Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by RMA on 11/05/2020 17:40:13:

Posted by Ketan Swali on 11/05/2020 15:51:44:

Posted by RMA on 11/05/2020 13:56:59:

Real feeling of nostalgia here reading this post.

Larger bearings and railway axle boxes were produced at the Daventry factory. Large bearings used on radar installations and larger machine tools, even the BT tower in London. As a rep, I visited many customers making cars; trucks; planes; machine tools and ships, in fact anything that required bearings. What industry we had then!

It was a great place to work, they relocated from Birmingham during the war into a brand new factory which at the time was the largest factory in Europe. The only reminders now are a couple of road names on the new housing estates…..how times change!

Edited By RMA on 11/05/2020 18:00:36

Talking about nostalgia, your comments about large bearings reminded me of the one or two times I visited Phoenix Bearings in Tewkesbury. They had some seriously large lathes. Originally part of Blackwell Bearings, they were one of the few specialised makers of big bearings in the U.K. especially for the MoD – Navy. Just looked them up on google followed by Companies House, to find they went into liquidation, and finally dissolved on 11 March 2020 this year. A little surprised and sad.

Ketan at ARC.

Edited By Ketan Swali on 12/05/2020 11:54:18

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Hi Shaun,

Part of the fun is learning the ropes!

An ML7 in good condition is a decent machine, but – like all machines – has to be used within it's limitations. Not serious in practice but the lathe was designed 80 years ago towards the end of an era when HSS tools dominated.

Lathes made before about 1900 were designed to cut with Carbon Steel tools. As Carbon Steels soften at about 200°C, early lathes are spindly affairs that cut rather slowly. No point in putting fast powerful motors on them because their bearings can't take the speed, and their frames bend. But, used slowly they produce accurate work.

Circa 1900, HSS hit the streets. HSS cuts without softening up to about 500°C, and can be worked 5 times faster than Carbon Steel, so 20th Century Lathes designed for HSS are much stiffer, heavier and powerful. During the 1930's it was found that carbides outperform HSS, and today's industrial machines are monsters, removing metal up to 30 times faster than HSS, and able to cut very hard materials. An ML7 isn't in this class, nor does it need to be! It's a precision machine, think scalpel rather than axe, used to make accurate parts rather than hack metal at maximum speed. Power – ¼HP is a bit low, ⅓HP reasonable, ½HP plenty and ¾HP over the top. Substitute patience and skill for brute force!

HSS can be sharpened on an ordinary bench-grinder. Mostly these are sold with grey wheels, coarse on one side, fine on the other, which is fine. Being a clumsy oaf, I'm not good at it, but grinding HSS just needs practice. Carbide inserts are an alternative; you can get HSS inserts, but the sharp carbide intended for non-ferrous metals works well on steel at ML7 speeds. They're available in bewildering variety, but the types sold by hobby suppliers are a good place to start. Inserts remove the need to sharpen, and I value their easy convenience. (About 80%)

Generally easier to get good finish with HSS because it can be sharpened. Carbide likes to cut blunt, and it produces an excellent finish when used to specification. But this is too much for most hobby machines, making it necessary to experiment sometimes.

Experts prefer to buy blanks and particular tools rather than sets, but I found a set to be a good way to start. With hindsight, a tangential toolholder is attractive, and Eccentric's Diamond Type comes with a jig to simplify sharpening even more.

Perhaps the best book on lathes available is Sparey's The Amateur's Lathe. Written in the 1950s, when the ML7 was new, the only disadvantage is it doesn't cover developments like carbide inserts. Highly recommended!

As you suggest, not all QTCP are well-made. My main objection though is value for money. First there's the tool-post itself, then the holders. I'd need 8 or 9 at about £20 each. Say £200, which is a lot of money compared with a handful of shims, especially as I don't change tools much. I've got better things to spend the money on, but others find them indispensable. Not necessary for a beginner, maybe later.

Dave

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Hopper on 11/05/2020 23:58:59:

Posted by Ketan Swali on 11/05/2020 15:51:44:

Posted by RMA on 11/05/2020 13:56:59:….

the European market for Tapper Roller Bearings was served by their production facilities in Turkey. By this time, it was difficult to consider/justify paying the prices they wanted for the brand for 'standard' TRB sizes, when we could get Japanese equivalents in NACHI and KOYO – without compromise on quality – for nearly half the cost which TIMKEN – made in Turkey wanted.

