Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Phil WhitleyParticipant @philwhitley94135]

This week I rebuild the wire feed tensioner on the Socome mig welder, and fit the Eurotorch conversion kit I got from Techarc. Unfortunately the bearings which I need for it did not come till late Friday, so I will be fitting them and testing the welder next week. It worked out very well! please subscribe, like, comment and enjoy!

Phil. Very hot in East Yorkshire!

Edited By Phil Whitley on 30/05/2020 13:55:06

[Derek cottissParticipant @derekcottiss41883]

Posted by Steviegtr on 29/05/2020 17:57:44:

Look at top right of this page. arc eurotrade

Steve.

thank you

looks like they dont supply anything big enough

[SteviegtrParticipant @steviegtr]

Look at top right of this page. arc eurotrade

Steve.

[David Morrow 2Participant @davidmorrow2]

After all of that thoughtful advice, I thought a followup would be in order.

I ordered the Arceuro Model 000 QCTP, the Myford mod kit, and several tool holders. The first point of interest was that getting a shipment from the UK to Canada was a matter of a couple of days vs shipments from the USA taking several weeks these days.

Certainly the Arceuro parts are far above the RDG equivalents that I have been using. Although certainly not of Aloris quality, they are no where near Aloris prices. Dollar for dollar, for my hobby purposes, they will do quite nicely. There are / were 3 minor issues:

The base of the Myford mod kit post that I also bought was too thick. As received, it was .235" thick and the original Myford was .180". I cut it down to .195" and it fit fine. Arceuro does have a great video on its installation which was much appreciated.

The tool holder locking mechanism is a bit rough in its action – it's as if there were a bit of sand in the gears. I'm hoping that will clear itself with time. If not, it'll have to come apart and get fixed.

The chrome lever that secures the tool post to the cross slide lands right over top of the tool holder when fully locked down so installation and removal of the tool holder is impossible. I added a washer and that made it lock sooner and out of the way. I will probably just cut the length down a tiny bit which should cure that.

The bottom line is that I'm very happy with the Arc Euro QCTP and would recommend it to anyone who is having a hard time living with whatever they are currently using.

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Posted by Caspar Wolf on 29/05/2020 10:45:19:

John Haine could you link to an example of a closing nut and the MT2 finger collets that you mentioned please?

Thanks,

Caspar

The link in previous post takes you to the Myford website where they show the nut and closing tube (which by the way has a straight not tapered bore). Collets are here for example.

[Nick Clarke 3Participant @nickclarke3]

Posted by Steviegtr on 29/05/2020 02:27:47:

Of course as some have already said cellulose paints are now banned.

…..

Just to point out coach paint was not cellulose. It was brush applied. The cellulose goes of in a matter of seconds. By that I would say , when I painted cars way back with it in warm weather. Probably less than 2 mins to touch dry.

As I have already said, it is a long time since I was involved with auto refinishing, however I was very technically familiar with the products used then, if not those in use today. Cellulose paints with a high volatile organic content (VOC) level are indeed prohibited under an EU directive for vehicle refinishing. (but which may or may not have been enacted yet under UK law) Technically the sole exception is that they may be used for vehicles of significant historical value, adjudged to be so by a competent authority and then an individual licence for their use may be granted.

EU Document on VOCs

However this is the actuality as published by a paint supplier, there are many others as an internet search will reveal.

Guide to using cellulose paints

The HSE accepts the use of cellulose paints in their advice document 'HSE Health and safety in motor vehicle repair and associated industries' – "117 The health hazards of solvent-based conventional spraying products (commonly known as ‘cellulose paints and include irritation of the eyes, nose and throat, and mild, reversible effects on the body" Incidentally this is the only reference made to cellulose in HSE literature and post dates the EU regulation.

Regarding coach paints, I suspect you may be confusing coach painting which is a long established skill using different paints, including enamels and cellulose, with coach enamel which is an oil based (now synthetic) product for carrying this out.

Brushing cellulose paint was available until the mid seventies, as were inhibitors to slow down the drying and make cellulose brush able I sold them! Here is an advert from 1958 for the best known brand.

