Search Results for 'arc euro'

[DC31kParticipant @dc31k]

I wonder if you are limiting your options by deciding so soon on one of two particular models. With second-hand machines of this type, condition and accessories are probably more important than manufacturer and model.

If, for example, a fully-equipped CVA came along at the right price, would you turn it down? Monarch 10EE? Small DSG? Harrison M-series? And do not discount the Eastern European lathes; they were superbly built (and natively-metric).

I would be deciding on a centre height and bed length and going from there.

As for specifics of the two you mention, as Stuart said, the Student is L-taper and chucks and backplates are expensive. The D1-3 of the Chipmaster is also less popular (and hence more costly) than D1-4, which is common to Far East machines.

Out of the box, the Chipmaster has a better speed range (30-3000rpm, providing you retain the variator) than the Student, good for small stuff and modern cutting tools. Its spindle bore is a bit small and it is a bit short between centres. Requires two extra and non-standard change gears to cut 1.75mm or 3.5mm pitches. Built for people about 4' 6" tall. Check it has the 4 1/2 to 3 Morse spindle bush with it. The bed stop is good to have to take advantage of the autofeed trip (but someone has them available for circa. £50 on eBay). Chipmaster/Bantam steadies seem to command unreasonably high prices if missing.

You need to find a long-term Student owner to tell you all the niggles with that machine.

Have a look at the language of threads you want to cut and make sure any machine you buy will do what you want and has the gears with it if necessary as these can be difficult and expensive to track down.

Edited By DC31k on 23/03/2020 16:14:29

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

Completed the insulating/ cushioning pads for the boiler mounts on my wagon. Started to work out the next stage – building without drawings is rather like chess: you need consider all manner of arcane possibilities well ahead, even down to the accessibility of fasteners. I never was much good at chess….

Had a bit of engineer's block, so took advantage of the fine weather (albeit chilly breeze) to attend to the Nature Reserve, a.k.a. garden, by digging out some weeds and mowing the lawn for the first time – and first time possible – in 2020.

Even then I had to do some " engineering ". My manual mower was made by a leading firm in a European country renowned for high-quality in making things… but not necessarily in designing them. The rattle in one wheel resolved itself by the wheel disgorging a steel dowel, followed by nearly coming off as its retaining polythene "press-stud" crept out of the tube that serves as rigid axle. This led me to discover the dowel was actually a driving-pin, allowed to escape from its fits-where-it-touches hole as the wheel moved sideways.

And as for the grass-box… Useless! It hangs off two crude, pressed-steel hooks so it drags along the ground, throws the clippings back into the blades when you stop, and empties itself "on site" when you lift it to remove for emptying onto the compost heap.

Still, I now have something more lawn than silage-meadow, the nettle patch is back under control and I have started cutting the flowering-cherry logs for seasoning as making wood, not fuel wood. (I had not felled the tree but trimmed it quite drastically as it was over-shadowing next door's garden too much.)

'

Perhaps I'll look at another area of the steam-wagon tomorrow, on the principle that a break from a problem may help me solve it when I return to it.

[Ian Campbell 9Participant @iancampbell9]

Posted by John Haine on 22/03/2020 13:40:36:

I have not been impressed with the Proxxon stuff I have bought. Their cheap lathe has an aluminium bed while the expensive one is stupidly expensive and I think I recall some bad experiences people on here have had with it (or maybe the cheap one). And it doesn't have that many features you don't get in a generic mini-lathe.

That Osaki lathe looks rather like the generic mini-lathes from other suppliers. I think people have had good experience with these generally, they have cast iron beds and depending on the exact model and supplier a good speed range. Several people on here have bought machine tools from Arc Eurotrade (see advert on this home page) and found them a very good supplier (usual disclaimer). Have a look at their SC2 machine.

Didn't see your post before my previous reply, the proxxons sure do rise in price the Arc Euro trade looks like a good starting point and they are in Leicester fairly local.

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

I have not been impressed with the Proxxon stuff I have bought. Their cheap lathe has an aluminium bed while the expensive one is stupidly expensive and I think I recall some bad experiences people on here have had with it (or maybe the cheap one). And it doesn't have that many features you don't get in a generic mini-lathe.

