy direct. Originally, SIEG obliged, but as the dealer network grew, many dealers persuaded SIEG to re-consider their position on direct supply to individuals in areas where SIEG has dealers. In-turn, distributor loyalty with SIEG has grown to a certain extent.
• Each dealer – distributor decides which machines they wish to sell, as well as the versions of the machine which they wish to sell – MT/R8. If the end user/buyer wishes to buy an alternative machine or alternative version, the dealer decides if they wish to supply the version the buyer wants. In most cases, SIEG will not interfere in this process.
• ARC only sells models and versions of SIEG machines which it wants to sell. This is based on 18 years of ARCs sales and service experience in this industry. Requests for models and versions outside the range we sell are politely declined.
• Earlier, with reference to collect chuck systems, you mentioned: 'they offered their own version of a collet system, which you have with 6,10,12 &16 mm collets.'. Yes they do. They look similar to ER collect systems, but are non-standard, with limited availability of collets, and generally expensive. In the early days we used to offer non-standard collet systems which were same as SIEG, but quickly dropped them after understanding limitations – especially for sales, and costs which are higher than ER. I believe that one or two competitors still sell the non-standard system.

* Although the X3 is still sold by SIEG in small numbers, it was discontinued by ARC in 2013, and replaced with SX3 – Brushless motor version.

It is important that Martin considers his direction based on current trends, and for this reason, the above clarification is made, without any disrespect to you Peter.

It would be better for Martin to consider Bazyls, Stuart Smith 5s, and Journeymans suggestions.

Ketan at ARC.

Edited By Ketan Swali on 21/11/2020 15:19:59

[Stuart Smith 5Participant @stuartsmith5]

Martin

Jason did a series Milling for beginners in Model Engineers’ Workshop magazine. There is a forum thread with more info to go with the magazine articles: **LINK**

Arceurotrade have published a book I think based on this series: **LINK**

It may be worth looking at if you haven’t already.

Stuart

[Andy_GParticipant @andy_g]

Posted by Jay Nugent 1 on 19/11/2020 13:46:13:

My job this afternoon is downloading every drawing, manual, part number and measurement, I can possibly find on the thing…

The Arc Euro Trade strip-down guide is very good.

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/machineguides/C3-Mini-Lathe-Dismantling-and-Reassembly-Guide.pdf

Your lathe may not be identical, but it is likely to be very, very similar.

[UncouthJParticipant @uncouthj]

Posted by JasonB on 19/11/2020 13:26:25:

Looks like the shield has come off the 91p bearing so not too expensive to replace, I'll leave it to others to explain how to replace as unfortunately that bit is not shown on ARC's strip & rebuild guide.

Though if no dirt has got in and it's running OK, I'd get a bit more tape.

Brilliant, that was my thought also. Thanks for that Jason.

My job this afternoon is downloading every drawing, manual, part number and measurement, I can possibly find on the thing…

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Looks like the shield has come off the 91p bearing so not too expensive to replace, I'll leave it to others to explain how to replace as unfortunately that bit is not shown on ARC's strip & rebuild guide.

Though if no dirt has got in and it's running OK, I'd get a bit more tape.

[OldMetallerParticipant @oldmetaller]

I bought one of these:

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Lathe-Turning-Tools/8mm-Parting-Off-Tool-with-Parting-Blade

Sorry it won't paste as a hyperlink.

I use it in my four-way tool post on my ML7 and it is fantastic! For bigger jobs I use RDG's rear tool post, but for the smaller stuff I make, the Arc tool is absolutely unbeatable, and inexpensive.

Best wishes,

John.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Here is what the late JS had to say about them, I've not altered the text as the PC thing was not his way, thread was titled 10-20-40 blocks.

Plus 20-40-80's

Come on lads get your hard earned coin out and get splashing.

**LINK**

Top of the page.

Bit of history first, the original 1-2-3 blacks were made by Starrett and the idea was they bolted together to form angle, tee's, used as packing or to bolt items to to preserve squareness.

One of those items that never had a specific designed use but was different thing to different people, very useful.

However at some stage these blocks went over to Taiwan and were copied but they drilled all the holes tapping size for 3/8" UNC, tapped some then hardened and ground them before changing the un-tapped holes to clearance holes.
Result is they wont bolt together as designed and since then millions of sets have been copied and made in India, and China. Even the Starrett ones are now wrong as they have them made out.

