Search Results for 'arc euro'

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

If you buy their remote display from this list the set includes a power supply for the display. I don’t think my separate readers are battery powered at the moment. I do occasionally find anomalies with the operation, but they are good enough for most things I do.

**LINK**

Best to ask ARC about the specifics, I would advise.

[Stuart Smith 5Participant @stuartsmith5]

Chris

I think it may be worth waiting to check with ARC before using a USB phone charger.

I have the ones from ARC with a separate display unit **LINK**

I have just made a circuit with an Arduino to use these with a tablet computer running the Touchdro app so I had to check the volts and pin outs on the micro usb connector. There are 4 wires – ground, 3 volts , clock and data.

The one you have may be different but if the same, you would need a 3volt supply.

Stuart

[Chris BarryParticipant @chrisbarry]

Hi,

Hope this is in the correct section and I’ve not found a thread about this before.

ive got a 6 inch scale from ARC on the Quill of my Bridgeport and it eats battery’s, my question is can I run this off a power supply, it’s got a micro USB port on the side and is powered by a internal button cell CR2032 3v.

I've emailed ARC but I’m impatient so I thought I’d ask the knowledge on here, below is a link to the ones I’m talking about.

**LINK**

TIA

Chris

[Les TParticipant @lest]

Hi Colin,

To some extent, it depends on what you envisage doing with your Ward indexer rotary table.If you

are going to be using it mounted horizontally for e.g. drilling holes on a pitch circle or machining arcs then I agree with Chris, go for the larger one. If you want to use it in a vertical sense for example to cut gears then you need to ensure you have enough operating room under the cutter.

One small consideration is the worm wheel ratio that determines resolution. The larger tables tend to have 90:1 ratio while smaller ones have less resolution e.g. 72:1 or 60:1. However, in practice, it won't make a lot of difference.

I have motorised my Myford badged HV6 rotary table and use it in the vertical position under the KX3 CNC mill. It works very well but the biggest problem is getting the table from the mill stand cupboard to the mill table! It is a very heavy unit which led me to put a stepper on 4" ArcEurotrade (no connection) rotary table as it is so much easier to manhandle. Another advantage is the body is ground on all faces of the body which makes tramming it in the vertical position much easier.

You have made an excellent choice building the Ward indexer (no connection), it is a superb design that works flawlessly.

LesT

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Allendale – mail order only

Arc Euro Tools – closed Opening again for mail order

Ausee (Australia) – Mail order or pickup with 1-day notice

Axminster – mail order only

Bearingboys Ltd – open

Chester – Mail order only

Chronos – open

CuP alloys – mail order only

EKP – open

GLR- open

GWR Fasteners -open

Live Steam Models -open

Macc models – open

M Machine Metals – open

Myford – open

Pro Machine Tools – mail order (visits by appointment only at normal times anyway)

RGD tools – open

Screwfix – open for pre-orders

Toolstation – open for pre-orders

Tracy tools – open

Warco – mail order onlw

Moderators, or someone with IT skills, is there an easier way to update the list than rewriting it as new info comes in?

Best way is to quote it, select all, then hit the blue rubber 'remove formatting' icon and edit the list as I have done.

I think many of the ones down as 'open' are actually mail order only so if anyone who knows can update, please do.

That way the right info is at the latest post.

Neil

[Richard Kirkman 1Participant @richardkirkman1]

Thanks Phil, very informative. There are quite a lot of loose wire in there. I'm not sure how l'll be able to cover them all

The lathe looks like it has space for feet on the machine through some threaded holes. Im not sure if anyone else has seen This Old Tonys video on lathe leveling, but he has a student mk1.5 and it has 6 feet to allow for leveling?

