Search Results for 'arc euro'

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Posted by JasonB on 26/08/2020 13:58:34:

Posted by XD 351 on 26/08/2020 10:28:00:

Another thing i was wondering is what if the creator of a video is a company that doesn’t advertise on this site ? Let me think now – I will pick one, lets say a U.S based machine tool company who made some excellent youtube videos ( i deleted the name so the moderators don’t have to – jk !) there is always going to be some advertising of their products in their videos which essentially is the same as a review . What about channels that are sponsored ? What if this video is bought to you by such and such which is a direct competitor to one of the advertisers here ? Will they kick up a stink ?

As I said on page two:

No problem with linking to UK, European or worldwide suppliers that are bona fide companies who comply with their tax, safety, etc laws does not restrict you to only mentioning our advertisers so you could for example mention Warco, Greenwood, ARC or Cutwell APT, Zoro, or RC Machine, Barrie's BT30 supplier & GHW or PM Research, Ej Winter and so on.

This would cover links to the suppliers directly or video posted by them or with links to them.

Link or mention? CoC refers only to links. Now you are talking about being ok to "mention Warco, Greenwood, ARC" etc.

Which is it that is banned, linking to or mentioning unapproved suppliers?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Posted by XD 351 on 26/08/2020 10:28:00:

Another thing i was wondering is what if the creator of a video is a company that doesn’t advertise on this site ? Let me think now – I will pick one, lets say a U.S based machine tool company who made some excellent youtube videos ( i deleted the name so the moderators don’t have to – jk !) there is always going to be some advertising of their products in their videos which essentially is the same as a review . What about channels that are sponsored ? What if this video is bought to you by such and such which is a direct competitor to one of the advertisers here ? Will they kick up a stink ?

As I said on page two:

No problem with linking to UK, European or worldwide suppliers that are bona fide companies who comply with their tax, safety, etc laws does not restrict you to only mentioning our advertisers so you could for example mention Warco, Greenwood, ARC or Cutwell APT, Zoro, or RC Machine, Barrie's BT30 supplier & GHW or PM Research, Ej Winter and so on.

This would cover links to the suppliers directly or video posted by them or with links to them.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Posted by Bill Pudney on 25/08/2020 01:02:51:

Getting a full set of mini lathe steel change gears from someone like Arc Euro would save a lot of work. Using them on a Myford might cause the Earth to spin off it's axis and plunge into the Sun though.

cheers

Bill

😄😄 I might do it just for that alone!

The other advantage would be you keep the full set of Myford gears intact for doing oddball pitches. And you could probably buy the rogue 18 tooth gear in Mod 1 easily enough.

[Bill PudneyParticipant @billpudney37759]

Getting a full set of mini lathe steel change gears from someone like Arc Euro would save a lot of work. Using them on a Myford might cause the Earth to spin off it's axis and plunge into the Sun though.

cheers

Bill

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

You look to have made a nice job of cleaning and painting it.

At this age, it may well show some signs of wear.

Study the Myford pages on the Lathes UK website. there is a lot of info there.

If the centre height is 3 1/8" it is either a ML1 or ML2

ML3 and ML4 were 3 1/2"

I think that the "odd" numbered models were 15" centres, and "even" 24"

Headstock bearing were direct in the cast iron, but superior models had bronze bushes, I am told.

Threads used will be BSW and BSF, possibly with BA for gib strips (But this latter is a guess, never having delved that deeply into one )

Headstock and Tailstock bore is 1 MT

Headstocks started out with 7/8 BSW (7/8 x 9 tpi ) threads but later changed to 7/8 x 12 tpi. The very late ones, I believe had 1 1/8 x 12 tpi threads, but lacked the 1 1/4" register which came in with the ML7 in 1947.

The Cross and Top Slide dials have 80 divisions, but the leadscrews are 12 tpi, so each division is not exactly a thou. The Leadscrew is 8 tpi.

Tumbler Revers was not standard, but an option available at extra cost

Change wheels are the same as the later ML7s , 20 DP, 14.5 degrees pressure angle, but are driven, and compounded by 3.32 pins in drillings which go part way through the gear / driving collar.