 

Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 29/05/2020 10:00:43

[Cabinet EnforcerParticipant @cabinetenforcer]

Posted by Tim Hammond on 28/05/2020 12:49:51:

Last evening I watched a video on YouTube posted by Adam Booth (Abom 79 ) where he described and demonstrated a hoist he's just acquired called a "Sky Hook", used to assist in the mounting and demounting of lathe chucks, milling vices &c. on machine tools. It's safe working load is 500 lb, and it was mounted on the toolpost of his Monarch lathe. It occurred to me that this set up imposes a very high load on the toolpost,, enough probably to affect the integrity and accuracy of the machine. Many of the comments posted beneath the video echoed these concerns. Has anyone else seen this video? If so, would they care to share their thoughts?

My thoughts are that it would be impossible to sell this product in Europe (including here), it is clearly intended for regular installation, it's safety relies on the operator correctly comissioning it on every occasion it's installed (assuming it's properly engineered in the first place), and our system of law has frowned on that sort of thing for a very long time.

I think it probably highlights one of the biggest differences in culture between us and the yanks, everyone is responsible for their own safety over there, this attitude tends to engender solutions which protect an individual rather than protecting all.

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

If you get the ARC adaptor, you will have to make a suitable length drawbar with the Clarkson threads, there is no other way around this. A length of 12mm studding with nuts at the top and the lower end turned down to the Clarkson thread would be the easiest way. The middle part of the studding might have to be reduced in diameter to clear the spindle bore, as the standard bore for 7/16 UNF might be tight.

**LINK**

Edited By old mart on 28/05/2020 14:01:00

[Dr_GMJNParticipant @dr_gmjn]

Posted by JasonB on 28/05/2020 10:14:26:

Very Nice

You want a neutral tool holder so something like this should do, I have a couple of their other holders thatseem to work fine.

However you will still need to swing the toolpost round if you want to do a 45deg chamfer, it may be better to get a neutral holder to take square inserts then you just leave the toolpost so the tool is square on to the lathes axis, your RH & RH tools should also work in this position so no need to play about with angles

Thanks Jason – yes, the square tool holder would be good, but I guess it means getting new sets of inserts for different materials. Not the end of the world. BTW the Sandvik DCMT holders (And boring bars and parting tool) were given to me, so they don't owe me anything. They are very good TBH.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Very Nice

You want a neutral tool holder so something like this should do, I have a couple of their other holders thatseem to work fine.

However you will still need to swing the toolpost round if you want to do a 45deg chamfer, it may be better to get a neutral holder to take square inserts then you just leave the toolpost so the tool is square on to the lathes axis, your RH & RH tools should also work in this position so no need to play about with angles

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

ARC sell half centres to allow more clearance. I would also have cheated the same way as Duncan.  

**LINK**

Edited By old mart on 27/05/2020 15:38:46

[Andy ShepherdsonParticipant @andyshepherdson55441]

Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 26/05/2020 20:50:31:

Posted by Andy Shepherdson on 26/05/2020 14:06:38:

…

Looking at the various Chinese machines they are all very similar. Is anyone make better than others. Looking to spend around £1200 on a mill.

Thanks Andy

The machines are more-or-less made to the same design, but details vary. They're made down to a price, mostly OK, but some rough examples escape. Probably matters more who you buy from because the game is more about what happens if you get a poor example than identifying wonderfulness. There's a hint that some suppliers do better than others in terms of quality, but – as far as I know – all the main UK vendors refund or replace if they send out a dud.

ArcEuroTrade have an unblemished reputation : I bought all my machines from Warco. They all worked out-of-the box and they all benefited from minor tweaking. I have no complaints. Axminster are more expensive, but offer an extended warranty. Best avoided I think is ordering direct from China, or from the continent, or from the sort of temporary online seller who might be selling factory seconds.

Unless the intention is to specialise in small work, good advice is to buy the biggest machine you can manage (space and money!)

With hindsight I spent far too long dithering about which of the rather similar machines I should buy. Now I think it was a waste of time : any one of them would have done. For what it's worth I have a Warco WM18, which has done all I've asked of it. It's the biggest mill have I space for!

Get stuck in and enjoy.

Dave

Thanks for the information, Arc are only 3 miles away from me so that’s another plus for them. Looks like I just need to part with the money and stop dithering

Andy

[Pete.Participant @pete-2]

Your budget is 3k.

