Search Results for 'arc euro'

[JimmehParticipant @jimmeh]

These bellows from Arc should be ideal.

Machine Bellows

James

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Danny,

A Iain says, what do you want to make. If you don't want to look around for a second hand British made milling machine, that leaves mainly Chinese machines or may be a Wabeco if you have the money. A Chinese milling machine like the WM18 will be considerably cheaper and leave you money to buy some tooling like a milling chuck, clamping set and a vise. A Sieg SX3 will be about the same price. If these are to small may be this will do.

Thor

[Brian HParticipant @brianh50089]

Just had an email from Hermes asking what the problem was !!!

From the email address it looks as though it was my message to [email protected] did the trick because the parcel turned up the day after it was sent.

Brian

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

This is the sort of item Emgee is talking about. If you don't have a taper ejecting system on the mill then removing morse tapers that have been pulled up too hard can be troublesome. Putting one of these in the spindle and leaving it there for a long time could cause it to be hard to remove.

MT3 to ER32 chuck

They are available with different drawbar threads and also from other suppliers, this is just an example. The advantage of MT3 collets over one of these is that they do not stick out below the spindle as much. The disadvantage of MT3 collet chucks is that they are really only good for their specified size, ER collets cover a range of 1mm (for ER32 collets). This means that a set of ER collets requires less collets to cover a full range from 20mm down to 4mm. This is important if you are going to be holding lots of different sizes of tool. The reality is a few collets will cover all likely milling cutters and you may be better off using a MT3 arbor plus drill chuck for drills. The choice is for you to make based on your preferences and how much you want to spend. There is no definitely right answer.

Beware of used items, you can't tell what sort of abuse they have had if you can't inspect them properly.

Martin C

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by michael rietveld on 10/06/2020 07:57:05:

When will overseas deliveries of ME start again ? In Germany my last delivery was nr. 4635 (27 March-9 April). queries sent to [email protected] twice just gives me a reference number.

Other mail deliveries of items from UK to Germany (and Norway) are prompt in recent weeks.

Mike Rietveld

Hi Mike,

I'm afraid we don't know.

All our overseas deliveries (inclkuding Europe) are dealt with through one distributor, and major disruption across most of our overseas distribution network has meant we have had to suspend everything.

For example, an Australian reader told me a few days ago (by email) that he had just received a first class letter from the UK – it took seven weeks to reach him.

It just isn't possible to set up individual distribution routes on a per country basis, so I'm afraid we will have to wait until the bulk of our destinations are back to, or near, normal, I'm afraid.

I'm sorry for the disappointment.

Neil

[Andy CarlsonParticipant @andycarlson18141]

Yes M14 x 1 will give you many more off the shelf options. An ER16 holder and a set of collets is a very useful thing because it will get (round) work up to 10mm accurately concentric first time every time. It's also less likely to mark the thing being held.

I have the Arc Euro ER16 holder on my SL but you will have an easier time because Arc do an M14 x 1 backplate so you will just need to turn the register to finished size on your machine – this means that the holder will be dialled in to your machine.

Sherline do M14 x 1 chucks too… but you have a lot more options.

I must admit that the PC/SL Basic had completely escaped my attention as part of the Unimat story. It looks a decent machine. Interesting that they went back to the round bar design, albeit a lot thicker than the old DB/SL.

[Steve CrowParticipant @stevecrow46066]

I'll be boring and drilling on a Sherline lathe and the hole is 12mm dia and 50mm long so I think I'll struggle to hold a big enough end mill in the tailstock.

If I can find the headroom on the mill I see that Arceuro do a 10mm 45mm long end mill that I could get away with.

The joint is for assembly so I can get the con rods on the crank.

[Brian GParticipant @briang]

I'm afraid almost everything we have told you (apart from the fact it is addictive and Michael's link to the parts list) applies to the original SL and won't be any help to you. There is some information on your machine at lathes.co.uk.

As the Basic has the same M14 x 1 thread on the spindle and tailstock as the Unimat 3 and 4, you should be able to find additional chucks, drill chucks, faceplates and live centres from either Pro Machine Tools, Arc Euro Trade, Chronos, RDG Tools or eBay. If you want a collet chuck, Arc Euro Trade offer a backplate and ER collet chuck which might be a sensible alternative to the ESX chuck as you could re-use the collets on another lathe or milling machine if you get hooked.

Brian

[SteviegtrParticipant @steviegtr]

I have noticed for a while that arc eurotrade are not advertising any more on this forum. Hope they are ok. I did get a email a few days ago from them to say the seig SX3.5 DZP was now back in stock. So must still be trading.

Steve.

