Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

As always, service from Arc Euro, above and beyond!

No wonder they are top of my preferred supplier list, although, at my age, Ketan will never get rich on my purchases!

Howard

[PatJParticipant @patj87806]

Forum software that I am familiar with are "SimpleMacines", and "Xenforo".

The SimpleMachines software is pretty nice, but I must say I prefer Xenforo, as it has some really nice features.

There are forums that feature advertisement sections for forum conversion services to convert your forum to Xenforo.

You have to do your own research and be sure that whoever you select has a long history of delivering excellent conversion work. There are some unsavory folks offering conversion work, and you certainly do not want to use them.

I have ported one forum from SimpleMachines to Xenforo, and the result was seamless, with no data lost, and no problems since the change (I hired someone in Europe who had excellent references).

The advertisements used here would probably require some customization to the standard Xenforo package.

A Xenforo license can be purchased fairly inexpensively, and that is required before you can get someone to start modifications.

I feel for those who run forums; they take criticism from every direction, and often get pushed into what seems like "no-win" situations.

I do feel that a good software upgrade would be well liked once people learned the changes, but I can say for sure that using a Xenforo forum is infinitely easier (in my opinion) than using this software, and I don't mean that in any way to be critical of this site, but rather just pointing out that software has changed very much for the better over the last few years.

Edit:

One example of a XenForo feature is that I can select and upload pehaps 30 photos at once (varies according to what you set up your site for), and place them on the page as either thumbnails, or full sized images, and I can intersperse text anywhere between the photos.  No albums are required unless you just want to create an album.  One has to be religious about downsizing photos to perhaps 100 k each, but this greatly streamlines the entire photo posting process, and I think woud encourage folks to post more photos in more threads.

 

 

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[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Posted by Mike Nash 2 on 11/11/2020 16:24:43:

The Sieg SX3.5 DZP having caught my eye. It seems to have the capacity, DRO on all 3 axis and powered X axis. Being not to familiar with the Sieg brand and Arceurope can any one advise on them. Cheers Mike

Check with ARC but I think the next batch in will be SX3.5ZP without the DRO. It was a basic DRO and ARC are working with Machine DRO who will be able to offer tailored kits to fit the Sieg machines which will be in the form of a fully functioning DRO with features like PCD, Absolute/incremental, halving etc.

Me I've got 3 Sieg mills and they do what I ask of them.

Edited By JasonB on 11/11/2020 19:16:22

[Thomas CooksleyParticipant @thomascooksley79020]

Hi Everyone, I don't have a mill but have ordered from ARC euro several times and have always been very happy with their service. Tom.

[Bryan Cedar 1Participant @bryancedar1]

I have had a 3.5DZP for one year and apart from total failure of the main PCB board which has now been replaced by a completely re designed board I am very happy with it. Excellent service from ARC euro.

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

I have a Seig x3 milling machine and am totally satisfied with it. I bought this (And other items.) from Arc euro trade and found them a very good company to deal with.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 11/11/2020 16:56:26

[Mike Nash 2Participant @mikenash2]

Hi all, I wonder if some of you knowledgeable Guy's & Gal's on here can advise me. I am looking for a milling machine for my home work shop. I have been looking at Warco and Chester offerings, but cannot seem to find the right combination of machine. Then following the advert on this forum I went to Arceurope's site and saw the Siege millers they have for sale. The Sieg SX3.5 DZP having caught my eye. It seems to have the capacity, DRO on all 3 axis and powered X axis. Being not to familiar with the Sieg brand and Arceurope can any one advise on them. Cheers Mike

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

Lee,

My experience, when I got a Warco VMC mill ( looks to have smaller work area than yours) was to buy a versatile SG vice from ARC. I went for the largest one and nearly gave myself a hernia lifting it out of the packaging and onto the table. It was obviously too big and a swift phone call to ARC allowed me to take it back and swap it for the smaller, 100mm, one. I particularly like the multiple positions that can be achieved with the movable jaws. With a bit of thought and jiggery-pokery, they can be used to hold material that doesn't fit between the jaws in their normal positions. The limiting factor, in my case, is not the vice but the machine's travel in the Y-axis. If it's a major problem, I resort to removing the vice and clamping to the table. I try to avoid that if I can to save the trouble of re-tramming the vice every time. I showed an example of extending the jaws in a similar thread not long ago:

Using the parallels in this way, with longer retaining screws increases the maximum distance available to clamp by at least 30mm to something in the region of 250mm+ as well as increasing the gripping area of the "jaws".

John

( My 2d )

Original vice dimensions from ArcEurotrade's site.

[Lee Jones 6Participant @leejones6]

When purchasing my Warco Super Major Milling Machine I bought the K4 100mm vice.

Vertex Precision Milling Vice (K4)

It's a bit limiting, so I'm looking for an upgrade.

