Search Results for 'arc euro'

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

I’m a bit dubious about using a textile cover such as cotton.  Cotton especially is well known for moisture absorption  Surely if your workshop is damp, textiles will absorb moisture and retain it, keeping it in contact with the metal of the machine for longer?

 

I have a rather damp unheated large garage in which I use part of as a workshop.  I actually use a product sold by Arc Eurotrade as a coating but my main weapon is to use a loosely fitting polythene cover over each machine and I have very little problem with rust.  Even using just the polythene covers previously I have had little problem. I found that the moisture in the air seemed to fall down onto the machine (a bit like rain) and and the covers prevent this.

 

On my milling machine I kept the large poly bag it came in and actually use that, on the Boxford I simply drape over a poly sheet .  It seems to work.  Hand tools etc are kept in cupboards and drawers and don’t have a problem with rust.

 

By the way, Arc Eurotrade (usual disclaimers here) sell a very good rust remover for use with hand tools  and small components, which removes rust and forms a protective coating and seems to work incredibly well.  Not sure of the name but it’s in their catalogue.

[Vapeur89Participant @vapeur89]

Of course for a small 4466.43 Euros you can purchase from issue n°1 to 151 at http://www.abebooks.fr/servlet/SearchResults?sortby=1&tn=%22model+engineer%22&x=0&y=0.

 

More seriously, thanks for the work done

Patrick

[Mark Smith 3Participant @marksmith3]

No, I haven’t seen a Manson engine but I have heard of it. I’d be interested to hear how you get on with it and see some pics. By the by I don’t claim to be an expert just a student of stirling engines and a tyro at model engineering. I too am searching for that ellusive missing power and efficiency that these engines promise without the huge expense and time Phillips has invested – probably pie in the sky but you never know unless you try.

 

Pressurisation, it is claimed to be the single best thing we can do to increase the power, but, as Ian has pointed out in a previous post, there is a limit to  how much pressure a given engine can stand and  that depends on the fluid used and how efficient the cooler and heaters are. So you are right to say that the greater the diffference in temperature excursion the more efficient and powerful the engine but it all depends on so many other factors; pressurisation is just one of them. However, having said that, Andy Ross has made a 35cc engine that produced 44 watts at  2,750 RPM at atmospheric pressure. That shows there is a lot to be learned before we get to adding any extra pressure – given that most model engines are measured in fractions of watts.

 

How are you holding up with all the snow. I hesitate to say the tempertatures here in Christchurch are usually in the mid twenties. I see the snow is causing problems right across europe at the moment.

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Hi peter sorry to doubt you,I was thinking that if you needed a draw bar you might be going to use an end mill in it sideways,but looks like you’v found the answers,and at those prices you can’t go too far wrong.I see those bits in he Arc Euro Trade Catalogue (got copy with ME V-interesting,not much use here),it is useful in that it shows whats available in UK,and lets me know what you are talking about.Good drilling,Ian S C

[PeterBParticipant @peterb58166]

Wow!  I go away for 24 hours and there’s a wealth of useful replies.  Thank you one and all.  I should have said the chuck is for a drilling job – PCD holes using my new XY DRO.  I have a Clarkson Autolock chuck for milling. 

 

I looked around for a new chuck arbour and found just the thing on ArcEuroTrade’s website.  MT3/JT6/M12-drawbar thread all for £4.50 incl VAT.  At that price it must be Chinese – but I’ll get one – and just hope that its been accurately made….(?).  While on the site, I also found screw-in tangs of various sizes so one can convert a draw-bar arbour back to a tang arbour for alternative applications in seconds.  And all at £1 each.  (No connection with the Company, etc_). 

 

Thanks again for the super-quick and constructive help.

 

Peter

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Meyrick,

                     I did use scales from Machine DRO and Chronos for the long scales but modified calipers for scales less than eight inches. For the compound slide on the lathe I found the four inch calipers from Arc Euro to be the smallest cross section to save space.

I have also built a display for the Z axis which displays the main Z axis on one line, the quill on another line and the combined value on the third line.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 28/12/2009 09:23:49

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

In answer to your first question about hobbing cutters then ARC Euro do them.

