Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Lee Jones 6Participant @leejones6]

Posted by JasonB on 19/05/2020 14:25:21:

Get some half decent milling cutters to, could do worse than these

I just bought one of their roughers – arrived today.

Might give it a spin tonight (with my newly de-burred collet set!) and report back.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

This is how to insert the collet

Was it a 10-9mm collet you used for the 10mm cutter

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Go search the forum for facemill, I posted how bad a cheap 50mm facemill was, the reasons why and how I cured it. Also look at StevieGTR's recent threads where with the right inserts his facemills worked well, the cheap 50mm one did not but all in the same machine

Get some half decent milling cutters to, could do worse than these

 

Edited By JasonB on 19/05/2020 14:27:39

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Dave,

The SX3 is a nice milling machine, a friend of mine has one but a bit over your £1000 budget. The SX2.7 is lighter and a bit cheaper. The SX2P is even smaller and within your budget. The WM16 is around your budget but comes with a MT 2 spindle, today I would have bought one with a R8 spindle. I have an old version of this, it has served me well for nearly 10 years. You will find similar machines from other suppliers.

Thor

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Dunno what wedges you are thinking of. As I wrote earlier, I use wedges all the time, as the only necessary alternative to a tap on the drawbar with a soft mallet.

I have made my own but they are similar to these:

Wedges

[rob smith 4Participant @robsmith4]

Posted by Nick Clarke 3 on 17/05/2020 15:13:44:

Don't consider a 2 speed gear to be an issue – Like my SC3 the SC2 doesn't have one so your thoughts regarding the belt and cogs are probably in the right area.

I know Axminster are a perfectly good firm to deal with and will certainly deal with your issue tomorrow. However in the mean time you may wish to have a look at ARC Eurotrade's website as they illustrate many of the spare parts so you can compare how yours look now with how they are supposed to look before you talk to the supplier tomorrow!

Thanks

[Nick Clarke 3Participant @nickclarke3]

Don't consider a 2 speed gear to be an issue – Like my SC3 the SC2 doesn't have one so your thoughts regarding the belt and cogs are probably in the right area.

I know Axminster are a perfectly good firm to deal with and will certainly deal with your issue tomorrow. However in the mean time you may wish to have a look at ARC Eurotrade's website as they illustrate many of the spare parts so you can compare how yours look now with how they are supposed to look before you talk to the supplier tomorrow!

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Grease according to Arc's guide

Though my X3 has never had them out and they just get an oil once in a blue mood and seem fine after 13yrs of use!

Edited By JasonB on 16/05/2020 13:27:24

[Dr_GMJNParticipant @dr_gmjn]

Posted by Jon Lawes on 16/05/2020 09:49:47:

This thread is a real education. Lots of pictures and suggestions for why certain results are achieved. For someone like me this is excellent reading, thanks all.

Thanks Jon. I think pictures are worth a lot on threads like this. For example, Jason picking up on a damaged tool, even though that wasn't the primary reason for posting it.

For me, as a beginner, it's not worth just posting the good stuff. Even though it's sometimes embarrassing to post your errors it's the quickest way of learning. Hopefully one day I will be able to help a beginner too.

I must say the help on this forum, even after only being a member for a few days is phenominal. Also I have to say that ARC Euro have been extremely helpful in calling me to go through any issues I've had with the mill. I can't think of another company I've dealt with recently that looks after its customers like that.

Cheers!

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

As for Cutters ARC's premium have been mentioned a few times in this thread and the standard length 3 flute that Ron mentions would be a good all rounder and just for risk of being called bias this 10mm 3-flute "disposable" is another alternative., I use both but would suggest you don't go at the iron castings with these until you know if there are any hard spots under the surface, keep the Tin ones for that.

[Alan VosParticipant @alanvos39612]

On mine, the key for the R8 taper fell out, to the outside of the spindle. This led to worrying noises. Try taking off the cover around the bottom of spindle and see what you find. Those are parts 100 and 102 here: **LINK**.

[Dr_GMJNParticipant @dr_gmjn]

Posted by Paul Lousick on 14/05/2020 00:06:51:

If it is made like an SX3, the spindle bearings are sealed and does not have a lube point and you may need to replace the bearings if there is a problem.