I made a mount for my indicator today, although I'm not sure it's on the right kind of stand, it's works for me

I used a weird insert I found on arc euro trade. It said it was for non ferrous metals so I thought I'd give it a try, it did a good job I think

I turned around 250 thou end for the indicator to sit on, then turned the rest to fit in the holder nicely

I

Drilled the end out to 3.3mm for a m4 thread. It was nice to finally get to use my taps. Although they were too small to use a spring center, it went in very well by eye

I had a play with my has parting off tool, ground it to how it was suggested, then I played around looking at the center height. It was a long way off, too high. I used the flat bar trick thing. I did try to grind it down a bit but it was taking too long. And since it was such a small part I decided to use my carbide parting off tool which was under center so I could shim it to the right height. It worked like a dream, 120rpm or so, hand fed, very slowly, with plenty of oil. Only aluminum so not too hard, but still good practice

When I parted off yesterday I used the other end of the tool which was lower, but I didn't check the height of that, so I don't know if it was or wasn't on center. Guessing it wasn't since it went so badly yesterday.

It fits! A nice little project

Now I'll be able to use my 4 jaw when it dries. I put another coat of paint on it today. The first had only just dried as I put it on so thickly, and it pooled at the bottom. So just a thin coat today!

[Rod RenshawParticipant @rodrenshaw28584]

Hmm… some for the idea of a list ( those posting information) and some against, mostly because of the changing situation.I wonder if the one-man bands, locked up in their shops, might be safer and less likely to close than the larger firms with staff to consider?

So lets try, if it's not useful we will only have lost a little time, and if it works the MEs can save time and phone calls etc and the suppliers might get more orders. The hobby depends on the small suppliers, if they are trying to stay open it would surely be useful know this.

The list can only give a guide, and a phone call to confirm and order might be safer than ordering from a website which might just swallow your money for the duration if the firm is closed.

So far we have:-

Arc Euro Tools – closed Opening again for mail order

Bearingboys Ltd – open

Chronos – open

CuP alloys -open

EKP – open

GLR- open

GWR Fasteners -open

Live Steam Models -open

Macc models – open

M Machine Metals – open

Myford – open

RGD tools – open

Screwfix – open for pre-orders

Toolstation – open for pre-orders

Tracy tools – open

Moderators, or someone with IT skills, is there an easier way to update the list than rewriting it as new info comes in?

rod

 

 

 

 

Edited By Rod Renshaw on 08/04/2020 10:30:53

Edited By JasonB on 09/04/2020 15:31:21

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

I think most companies are still up but mail order only. Notable exception is Arc Euro Trade.

Neil

[Rod RenshawParticipant @rodrenshaw28584]

Hi all

At this difficult time many of our usual suppliers are not open for business for good reasons. But some are still open, and there are a lot of modellers and potential modellers who suddenly have more time on their hands.This situation could go on for months.

Might there be value in having a thread which contained an alphabetical list of suppliers with an "open or closed" note to give a handy reference for those needing materials or tools? Either forum users or the suppliers themselves could add information. It might save a lot of phone calls to suppliers who are open, and who could do without a lot of "Are you open?" calls.

It will probably need a moderator to give this idea shape, but as a starting point I am aware of :-

Arc Euro Tools – closed Opening again for mail order

Macc Models – open for mail order

There are dozens of other suppliers but I, for one, have no idea who is open and who is not.

Rod

 

Edited By JasonB on 09/04/2020 15:30:16

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Paul Smith 37 on 05/04/2020 22:31:35:

Im looking into the Boxford box lathes, they maybe very efficient in what they do, which is of course the primary goal, but lack the charisma of a myford super 7 style lathe. Or Is it me just being a tart?

Since you ask, yes, that's how tarts think!

What do you want a lathe for? If it's for cutting metal, almost any machine will do. For rough work, badly worn classic machines and rough Chinese can both perform. In skilled hands it's remarkable what can be done.

In 1947, Myford released a hobby lathe that made all the others look dated or inadequate. It included many modern features – like guarded gears – and was well made. It struck an excellent balance between quality, size, functionality and price. Price was vital, because, although an expensive stretch for most, Myford lathes were just affordable.