 

Another source for involute cutters is RDG

 

Jason

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Just looking at the ARC EURO TRADE catalogue that came with ME a few months back,they have theSieg model S X1L Super mill,weight(net/gross) 40kg/56kg,I don’t know if they make some thing between that and the X3 wgt 135kg/160kg,but if there is a X2 it would be about your wgt limit,but even the X1,could be worth looking at.Unfortunatly the collumn tilts,but set it up to 0 and lock it.I like the square collumn.Havn’t seen one of those this side of the ocean.Ian S C I see it has no 2 MT.

[Billy MillsParticipant @billymills]

Hi,

Sounds an unusual stepper, 18V suggests high inductance windings which would be slow with constant voltage drive. 48 steps is unusual these days too. Cannot say if 176 is sensible since more information is needed e.g. the motor type & drive.   Is this a new build or an existing machine?

 

Most  common steppers are 200 steps and around 5V voltage but it’s the current rating that is of more interest. At high stepping rates the rate of change of current is limited by the winding inductance and the applied voltage, you hit a steeply declining torque  when stepping quickly.This can then cause the motor to miss steps and “run rough”.

 

The way around this is to use a much higher voltage but to limit the current to the rated value by modulating the on/off time of the drive- that’s pulse width modulation PWM the speed improvement is roughly the overdrive voltage ratio- however it is a bit more complicated than that.

 

A second area of improvement is to increase the apparent number of steps from full stepping. Half stepping doubles the steps per rev by powering both coils between normal steps to produce a mid position. Microstepping allows a much larger number of steps by having many incremental steps of current to position the motor between full steps.  ( although microstepping is not a strictly accurate angular interpolation)  8 usteps gives 1600 steps/rev on a 200 step motor  ( 1600 steps is easy and a tad up on 48 steps/rev.

 

So a modern microstepping drive with PWM will drive the stepper much faster than simple whole step voltage drive and will not show the “resonance effect” where the motor fails to step at the driven rate. It also allows much finer control of rotation so that less gearing would be needed in an EDM application.

 

In an EDM application I can only assume that you are concerned with the  advance and backing out rate  since you would need a vast amount of power and cooling to  spark out the metal that fast!  But perhaps you have a  gear train slowing the backing out, If so switching to a low voltage stepper with a microstepping drive could produce a substantial improvement and  get rid of some of the gearbox.

 

  Arc Euro Trade supply a good range of steppers and some inexpensive microstepping drives, their website also will lead you to the “Jones on Steppers” link, one of the best intros into stepper motors.

 

regards, Alan.

 

 

[mgjParticipant @mgj]

I agree with Jason – 4jaw or faceplate with dogs and trepan it.

 

As for the larger view. I have an Axminster (Arctrade euro do hte same modle I think if you prefer red over white) power hacksaw which is superb.Costs a little more than the cheapest bandsaws, very good for bar and square, not so hot for sheet, but adequate if you use Jasons clamping suggestion ot stop the (thicker) sheet flexing..

 

bandsaws offer more flexiblity in use I think, but as modellers we don’t often cut sheet, and when I do i just put it in the mill and use a slitting saw. Other stuff I use a proper sheetsaw –  i’ve had to use it a couple of times in 5 years, so on that basis the performance of the power hack per £ spent is pretty good.

 

Cuts straight, evenly and the blade doesn’t jump the sprockets, and replacements are not expensive!

 

A high grade top end bandsaw is a different thing.

[Roland BoyleParticipant @rolandboyle26037]

I am not near the mill at the moment but as far as I can remember the test bar is about six inches long supplied by Arc Euro Trade. I measured at the top and bottom of the bar with the same result. I did remove the spindle and it appeared to be tight but as you mention it Jason I can move the test bar about 10 thou each way at the bottom of the bar.

Unfortunately I did not know that a test certificate should come with the machine. Good point about measuring the inside of the taper. Thank you all for your help so far.

[David Clark 13Participant @davidclark13]

Hi There

Looks reasonably balanced.

I would buy the Tee nuts, nuts and washers and clamps from J&L.

The cheap sets leave a lot to be desired.

Then use standard lengths of mild steel studding.

Don’t forget Arc Euro Trade, good quality and good prices.

regards David

 

[Steve Bell 1Participant @stevebell1]

I have a Leinen lathe that uses 1.25 module change wheels for screw cutting.

I would like to cut some gears that I need but am unable to find anywhere that sells a 1.25 module cutter at a reasonable price (tried Chronos, RDG, Tracy Tools, Arc Euro and generally looking on the internet).

 

I only need a couple of cutters for gears with higher number of teeth, upwards of 55.