I've found Nachi bearings quality to be faultless. Been using them for years. I figure if they are good enough for Honda they are good enough for me.

Koyo I believe have recently taken over ownership of the Torrington arm of Timken in the USA. The critical Torrington needle rollers we use in high-performance Harley engines are now still made in USA but come branded as Koyo. Not any cheaper though!

Koyo took the Torrington brand and all its production factories for needle roller bearings around 2010, when the group was split up. At the same time we lost our direct distributorship. Thereafter their re-branding took place, and they pushed out this message by 2013.

Ketan at ARC

[Leo F Byrne 1Participant @leofbyrne1]

I just use random engine oil in my ML7 QC gearbox. I got fed up with the old oilers, which never seemed very efficient, and use the Arceurotrade one-shot oiling system. I like it!

[RMAParticipant @rma]

Posted by Ketan Swali on 11/05/2020 15:51:44:

Posted by RMA on 11/05/2020 13:56:59:

Real feeling of nostalgia here reading this post. Sadly Timken (British Timken) no longer exists as they transferred operations from the UK to India and the two factories I spent my apprenticeship at are now housing estates!

I spent a while as a technical rep for the company before moving on to new pastures and I would advise anyone who has doubts about fitting bearings on a machine tool to ask the bearing company for advice. No point in trying to re-invent the wheel as it's old technology and all the info is readily available.

I have a good collection of bearing catalogues accumulated over the years. Initially, trading in bearings was our main business. Here is a photo of a small section of the book shelf just above where I sit in the office:

It represents a snap-shot of how Timken went through transformation of ownership over time …. TIMKEN.. followed by being part of Torrington, .. followed by separation into Koyo – JTEKT taking over Torrington… and so on. These buy-out and changes have always been there, and very common in the bearing industry.

I was once told by the Torrington rep., that the likes of TIMKEN/Torrington were mainly here/ there to primarily serve the automotive production industry. When I entered the bearing sales industry back in the late 1980s, Mr. Timken was busy trying to shut down Chinese factories which were making equivalent type of bearings. Ten odd years later, Timkens own production to serve Asian markets is based there, along with other locations throughout Asia. By the time we stopped getting direct supply from TIMKEN when it was part of Torrington in mid 2000s, the European market for Tapper Roller Bearings was served by their production facilities in Turkey. By this time, it was difficult to consider/justify paying the prices they wanted for the brand for 'standard' TRB sizes, when we could get Japanese equivalents in NACHI and KOYO – without compromise on quality – for nearly half the cost which TIMKEN – made in Turkey wanted.

From what I can see from this link, currently TIMKEN still remains an AMERICAN brand, with FAFNIR being part of it. Operations – as in decision making – still remain firmly in Ohio USA, with Madras – Chennai link just being another part of their global empire to serve their customer base, wherever they may be.

Ketan at ARC.

Edited By Ketan Swali on 11/05/2020 15:52:16

Thanks for the update since the '80's. I lost track of the company, and a few colleagues when they shut down in England. I know a fellow apprentice who ended up being the works engineer and went to India to set up the factory there, and then was no longer needed!

When I started in the '60's, production at Northampton was mainly for automotive and machine tools. Business boomed when the Vietnam war was on, a whole production facility for fighting vehicles, and we had many car plants around the country then.  Larger bearings and railway axle boxes were produced at the Daventry factory. Large bearings used on radar installations and larger machine tools, even the BT tower in London. As a rep, I visited many customers making cars; trucks; planes; machine tools and ships, in fact anything that required bearings. What industry we had then!

It was a great place to work, they relocated from Birmingham during the war into a brand new factory which at the time was the largest factory in Europe. The only reminders now are a couple of road names on the new housing estates…..how times change!

Edited By RMA on 11/05/2020 18:00:36

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by RMA on 11/05/2020 13:56:59:

Real feeling of nostalgia here reading this post. Sadly Timken (British Timken) no longer exists as they transferred operations from the UK to India and the two factories I spent my apprenticeship at are now housing estates!