7 Series wheels will fit, but need to be drilled for the pins, instead of using the keyway for the later machine.

There are quite a few owners and users of these early ML types on the Forum. Being a small machine, they have their limitations, but can turn out good work in the right hands.

If you need a 4 jaw independant chuck for it they are available, but you will need to make your own backplate for it.

Alternatively, you could make up an adaptor with an internal thread to match the lathe, but with a 1 1/8 x 12 tpi thread and a 1 1/4" register. Don't forget to put spanner flats on it, to ease removal!

This would allow you use backplates for 7 Series machines, or even a complete chuck.

A 4 jaw is invaluable for holding square, rectangular or irregular shaped material, which a 3 jaw cannot. But you will need a DTI (Prefersably two, a plunger, and a finger type ) to centre work in the 4 jaw.

The clocks will enable you to ensure that the lathe is set up cotrrectly, so that it does not turn tapers (It will most certainly if the tailstock is offset. Sometimes this is used as a means of turning a taper on a workpiece )

Spending some more of your money, if you do not have one, a drill chuck for the Tailstock will be useful. You will need a 1 MT arbor with a taper to suit the drill chuck.

Arc Euro , and no doubt other suppliers, sell arbors with tapers to suit JT0, JT1, and JT2 tapers. A JT0 will carry a chuck with a 4 mm capacity, a JT1 up to 6 mm and a JT2 will take a Drill chuck with a 10 mm capacity.

Dead centre are also available, or you could make your own from old 1 MT drills, by sawing off the flutes before offsetting the Topslide and turning the 60 degree taper.

HTH

Howard.

Edited By Howard Lewis on 24/08/2020 18:33:04

[Nick Clarke 3Participant @nickclarke3]

I am sorry Bob, but I consider your advice, while probably technically accurate is total inappropriate to be given to a beginner thinking of setting up their first lathe in a garage.

Suggesting an industrial class machine like your Harrison would take up most of the space in a small workshop and would lessen the area available for a model and a bench on which to make parts for it. I also think for a model boat builder it would not be an appropriate size machine.

Cost wise, while second hand Harrisons or Colchesters are probably better value for money than a Myford, if not actually cheaper the essential accessories(many of which are sold separately by a dealer) would be far more expensive than their Myford or Chinese equivalents. And as for the cost of spare parts!!!!!

Screw on chucks can tighten up when you don’t want them to and unscrew without warning if you ever run the lathe in reverse. Bolt on chucks are a pain to fit and remove, but they do avoid both of these problems without the expense or room taken up by more industrial alternatives and unlike NotDoneItYet, with whose other remarks regarding taper or CamLoc chucks I agree, I have not fallen out with them yet.

A beginner would not necessarily be able to judge the condition of a lathe until it would not perform as they wanted and as for your advice suggesting that someone new to machines scrape a saddle to ensure it runs accurately – I think it just could not happen I’m afraid.

I am sorry, but my advice for an absolute beginner would need to be to buy a new machine from any of the major retailers – Amadeal, ArcEuro, Axminster, Chester, Warco etc and have the benefit of a guarantee, advice and spares at the end of a phone line.

If this first lathe does not do what the OP wants after some time they can upgrade, should it prove necessary, as you did yourself, when they have the measure of what they want to do based upon direct experience.

[Sam Longley 1Participant @samlongley1]

Posted by Raymond Anderson on 20/08/2020 18:02:47:

s am longley, IF the job only demands easy brickwork , what IF the job demands something other than the easy stretcher bond ? or even Granite ? 350 Facers per day thats only 5 barrows worth. Now try taking that up 7 storeys and see how PLUMB you can get it. Maybe you should try a corbelled arch or 2 No on second thoughts… just stick to stretcher bond.

Funny you should mention arches. My first house, that I built myself,had an arch way 2.7 metres wide & 5 metres long, all in brickwork. It was a design necessitated by the fact that the house was on the high street & vehicles had to pass through

I won the European Architectural Heritage Year Award for that House, when I was in my early 20's

My next award was for a community centre built on to the end of a very old village church many years later.