 

Couple of questions

1. Anyone know where to get the cutters?

2. Anyone have experience of running 20 DP gears with 1.25 module ones? From my working out on a gear with a PDM of 150mm and 120 teeth that I have, it is 20.3DP, and a 6″ gear with 120 teeth would have a module of 1.27 by my reckoning.

Since 20DP cutters are fairly cheap I was going to make 20DP gears and go with the slight error as the gear ratios will still be the same, just wondered what other thoughts were?

 

Thanks

 

Steve

 

 

[Steve Bell 1Participant @stevebell1]

I have a Leinen lathe that uses 1.25 module change wheels for screw cutting.

I would like to cut some gears that I need but am unable to find anywhere that sells a 1.25 module cutter at a reasonable price (tried Chronos, RDG, Tracy Tools, Arc Euro and generally looking on the internet).

 

I only need a couple of cutters for gears with higher number of teeth, upwards of 55.

 

Couple of questions

1. Anyone know where to get the cutters?

2. Anyone have experience of running 20 DP gears with 1.25 module ones? From my working out on a gear with a PDM of 150mm and 120 teeth that I have, it is 20.3DP, and a 6″ gear with 120 teeth would have a module of 1.27 by my reckoning.

Since 20DP cutters are fairly cheap I was going to make 20DP gears and go with the slight error as the gear ratios will still be the same, just wondered what other thoughts were?

 

Thanks

 

Steve

 

 

[chris stephensParticipant @chrisstephens63393]

Hi Gordon W,

I seem to recall that ARCEURO sell them, but be very careful when using theirs. The small pilot is very small and will break easily, don’t ask, don’t be tempted to drill normaly. The technique is to “peck” drill, this way the swarf will not jam up the flutes quite so quickly. It is good practice to do this with all centre drills! Saves a lot of breakages.

chriStephens

[mgjParticipant @mgj]

There is of course another way.

 

Set all dead straight.

 

Off set the topslide. to the right angle.

 

Measure accurately  the thick dia and the thin end.

 

Turn two short tapered  collars to size and take a groove out between the collars.

 

Its going to be difficult to get it dead right, so some adjusting with emery, oil and engineers blue is going to be necessary, but it will do it without all this chatter bit, and use of bell -ends.  (I have a couple – lucky me!. Arc Eurotrade do them)

 

You can always test by taking the whole chuck off – don’t loose true centre.

 

Last alternative.  – Hemingway – taper turning attachment.  Make – fit  – use. Recommended – gets over all these problems. You can extend it too, so its long enough to do loco rods and traction engine con rods etc. (I wasn’t going to pay for a Myford one)

[NilochParticipant @niloch]

J.Malcolm Wild on page 65 of his book Wheel and Pinion Cutting in Horology says: “Finally we come to the ultimate in dividing in the lathe.”  He goes on to show how these(1) products may be attached to the rear of the lathe mandrel using, I presume, a component similar to the one to be found in his kit for attaching a traditional Myford dividing head in the same position and shown here(2a).

 

There is a British equivalent  shown here(3)  making use of a Vertex rotary table.  Similarly I guess these(4) tables might also be suitable.

 

My questions are (a) whether all rotary tables have a hole all the way through their centre so that they may be attached to the mandrel and (b) whether any horologist has experience of using such a set up?

 

Thank you.

 

 

Edited By Niloch on 12/11/2009 11:55:09

Edited By Niloch on 12/11/2009 11:57:24

Edited By Niloch on 12/11/2009 11:59:34

Edited By Niloch on 12/11/2009 12:04:18

[Martin CottrellParticipant @martincottrell21329]

Hi Maff,

 

I fly (crash mainly!!) model helicopters and the main rotor drive utilises what is called a ‘one way bearing’ which allows the motor to drive the rotor blades in the correct direction but allows the motor to stop whilst the blades release their inertia by spinning down slowly when the power is cut to the motor.

 

As mentioned by John above, I would try Arc Euro Trade as I’m sure they do similar bearings and roller clutches in “our” sizes.

 

Regards, Martin. 

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Try Arc Euro Trade

Edited By David Clark 1 on 11/11/2009 09:56:26

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Not a wiggler as such but Arceurotrade do two metric edge finders that can be used as a wiggler.

 

John S.