I spent a while as a technical rep for the company before moving on to new pastures and I would advise anyone who has doubts about fitting bearings on a machine tool to ask the bearing company for advice. No point in trying to re-invent the wheel as it's old technology and all the info is readily available.

I have a good collection of bearing catalogues accumulated over the years. Initially, trading in bearings was our main business. Here is a photo of a small section of the book shelf just above where I sit in the office:

It represents a snap-shot of how Timken went through transformation of ownership over time …. TIMKEN.. followed by being part of Torrington, .. followed by separation into Koyo – JTEKT taking over Torrington… and so on. These buy-out and changes have always been there, and very common in the bearing industry.

I was once told by the Torrington rep., that the likes of TIMKEN/Torrington were mainly here/ there to primarily serve the automotive production industry. When I entered the bearing sales industry back in the late 1980s, Mr. Timken was busy trying to shut down Chinese factories which were making equivalent type of bearings. Ten odd years later, Timkens own production to serve Asian markets is based there, along with other locations throughout Asia. By the time we stopped getting direct supply from TIMKEN when it was part of Torrington in mid 2000s, the European market for Tapper Roller Bearings was served by their production facilities in Turkey. By this time, it was difficult to consider/justify paying the prices they wanted for the brand for 'standard' TRB sizes, when we could get Japanese equivalents in NACHI and KOYO – without compromise on quality – for nearly half the cost which TIMKEN – made in Turkey wanted.

From what I can see from this link, currently TIMKEN still remains an AMERICAN brand, with FAFNIR being part of it. Operations – as in decision making – still remain firmly in Ohio USA, with Madras – Chennai link just being another part of their global empire to serve their customer base, wherever they may be.

Ketan at ARC.

Edited By Ketan Swali on 11/05/2020 15:52:16

[Mick DobsonParticipant @mickdobson]

The pictures look similar to a PD5 model with the five slot cross slide and the shape of bed casting. I have a Portass Dreadnought which is slightly different.

I doubt you would find a specific travelling steady for this lathe, however something like a Myford ML7 type may be adaptable, given that the ML7 is 3.1/2" centre height and the PD5 is 3.5/8". You would possibly need to do some machining on the donor casting and maybe fit an adaptor plate or bracket. The Portass saddle is not particularly wide so attaching a steady needs careful consideration. It too could require some alterations.

RDG and other suppliers will supply the ML7 type of steady. There are also the Sieg range from ArcEurotrade etc. (No connections to either supplier)

Regards, Mick

[IvyParticipant @ivy]

What's the collective thoughts on using a switch from ARC Eurotrade C6 lathe?

It is listed in spare parts for the C6 lathe but on the phone he would not commit to it's suitability, although it looks like a drum switch to me. (cannot paste the link for some reason) I could use an additional NRV.

I will just say it's for a Brooke Compton motor as fitted to a Myford ML10, split phase, i.e. no capacitor.

Thanks for reading again.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Dave Halford,

My elderly Vertex lifts about 0.002", so i would say that your vice is pretty good, unless it is an industrial quality toolroom one.

If you want Zero lift, you need one of Arc Euro's Precision Vice Type 2. the design seems to reduce the tendency to lift as it tightens.

A while ago, Jason did a comparison, and reported on this feature, on here.

Howard

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

You may find a better or cheaper vice at other suppliers. Look at Arc Euro, Warco, Chester, Chronos etc.

Plus, if there were a problem, you would probably get better back up from Model Engineering suppliers.

Howard

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Hi Gaunless

In simple terms it's what you want to pay for it. what needs to be checked on any drill vice is for jaw lift, lead screw slop, flat base i.e. jaw lift is where the loose jaw tending to lift up as you tighten it, by doing so it will put your item out of vertical & drill holes off square ( damhik ) I got a 4" vice from M/Mart & I had to replace the keep plate from under the moving jaw, it was, loosely what I would describe as a piece of 3mm sh** plate.

I replaced it with a piece of 6mm BDMS.I also checked the flatness of the base to the jaw horizontal plane, it wasn't level, I ended up having to machine the base parallel to the jaws after ensuring the jaws were sitting parallel in their seating, as it was only touching on 3 corners.I finished up machining off approx 1 mm to get it to sit reasonably flat. I also made up a set of aluminium jaws machined to run parallel with the base & put a small 3 x 3 mm recess in the top for holding small items. as for the lead screw; I still need to rotate it near enough 2 turns to pick up the casting thread, you gets what you pays for.