I never served an apprenticeship, but employed quite a few. I never had them sweeping floors & wasting time making tea if I could help it. I employed others for that task. My attitude was that they were there to learn the trade, not how to make tea. They did have to understand the need for tidiness in the workplace though.

 

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 20/08/2020 18:19:57

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

You are not alone. There lots of ML4 owners around.

If you are looking for a 8 tpi worm, you merely need a 1:1 ratio between chuck and Leadscrew.

20T on Mandrel, 20T on Leadscrew and what ever Idler(s ) are needed to complete the train, so that the Leadscrew rotates in the correct direction.  You should have 20T gears among your changewheels.

Does the ratio have to be 20:1? If the ratio is not vital, you can buy the gear and worm that you need

You can buy a 25T metal gear for a mini lathe from Arc Euro. A single start worm will give a ratio equal to the number of teeth on the gear. It will be 27 mm OD.

The problem is going to be cutting the worm.

The gear will be 1 Mod, so the worm will need a pitch of Pi mm to match,

All is not lost! RS can supply a 1 Mod worm, to match the gear. (I bought one for a very slowly ongoing project )

HTH

Howard

Edited By Howard Lewis on 18/08/2020 12:17:56

[Nick Clarke 3Participant @nickclarke3]

Posted by Mark P. on 15/08/2020 15:15:08:

Hi Dave, you could probably get a new board from Arc Euro trade.

Regards Mark P.

Or even Machine Mart who were likely the original seller.

[Mark P.Participant @markp]

Hi Dave, you could probably get a new board from Arc Euro trade.

Regards Mark P.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Hi Simon

We're all in a similar position in one form or another. There are 'one shot' lube systems on the market for most machines, Arc Euro sell one specifically for Myfords but could be used for other machines. I have a WM16 mill & I lubricate it it the awkward way; from underneath the table using a squirt oil can with a flexible spout & SAE 10-40 transmission oil, whilst moving the table along it's travel axis, works fine for me to date, it does get messy but I wipe up any excess afterwards. Horses for courses I s'pose

George.

[Chris TickTockParticipant @christicktock]

Posted by Mark Gould 1 on 13/08/2020 20:27:13:

Posted by Bandersnatch on 13/08/2020 17:26:37:

For"standard" angles I usually find a set of these makes it easy:

Good recommendation, I have the same set, very handy. Arc sell that set too, but for less

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Measurement/Parallels-Angle-Blocks-Test-Bars/Precision-Angle-Block-Set-17pcs

Mark

On my list, many thanks

Chris

[Mark Gould 1Participant @markgould1]

Posted by Bandersnatch on 13/08/2020 17:26:37:

For"standard" angles I usually find a set of these makes it easy:

Good recommendation, I have the same set, very handy. Arc sell that set too, but for less

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Measurement/Parallels-Angle-Blocks-Test-Bars/Precision-Angle-Block-Set-17pcs

Mark

[Dave HalfordParticipant @davehalford22513]

Posted by not done it yet on 13/08/2020 11:09:50:

If a motor isn't rated on its output power, then what is it rated on?

For the uninitiated, some drives are advertised with the gross input power quoted. Bandsaws are a typical example, but other items can be similarly ‘over-hyped’ (an example is Arceuro always provide output power for their machines but some competitors quote the higher figure). No real difference than some compressors being ‘rated’ as so many units of volume ‘displacement’, not free air delivery – which is the real figure required by the user.

The problem that may arise here is where the driving and driven values do not overlap, or barely so

Very true, using the input power avoids exposing the excessive losses some budget motors have. Books are technical based, quoting dodgy power claims is a sales pitch or 'puff' designed to catch the unwary. It's similar to quoting Total System Power or PMPO power in the audio world.

One real reason to overrate a drive is when someone already has an old (as in 1980's) 3ph motor he wants to use. The effcy is lower and it will pull more current than the modern version.

