Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Richard MarksParticipant @richardmarks80868]

6mm from ArcEuroTrade

Richard

[Mark RandParticipant @markrand96270]

SWMBO has ordered me to make a new garden gate after its predecessor lasted less than 25 years.

I'm ashamed to say that I spent some of today cutting tennons in allegedly 150x47mm C24 timber on the milling machine. Mortices will be cut when the 16mm long series cutter arrives from Ketan at Arc Eurotrate…

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Posted by blowlamp on 23/06/2020 11:50:25:

Posted by JasonB on 23/06/2020 07:38:25:

Hopefully Neil will be along later to answer some of the queries but I'll add a bit.

No problem with linking to UK, European or worldwide suppliers that are bona fide companies who comply with their tax, safety, etc laws does not restrict you to only mentioning our advertisers so you could for example mention Warco, Greenwood, ARC or Cutwell APT, Zoro, or RC Machine, Barrie's BT30 supplier & GHW or PM Research, Ej Winter and so on.

How would I ever know for sure those businesses fully comply with anything? Is Banggood OK to link to?

Martin.

Don;t expect anyone to really know for sure but as Neil Said

"We are a UK based site and our policies have to be based in UK rules and regulations, but being an overseas supplier is not a bar to being mentioned. I think most forum members can grasp the sort of suppliers we have in mind. To try and create a list would be impossible, as most of the suppliers who would be on it are obscure or transient; a blanket ban on the marketplaces they use would be impractical as there are many respected suppliers who use them. We ask forum members to use their judgement and we will use ours, and between us it will hopefully work.."

and

"Obviously we will try to apply common sense"

As it is hard to tell where anything from Banggood really comes from since they are a market place then would have to say they can't be linked to.

Edited By JasonB on 23/06/2020 12:23:39

[blowlampParticipant @blowlamp]

Posted by JasonB on 23/06/2020 07:38:25:

Hopefully Neil will be along later to answer some of the queries but I'll add a bit.

No problem with linking to UK, European or worldwide suppliers that are bona fide companies who comply with their tax, safety, etc laws does not restrict you to only mentioning our advertisers so you could for example mention Warco, Greenwood, ARC or Cutwell APT, Zoro, or RC Machine, Barrie's BT30 supplier & GHW or PM Research, Ej Winter and so on.

How would I ever know for sure those businesses fully comply with anything? Is Banggood OK to link to?

Martin.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Hopefully Neil will be along later to answer some of the queries but I'll add a bit.

No problem with linking to UK, European or worldwide suppliers that are bona fide companies who comply with their tax, safety, etc laws does not restrict you to only mentioning our advertisers so you could for example mention Warco, Greenwood, ARC or Cutwell APT, Zoro, or RC Machine, Barrie's BT30 supplier & GHW or PM Research, Ej Winter and so on.

[Steve NeighbourParticipant @steveneighbour43428]

Posted by Jacob Brown on 22/06/2020 06:44:05:

Hi.

"I want to dive into world of metal turning. I been thinking about staying away from chinese machinery and get old English lathe with good reputation"

So you have assumed that 'chinese machinery' is no good then ?

There is a very healthy debate between the 'good 'old' british lathes and the 'new' ones from Asia, and it will continue for years.(much the same as Cannon ver Nikon cameras, or BMW/MB and Audi car owners)

Yes 'some' chinese made machinery is not worth touching with the preverbral barge pole, BUT . . . some is well made and certainly robust, often made to 'borrowed' european designs with the added advantage that there is a plentiful spares and accessories market from a large number of UK suppliers.

I too was in the market for a lathe earlier this year, and was absolutley of the mind set to buy a Myford, having looked at a shiney 'new' one at the Ally Pally show, I was 'completely in love' they are VERY well made, and everything operates so so smoothly, you can grab a manufacturer 'as new' one at the very basic intorductory level for around £3k, but . . . you get no add-ons for that price, if you want a 'all singing' one, you'll wave goodbye to well over £5k and it is still somewhat limited by today's standards, it has a small spindle bore, and limited speed ranges, but there will be a lot of folk on here who swear by them as the 'only' lathe to consider.