Link to arcurotrade web site showing dismantling procedure: **LINK**

Paul.

Thanks Paul, it's different from the SX3.

[pgk pgkParticipant @pgkpgk17461]

Posted by woody1 on 14/05/2020 09:47:49:

Oh I put a dti on my 4jaw chuck body too, I didn't know what to expect really but messing around with the nuts I managed to register 0.001 run out which I think is commendable for a straight bolt on accessory, many thanks to arceuro for a decent product.

There are folk on here more qualified with experience than myself. But if wanting to check how thw tailstock quill affcets things I'd have thought some round stock in the tailstock chuck with DTI on bed and run the quill in and out. You still have the issue of flex in that stock and whether the dti stays centred. Or mount the DTI in the chuck and run it along the bed with the quill?
For the 4-jaw you're centring it manually so what may affect it is angulation within the chuck jaws or body. Either centre a decent diameter ground or turned bar and check DTI close to chuck and away. Or just check the chuck face is true and assume/hope the jaws will be too?

pgk

[woody1Participant @woody1]

Oh I put a dti on my 4jaw chuck body too, I didn't know what to expect really but messing around with the nuts I managed to register 0.001 run out which I think is commendable for a straight bolt on accessory, many thanks to arceuro for a decent product.

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

If it is made like an SX3, the spindle bearings are sealed and does not have a lube point and you may need to replace the bearings if there is a problem.

Link to arcurotrade web site showing dismantling procedure: **LINK**

Paul.

[Richard Taylor 16Participant @richardtaylor16]

Posted by Ketan Swali on 04/05/2020 13:53:58:

Richard,

Do you mean C1-131 from this page?:

**LINK**

Ketan at ARC.

 

Edited By Richard Taylor 16 on 13/05/2020 22:48:55

[HillclimberParticipant @hillclimber]

I don't know about your specific items, but I have been using Arc Euro successfully as my 'go to' for generic tools. The quality, consistency and pricing have been genuinely good – which is not something I have always found among other low-cost providers…

Cheers, Colin

[HollowpointParticipant @hollowpoint]

Posted by Bill Phinn on 13/05/2020 20:17:22:

Hollowpoint, it may be that you do actually want a cut 2 needle file set. Most people do, as cut 2 is good for general purposes. Personally, I like to have the commoner profiles in cut 4 and cut 6 on hand as well. My Vallorbe 4s and 6s were all bought as individual files, not in a set. Sets of cut 4 or 6 are rather hard to come by.

I notice Arceurotrade's Swiss Pattern needle files sets are available in cut 4 as well as 2, which is a welcome option to have available.

That was my other question, not sure what "cut" I want. I think the ones I have are 2's but it seems like cheap 2's are more course than expensive 2's. 🙄

[Lee Jones 6Participant @leejones6]

Going to do an Arc Euro Trade order in the near future.

Thinking about going for the no brand Telescopic Bore Gauges.

Assume this is a generic import product.

Does anyone have them? Are they any good? How do they compare to a named brand?

Same goes for thier micrometers? Can they be trusted?

Is this just another case of 'you get what you pay for'?

[Bill PhinnParticipant @billphinn90025]

Hollowpoint, it may be that you do actually want a cut 2 needle file set. Most people do, as cut 2 is good for general purposes. Personally, I like to have the commoner profiles in cut 4 and cut 6 on hand as well. My Vallorbe 4s and 6s were all bought as individual files, not in a set. Sets of cut 4 or 6 are rather hard to come by.

I notice Arceurotrade's Swiss Pattern needle files sets are available in cut 4 as well as 2, which is a welcome option to have available.

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

As Roy, my vote is for Vallorbe. The Vallorbe needle files I have were not cheap but they have lasted a long time. If your budget is around £50, maybe these would be suitable?

Thor

[Mike CrossfieldParticipant @mikecrossfield92481]

Hollowpoint

I can recommend the Tome Feteira Swiss pattern needle files sold by Arceurotrade. IMHO close to Vallorbe quality, but at a more acceptable price. Set of 6 was about £38 pounds last time I looked, though I prefer to buy just the shapes and cuts I need.