That Osaki lathe looks rather like the generic mini-lathes from other suppliers. I think people have had good experience with these generally, they have cast iron beds and depending on the exact model and supplier a good speed range. Several people on here have bought machine tools from Arc Eurotrade (see advert on this home page) and found them a very good supplier (usual disclaimer). Have a look at their SC2 machine.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Martin Whittle on 22/03/2020 11:36:50:

I see that the USA now appears to be the main hot-spot for coronavirus.

…

It also cannot help that the USA does not have a modern healthcare system freely available to all, as is available in Europe.

Having a decentralised Health Care system outside government control is a serious disadvantage when dealing with an epidemic. Although US hospitals and doctors are no doubt individually excellent, there's no consistency between them, no-one to report to, and no-one able to organise a coordinated response. Add to that treatment depending on Insurance and the many US States were people must work because there is no Statutory Sick Pay, and conditions favour the virus rather than people.

As in the UK, where the Chancellor of the Exchequer has gone from 'There is no magic money tree' to 'We will do whatever it takes', including paying everybody's wages! I'd expect the US Government to abandon free-market preferences in favour of heavy government subsidies, social control, and tight management of markets. The issue is how quickly they can respond in the emergency; too slow means big trouble, and this is an example were mobilising the private sector can't fix the problem.

Just a comment, I'm against extreme politics of any type. Right and left-wing dogmas are both doomed to fail. What's needed is balance; where right-thinking doesn't cut the mustard, governments should reach for the left-toolbox and vice versa.

Interesting times. I've got my fingers crossed!

Dave

PS Listened to "The Archer's" today. Excellent fun to be had from a daily soap opera made a couple of months ago. In Ambridge, Grey Gables have had to cancel hotel bookings only because of the kitchen disaster, and the world crisis has completely passed them by. No-one has mentioned Coronavirus let alone been effected by it. No lock down, no shortages, and the elderly and infirm are taking no precautions. I'm thinking of moving there!

[Martin WhittleParticipant @martinwhittle67411]

I see that the USA now appears to be the main hot-spot for coronavirus.

Looking at the data currently (11:00 GMT on Sunday 22 March) on **LINK** , and on the pages linked from there for individual countries, USA is making rapid headway up the chart.

Future projected levels must be approximate, but:

China currently has 81,054 cases, daily increase around 0.05%, so expect around 81,200 in 4 days time

Italy has 53,578 cases, increasing around 14% per day, so around 90,000 cases in 4 days time

USA has 27,111 cases, but increasing around 35% per day, so also around 90,000 cases in 4 days time

So by next weekend, the USA looks headed to be the worst affected country in terms of total number of confirmed infected cases.

I suspect the figures are generally very suspect, in terms of unreported (and generally milder) cases. For example, Italy has a very high death rate, implying true infection rates are much higher.

I better not comment about leadership of the USA!

It also cannot help that the USA does not have a modern healthcare system freely available to all, as is available in Europe.

[thaiguzziParticipant @thaiguzzi]

Posted by Graham Stoppani on 20/03/2020 06:00:53:

Last year I replaced my Dickson type tool holder with a wedge type one from ARC Eurotrade. Very happy with the new tool holder. My reason for changing was the old tool holder had too much play in it that allowed the tools to deflect downwards slightly while cutting. The wedge design by its nature takes up any slack when you tighten it which the Dickson type does not.

I like the wedge type too, mainly because extra toolholders are so easy to make.

But, re the Dickson design, i have to completely disagree. When clean and in tolerance, it is a great tool. I don;t baby my machines and have never had a problem, from my pro days 30 years ago with Colchesters to my current hobby days with a Boxford.

Clive as per usual, makes some very valid points above.

[Graham StoppaniParticipant @grahamstoppani46499]

Last year I replaced my Dickson type tool holder with a wedge type one from ARC Eurotrade. Very happy with the new tool holder. My reason for changing was the old tool holder had too much play in it that allowed the tools to deflect downwards slightly while cutting. The wedge design by its nature takes up any slack when you tighten it which the Dickson type does not.

[Tony Pratt 1Participant @tonypratt1]

I have worked with most types in industry which were quality made but there are a lot of inferior products now on the hobbyist market, for that reason I sold off my Dickson clone & got a wedge type from Arc Euro, very pleased with it so far.

As an aside I am using a Multifix atm for work & I wouldn't pay the price they are going for.

Tony

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Hopefully, if your present collet set up is 2MT, (being ex Myford 7 Series ) you won't need a backplate.