In the end I decided on a chinese made lathe (Weiss) badged as a Warco (but there are many badge engineered versions of the same machine) and I have enough £'s left over to look at a milling machine and a few other man cave toys.

But – it is purly a matter of personal choice, you pays your money on what 'you' decide and as long as it meets your expectations then you'll be happy (which, at the end of the day is ALL that matters in this topsey turvey world

Edited By Steve Neighbour on 22/06/2020 15:08:54

[Jacob BrownParticipant @jacobbrown]

Posted by Niels Abildgaard on 22/06/2020 13:52:29:

As a former Myford owner I would buy a new modern lathe instead.

Have a look at a Sieg C4 from Arceuro as example.

If You buy the Myford there will be constant pressure for telling Yourself and everybody else how good a tradesman You are and that it was deal of the century.

The Sieg thing is more silent,more accurate under load,more wear resistant,bigger hole in spindle ,power cross feed ,(My former Boxford has it and I miss it) and not a lot more expensive.Sell one or two of the grandchildren to cover the 400 exstra £ and enjoy.

Edited By Niels Abildgaard on 22/06/2020 13:53:52

I'm sort of old machinery fan. The worst case failure seems to be motor which can be replaced as there is no electronic on Myford. This machine will serve me lifetime if it turned good purchase. Thank you for advice.

[Niels AbildgaardParticipant @nielsabildgaard33719]

As a former Myford owner I would buy a new modern lathe instead.

Have a look at a Sieg C4 from Arceuro as example.

If You buy the Myford there will be constant pressure for telling Yourself and everybody else how good a tradesman You are and that it was deal of the century.

The Sieg thing is more silent,more accurate under load,more wear resistant,bigger hole in spindle ,power cross feed ,(My former Boxford has it and I miss it) and not a lot more expensive.Sell one or two of the grandchildren to cover the 400 exstra £ and enjoy.

Edited By Niels Abildgaard on 22/06/2020 13:53:52

[RoParticipant @ro]

Well, after chatting with Geoff, I convinced myself that I needed to buy either a SX2.7 or a Chester 20V.

Then I made the mistake of talking to my father about it. He convinced me that instead of this being the perfect excuse to buy exciting new toys, it was actually the perfect excuse to practice filing and scraping.

So I duly broke out the files and gave it a go. I started by covering the surface with blue layout fluid and then rubbing off the high spots with a (large and flat) diamond stone. This gave me a rough idea of where to file.

This is how it looked after 5 minutes of filing

You can see the deep pocket in the middle where the little CNC wasn't cutting consistently.

After what seemed like a lifetime of filing I switched over to using a thin layer of blue oil paint on the surface plate and a finer file:

Then, moved on to scraping it. I've never tried scraping before, but while the result isn't perfect, the low spots all seem to be outside of the bearing surface. I'm declaring it done.

Next was milling the top of the other side flat. I had ordered a vertical slide from Arc Euro a couple of weeks back and this was my chance to try it out

It worked beautifully! Definitely less work and more fun than filing 😀

The final bit for the day was to mill a (semi) circular groove on the freshly faced surface. I ground up an HSS tool for the fly cutter and set up the workpiece.

It took a bit of experimenting with the grind and I had to run the lathe at the slowest possible speed, but in the end I cut the slot in 6 passes, adjusting the length of the fly cutter in between each one.

That's it for today. Thanks for reading!

 

ro

Edited By Ro on 21/06/2020 19:02:16

[HasBeanParticipant @hasbean]

I've had it for months but just tried my ARC Euro 3MT 25mm indexable face/endmill on a bit of old black bar.

Very impressed, cuts like butter and a lovely finish (usual disclaimers)

Starting to think that cemented carbide isn't that bad after all

Paul

[andrew lynerParticipant @andrewlyner71257]

A bit of a 'necropst' but the thread is still relevant and answers several of my questions. This post is pretty relevant.