 

Get yourself the latest belt drive sieg x2 from arc euro, 700 quid, I just saved you 2300 of your budget.

Edited By Pete. on 26/05/2020 21:30:19

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Andy Shepherdson on 26/05/2020 14:06:38:

…

Looking at the various Chinese machines they are all very similar. Is anyone make better than others. Looking to spend around £1200 on a mill.

Thanks Andy

The machines are more-or-less made to the same design, but details vary. They're made down to a price, mostly OK, but some rough examples escape. Probably matters more who you buy from because the game is more about what happens if you get a poor example than identifying wonderfulness. There's a hint that some suppliers do better than others in terms of quality, but – as far as I know – all the main UK vendors refund or replace if they send out a dud.

ArcEuroTrade have an unblemished reputation : I bought all my machines from Warco. They all worked out-of-the box and they all benefited from minor tweaking. I have no complaints. Axminster are more expensive, but offer an extended warranty. Best avoided I think is ordering direct from China, or from the continent, or from the sort of temporary online seller who might be selling factory seconds.

Unless the intention is to specialise in small work, good advice is to buy the biggest machine you can manage (space and money!)

With hindsight I spent far too long dithering about which of the rather similar machines I should buy. Now I think it was a waste of time : any one of them would have done. For what it's worth I have a Warco WM18, which has done all I've asked of it. It's the biggest mill have I space for!

Get stuck in and enjoy.

Dave

[Joe McKeanParticipant @joemckean81940]

Having a clearout of the workshop I've come across a QCTP and holders I had for a mini lathe that I no longer have, these were bought from arceurotrade and are in as new condition.

There is a wedge type tool post, 5 of 250-001 toolholders, 1 of 250-002 v toolholder, 1 of 250-004 boring bar toolholder and a oxa-7t parting blade toolholder.

I could put it on ebay but would prefer to give someone on the forum first refusal so could anyone give me a idea what I should be asking for them, think I paid over £150 for it all, just looking for a fair price for both parties.

Joe

[Andy CarlsonParticipant @andycarlson18141]

Hi Jake,

In general I use 1/2 inch HSS tooling. I bought a job lot of the things on eBay for not much money. It was a mixed bunch and some were bigger than 1/2 inch but I got enough usable ones to make it a good deal… and an acquaintance with a bigger lathe scored some free tools as well.

I also have smaller lathes that use 1/4 inch tooling so there are times when I put some packing under these and run them in the Faircut. Some 1/2 inch aluminium angle (1/16 thick I guess) is quite good for this because it packs them both below and to the side so that they line up with the clamp screws better. The main tool I do this with is my Arc Euro 6mm boring tool and its square holder… an excellent and inexpensive tool but perhaps not so handy for those down under.

I don't think there is much to say about tool sizes – provided it fits then you can use it. Bigger lathes have bigger tools and can take heavier cuts with them. Bigger tools take longer to grind. Smaller ones will need packing or a QCTP.

I wouldn't rule out your oil cups being factory ones but they are different from mine. My lathe has plain holes and the spigot on the bottom of the oil cup is plain too. If you decide to replace them then don't make the holes in the bearing housing any bigger… which will probably rule out some off the shelf retro fit oilers.

My guess is that the thing on the back end of your spindle may be the remains of a retro fit mandrel handle. These are used to turn the spindle by hand when screw cutting – it gives a lot more control over the stopping position… and is better exercise

Hopefully your mystery 'thing' will unscrew from the spindle. The original factory part in this location is a knurled collar. If you want to replace it then the thread on the tail end of the spindle is 5/8 BSF as far as I can tell. I now have the 'correct' collar on mine but prior to that the previous owner used a metric nut which didn't fit correctly and I replaced that with a proper 5/8 BSF hex nut.

I will probably still use the hex nut from time to time – it allows me to use a 1/2 inch drive socket and a ratchet which I reckon is just as good as having a mandrel handle.

Regards, Andy

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Not sure that I am that patriotic. Personally, THIS might be my choice – particularly if I wanted more than one size.

[jimmy bParticipant @jimmyb]

David,

Have you looked at Arc's offering **LINK**

I have the "000" on my small lathe (SC4) and "222" on my Chester Crusader.

Very good QCTP!