All that will be needed will be a 4 MT to 2 MT reducer. They are available. Chance are that a 4MT – 3MT sleeve will come with the lathe, but you need to look for a 4MT – 2MT.

Take a look at: Arc Euro (They offer both Open Ended, and Tang versions ) Chronos , RDG or Warco themselves

And there will probably be other UK suppliers.

Howard

[SteviegtrParticipant @steviegtr]

Posted by John Olsen on 17/03/2020 00:00:46:

Acetal would be fine in this sort of service, or you could consider going the whole hog and doing the mod on the Arc Euro site:

Arc Euro thrust bearing mod

regards

John

Shame that is only for the ML & not the super 7. But given me an idea seeing that.

steve.

[John OlsenParticipant @johnolsen79199]

Acetal would be fine in this sort of service, or you could consider going the whole hog and doing the mod on the Arc Euro site:

Arc Euro thrust bearing mod

regards

John

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

The photo you show is a "finger collet" which would do the job fine, if you can get one with an MT1 shank. Aha! You can, the excellent Arc Eurotrade stock them here. Only however in metric sizes. Needs an M6 drawbar. Frankly if your lathe is small I wouldn't use over an 8mm cutter and probably 6 would be better.

The problem with holding endmills in the lathe chuck is that they are very hard, and will not deform slightly to take up any misalignment of the jaws. This means that if your chuck jaws are slightly "bell mouthed" due to wear the cutter can worm its way out of the chuck. Putting some soft material between the jaws and the shank would probably solve the problem, but you need to tighten the chuck very hard to make sure the material deforms enough.

If your taper was MT2 then you could buy an ER collet chuck to fit, which you would need to hold in with a drawbar. I haven't seen any of these with an MT2 shank though. You can get parallel shank ER chucks – see the Arc website for example – which you could hold in your 3 jaw. As it will have a longer shank of larger diameter than your cutter, probably it would be safe, also the shanks are softer and will deform a bit. Whether you want to go to this trouble

Milling cutters with Morse shanks are rare – morse shanks are really for drills and reamers.

You need to make sure that you feed into the cutter, so the cutting force pushes the work away from the cutter. If you do that the slide backlash should not be a problem. If the cutting force pulls the material into the cutter it will be a BIG problem. If you have space and the job isn't too big a vertical slide will make life easier – adjusting the vertical height of the cut by packing will be rather fraught!

[Rufus RoughcutParticipant @rufusroughcut]

Hi Jeremy

I Have Old ML10 to and have used all kinds of random make Chucks all with no real issues, it's really your cost and requirements.

I now have a small micro 0-3mm chuck from (Arceuro) for fine work, a 1.5-10mm from (second hand) for assorted uses, a 3-16mm (Jacobs secondhand) for the bigger drill/mills and a 3-20mm from (second hand) for large hole which i've found invaluable for use with holding Rota Brooch cutters for up to 70mm hole cutters for bigger bore projects where the brooches leave a valuable reusable core piece for other projects.

all of these are MT2 to suit both tail and head stocks which also match my Drill Press and small milling machine,

the advantage of a selection is that you can leave tooling chucked for multi manufacture parts so you can swap the chuck rather than the tool each repeat.

BAryy

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Based on my experience as a small spending customer; (Have only twice spent more that £100 in one transaction, often less than £25 ) if i were in the market for a new machine, ARC Euro would be my first port of call.

Howard

[Bryan Cedar 1Participant @bryancedar1]

Hello Jon

I do believe that the prices from ArcEurotrade have been reduced. I can thoroughly recommend them for excellent service. You should not be disappointed. I have no connection with them apart from being a satisfied customer.

[Jon LawesParticipant @jonlawes51698]

After a lot of deliberation I think I'm probably going to go for a Sieg mill from ArcEurotrade, does anyone know if they have sales or special offers? I'm not in a screaming rush but I'll happily wait if I'm likely to save a few pennies (it's a huge purchase for me).

Cheers,

Jon.

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Steve,

Before you consider buying a new boring bar, you may wish to consider some of the suggestions already mentioned earlier, in particular about increasing the lathe speed, and cut smaller depths of cut, keeping a positive steady feed.