Most other good lathes were aimed at the professional market. The cheapest Boxford was about half as expensive again as Myford's dearest machine. Other makes were seriously big money. Mostly bigger and heavier than the Super 7 with complicated 3-phase power requirements. They were bought by schools, colleges, universities, garages, workshops, and factories for whom Myford lathes were too small and on the delicate side.

Time marches on!

From 1980-ish onwards CNC made most manual machines obsolete. Many were and are sold in excellent condition, often much cheaper than a Myford. Myford have a deservedly good reputation but part of it is suspect. Model Engineers had spent 40 years telling themselves that Myford made the best lathe in the world, which was only true while the alternatives were unaffordable.

As VFD's have solved the 3-phase problem and second-hand professional lathes are being dumped by industry and education, its realistic for hobbyists to go up-market from Myford.

At the same time, Far Eastern makers started producing lathes of more modern design. Easier and cheaper to manufacture than a Super 7, and – for the hobby market, made down to a price. They're a bit rough, but despite numerous minor warts, my WM280 is 'better' than a Super 7 because it's bigger, and cheaper, and does all that I want of it. (26mm spindle bore) True it has no charisma, but I bought it to cut metal, and don't mind fettling it myself! Not clear exactly were the Chinese designs came from; the general approach reflects European and USA thinking developed during the 1950s, which recognises the foolishness of paying for unnecessary quality.

When Chinese lathes are discussed on the forum, we mean the hobby machines. As far as I know, no-one on the forum has ever bought an expensive Chinese lathe. If you have £10,000 plus to spend they do some nice machines…

30 years ago, telling beginners to buy Myford was good advice. Dubious today because the machines are 30 years older and there are far more alternatives.

In the end, it's what you want. I don't care my lathe is warty, others are thoroughly irritated by minor issues. I wanted to buy a lathe to fit the space available, have it delivered, and be able to return it if it was a dud. At the time I wasn't confident I could check out a second-hand lathe, and I couldn't travel far to look at candidates. But that's just me, you might enjoy the hunt, and value pride of ownership.

Do you like a sparkly clean tidy workshop? Mine's a disgrace. Your goals, interests and psychology matter.

Dave

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

STEVEIGTR

If you are looking for extra chucks for your ML7 the chuck, or its backplate should have a thread 1.125 x 12 tpi Whit form.

When things return to normal, you should be able find a backplate to fit a ML7 quite easily (Arc Euro certainly sell them).

Hope that you did not lose / misplace any shims when you removed the mandrel to take it to the auto jumble.

Personally would not have done it that way, but hopefully, no harm done.

If it broke, don't fix. Disturbing things without good reason could cause more harm than good.

Howard

Edited By Howard Lewis on 06/04/2020 10:06:06

[Phil WhitleyParticipant @philwhitley94135]

the answer is probably!, I have a few R8 milling arbors, and found that Arc did an R8 to int 30 adapter which means I can use them on my Harrison H Mill. Infortunately they are closed at the moment, but their catalogue is still online, have a look, https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Adaptors-Sleeves

also check Gloster tooling and the other usual suspects! RDG etc!

[Nick Clarke 3Participant @nickclarke3]

Posted by Mike Poole on 02/04/2020 23:15:27:

A large pillar drill with a small bit will have problems with speed and feel, speed is not too much of a problem but feeling the bit is, a useful accessory is one like this from Arceurotrade **LINK** this will give you the feel that will help avoid breaking the drill bit.

Mike

ARC are closed but Chronos and Warco both sell a similar item

[DC31kParticipant @dc31k]

Posted by Martin Kyte on 02/04/2020 22:30:41:

Easy enough to make in the lathe short stub of steel, carefully drill a suitable sized hole down the middle ensuring the drill is started exactly central. turn the out side at the same setting. Hold the 2mm drill in the tailstock to ensure alignment and loctite the two together.

But this assumes that he has not only a lathe but a means to hold the 2mm drill to make the hole in the sleeve.

And the problem we are trying to solve is how to hold a 2mm drill in the first place…

ArcEuroTrade are currently shut so suggestions to buy from there are rather pointless.