I have a decent vice on my mill backed up with a small 34 mm machine vice from Arc Euro which is very nice…

**LINK**

I aim to get a larger 70 mm type 2 for my mill.. eventually.. . No doubt other members will offer their comments, good hunting.

George.

p.s. usual disclaimer applies.

Edited By mechman48 on 09/05/2020 17:16:50

[Pete.Participant @pete-2]

Tried balanced handle, didn't seem to bring up much, thanks though.

I had a look at arc euro, they only sell the spinning handle to upgrade your existing handles.

WDS looks like quite an interesting store, bookmarked for future reference, they do sell some 'tri ball levers' but don't have any information on the spec.

I have found somewhere that sells them, but they have the fixed handle, nowhere seems to sell them with rotating handles fitted, i guess I'll just have to order them separately.

Thanks anyhow

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Look at machine suppliers.

Am sure that Arc Euro offer handles like that, but check that they are the size that you want.

Howard

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

If you are converting something to CNC, they flex/bend and can sometimes bend/snap the leadscrew. They put a strain on the lead/ball screw, and sometimes also effect the fast movement of the X/Y axis. So for example if you are cutting/engraving a circle, at a certain point you may fail to get a perfect curve. If you are looking at a clock face, usually between 6pm and 9pm.

If you have alignment issues, better to look at oldam couplings, similar to this. These hold the position better. ARC will stop selling these after they are sold out becasue we stopped selling most things to do with CNC.

Ketan at ARC.

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Posted by Ketan Swali on 08/05/2020 11:33:40:

ETA do you mean this one in R8?

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Indexable-Carbide-End-Mills/90-Indexable-Carbide-End-Mills

Edited By Dr_GMJN on 08/05/2020 10:40:47

Yes, Ron meant this one 060-282-00258

Ketan at ARC.

Yes sorry, its the R8 one Ketan added a link for above.

Ron

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

ETA do you mean this one in R8?

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Indexable-Carbide-End-Mills/90-Indexable-Carbide-End-Mills

Edited By Dr_GMJN on 08/05/2020 10:40:47

Yes, Ron meant this one 060-282-00258

Ketan at ARC.

[Dr_GMJNParticipant @dr_gmjn]

Posted by Ron Laden on 08/05/2020 09:58:40:

Well I had a pleasant surprise, reading above the tramming of the SX2P I thought I would check mine as is quite some time since I did it last and the mill has done a lot of work since.

Y reading across table edge to edge 5.5" = 0.0002" X reading across 4.2." each side of table centre = 0.0008". I don't think I will complain about those readings.

GMJN, one tool I would recommend for your SX2 is the ARC 25mm 2 insert end mill. It takes coated inserts for steel and uncoated for alu etc, it really is excellent I use mine all the time on parts large and small. Great for facing and reducing thickness and the finish it leaves is excellent. Its about the perfect size for the SX2 and the mill doesn't have any issues driving it, very good price to.

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 08/05/2020 10:04:47

Thanks Ron – did you try moving the head with your hand while checking the tramming? I'd be interested to see what your thoughts are on any deflections you might get?

I'm getting a list together for an Arc Euro order. I will look at the end mill you suggest. In terms of Fly cutters, I'm thinking of getting this one (when it's in stock again), and using my Sandvik 8mm left hand tool holder with it:

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Fly-Cutters/Fly-Cutter-Holders-Taper-Shank

Any comments?

Thanks.

 

ETA do you mean this one in R8?

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Indexable-Carbide-End-Mills/90-Indexable-Carbide-End-Mills

Edited By Dr_GMJN on 08/05/2020 10:40:47

[SteviegtrParticipant @steviegtr]

I recently took delivery of some milling cutters that had been stuck in a closed Argos store for over a month. One such item is a used 6 insert 50mm facemill. I used it last night. Not sure if I was using it correctly. I think it originally came from Arc euro tools. I fitted new inserts & checked each insert was touching off & they were. I ran the machine at 1000 rpm at 1st. Then slowed to 800. The material I have mentioned in previous post & is steel. I have no idea of what steel it is other than it is blooming hard. They are Chinese quick change toolholders that I need to take 4mm from the lower face. I have done 4 others in the lathe with a 4 jaw chuck & that was hard going. I tried with a HSS flycutter & it just took the edge off pretty quick.