Mike

[Raymond HodgesParticipant @raymondhodges20973]

Hello Neil

I used to receive the printed version of Model Engineers Workshop from 2015 to 2018, and at that time I was able to read any of the Issues in the Archive although the new subscription number is the same as before.

Now I have taken out a new subscription this time Digital which I, as you say, can read it using pocketmags.

I must have missed something when I subscribed to the digital version, I payed £37.99 for the Digital version for Europe, if the bundle costs any more then please send me a PM and i will pay the rest.

Kind Regards

Ray

[Shaun BelcherParticipant @shaunbelcher81617]

Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 12/05/2020 11:01:49:

Hi Shaun,

Part of the fun is learning the ropes!

An ML7 in good condition is a decent machine, but – like all machines – has to be used within it's limitations. Not serious in practice but the lathe was designed 80 years ago towards the end of an era when HSS tools dominated.

Lathes made before about 1900 were designed to cut with Carbon Steel tools. As Carbon Steels soften at about 200°C, early lathes are spindly affairs that cut rather slowly. No point in putting fast powerful motors on them because their bearings can't take the speed, and their frames bend. But, used slowly they produce accurate work.

Circa 1900, HSS hit the streets. HSS cuts without softening up to about 500°C, and can be worked 5 times faster than Carbon Steel, so 20th Century Lathes designed for HSS are much stiffer, heavier and powerful. During the 1930's it was found that carbides outperform HSS, and today's industrial machines are monsters, removing metal up to 30 times faster than HSS, and able to cut very hard materials. An ML7 isn't in this class, nor does it need to be! It's a precision machine, think scalpel rather than axe, used to make accurate parts rather than hack metal at maximum speed. Power – ¼HP is a bit low, ⅓HP reasonable, ½HP plenty and ¾HP over the top. Substitute patience and skill for brute force!

HSS can be sharpened on an ordinary bench-grinder. Mostly these are sold with grey wheels, coarse on one side, fine on the other, which is fine. Being a clumsy oaf, I'm not good at it, but grinding HSS just needs practice. Carbide inserts are an alternative; you can get HSS inserts, but the sharp carbide intended for non-ferrous metals works well on steel at ML7 speeds. They're available in bewildering variety, but the types sold by hobby suppliers are a good place to start. Inserts remove the need to sharpen, and I value their easy convenience. (About 80%)

Generally easier to get good finish with HSS because it can be sharpened. Carbide likes to cut blunt, and it produces an excellent finish when used to specification. But this is too much for most hobby machines, making it necessary to experiment sometimes.

Experts prefer to buy blanks and particular tools rather than sets, but I found a set to be a good way to start. With hindsight, a tangential toolholder is attractive, and Eccentric's Diamond Type comes with a jig to simplify sharpening even more.

Perhaps the best book on lathes available is Sparey's The Amateur's Lathe. Written in the 1950s, when the ML7 was new, the only disadvantage is it doesn't cover developments like carbide inserts. Highly recommended!

As you suggest, not all QTCP are well-made. My main objection though is value for money. First there's the tool-post itself, then the holders. I'd need 8 or 9 at about £20 each. Say £200, which is a lot of money compared with a handful of shims, especially as I don't change tools much. I've got better things to spend the money on, but others find them indispensable. Not necessary for a beginner, maybe later.

Dave

 

Thanks for that info.

I may well just use the lathe without a fancy QCTP for now anyway.

I have just finished machining a new feedscrew for my lathe today, using the cheap chinese carbide tools off ebay, they didnt do the greatest job and I had to improvise with shims(see photos!) but considering this, im still quite impressed with the finish.

I had to change tooling about 3 times, the parting tool i bought was supposed to have had the correct holder for an ML7, but it still needed heaps of shimming. This is the parting tool ive got, it seems to have a nice sharp carbide blade that has not gone blunt, but it takes ages to cut a part off!

I still really dont know alot about the different types of tooling, im really still learning at this stage.

I did have trouble making too deep cuts, probably taking off about 1-2mm max in one pass is about the most it can handle. Also it would also seem to slip rather than cut at times leaving uneven surface (see photo) I wasnt making a very deep cut when this happened, so not sure what was going on here.

All in all the finished part seems OK considering. Will be great to get some decent tooling anyway.

Edited By Shaun Belcher on 12/05/2020 12:29:00