Drill chucks with straight shanks are surprisingly difficult to find, and even more so in small sizes. Many chucks, many straight shank arbors but the two together are thin on the ground.

The pin chuck is a good idea, the most important part of which is that it has a straight, short shank. There are many things (wrongly) described both as pin chucks or pin vices, a lot of which have long, knurled shanks.

Given the OP says he is new to the game, a little appreciation of his situation and links saying 'buy this, it will solve your problem' would be more helpful.

[Mike PooleParticipant @mikepoole82104]

A large pillar drill with a small bit will have problems with speed and feel, speed is not too much of a problem but feeling the bit is, a useful accessory is one like this from Arceurotrade **LINK** this will give you the feel that will help avoid breaking the drill bit.

Mike

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

Good pieces of work, Anthony & Phil.

I like the idea of the bolt on the saddle-stop, for swarf clearance.

@@@

Me? Today?

Tired to place an order with ARC Euro only they have closed for the duration. Let's hope they – and so many other businesses including my local bakery – weather this storm.

After a late start resumed making my wagon boiler's lifting-cradle. It's a plywood fabrication that locates inside the firebox, with steel side angles drilled for Maillon Rapides (or equivalent small shackles) on four rope slings. A cord tied round the slings just below the top of the firebox keeps the boiler steady, and to my delight and surprise the load was in balance when suspended on the block-and-tackle.

The cradle also holds the boiler sufficiently stable to stand it on one of those "skateboards" on 4 castors – Aldis or Lidls, and I bought two, joking with the cashier about panic-buying trolleys.

The slings are lengths of ordinary 8mm dia. 3-strand hawser-paid polypropylene rope. (Polyprop is one of the stronger rope plastics, but has the lowest melting-point and has low UV resistance.)

I tried to splice the eye in the lower end as a splice is far more compact, better-looking and stronger than a knot, and better for the rope. Eventually I gave up in frustration, made a brew, and tied bowlines instead. The top end is clove-hitched (easily-adjustable) to a triangle folded and welded from 12mm stainless-steel rod. I had picked that up somewhere as something useful somehow.

(I learnt those two knots while in the Scouts – bowlines were also once a near-universal knot used in caving – and they are among the barely dozen knots I have ever had to use for all manner of things.)

Splicing is of the hermetic arts. The basic eye-splice in 3-strand rope starts with a move that very easily makes the rest all wrong. Intuitively, it weaves three strands through two gaps with no two ever sharing one gap or leaping over two adjoining strands. No wonder Escher stuck to drawing staircases and mill-streams.

Ironically my stock length of rope came with a professionally made, thimbled and seized, eye-splice at one end.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Journeyman,

I just looked at your review. It reminds me of bang whotsit items. Only buy if you can afford to throw it away. I’ve got one similar to that one – likely from bang whotsit. It simply does not get used. The magnetic base is not that magnetic and it is small. I still use my M&W or Eclipse all the time.

Good of you to be honest and not one of those reviewers on the kit supplier’s payroll (free gifts and percentage commission on purchases made through their referrals) who make loads of misleading(?) reviews that eulogise about kit that is not that good

To Henry – Buy cheap, buy twice. It is something that you need to use regularly, so a good quality item is a must, as far as I am concerned. Yes, positioning is always a problem with a small mill. A clock of any description is most usefully mounted to the spindle or spindle housing in my experience.

I bought attachment from Arc **LINK** and find it most useful on the mill.

I’ve only used it with a dti so far, but that is what most measurements are for – comparative, not absolute.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

I got this update from Arc today:

In the last few weeks, COVID-19 has turned the world upside down, leaving the future uncertain and frightening.

We have therefore arrived at the sad decision to close our web store as of Tuesday 31st of March by midday.

The health and safety of the ARC team is of highest importance to us, and to continue working at this time is not a risk we want to take.

We can't wait to welcome you back on the other side.

Until then, be safe and take care.

Team ARC Euro Trade.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Holding by the flats gives a reasonable rake but you can get square holders that allow angle tweaking and may be more convenient. These from Arc Euro Trade.