So now I have the mill I did some work on one. It did cut the material , I took 0.1mm depth per pass. ??? I took a total of 1mm before retiring. The main question is & the inserts were carbide. Is it ok for sparks to come from the cutter. It looked pretty but not sure if this is ok or not. After use I removed & inspected the inserts, which were all perfect. No burrs or chips on any of the 6. The finish was like a mirror. Nearly but very good. I tried it dry & with cutting oil. Either way it was the same. Bonfire night. 

Any input please. Do I need to run faster deeper , ???. I did get 2- 63mm mills too, which looking up are pretty expensive items. One is a 6 cutter one which I believe is marketed by Sandvic. The inserts alone cost an arm. But some members have already said my machine may not be able to handle them. From using the 50mm one I think they may be right.

Steve.

Edited By Steviegtr on 08/05/2020 01:19:34

[Dr_GMJNParticipant @dr_gmjn]

Just looked at fly cutters on Arc Euro. If I got an R8 version, do I need a special 8mm insert tool, or can I use a standard lathe tool?

Thanks.

[Richard Taylor 16Participant @richardtaylor16]

Posted by Ketan Swali on 04/05/2020 13:55:55:

Or do you mean C2-29 from this page?:

**LINK**

Ketan at ARC.

now this one seems to fit but very tight and have issues with the cog set the one at top chuck end the cog seems to be lifting off the bearing so I would say this belt is a no shame as it's what the manual specs for it will keep looking unless anyone has a suggestion

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Richard Taylor 16 on 07/05/2020 16:40:09:

Posted by Ketan Swali on 04/05/2020 13:53:58:

Richard,

Do you mean C1-131 from this page?:

**LINK**

Ketan at ARC.

this belt seems to be working ok

Well that's good to know for future reference. Thanks,

Ketan at ARC.

[Richard Taylor 16Participant @richardtaylor16]

Posted by Ketan Swali on 04/05/2020 13:53:58:

Richard,

Do you mean C1-131 from this page?:

**LINK**

Ketan at ARC.

this belt seems to be working ok

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

Hi Trevor

Looking at your photo's the 2nd one down of the external thread it looks to me as if the
first two threads have become a little rounded on the crests and in the 3rd photo
the thread looks a little deformed the first thread in at about the one o'clock position.

I took my 7 tailstock apart to have a look more clearly at this and noticed the the external
thread was very sharp with no lead in chamfer , if yours is the same it needs to be dressed
down ,i used a three edged diamond file this one was from Arc euro these are quite
good for this as they leave a clean polished edge.
In my photo you will see a thread cleaning tool that i use for cleaning the internal chuck
threads ,i think this came from Sparey's Amateur's lathe book it is made from 1/8 inch
welding wire , this also fits the thread in the rear of the tailstock as i have already tried it.
When you get the thread started at least 2 threads in and you can turn it in no more lock
the tailstock down to the bed and using a flat piece of hardwood resting on the end
of the end cap and with a small ball pein hammer give a sharp rap and see if it
moves around a little more,don't go pounding it with hammer blows just one at a time
and carefully ,it wont be quick but will free up the thread eventually , you can carefully
lightly tap around the sides of the cap four places using some wood to protect the
surface again don't overdo this and keep the cap on the move ,you must make sure to
clean the threads often whilst doing this cellulose thinners and a toothbrush.
These parts do fit together quite well ,there is little clearance in these threads
so care is required.
While that you have the tailstock apart check the two grub screws that hold the
nut in the barrel as the can work loose over time.

Good luck
John

[SteviegtrParticipant @steviegtr]

The tap business, I have bought quite a few. The old 2nd hand sets that are BSW & BSF both taps & dies. Most are Presto. Probably amongst the best in the world. The metric set was a dilemma. I would not even consider any Asian import ones for the reasons of that, a tap is a piece of equipment that does a serious amount of work.