Also, you need to be aware that:

• the cheaper boring bars, regardless of from where you buy, are subject to flexing, resulting in a tapper in boring operations involving a deeper hole. The more expensive bars – such as those made by Sumitomo – used for more regular industrial repeat operations are less likely to flex. We have a musical instrument restorer working near buy, who has tested both types for us, on his Myford Super 7, and these comments are based on his and others findings. He uses the Sumitomo 10mm and 12mm boring bars.
• The more the bar is held outside the body of the holder (for deeper hole boring), the greater the chance of chatter, based on a variety of factors, so locking down non-moving components/axis, can help – as explained by Jason.
• If you are considering the 16mm diameter bar, on the one hand it may reduce the chance of flexing, but you will need to check/figure out if it can be held securely in your tool holder/tool-post, with the cutting tip height locating centre to the work, as suggested by others. Do consider the type which are flat on the top and bottom of the bar. Is the bar you are using ‘fully round’ or is it flat on the top and bottom?

Looking at the picture, it appears to be flat on the top and bottom. So the round area of the bar does not locate in the locking area of the tool post/holder. That round area would make the whole diameter of the 12mm boring bar you are using to be between 15~16mm – at the cutting head.

If you are considering a 16mm boring bar, where the flats may be 16mm, if it fits in your tool holder/tool post, the cutting tip of the insert may not be able to be adjusted in height to the center line of the material you are boring. Have a look at this snip it picture below from this page link , which may help you to understand:

Ketan at ARC.

Edited By Ketan Swali on 11/03/2020 11:10:48

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

If the handle of the vice is pointing away from the ram, (It would be difficult to have a conventional vice sited so that it points towards the ram ) on the normal, outward, cutting stroke, the screw of the vice will be under compression.

The action of clamping the work will subject it to compression, anyway.

You could mount one of the Precision Vice, Type 2, as sold by Arc Euro. On this, the cutting forces are resisted by a round bar clamped into a slot. In this, the clamping screw is in tension, since it is pulling the bar into the slot, but not subjected to cutting forces.

Since it will see little use, and would cost more than I had paid for my Adept No.2 Shaper, I made a cheap, soft, and probably not very precise, version out of whatever material happened to be lying about.

How it was made is shown in the article in MEW 290

Howard

[VicParticipant @vic]

Posted by Paul Lousick on 10/03/2020 01:47:28:

The "Golden Arches" hamburger chain has yet to take up the challenge.

Paul

Edited By Paul Lousick on 10/03/2020 01:48:55

They switched to paper late last year in Europe.

[Dave WoottonParticipant @davewootton]

I recently bought a set of ARC Euro split point TIN coated drills 1-6mm , so pleased with them I bought a set of the 6-10mm equally happy with them. Not the cheapest but accurate and seem to be lasting well.

Also found the ground finish drill sets from Chronos are very good value, accurate and last well.

I ordered some Presto branded drill sets( in blue plastic boxes) for work and was very dissapointed , don't know where they were made, but I bet it wasn't Sheffield , some had to be sharpened before they would cut to size, and a few so brittle they broke, didn't go down well at all!

Dave

 

Edited By Dave Wootton on 09/03/2020 15:40:50

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Robin on 09/03/2020 12:18:53:…

I am still buying on price and hoping the Dormer brand will protect me from my own foolishness.

Am I right?

Fraid not – nothing on God's Earth can possibly save us from our own foolishness!

As far as I know the Dormer brand is still solid even though they're not been made in England for many years. Not true of others – quite often when companies shut down their brands are sold to the highest bidder. What happens to the product is down to the new owner, good or bad. Sometimes very bad! Always check Brand names are still trustworthy before buying, and watch out for counterfeits.

I prefer to buy mid-range rather than cheap drill sets and them replace individual drills as they wear out. I use certain sizes much more than others, and buy them in bulk. Tracy Tools and ArcEuro drills have been OK for me.

DIY store sets are – I think – aimed at woodworkers and quick, dirty DIY jobs. The cheapest sets are disappointing rather than outright rubbish. Worst drills I ever bought came from a local market stall – nice box, impressive name, bargain price, but turned out to be carbon steel, with only the very tip hardened. Serves me right!

Dave

[Adam HebbardParticipant @adamhebbard10104]

Posted by Howi on 09/03/2020 09:31:19:

a faulty machine will always raise someones ire, unfortunately ALL uk lathe (chinese) suppliers have had bad publicity due to faulty machines/poor service at some time.