Buying the drive and motor from the same source should prevent any miss matches happening.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

If a motor isn't rated on its output power, then what is it rated on?

For the uninitiated, some drives are advertised with the gross input power quoted. Bandsaws are a typical example, but other items can be similarly ‘over-hyped’ (an example is Arceuro always provide output power for their machines but some competitors quote the higher figure). No real difference than some compressors being ‘rated’ as so many units of volume ‘displacement’, not free air delivery – which is the real figure required by the user.

The problem that may arise here is where the driving and driven values do not overlap, or barely so

One example that I will always remember is the following ‘spherical items’ up. An industrial process stage had a 1000tph specification with an absolute minimum of 600tph. The clever consultants advised a transport system of… …600tph maximum! The system never ever worked properly.🙂

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Welcome!

Lots of mini lathe users on her who can provide help.

Have you checked the motor brushes?

The control boards do not like the machine being started or stopped with the speed set to anything other than Zero. The Operator manual specifically warns of this.

Replacement boards are available, (I believe that the USA made boards are better than the original Chinese ones; but have no experience. ) Arc EuroTrade are one possible source.

There are knowledgeable folk on this Forum who can repair boards, some times using improved components.

It has only a small motor, so do not expect to take deep cuts at high feed rates. The manual considers 0.010" 0.25 mm ) a roughing cut, although lots of folk exceed this, and survive

HTH

Howard.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Which one they are both magnetic? Though they both came from ARC

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

My thoughts

1. Aluminium will soon dent and ding so not an ideal surface to be indexing against especially once you have been rubbing it about on stray abrasive from your sander.

2. Aluminium may gall resulting in the adaptor sticking and the drawbar roughing up the end unless additional washers are used.

For these two reasons I would go with steel.

3. Why add the added possible runout of an adaptor when you could machine a socket to take the WW collets directly, these need both taper and parallel surfaces. Much smaller hole required so more Sherline friendly

4. As the WW collets have an external thread how will a bolt work to tighten them, you need a drawbar with a female thread or ideally a draw tube so you can hold long lengths of pivot wire etc which is better than holding stub ends.

This thread may be useful, just make them longer and use a drawtube rather than nut

If you still want to go down the aluminium/ MT1 route then just bore it out parallel and Loctite in one of these.

 

Edited By JasonB on 08/08/2020 19:41:06

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Don't know the collet that you are using, but if it is an open ended one:

Does the holder have be Aluminium/?

If not, you could buy a parallel socket with an internal 1 MT. You would need to modify it (Drill/Tap the blank end? ) and insert a plug, before fitting the collet, so that a screw could be used to push out the collet, when you wish to release / extract it.

As an example, Arc Euro sell such sleeves for a little over £10 + postage. Choose 3/4 or 1 inch OD.

Admittedly, this would limit the length of material that could be passed back through the collet, but this same problem exists with Morse Taper ER collet holder, and Morse Taper and R8 collets used with a drawbar..

Just a thought

Howard

[Peter Cook 6Participant @petercook6]

Hello, Now retired I spent 35 years managing in the IT industry and then 15 years as an academic (getting a PhD and teaching management).

I am interested in clocks, and am teaching myself to service and repair the ones I have as well as "fiddling" (my wife's term) with other things. I am (slowly) learning the skills needed to be a machinist.

I have had a small Taig lathe (ER16 collet head) and an old 6mm watchmakers lathe for several years. The Taig has a vertical slide, and I have been able to mill bits and pieces on it. However I have run into the limitations of my (very) old drill press (hand drill on a stand) and was finding setting up the Taig to mill a pain. So I have just invested in a SX1LP mill from Arc Eurotrade with an MT2 ER16 Adapter.

I now seem to be spending most of my time now making tooling, clamps and other bits and pieces for the mill and lathe rather than clocking! Next project is a Harold Hall grinding rest so that I can sharpen the broken drills and blunted tools properly.