Cheap maybe for a 1 off job. But for longevity the best you can get should last a life time. The set I ended up with are German made in HSS. So far I have done a lot of work with them up to press they have been 100%. But that said I have a lot of past experience with tapping steel, spent half my life doing it. You do get a feel for that kind of work. Cannot remember ever breaking a tap. Wish I could say the same for milling cutters (Doh). I always use the correct size of tapping drill. Some go oversize to make it easier. But we know why a tapping drill size is specified don't we.

The milling machine route. Different ball game. I have been down this road recently. I did a fair amount of homework. There are a lot of imported Asian ones that need a lot of work on them to bring up to scratch, which is a shame as the theory of the design is ok. Just the result of working for a pot noodle is never going to be quality. Have you seen these guys & gals in there shorts & sandals working a million hours a week. I looked at the Arc euro ones & in particular the Sieg SX3.5 twin turbo model that looks absolutely stunning. It not only looks good but has all the bells & whistles one would ever want out of a milling machine. They are not cheap & also it seems not available just at the moment, due to probably the current situation we are in. I would have waited for one but was told in a heated argument that I may not be able to purchase one anyway. I was told I may not meet the criteria I guess. Warco I did look at too. But a few members told me the old British made ones were a good machine. I ended up with a Tom Senior vertical light. 1977 vintage. It had some updates like a DRO system fitted & A 3phase motor with Toshiba inverter. I have done a few bits myself. It is a very strong & stable machine. The problem is that one of these kind of machines is maybe bigger than you want.

The advantages of the Chinese models is that most of them are bench top mounting so you only need a good braced work surface to mount it on. I think one of these will fit your needs. The only improvements that seem to be needed is the accuracy. Like getting the various parts to fit at the correct angles. Once that is done they seem to be ok. I would not go for a earlier brushed DC motor model as they seem to have a habit of failing motors & drive boards. The later brushless DC drives seem to be better. Although the drive boards are known to sometimes fail. I don't know why the Chinese ones didn't just fit a 3ph AC motor & inverter  package which is a proven & reliable method of controlling a motor. 

To conclude I was thinking of spending around £500 to £600 on buying one. I ended up £1500 out of pocket. That is just the beginning. Once purchased you will spend as much, if not more again on tooling & gadgets for it. I know I have done it.

Biggest you can afford & fit in the garage.

Honestly if I was a young man again I would be setting up a company to make new lathes & milling machines for the connoisseur. Precise & accurate with a dash of good looks. Expensive but perfect. But alas I am an old codger with a young mind as most of the forum members. Apart from the young'uns. Just an aside I think Myford are doing just that. Dam plans out the window. 

Oh my god I have just looked at my post & I am getting like the Silly old duffer. Nooooo.

Steve.

 

Edited By Steviegtr on 07/05/2020 00:42:33

[DC31kParticipant @dc31k]

Posted by Geoffrey Wright on 06/05/2020 12:18:55:

…a Beaver Mill, which I have, with a drill chuck. which I assume is the standard Clarkson 30 Int taper. I usually use the Myford drill chuck, set into a Clarkson 2 MT fitting, but this then becomes quite long and limits the size of the drill I can use.

My question is, are these drill chucks available/obtainable anywhere?

Geoff,

It is a little difficult to answer your question as you are using terminolgy in a non-standard way.

The taper in the mill is 30 INT, also known as NMTB 30, ISO 30 and most generically as '30 taper'. It has nothing whatsoever to do with Clarkson, who were a manufacturer of tooling. Clarkson-made tooling is available in many different tapers.

Your description of using the Myford chuck sounds like you have a 30 taper (male) to 2 Morse taper (female) adaptor.

Your drill chuck itself will have a female Jacobs taper in it, known as a JT (possibly, if it is quite modern, it may have a B-series taper). So the Myford chuck you have has a 2 Morse to xx JT arbor poked in the back of it.

To mount a drill chuck into the 30 taper spindle, you need a 30 taper (male) to appropriate Jacobs taper (male) adaptor. It is not normal to swap drill chucks between arbors, so if you want to use a drill chuck in both the Myford and the mill, you need two chucks and two arbors.

As an example of the breed, have a look at:

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Chucks/Drill-Chuck-Arbors/ISO30-Drill-Chuck-Arbors