Search Results for 'arc euro'

[mattParticipant @matt27093]

Hi All

I'm thinking of upgrading my lathe. I currently have a Amadeal 920 clone, which has done everything I've asked of it and is accurate but I just fancy a change (any excuse for a new toy ).

Featurewise wishlist is

1. Brushless motor and variable speed

2. Power cross feed

3. possibly larger spindle bore ( currently approx 19mm).

4. bolt on chuck or cam lock nose ( currently threaded spindle nose).

I don't wont to restart the chinese/old english debate. I'd prefer new so any major issues can go back to supplier and as I'm an engineer by trade I don't have any issues doing a bit of fettling and tidying up which is usually necessary with the chinese offerings.

Should mention my workshop is in an upstairs room so weight is a consideration. Don't really want to go much over 150kg.

Two models I'm looking at are

1.Sieg SC4

2. Amadeal BL250AVF

Other option I've seen is Chester DB10 super but I'm not clear from their webpage whether it has a brushless or ac motor and what the rating is ( manual is for an older model) plus its out os stock.

Originally I was think SC4 but for an extra £200 or so for the Amadeal or Chester offerings I would gain a bit of capacity both in swing over bed and spindle bore ( MT4 26mm bore as opposed to MT3 20mm bore).

Has anyone any thoughs/experience of either machine ( or options I haven't found)?.

Matt

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Mad Mike beat me to it.

I was looking up the 4/3MT open sleeve in the Arc Euro catalogue. (120-010-00340 ) should be about £8.50 plus P&P.

Howard

[MadMikeParticipant @madmike]

Well I would have absolutely no hesitation in buying the MT4/3 socket from Arc Euro. However before doing that perhaps it would be wise to clock the machine spindle to see if it has excessive run out, and/or play in the bearings.

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Just for clarification:

The link in Ro's post is to board XMT2335 – which is for C3 mini-lathe.

The picture of the board in Marks picture seems to show the board XMT2325 – link which is for C2 mini-lathe, which makes sense for a Clarke CL300M.

In any case, out of stock at ARC.

If Marks son has had zero/low guidance/ training on the lathe before being let loose on it, the probability of him breaking things are high, to include hi/lo gears, control board/s, as the chances of him overloading the machine are high.

On the one hand, depending on above, it would be wrong to get upset on Marks son, and on the other hand, there is good reason why costs of certain components are high,

Ketan at ARC.

[RoParticipant @ro]

Hi Mark,

you can replace the board, although you may be shocked at the price!

something like this SHOULD work (worth checking compatability before ordering though):

**LINK**

I did this the first time my controller broke, but after it went pop for the second time, I replaced it with a generic speed controller for about 20 quid from ebay. Worked fine for about 5 years until I upgraded my lathe.

if you want to go down this route, look for "220v DC motor controller", but be warned, it's not a straight replacement, and if you want the reversing switch and emergency stop to work, you'll have to figure the wiring out.

Quite a saving though.

ro

 

Edited By Ro on 15/07/2020 20:29:27

[Keith ChartersParticipant @keithcharters25446]

Hi, having recently retired I have decided to take up model engineering again after a gap of 20+ years. I have recently taken delivery of a new Warco Super Mini Lathe with which I am very pleased. However, during a strip down and clean to prepare it for use, I have noticed that both the cross slide and compound slide gib strips have only one indent drilled, not the three I was expecting (see attached photo). Can someone advise me please is this a problem? Everything appears to be smooth and I cannot detect any movement in either slide but I am concerned that this may be a problem once the lathe is regular use. Arceurotrade sell a gib strip upgrade to brass strips for these machines so would it be advisable to upgrade to the brass strips?

Thanks in advance, Keith.

[clogsParticipant @clogs]

this is for a home workshop.…..

I have several machine at 3HP and 1x 5hHP, all 3 phase and they all have a plug……..

correct for 3phase and size of power used……….

3 reasons,

1, it's a pain when I need to move machines in the workshop when tied to the wall…..

2, have an inate fear of the power being switched on by mistake when moving or working within/around the machines…..

3, In France the fixed to the wall type isolater was almost €125 each x the number of machines….expensive….

so the plug n play method saved me 2/3rds of the cost……..

Also in France LeGrand is the only supplier of H/D electrical gear….and they have u by the short and curley's…..

so in my opinion there's nothing wrong with plugs n sockets provided they are QUALITY components….and within the amperage usage……

BUT

if running near max power for long periods then a dedicated supply must be used…..say a large comp, arc welder etc….

whilst on the subject of elec……..

with exceptions I prefered the old fashioned wired fuse board……esp around the arc welder etc…..

where I used to live we got a lot of electrical storms, many a times I've had to replace an RCD or what ever they are called due to a close lightning strikes……once the house took a direct hit and it welded the 3 phase RCD main isolater together……that was €240 to replace, about 1/2 that in the UK…….

it seems to me most elec problems in the home workshop is nobody wants to spend the money to get a DEDICATED supply instaled…..a 2.5mm extension lead just cant hack it……

keep the electrical questions comming………

[Ian Johnson 1Participant @ianjohnson1]

Posted by Barrie Lever on 13/07/2020 17:37:17:

Where do you get a Seig KX1? Ketan stopped selling them and Axminster don't list it and also look to be low on stock of any Sieg CNC.

B.

I bought my KX1 from arc euro over four years ago. Soon after I bought it arc euro had issues with back up and servicing of the machines, so decided to exit the CNC market. Axminster as far as know still sell them under their own banner and colours, in an enclosure. But due to the coronavirus may be having difficulty getting machines.