Jim

[AdrianRParticipant @adrianr18614]

Posted by Vic on 24/05/2020 10:21:46:

I would have said a Spin Indexer but it’s ER32.

Spindexer

I chose ER32 for my lathe initially as the maximum bore is only 20mm. Luckily there are lots of other stuff that size so I’ve bought ER32 chucks for my Mill and WW lathe, square and hex collet blocks and the spin indexer. Although expensive I’ve also found over size ER32 collets so the maximum I can grip is now 25mm.

Oh dear, I think I need to get new glasses, I read that link as Spandex. Now that would be a different mill accessory. Sure would get the neighbours talking as you stroll out to the workshop in your best Glam Rock outfit.

Adrian

[VicParticipant @vic]

I would have said a Spin Indexer but it’s ER32.

Spindexer

I chose ER32 for my lathe initially as the maximum bore is only 20mm. Luckily there are lots of other stuff that size so I’ve bought ER32 chucks for my Mill and WW lathe, square and hex collet blocks and the spin indexer. Although expensive I’ve also found over size ER32 collets so the maximum I can grip is now 25mm.

[robjon44Participant @robjon44]

Hi all, I have 2 of these drill chucks, a small zero to half inch one acquired for a few pence at a car boot, this I secured on a ground shaft between centres & turned a nice true running boss on the rear end this enables it to be held in the 3 jaw for a bit of quick & dirty drilling on work fastened on cross slide, the bigger one turned up in a box of "stuff" I picked up at a garage sale, 3" diameter body, 120 degree vee in the jaws, branded to the Skinner Chuck company of the USA, patent 1903, fitted an MT3 to Jacobs taper shank from ARC Eurotrade as I was passing one day, of the type with detachable tang, as the jaws interleave minimum size is zero although I don't have many drills that size, max three quarter inch, will obviously hold hexagon shanks or stock accurately true, I have used it in the drilling machine, milling head & from the lathe chuck, with drawbar when required of course & I can report that the grip can be best described as ferocious, it has never lost grip on a straight drill shank when deployed on a manual lathe or experimentally when nothing else would do on a Colchester Tornado CNC lathe ( needs must when the devil rides) absolutely cannot fault them.

Bob H

[peak4Participant @peak4]

I bought a used oxycon from a glass bead maker a little while ago. (and called into Arc Eurotrade on the way home)
The chap was using two of them together to run a bigger burner, but has upgraded to a larger setup.

I've been using it with propane as a fuel and both a small lead welding torch, and a normal sized oxy acetylene setup.
It seems to work well enough for the smaller silver soldering jobs I've wanted to do.

Certainly the £80 outlay, plus diesel in the Disco, costs in well for me compared to even rent free oxygen bottles.

Bill

[Ex contributorParticipant @mgnbuk]

The general suggestion when there is an option seems to be to use bipolar parallel operation for best overall performance. As the drive will handle the bipolar parallel current, why go for series operation ?

When I bought the motors & drives for my Triac from Arc Eurotrade many moons ago, I went for 3A drives as i could not run to the larger versions at the time. The motor data sheet showed similar current values to the Op's motor (4.2 bipolar / 2.1 series) but these are rated 2.2Nm. The motors did work after a fashion using these drives in series connection on a 24v supply, but performace was "pedestrian". Note that this was on the bench, not driving the machine,. The same motor in bipolar mode driven from a Stepper Online digital drive at 36V is night and day different under the same testing conditions. I have yet to try this drive a with the 48V supply I recently received.

Nigel B.

[magpieParticipant @magpie]

I have been a customer of ArcEuro for many years and never once have I had reason to complain. Some years ago I told Ketan that a particular order was for a group of 'Men in Sheds', knowing just what the movement was all about, Ketan gave us a generous discount on two lathes and some free tooling. I really don't imagine any of his competitors offering the same when it wasn't even asked for. THANKS KETAN, you are a star.

Dek.

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

I use 2 of these stepper motors which came from Arc euro they are
rated at 6.5 Nm .This Warco mill table size is 30 by 8 inches (760 x 205 mm)
so a similar size to yours ,there is a slight reduction in the output of these
motors as the machine uses a unipolar system but it still moves the table as
fast as the Align power drive .
Here is a copy of the specification sheet as a guide.
John