Amadeal are no different in this respect, unfortunately one bad review can spoil an otherwise blemish free existance.

my experience of Amadeal has been nothing but positive, i bought a AMA210 about 8 years ago, with other accesories being added over time.

ALL chinese machines are built to a price and are only classified as amateur use.

yes! it is frustrating when it happens to you, but can you say hand on heart YOU are not part of the problem?

i am sure there are a lot more satisfied customers of Amadeal out there.

yes! there customer service may suck on this occasion, but that again may be down to you.

look at it from their point of view, there is not a lot of profit to start with, after 11 months someone complains his machine broke, all the profit suddenly vanishes trying to clear it up.

i am not saying you are wrong, after all the customer is always right ?.

there has been a large amount of feedback on this forum about all the uk chinese machine sellers, only one seems to stand out head and shoulders above the rest and that is Arceurotrade, but even they have had some bad press. it is all part of the business.

i do hope you get your lathe sorted out soon without any more hassle.

bad reviews always get the limelight, good reviews less so.

Hi, thanks for your response.

Of course I'm upset it's faulty. And my first thoughts were to check and see if it was something I had been doing. I checked with some friends and fellow machinists on techniques, usage and maintenance, and have also been extremely careful with the machine. I even discussed this with Amadeal over the phone, and they agreed this is not a fault that should have occurred. Melted connectors in the back of the machine isn't a good sign. I don't see any way I could have caused that, and they agreed. But as time has gone on, they've just become less and less helpful and ended up being rude over the phone after spending time messing me about.

I understand things break, and things go wrong. But to use a car analogy, if your car failed within the warranty period, the garage sent you parts to replace yourself, said that they had no engineers to help fix the issue, and then became very hard to contact, you would be pleased would you? Also, if you buy a cheaper car, do you expect it to be faulty? Just because it's cheaper, doesn't mean it shouldn't work. Of course I would buy a high end machine if I could afford one, but as many people will relate to, it just isn't possible.

I don't understand how it would be down to ME that their service is bad? They've not been getting back to me, or pro-actively helping me solve the issue. They all but ignore me until I chase them hard, and then they're defensive and verging on rude on the phone.

I would normally agree with the bad reviews outshining the good, but I have a lot of experiencing in weighing up different companies in the light of reviews. The area I do machining in has several small companies and it is abundantly clear which have the bad reviews, and which have the good. There are also some much larger companies in the field, some of which I know are dodgy, provide very bad service and have questionable practices, but most of their reviews are good.

I wasn't posting here in order to stir up trouble for Amadeal, I don't see the point in that. I wanted to know if anyone else has had a similar experience with a lathe of this type, or the company, and how it was resolved.

Seeing the bulk of responses on this thread, I'm not alone. Doesn't mean the overwhelming amount of their customers have had this experience, but it's clear it's not just me.

Thanks, I hope it gets solved too. I use the lathe for my hobby and as side income. The issue is I haven't been able to build anything for more than 2 months now, and it's grating on that part of my life. I'm also losing income and have several unhappy and impatient customers of my own

Thank you for your insight, and also thanks to everyone for responding

[HowiParticipant @howi]

a faulty machine will always raise someones ire, unfortunately ALL uk lathe (chinese) suppliers have had bad publicity due to faulty machines/poor service at some time.

Amadeal are no different in this respect, unfortunately one bad review can spoil an otherwise blemish free existance.

my experience of Amadeal has been nothing but positive, i bought a AMA210 about 8 years ago, with other accesories being added over time.

ALL chinese machines are built to a price and are only classified as amateur use.

yes! it is frustrating when it happens to you, but can you say hand on heart YOU are not part of the problem?

i am sure there are a lot more satisfied customers of Amadeal out there.

yes! there customer service may suck on this occasion, but that again may be down to you.

look at it from their point of view, there is not a lot of profit to start with, after 11 months someone complains his machine broke, all the profit suddenly vanishes trying to clear it up.

i am not saying you are wrong, after all the customer is always right ?.

there has been a large amount of feedback on this forum about all the uk chinese machine sellers, only one seems to stand out head and shoulders above the rest and that is Arceurotrade, but even they have had some bad press. it is all part of the business.

i do hope you get your lathe sorted out soon without any more hassle.

bad reviews always get the limelight, good reviews less so.