[Phil WhitleyParticipant @philwhitley94135]

Posted by jann west on 06/08/2020 13:33:59:

It's sad! Generally speaking … Apparently (injury/negligence/etc.) insurance for metalwork training schools is very expensive, and the consumables are also expensive (whoops – someone forgot to turn off the argon on a welder and the college's entire tank leaked out overnight … happened at CNWL the year I was there … oops!) … far easier and more profitable to teach courses in "digital marketing" etc.

here is the real reason, it is not that there is no demand for engineering courses, it is that they are comparitively very unprofitable to deliver, when compared to media studies and "digital marketing". The colleges do not care that there is no jobs at the end of them, they have already made their profit, and they do not exist to train ppl, they exist to make profit!

Britain was made great , not directly by engineering, but by innovation, and THEN building the products and selling them to the world, and today, although China, Asia and Japan are now the powerhouses, they lack the one skill that made Britain great, they are not innovators, they do not respect patents, and they will copy and improve anything they can get their hands on. We need to go back to innovation, but in order to do that we need a root and branch overhaul of the patent system, which for too long has allowed companies to ammass "intellectial property" by the mere act of saying "wouldn't it be good and profitable if we could do this", then patenting it, and waiting for some poor mug to do the hard work, and then surfacing (they are known as submarine patents), and using their financial clout and their in house patent attorneys to steal the idea, or bankrupt the inventor with a long legal battle, and steal the idea anyway. Reform could be as simple as introducing a rule that there is no patent without a working prototype, and that patent gives you 5 years to bring the idea to market, after which time the patent expires, and others can have a go.

We are in a situation today where there is no innovation, because there is no research into any field that already has patents, even if the owners of the patents are doing absolutely nothing with them, and inventors have long ago given up on the patent system, as it lacks any protection for them unless they are very wealthy. Mr Dyson spends millions every year just defending his patents.

So how to get the rest of the world to recognise and respect patents? simple, deny access to your marketplace to ALL that countries products untill they do!

The problem with the service industry, is that it employs very few people, returns large profits to even fewer,and is at the mercy of the ups and downs of the worlds financial state, and to imagine that the younger generation are going to pay for our pensions on their minimum waged employment is farcial, and also not the way pension funds work! We are going vaguely in the right direction by getting out of Europe, and now the Europeans companies have taken over our major (albiet lame duck) industries we have a clean slate to start rebuilding from the ground up. We need to lobby government to make these changes to make sure that good ideas get the protection they deserve, and therefore do not have to leave the UK in order for the innovators to profit from them. Export or die still applies!

Phil

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Does not look like it gives a 45deg chamfer to me unless you were to mount the holder at an angle?

Something more like this that holds square inserts at 45deg would give what you say you wanted

[Andrew JenkinsParticipant @andrewjenkins71937]

Hi Steve

Posted by Steve Withnell on 02/08/2020 11:50:41:

Andy, this is how I added a DRO to the Minor. The DRO is simple type from Arceurotrade. Then I just took a piece of aluminium plate and bored a hole in it to be a slide fit over the spindle assembly. There is a caphead screw out of sight which acts as a locking screw to stop the plate swivelling.

The plate is then useful for hanging clocks off…but you lose the depth stop which I miss very rarely.

I drilled and tapped a hole for a mounting plate in the mill casting to hang the DRO off.

I have a graph somewhere of the the DRO readout plotted against the manual readout off the fine feed, apart from a stiction/backlash problem the graph wanders about all over the place!

That looks really neat I may copy that!

Regards

Andy

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Good that you have it fixed.

So now you have a more versatile lathe.

Good on yer, and Arc Euro!

This may help others with a similar problem.

Howard

[James Hall 3Participant @jameshall3]

PROBLEM SOLVED.

First thing this morning a phone call from Ian at ArcEuro saying that he'd seen my post here and would help sort out the problem.

An exchange of photosand some discussion produced a simple solution: as suggested by Hopper above, elongating the fixing holes in the guard with a file provided enough clearance to do the job.

Great thanks to Ian and ArcEuro – it's a real and unusual treat in this day and age to receive such first-class, immediate, helpful and friendly customer service.

And thanks to all here who responded helpfully to my appeal for help.