Dave

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by An Other on 27/03/2020 14:36:17:

Do people only read the last post in these threads or what? Several people have noted that disabling Adblocker has no effect – the problem is still there, yet people make definitive statements that the problem is due to Adblocker.

…

Well, it appears my post wasn't read too carefully! On my machine I recreated the problem by disabling AdBlockPlus. But I also said 'Being on Linux, I'm controlling these things with browser settings. Windows users may find adblocking is being done by their Anti-virus software; most AVM packages have 'web protection' features.'

To be clear, many different security packages include advert blocking features. There isn't a single simple answer that works for everyone. You have to check what's on your machine. It's perfectly possible to have two or more ad-blocking applications active at the same time, and it may be necessary to turn them all off before adverts appear.

Michael mentions Javascript blocking, another possibility. Good suggestion except in this particular case I don't think the M-DRO advert uses Javascript. (Might be wrong; I'm not sure how the ad changes.)

Where adverts come from is security relevant, and how they are dealt varies between installations.

1. The top banner and first ArcEuro ad are from 'servedbyadbutler.com', and use Javascript.

2. The M-DRO advert is from 'www.machine-dro.co.uk'

3. The adverts in the side-banner are hosted by this forum.

Category 3 adverts are the most trustworthy from a security point of view. Most ad-blockers automatically allow them because they're part of the website of interest.

Category 2 adverts are less trustworthy because they depend on a third party who might be tracking or dispensing irrelevant material or malware. In this example, M-DRO is clean. An ad-blocker is likely to take these out unless told not to; suspicion is enough.

Category 1 adverts are very likely to get walloped by an ad-blocker, anti-tracking or other security package because they definitely are tracking, can be abused, and contain Javascript. ( adbutler on Model Engineering Forum is certainly benign, but the same can't be said of other websites.)

Ad-blockers also use different blacklists of websites and web domains known to be dispensing undesirable material. None of the ads on the forum are blacklisted, unless it's been done locally by you. (Unlikely)

Hope that makes sense! If missing adverts are a concern, check all your security settings.

Dave

[Jordi TomasParticipant @jorditomas]

Thanks everyone for the answers, but I think that now I have more doubts than at the beginning. I just wanted to buy one of the two models I had exposed, and to know if the cheapest one would be good, or an imitation, (fake Noga). I have often bought from Arceurotrade, but since I live in Barcelona (Catalonia), ​​for a small product, I think the ports would be too high.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

arc euro do them ! for what they cost why buy unknown. Ketan will stand by his goods.

Just a satisfied customer, Noel  Sorry hit botton twice.

Edited By noel shelley on 26/03/2020 14:30:16

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

arc euro do them ! for what they cost why buy unknown. Ketan will stand by his goods.

Just a satisfied customer, Noel

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Wherever possible, I avoid tapping free hand.

AS already said, many tap breakages are not caused by torque, but by bending.

In the mill, I use spring loaded guides for the end of the Tap and the wrench, providing the torque by hand on a wrench sized to more or less match the Tap.

In the lathe, use a shop made sliding holder, using ER collets, i held in the Tailstock, For larger Taps, I get brave and use the "Jog" facility on the VFD. If any doubt, I either pull the chuck round by hand or use a Mandrel handle.

The other means, for smaller work, is a Tapping fixture, made from an old stand for an electric drill, and a cheap drilling Vice. The handle is a 6" length of 6 x 2mm injection pipe through the spindle, which carries a small Jacobs chuck to hold and drive the Tap.

The idea is that if anything jams, the Tap will slip in the holder, rather than break.

The neat Arc Euro version uses a handwheel to prevent excessive torque being applied.

Lubrication is either Bacon fact (Apologies to Vegetarians / Vegans&nbsp or Rocol RTD.

As long as the tap is backed out, to clear the swarf, breakages are minimal. The last was M10, because I didn't!

Afterwards, the Taps and Dies are cleaned with an old toothbrush, before being put back into their storage boxes.

HTH

Howard