[EmgeeParticipant @emgee]

Hi Lucien

The compound slide and the QCTP are not suitable for your SL.

As already said there is not enough height from the cross slide to centre height for a compound unless you use a raiser block under the head, and tailstock if you want to use a centre or drill.

Same with any toolpost you want to fit, even with 6mm sq tooling very little packing is needed to bring the tool to centre height.

Best to get some HSS tooling to get started, or you may prefer to use insert type tooling, but again you have to account for the tool cutting edge to be at centre height.
You can use either in the std toolpost and will get you making swarf quickly.

I have an SL with many accessories but don't use it so often these days.

Emgee

Suitable type of insert for use with  a 6mm Tool that can be found at ARC Euro site, confirm insert shape reqd. 

https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/carbide-tips-hobby-use/pack-of-2-ccgt-060204-alu-ak10-carbide-tips.html

 

Edited By Emgee on 08/06/2020 19:57:04

[Mark HuskieParticipant @markhuskie41991]

Posted by JasonB on 08/06/2020 11:49:13:

I think Ketan (owner of ARC) has posted before about not shipping machines overseas, he may add something here.

Is there not another distributor in Europe you could try, Sieg list them here

Hi,

thanks for the reply, I am pretty sure that I could have found another distributor but I tend to do a lot of "homework" regarding problems and reputations of dealers and distributors hence my original decision to go with ARC. As I thought that I had already "put this baby to bed". I lack both the time and courage to start over. WABECO also seem decent to deal with so I went with them, maybe not the most logical of argument, certainly from a financial point of view, but it works for me

best wishes, Mark

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I think Ketan (owner of ARC) has posted before about not shipping machines overseas, he may add something here.

Is there not another distributor in Europe you could try, Sieg list them here

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Most commercial Tailstock Die Holders cater for a number of sizes of die OD

The body, which carries the individual die holders slides on an arbor.

A handle is screwed into a tapping in the body, that can rest against the toolpost, to prevent rotation.

The fit between the body and the arbor is fairly slack so that the die can centre itself on the workpioece. The fact that the body carrying the Die can slide lessens the load on the newly cut thread, in that it does not have to drag the Tailstock along the bed.

Take a look at the offerings from Arc Euro, Chronos, Warco etc to see the body and the holders for various sizes of Dies.

Howard

[Martin 100Participant @martin100]

I’ve had my X3 from ArcEuroTrade in maybe 2007/8 but it’s that long ago I can’t be sure. It was around £700 It’s an early one for sure (the motor has a different brush end housing in black with protruding brush holders) and a complex sliding metal and plastic safety guard rather the later two part plastic one. The belt drive is I think the slightly later one with a conventional T5 profile.

I echo the safety guard issue mentioned above, the switch position can be tweaked to get it reliable. Cuts in one direction had the habit of opening the switch but it was with the guard closed. Holding the guard slightly open and it would never fail.

My motor lasted the period of any guarantee and maybe a week (dry conditions, 18 deg C round the clock and with very light use) The motor then failed without taking out the controller.

I got mine back into service with a dc motor from a Boxford TCL125/160. I made a new mounting plate, bored and broached a keyway into an off the shelf T5 pulley, using the original belt and connected it to the original controller.

The setting up procedure for the controller would be very useful but it appears to be unobtainium.

Three setting potentiometers, one possibly to compensate for the droop on load, the other for max current, another for max speed?

The motor is a permanent magnet one.  Three wires to the controller are Positive, Negative and an Earth 

PS most (all?) the connections to the controller are marked with ferrules that tie up with markings on the controller  but they are all loose on the wires, the wire ends having no crimps, so the ferrules will fall off in a random heap unless you tie a knot in the wire or affix a suitable crimp as you remove each connection. 

 

Edited By Martin 100 on 06/06/2020 14:41:53

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

0.044 mm / rev is a fine feed, and 0.05 mm is shallow depth of cut. Neither of which may be to the liking of a carbide insert. They were intended to remove metal quickly with deep cuts and fine feeds, producing heat which softens the metal locally.

It may be that your set up is not producing enough pressure for the tool to cut consistently. It could be that the tool cuts, and then rubs until the feed builds enough pressure for it to cut again. You would see the swarf coming off intermittently, rather than continuously.

Also, brazed carbide tools are not always finish ground, to produce the correct clearances. that may be contributing to your problem. Replaceable tips are ready to plug and play. But can be ground to slightly different angles to optimise them for particular materials.

May I suggest grinding a HSS tool, ,and if this does not improved the finish, markedly, try stoning a slight radius on the cutting edge of the tool. But don't stop the radius immediately below the cutting edge of the tool, You don't want metal, in what should be the clearance area .