Just looking at the ARC Versatile Milling Vices and I'm not entirely sure which one would suit my machine.

ARC Versatile Milling Vices

The smallest one wouldn't be much of an upgrade, so I'll leave that be.

My assumption is that the large 150mm (6" would be too big for my mill – is that correct?

Would the middle 125mm (5" be more suitable?

Or perhaps I'm barking up the wrong tree and another type would be a better option?

As usual, any help would be gratefully received.

 

Edited By Lee Jones 6 on 10/11/2020 08:25:56

[SamsarandaParticipant @samsaranda]

I have had similar problem when drilling stainless, it work hardens and the drill just skids, I tried cobalt drills without any success, I did have success with diamond core drills, slow but eventually successful. Arc Eurotrade sell a limited range of sizes, depends what size you can manage with, maybe adjust size of your fitting to suitable core drill size.

Dave W

[Andy CarlsonParticipant @andycarlson18141]

Thank you for all of the advice.

Crude in comparison to Jason's work and took 3 attempts to get one that didn't mess up but I'm happy.

1mm 2 flute stub cutter from Arc Euro, 5K RPM feed rate 40. 0.25mm DOC on lettering, 0.5mm DOC to cut out.

[VicParticipant @vic]

One of these?

**LINK**

[Chris VParticipant @chrisv]

Thank you Jason,

Right I think I should stock up on a few different cutters. I just had another go and boy at 325rpm the mill and I are much happier!

Another advantage of this simple set up I found is when on the last cut the cutter comes loose in the 2MT collet it didn't ruin the work! Thing is I'm so used to woodwork cutting speeds I'm having to re learn, I shall also periodically check for collet tightness in future!.

I did look at Arceuro for bevel endmills that might be suitable for my little mill but so far haven't found any?

Thank you Ian P.

Yes I agree with all that, in the first photo of this thread I showed 4 chuck keys, the top one is new and the worst to look at, thin, not waisted and look at the mess they made of the end! This was the second key I bought for a chuck I have, neither of them fitted either! Hence my determination to at least try and make a better job, inspired by the bottom key shown of the 4.

My keys will be waisted, what I should have done was turn the end down on the lathe to reduce the amount of milling, that will be more efficient. I will try that on the second one.

Cheers

Chris.

[Stuart BridgerParticipant @stuartbridger82290]

No direct experience of this lathe, but my recommendation would be to check high powered active components first. I.e. diodes and transistors. Not sure if replacement components are easily available though. Not cheap but the complete PCB is available from Arc Euro. Probably the simplest option.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

A spanner to twist the sleeve is all you should need, to remove it.  This is assuming (hoping) the sleeve was not inserted, while cold, into a warmed machine🙂 ).

Check out what Arc say about it.

**LINK**

I learned something new just a couple of days ago.🙂

Edited By not done it yet on 01/11/2020 13:09:29

[Ian ParkinParticipant @ianparkin39383]

This what you need

good old arc

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Adaptors-Sleeves/Morse-Taper-Open-Sleeve-with-Release-Nut?gclid=Cj0KCQjwufn8BRCwARIsAKzP6950t-c6oCXlHc6J2IWLV8SGUkvatE6Rho4Ul2F9ddVB5rg_1xN1PQQaAu7ZEALw_wcB

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

First off the Grizzly manuals for their version of the 6×26 milling machine is here. The Grizzly versions are often far better than the basic ones supplied by some UK suppliers Grizzly G0801 manual

Secondly the spindle probably has an open ended morse taper sleeve stuck in it. It may be hard to get out without destroying it but they are relatively cheap so do not worry too much about abusing it as long as you do not harm the machine's morse taper in the process Arceurotrade example

I doubt a rod from above will get to the top lip of the sleeve and an extractor slot approach may be better (if there is such a slot on your version of this machine). I think there have been past threads on this subject so it may be worth searching past threads.

Martin C

Past thread on this subject Thread 35680

Edited By Martin Connelly on 01/11/2020 11:19:20

[Robert Atkinson 2Participant @robertatkinson2]

According to the ARC website the SX2P has a R8 spindle not MT3 and the same 8mm T slot (M6 thread) as the CMD10 . A R8 to MT2 adaptor would allow use of existing tooling initally.

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Milling-Machines/SIEG-SX2-PLUS-Mini-Mill/SIEG-SX2P-HiTorque-Mil

lIf not already in the budget selling the CMD10 and tooling would go a long way to new tooling and allow correction of any "I wish I'd…." choices

Robert G8RPI

Edited By Robert Atkinson 2 on 01/11/2020 10:54:25

[Andy CarlsonParticipant @andycarlson18141]

Posted by JasonB on 31/10/2020 19:58:56:

These are 8mm high numbers with a 6mm shank version of the same type of cutter, I did some 6mm lettering on that clear acrylic that had the V on it no problem.