Another problem even for people with decent sized machines is they are too large, at 1" high they are 2" wide and at 1" wide they are usually taller than the average vise.

Soooooooooo, may I present these blocks above?

Again hardened and ground but they CAN bolt together and are of a size to suit most muddle enjuneers.

Listed as The Stevenson blocks because that cretin Ketan at ARC is still pissed off I gave him a quid for a nearly new X3 CNC mill and I told him not to name them after me. Wouldn't have been bad if I got royalties but the tight bastard wants the mill back first and not prepared to give me the quid back.

Seriously nice bit of kit and my pre production set has been in use daily for the last couple of months, in fact the 1-2-3's haven't been out the drawer.

Full marks to Ketan for listening and getting something done about them.

John S.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

David's link is to the wrong machine, these are the starter sets for the SX2P, I'm sure ARC could put together as set for a SX2 as well but taper will be different.

[David George 1Participant @davidgeorge1]

Hi Martin have a look at the Arcerotrade web site as they have a selection of tooling for this mill and a starter set which may help. https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Milling-Machines/SIEG-SX27-Mill/SX27-Starter-Sets/SX27-Mill-Starter-Set-2-091-030-00352

David

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

If it is a new SX2 and you are in heh UK then that will be coming form Axminster and comes with a No3 Morse Taper spindle. If it is the SX2P (Plus) you are thinking of from ARC Eurotrade then they have an R8 Taper.

In either case you have tow options for collets.

1. Direct fit finger collets that fit straight into the spindle taper, these give a bit more head room as they do not really protrude beyond the end of the spindle but you need one size for each diameter you intend to hold.

2. Use a collet chuck that has a shank to fit within the respective spindle taper and then get a range of collets to suit that, The ER type collets would be the usual choice and on that size machine ER20 if just being used for tool holding or the larger ER25 or ER 32 if you also want to use them for work holding in the future. Each of these collets will hold a small range of sizes so you could also hold a drill bit or imperial cutter in the right size collet for example 9.8mm drill or 3/8" cutter will fit a nominal 10-9mm ER collet.

Source I would say go to a known hobby supplier as direct from China can be a gamble and easier to deal with if you have any problems. A typical ER25 starter set, you can add more collets as needed and the equivalent MT3 shanked one.

Edited By JasonB on 18/11/2020 07:31:08

[Ramon WilsonParticipant @ramonwilson3]

Packing it up from the bed is just fine – holding it to an angle plate or vertical slide allows infinite vertical adjustment but packing of the right height is okay. One thing to really take note of is not over tightening the clamps – not quite so important with cast iron as it is bronze but if you do distort it then the bore will be distorted once the clamps are released. This is one op where that simple slip of paper between the part and clamping surface pays dividends.

If you make yourself an expanding mandrel as has already been suggested you can do both ends of the cylinder as normal facing operations absolutely square to the bore – no fly cutting required. Move that to the mill and you can do all the other ops from the centre line of that mandrel – either still in the lathe chuck if you have a dividing head or as already suggested too bolted to an angle plate or even a piece of steel held vertical in the milling vice.

Doing the bore from the chuck is just as practical but you do run the risk of a taper – not much I grant you and yes you can lap it out but that's more tooling and another op.

If you took a look at the link I posted you will have seen what I mean about a mandrel – once you make these and get used to working with them you will realise just how useful they are. It's much better to make your own. I have a set bought from Arc Euro – they've never been used because they are never quite right size wise.

Any way you are In Jason's good hands so I'll bow out now – too many cooks etc – will end up getting you confused

Good luck with your build – I may be joining you soon

Regards – Ramon

[Bryan Cedar 1Participant @bryancedar1]

Glad to report that my efforts at drilling in 3mm stainless of unknown grade have paid off. I ordered a carbide tipped drill, the sort used to drill locks. It did cut but very slowly and produced fine grains of swarf. Changed over to a 5% cobalt drill from Arc Euro and the difference was amazing the swarf being long strands of swarf. Job done. Thanks everybody for the suggestions.

[Me.Participant @me1]

Ive just had a thought – I note there's a BT40 to BT30 Adaptor. Arc Euro Trade part number 120-010-44030

If I use one of these it already has the internal taper already cut – then all I need to do is recut the outer taper to suit my Herbert taper… Job done.

Your thoughts please.