There is one problem with the DIY approach and that is the need for a fair number of different pairs of stock to turn up in the limited selection I have in my shed. I already use two gash pairs and they are very handy but ti get work as deep as possible in the vise, I need more variety and that would mean ordering a number of different bits of stock – in steel – which could end up producing a lot of useless offcuts'

I sort of came to the conclusion that buying a set of cheap parallels is the easiest solution. But the problem is, I have the 'right' sized vise for my mill – the 80mm Versatile Milling Vise from ArcEuro (Which is very good for my purposes). The 80mm chuck width doesn't really suit the parallels that I can find on line. They are all more than 100mm long and I have already found that my Sealy mill is much tinier than its appearance suggests. The shorter axis means that things get in the way and an overhang of parallels gives no significant extra support.

So I am looking for some short ones (just a bit over 80mm. Can anyone point me at a supply? Anyone know of a source that's not Chronos, RDG, ArcEuro etc.? I guess there could be a far east s source but I don't know how to access it.

I'm surprised that such a useful item for miini Mill owners is not on eBay (not for me, anyway.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

I have used the wedges to remove a chuck from my bench drill when changing from keyed to keyless chuck, they are awkward to get started but not difficult, I used a large 'G' clamp to push them together, they work efficiently, having checked on ArcEuro it seems that they no longer supply them, mores the pity as they were cheap enough, a couple of quid iirc, usual disclaimer applies.

George.

[Nigel (egi)Participant @nigelegi]

Posted by not done it yet on 08/06/2020 15:44:52:

Posted by Bob Worsley on 08/06/2020 15:04:25:

The motor rating plate is the mechanical power out. Multiply by 1.2 for power factor and another 1.2 for efficiency to get power in.

OK, so we know the ARC models are power delivered. Do you know what chester are actually quoting?

Cos Theta for many motors is about 0.8 (see the rating plate for the actual value) so that is not the same as multiplying by 1.2? Are all motors the same efficiency? Have you come across a 0.82HP motor on a regular basis?

Sorry, the Sieg SX2.7 from ArcEuro is 750W and must admit the torque is huge down to just above zero, in the time I've had the machine I have never thought this is not enough power. The mill is a lot stiffer than the XJ12-300, but even so I get a vibration issue long before I ever run out of power. However, my approach is that of a self taught amateur and so I tend to back off and take smaller cuts when the going gets really tough.

[Nigel (egi)Participant @nigelegi]

Posted by old mart on 21/05/2020 17:10:14:

I would look at what ARC have going at the moment, they also list the footprint which is good. If you have a choice go for one with an R8 spindle fitting. Your budget is pretty good, add at least 50% onto the machine price for tooling.

I bought an Amadeal XJ12-300 and spent the next few years upgrading nearly every aspect, then looked around and finally bought a Sieg SX2.7 from ArcEuro and must say that on paper specifications it didn't look like a massive upgrade…..but I really like it. I have MT3 version and again easy to get fittings and at good prices, quite frankly the ER25 collet chuck is in place 99.5% of the time.

Both Amadeal and Sieg side by side. As always there are still things I would like to fix and I keep thinking about adding a 3-axis DRO, but that means some time away from making models – now that's a difficult decision.

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

ARCeuro used to sell a flatheaded screw which is what I had in mind as well as the Tang but the former is easy to make

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

like Jason I use threaded tooling which also can be used on my small mill – don’t forget the threaded endscrew (I made my own but ARCeuro sell them) otherwise you have to dismantle the tailstock to extract the tool

[Ross BruceParticipant @rossbruce23155]

Posted by Ketan Swali on 16/06/2020 11:18:08:

Hi Ross,

It is a SIEG C2 lathe, spare parts for which can be found on this page.

Ketan at ARC.

Cheers Ketan, just ordered part needed, thanks for your help

Ross

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Hi Ross,

It is a SIEG C2 lathe, spare parts for which can be found on this page.