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Frankly, I would just get an X1 mill and not bother with trying to add an attachment to an older lathe.  The X1 with the long table from Arc Euro Trade is quite a nice machine and will take much bigger workpieces than a lathe saddle, and as you say the price is at least in the same ballpark.  I just bought an X1 for conversion to CNC because I didn’t want to risk messing up my Myford VMB (and the latter is also a very heavy machine to work on), and I think that though it has a few limitations it’s a nice bit of kit.

 

John.

[Michael Cox 1Participant @michaelcox1]

Try looking on http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk . They have the 7x 14 asian minilathe and various milling machines.

Also look at http://www.amadeal.co.uk. Their machines are very competitively priced and will even supply the 7 x 14 complete with a 4 inch chuck rather than the normal 3 inch.

I have had dealings with both companies and service from both is excellent.

Mike

[David Clark 13Participant @davidclark13]

Hi There

Arc Euro Trade do a 1in. parallel shank to 2 Morse Taper.

They may do a 1 Morse taper version but if they don’t you can always use a 2 to 1 sleeve.

regards david

 

[mgjParticipant @mgj]

Wheeltapper I agree entirely. Its just a PITA packing and shimming under tools, and then keeping the tool and shim pack together and never having quite the right bit of shim, and taking one out when you regrind a surface.

 

So a quick change post is a much more convenient bet IMO. You can always add to the kit later, buying single holders as you go along.

 

The question is which QCH. I have a Myford Dickson one on the Myford, and one of the lever operated ones from Arctrade Euro on the big lathe. (Chronos also do the same piston operated one) I just have too many toolholders to change on the Myford now, but starting again, the Chinese cheapie is infinitely better.

 

There is a problem with those Dickson types – much copied, (Chronos and Axminster and RDS) and some of the copies don’t fit that precisely and those are not as rigid as some. Maybe they don’t use a mounting block thats identical to the original? Trouble is you never know quite which holders you are getting, because some do fit perfectly!.

Edited By meyrick griffith-jones on 13/10/2009 22:21:13

[Peter G. ShawParticipant @peterg-shaw75338]

Frank,

 

Because I broke mine a few weeks after purchase, I obtained (under warranty) replacement plastic gears from Warco, however at about the same time there were a number of articles in MEW about improvements to the X1 lathe, and other equipment, As a result, I decided to incorporate some of these into the MiniMill at the same time.

 

My problem is that a) it is a hobby, and thus doesn’t rate overhighly in the general scale of things; and b) I get involved in doing other things, both hobby type, and for the house & grandchildren, hence I haven’t yet finished the repair/overhaul.

 

It may be of interest to note that like other people, I have found casting residue where it shouldn’t be!

 

As to the actual gears, this does involve a major dismantling to get at them, eg (from memory) remove motor & controller, remove spring return, remove top stop, lift head upwards and off the slide, remove slow and fast vertical feed mechanism, remove speed change lever, remove rear of head (it’s in two parts), remove intermediate shaft (requires knocking out of bearings, and finally remove main shaft/spindle (also requires knocking out of bearings). 

 

Then replace and rebuild in reverse order.

 

The Arc Euro Trade metal gear set does appear to be a direct replacement. I haven’t tried them for a fit, but they measure exactly the same as the original plastic gears and so I have no reason to believe they will not work. I have to say that I only found out about these after I had obtained and fitted the replacement plastic gears, so they are now in stock just in case. I’m loth to replace until forced into it because of the difficulty in knocking out and replacing the bearings.

 

Yes it is true that there are belt drive conversions available for the X2, and by all accounts they are quieter as well, however, until I see that someone has successfully converted a MiniMill, I will leave well alone, the reason being that although the MiniMill does appear to be based on the X2, there may well be, in fact definitely are, slight differences between the two mills, eg the spring return system for the vertical motion, and, I think, the location of the speed gear change handle. Furthermore, I have a general dislike of making changes which cannot be reversed in the event of unforeseen problems.

 

For what it’s worth, I do now think I may have made a mistake in buying this mill. One of my reasons was because of lifting limitations as a sole worker, however after I had bought the maxhine, there was an article in MEW where someone bought an X3 or similar, and dismantled it to get it into place – something that I never though of. I did want the biggest I could comfortably handle, and had the idea of dismantling to install occurred, then I may well have gone for a bigger machine. Having said that, I do not have any reason to criticise the MiniMill – I went into it with my eyes open, and it does seem to do what it is supposed to do.

 

Hope this helps, Frank.

 

Regards,

 

Peter G. Shaw.