You can get 1/8 shank Vee cutters with various width ends which would allow you to get slightly further down into the second colour while keeping the font thin, I recently got some of these but not tried them yet.

Ah – a tool organiser. Nice. My ER16s live in their little blue boxes that they came in from Arc Euro… all lined up in a little fancy box that had some chocolate ginger in. Sadly the 1/4 in collet is an odd one out that came in a round see through box. I see you have a similar issue there.

I was thinking from your 'V' picture earlier that the mill drill was varying its depth to do thin bits like the serifs. Or am I reading too much into it? Anyway I don't think I have clever enough software to do that at the moment.

I think you have correctly deduced that I need thinner cutters (1/8 in max) for the Proxxon. Those German ones look like a 'D' bit… which perhaps suggests a low cost option that would avoid any risk of breaking a milling cutter.

[Nick Clarke 3Participant @nickclarke3]

While I could never suggest a move to a larger, more rigid and more powerful milling machine would not enhance anyone's workshop I don't think you will get it within your budget buying new. ArcEuro have discontinued the Sieg SX1L mill which is basically the same as your present machine but with a longer table and travel. You could add these to your present machine I suspect for less than £100. The replacement in the ArcEuro range has a more powerful motor and stronger drive but is not much larger. Going any bigger takes you out of your price bracket, particularly when the larger tooling necessary is taken into account.

I think you have two realistic options – Firstly look at the secondhand market, but here I cannot comment as I bought the Sieg SX1L new as it was the only machine that I could fit in at home and anyway I had access to a larger machine at the club (then!)

Or consider what you need to use a mill for after buying the Victoria castings. I am always amazed at the jobs my micro mill has managed to produce, although admittedly it already has the larger table fitted.

If I had the space I would have jumped at the chance of a larger machine, but you are looking at an extra £50 just for the machine and then more for collets etc and then the workholding T-nuts, bolts, holddowns etc is more again.

Quite a lot more expense, for more power and probably more rigidity but not that much more capacity.

[Martin KyteParticipant @martinkyte99762]

I use a small inside mike from Arc Euro, not to expensive, for small bores. Bear in mind these will only measure the start of the bore.

**LINK**

As others have said down hole measurements do take practice and feel so take every opportunity to take measurements whenever you have the opportunity and especially when you are in a situation where the bore size is known.

Where ever possible bore nominal size and turn the cylindrical part to fit the bore especially on smaller bores. Reaming will give you consistancy and smaller reamers are less expensive, including machine reamers. Always make a bore gauge (go/nogo gauge) before starting your bore. When all else fails or you need to be spot on, lap to fit.

regards Martin

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi James,

A go/nogo gauge is a simple and inexpensive solution. If you want a step up from telescoping gauges, Inside Micrometers like these are not as expensive as 3-point Internal Micrometer sets. I have a cheap Chinese Inside Micrometer and it has worked well so far.

Thor

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

Hi William, not quite sure what you mean by "clog type" tool post unless its the triangular single clamp that was supplied originally ?

However you mention a quick change system, personally I would go for the Dickson type, I have been using these since they first appeared in the 1960's I have them on all my lathes in appropriate sizes. Now you can only purchase clones but if you buy from a well known reputable supplier, Myford, RDG, Chronos etc and continue to buy any additional holders from the same source you should be OK.

There are other designs available and one that seems to have a good reputation are those sold by Arceuro -see the ad herein.

On all of these you will need to use a smaller took bit 3/8" or 10mm square HSS is a good start.

John

[J BENNETT 1Participant @jbennett1]

Is there a reason you are limited to these two machines. Don't forget the Chester machine attracts a £54 delivery charge, unless you are collecting. Similar charges will apply to other suppliers.

There is a wide choice of machines in this size/price range available from the likes of arceurotrade, Warco, Amadeal and others. Suggest you have a good look at the alternatives.

Apart from tooling cost you also have to consider what space you have and what you are going to mount it on. A solid stable base is essential if you want good consistent accuracy.

Just a few thoughts, I am sure others will be along soon with further suggestions.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

If it is an elderly an ex industry machine, it may well have an International Taper. (30, 40 or 50 depending on size )

They may, now, be designated as BT.

ISO Tapers look similar, but will be to Metric dimensions, rather than Imperial

Take a look at what Arc Euro offer, they do both BT and ISO adaptors, which may give you a clue.

The INT and ISO tapers locate on the taper, but drive on two dogs on the machine quill that engage in slots in a flange on whatever tool / arbor is being fitted.

Other tapers, such as Morse will be less steep, since they are intended to drive on the taper.

Morse tapers are only slightly less than 3 degrees, but vary slightly according to the size (So a 1MT will not be the same angle as a 2MT nor a 3MT, and so on )

There are other tapers, but probably unlikely to be the one in your machine.

HTH

Howard