Ketan at ARC.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

The lathe is most probably made by Sieg.

If so, talk to Ketan at Arc Euro, about the Tumbler Reverse..

If they do not have stock, am sure that they will try to source the parts for you.

HTH

Howard

[Dan_BParticipant @dan_b]

Some good points made and i will take on board what has been said.

My original set are not worth messing about with – 0.13mm is a big error to work with and really defeats most of the point of using a collet.

I could narrow down what i need a little more though:

• Ideally i would like collets that give me a total run-out of less than 0.03mm on my machine.
• I don't want to waste money buying collets that will disappoint me.

I do like arceurotrade as a trader and have so far been happy with the tools i have bought. If the consensus is that the set arc sell would tick my boxes then i will listen to the advice and go with them.

Dan

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Daniel Bird 1 on 14/06/2020 21:16:26:

I would like to buy a new set of ER32 collets … i'm really looking for information about what is available on the market

I use a bolt on chuck bought from arceurotrade, it has 0.01mm runout in the taper.

inclined to go for a precision set because apart from price i can see no other downsides…

I like to buy tools of good brand name but …

…

Any other suggestions to consider would be gratefully received.

Thanks

If money is no object, approach an Industrial supplier and buy top-end collets. As the best are about £40 each, all the sets listed by Daniel are "cheap", but that doesn't mean they're rubbish. Look closely at what a £40 collet delivers. They're costly because they're balanced to run at CNC/Carbide speeds, about 40,000 rpm. Is it worth buying one for an ArcEuro chuck in a GH600 lathe? No – waste of money!

If precision is essential, necessary to consider the whole tool-chain. A precision chuck is needed to get the best out of precision collets, and a precision machine is needed to get the best out of a precision chuck. The cost rises rapidly, is it justified?

As Model Engineering is a hobby, chaps are free to spend their dosh as they wish. Nothing wrong with filling a workshop with 'quality' tools and enjoying them. It's not what real engineers do though! To them 'quality' is a red-rag to a bull, because it too often means buying on hearsay and emotion rather than cold logic. Adverts, history and personal opinion are inferior to taking a balanced view. Real engineers satisfy requirements; choices aren't based on quality, rather they target 'Fit for Purpose' and 'Value for Money'. Buying by Brand comes unstuck for two reasons: it wastes money whenever cheaper would do the job and it fails when better is needed. Nuts and bolts are an example; DIY Store fasteners are OK for domestic purposes but a poor choice for weight bearing, car brakes, maritime and – god forbid – aircraft. And only a dingbat would buy aerospace fasteners to patch up an old garden gate! Best to engage brain and ask what tools are for!

Hobby lathes are what they are. Buying a GH600 means a choice has already been made. It's a general purpose lathe good for work in the 0.02mm (1 thou) region. With care the operator can do better, but it takes time and effort. For what I do, 0.02mm is almost always good enough. I have a lathe collet chuck and a budget ER32 collet set (about £120) bought from Warco. I've not bothered measuring collet run-out; instead I cut the chuck's register slightly loose so work can be centred more-or-less exactly by tapping the backplate with a mallet before nipping up the bolts. Works well, but precision gear would save lots of time if I did a lot of high accuracy collet work. I don't!

In practice, 75% of turning in my workshop is done with an inexpensive 3-jaw chuck (0.05mm run-out 50mm out from the jaws.) 4-jaw about 20% of the time because work can be re-centred accurately in it. Collets rarely when jobs benefit from quick resetting, and/or is transferred between lathe and mill. That's just me – a clockmaker would favour collets much more highly.

Bear in mind that the old guys did excellent work on worn or indifferent machines without calibrated dials & micrometers. Spring calipers, chalk, wobblers and fitting are effective down to about a thou, the disadvantage being the time and skill required. Bees knees tools save time rather than enable new marvels. There's a good chance an ordinary hobbyist doesn't need top-end tools unless making something special like one of Barrie Lever's high-performance engines. Wanting to own nice tools is a different matter, but be honest: is the money spent for engineering or emotional reasons!