Draw out the tool / metal on a sheet of paper, if it will clarify this.

Learning to grind HSS tools provides a good basis for choosing cutting tools, in the future.

It is possible that you are exerting more pressure in your measurements, than the cutting process is producing.

I don't recognise (NOT expert ) the tip that you are using. (At a guess it would be an 11 mm face with a 0.4 mm tip radius), So, it is possible that the tip is unsuited for the material that you are cutting

Looking at my ARC Euro catalogue they quote CCMT, SCMT, and SCGT inserts for turning.

Someone more knowledgeable may like to comment on your choice of tip.

HTH

Howard

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Luke,

I would recommend an ER chuck that mounts on a backplate – something like this. I made an ER 32 chuck that mounts on the spindle of my small lathe, ER 32 because I already had some ER 32 collets. The chuck can take long bars up to 20mm dia. and has good repeatability. With an ER chuck that mounts on a backplate you can easily move the chuck to another lather if you decide to upgrade the ML4.

Thor

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

Stevenson's block in the 4 jaw?

Example supplier of Stevenson's blocks.

The 2MT in the spindle takes up least room but is limiting if you want to pass long items through the spindle. The same issue arises with the ER32/40 collets and 2MT chuck.

Martin C

[VicParticipant @vic]

It’s best if you can get a flange mount chuck for your lathe if you can. This means you can pass long stock right through the chuck and head stock spindle. This is the type of thing:

Chuck

[SamsarandaParticipant @samsaranda]

Arceurotrade used to sell diamond core drills, not sure if they are still available, they perform really well and are not expensive.
Dave W

[Brian GParticipant @briang]

It might be worth contacting Essel Engineering, their website says "As a further service to modellers, we also supply a limited range of spare parts for the 'Hobbymat' machines. Otherwise I wonder if the SU300 Masterturn part will fit?

Brian G

EDIT: Unless perhaps one of these clamps similar to that suggested by Gene happened to be the right size?

Edited By Brian G on 01/06/2020 11:27:48

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Not sure, how tall you want the Height Gauge, or how big the Surface Plate, nor how much you are prepared to spend..

HEIGHT GAUGE

If you are going to buy new, Arc Euro sell three Digital Height Gauges, a 150 mm one at £39.10, an 200 mm one at £79.31 and a 300 mm one at £94.03

If you buy secondhand, (possibly a bit late now, but when Industry changed over from Imperial to Metric, you could find Imperial ones in quite good condition fairly cheaply, because they were no longer wanted. My Height Gauge was condemned, because it had a 0.002" error over 18", which is acceptable for the work that I do! )

SURFACE PLATE

Some years ago, I made a surface plate for The WaterWorks Museum in Hereford., 18" x 24" x about 1.5" thick. A Kitchen Work Top / Grave Headstone maker, in Wisbech, cut me a piece of granite for £30.

You might be able to find an offcut cheaply, and make a base to suit.

If that seems expensive, an industrial, Mitutoyo 6' x 4' x 6" would have set you back over £3K at the time!

So, relatively, I got a bargain; for less than a third of the price an Industrial quality one.

I made up an angle iron frame, with a leveliing screw at each corner. The legs extended above the frame, to provide a loose location for the plate. On this frame, was placed a plywood support which was coated with a moist layer of plaster / Polyfiller, onto which the marble was placed. Being fluid, the filler could flow, so that the granite was uniformly supported, and not stressed.

Finally, a plywood cover was made, varnished and fitted.

An Industrial Surface Table, like the one mentioned above was ruined, by being leaned at an angle against a wall.

It sagged and bent!, Hence the need for a table to be stress free, as much as possible.

(No point in trying to work to greater accuracy than your measuring equipment, which includes the flatness of the Surface Table )

HTH

Howard

.

[Henry BrownParticipant @henrybrown95529]

I picked up a 24" x 18" cast surface table for £30 from ebay, when I arrived to pick it up the owner told me his son had made it as an apprentice when he worked for Rolls Royce. It has a few rust stains on but was reasonably flat when blued against an AA grade granite table.

For marking out I use a scribing block I made as an apprentice, like others I'm very tempted to get one of the 300mm height gauges from ARC Euro, I can't see me ever needing a 600mm high one and it would probably get knocked over, but have so far resisted but when they have a special % off day, well…

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

Unless you're doing ultra-precisiopn wor and you already have a sizeable mill, I'd use the mill table as a perfectly acceptable surface plate and concentrat on the height gauge part of the equation. I have a digital height gauge from ARC (where else?) and it is quite adequate for my meagre needs.

Height gauge

John