Arc Euro are good at matching value for money tools to value for money machines. Buying from them (and other thoughtful suppliers) avoids the worst of ebay and filters out the tempting expensive stuff. Owners of ex-industrial machines might be justified in going up-market, but so much depends on how their machine is used. Pootling in sheds and my breed of light hobby engineering is a world apart from a professional 'time is money' jobbing workshop. An advantage of buying upmarket products is they should be reliably specificied; but eyes wide open – they won't be cheap. Always consider if money can be spent more effectively elsewhere.

Newcomers often jump into the deep-end by stripping down machines and measuring stuff like run-out. Both risky and confusing without a certain level of experience, not least because operator error causes much grief early on. I suggest finding problems by cutting metal at first. Put the machine through it's paces. If it performs 'well-enough', don't fret! Look for causes and ask for advice only if it misbehaves. At the moment Daniel proposes spending up to £332 replacing collets when it's possible his cheap set is good enough. My advice, get used to the lathe and it's accessories and decide what it's for before parting with cash.

Dave

[ChrisBParticipant @chrisb35596]

Posted by Colin Heseltine on 15/06/2020 09:53:51:

ChrisB,

PM me your email address and i will send the Excel spreadsheet to you.

Colin

Thanks Colin, pm sent.

Did you build your own motor adapter ring? If I'm not mistaken on the Ward website I read you can get one from Arceuro but I could not find any in their shop. What they have is the whole table with motor, maybe he was referring just that?

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

First question with ER collets is always are you fitting them properly by snapping them into the eccentric ring in the nut before fitting into the holder?

The second question is are you tightening them up sufficiently and not with a cheap hook wrench as is often supplied in a kit?

Third question is are they free of burrs and debris in the gaps, if not then deburr them.

ER nut wrench example better than a hook wrench

Ball bearing nut for better clamping also reported by some to improve runout. The more tab on this page also shows how to fit the collet in the nut, you may know this already, apologies if that is the case.

These are the main reasons collets have excessive runout.

Martin C

[Dan_BParticipant @dan_b]

Hi,

I would like to buy a new set of ER32 collets but i am struggling to find just what i'm looking for. I know this is quite a regular topic but i'm really looking for information about what is available on the market now.

I will initially be using them on a lathe but plan to expand my workshop with a milling machine in around 12 months time. I already own a Chinese set bought from eBay and have been quite unlucky in that the quality is terrible – some collets have as much as 0.13mm runout.

I use a bolt on chuck bought from arceurotrade, it has 0.01mm runout in the taper.

I'm inclined to go for a precision set because apart from price i can see no other downsides and i may be tempted to buy a better chuck or maybe a taper chuck option in the future.

I like to buy tools of good brand name but haven't found much on offer in the UK when searching for collets – i suspect most on the market are Chinese sets of varying quality. I accept that these can still be very good but it doesn't give me the same confidence as a good brand name.

These are the options i have looked at so far:

Cutwel 0.01mm unbranded set – Good price and accuracy given in spec. (£86)

Cutwel 0.005mm unbranded precision set – A lot more expensive and non branded (£334)

arceurotrade – Price is OK and decent retailer but no accuracy given in spec (£97.75)

Vertex Standard Set – £209 for a standard precision set

Vertex precision set – £252 – i think i would pay the extra for precision if i went with Vertex, are they a decent make though?

Zoro Indexa set – £145 – no details of accuracy in the spec. Who are Indexa, i cannot find information on the internet?

Gloster Tooling Precision set – £160 for a precision set – this company seem to have decent feedback around this forum. Another unbranded set though but good price.

And that's about all i could find that was of interest. D&J workholding have sets that would be of interest but don't advertise prices.

Are there any other decent retailers that i missed? I think Gloster tooling are favorite so far but I am tempted to the Vertex precision set.

Any other suggestions to consider would be gratefully received.

Thanks