Can't remember the last time I saw one for sale, I think people keep hold of them because they are good machines.

IanJ

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Nathan Sharpe on 09/07/2020 20:48:15:

Hi all, I have no idea where I posted first of all but must update those members who responded.. I have had a face to face with a Body movement specialist, no problems as far as he is aware. I also had a telephone consultation with a neurologist , he seems to leaning towards Cerebellar Ataxia. Do any of you suffer from or have a partner/spouse suffering from same? Can you advise on Medication etc?

Nathan.

Moderators, put this where it belongs please.

Hi Nathan,

You posted about your tremor in this thread back in march, this is the place for an update.

I hope things go well for you now you are getting some more specific details.

Apparently one cause is gluten, so while you wait for a fuller diagnosis you might want to try a gluten free diet for a few weeks.

Might be an idea to start a new thread in the 'Tea Room'.

Neil

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 10/07/2020 14:40:04

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

You don't need to look far

[Andy CarlsonParticipant @andycarlson18141]

Hi James,

I think when folks suggest HSS tooling they most likely mean square (solid) HSS tools either ready made or as blanks.

Most of the likely suspects (Arc Euro, RDG, Chronos and so on) do them in sets of six in different sizes depending on what best suits your lathe – basically you need to know the height between the surface on which the tool will sit and the centre height. You can go smaller and use packing if you want… or buy HSS blanks and grind your own… or pick old industrial ones up on fleabay often for very little money (but pay attention to the tool size and postage cost).

I honestly dont know if HSS inserts are available for tooling that normally takes carbide. Possibly not.

[Martin WhittleParticipant @martinwhittle67411]

Where would you buy small drill bits, say in the range 0.4 to 0.8mm?

I tried to drill a small brass piece the other day on the lathe with a 0.6mm bit . After an initial location peck with a centre drill, I found the small bit was not at all interested in drilling, but just started to physically spring into an arc with increased tailstock pressure.

The bit was from a set I bought from China via eBay, a few years back, 10 off many sizes from 0.4mm to 3mm or so. On examining the bits with an eyeglass, I was shocked at the tip grinding: I did not expect it to be necessarily that perfect and symmetrical at the price, but the smaller sizes often had a remarkably rounded and amorphous tip, or a very asymmetric one. Or even no sign of a central point! Larger sizes appeared very much better, but I have not actually tried them as I have other drills for above 1mm.

So on to a ‘Microdrill’ set bought at a show. This was better, but nothing to write home about. I than found that I had a few higher quality drill bits stored away in a bag, and one of these worked as perfectly as expected.

Therefore I would like to obtain a set of bits of the size suggested above. Prices seem to have a very wide spread. E.g.

• UK Drills do 10 off individual sizes for prices under £1.30. I have used UK Drills previously and been very pleased, but have not tried them for small sizes.
• Arceurotrade do ‘polished drill bit sets’, 20 piece set, 2 off sizes 0.3 to 1.3mm for £3.47. Sounds absolutely perfect, but how good are they? I have a couple of 1.3mm cobalt HSS bits I purchased from them a few years back, examination shows they look good apart from having the tip a bit off centre, maybe only 0.1mm, but that is a very significant amount on a small drill, and I want significantly smaller sizes.
• Cousins appear very trustworthy and clear: they stock a number of classes of drill bits. They recommend that for metal, use bits from Dormer. No problem with this, although the price is obviously higher for a quality item, generally north of £3 each, rising to £6.75 for a 0.2mm bit (now where did I drop that little bit on the littered workshop floor?). Their other ranges are said to be suitable for soft materials such as ‘wood, wax, and leather'. Fair enough, and also describes the bits I have, fully capable of battering their way through a sheet of balsa.
• Cousins also carry 2 manufacturers versions of ‘jewellery drill bits’, small bit diameter on 2.35mm shank, relevant prices either around £1 or £3.

So I would like to buy a set with more than 1 of each size to allow for the odd breakage. I have probably psyched myself up to paying around £3 per bit for a quality item (either Dormer or A*F parts from Cousins), but would be interested in other’s experience.

Re. the ‘jewellery bits’, these obviously can be used in chucks of greater minimum capacity, have others found them good?

Martin

[Stuart Smith 5Participant @stuartsmith5]

Roger

As I said in my previous post, I have a Warco WM16, but if you are considering the Axminster 2.7, I suggest you look at Arceurotrade. They sell Sieg made machines and are generally cheaper than Axminster and have a good reputation. See their Sieg SX2.7. **LINK**

Stuart

[Tim HammondParticipant @timhammond72264]

Without doubt, the best modification I made to my Clarke minilathe was fitting a handwheel to the end of the leadscrew. I bought a suitable wheel, complete with dial, from ArcEurotrade, and because the leadscrew is a RH thread, the dial reads backwards. Initially I thought that this would cause all sorts of problems, but after a couple of operations I adapted to turning the wheel CCW to advance the saddle and reading the dial backwards. I confess, though, that I hadn't thought of using Hopper's suggestion above – I'll give it a try.

[Andy CarlsonParticipant @andycarlson18141]

This is definitely a learning experience…

Got myself a little more 'tooled up' yesterday by making a mini 'Squire' from 6mm silver steel on the Cowells. This fits into the Arc Euro holder that is intended for their HSS boring tool.

I also made a handle for the countershaft (which is effective but looks awful so no photos!) and a couple of little gauges from 15 thou brass, one to check the thread width and the other to check the depth.

Tonight I had another go at the same cross slide feed nut and proved to myself that I couldn't 'pick up' the thread. No matter… this is a test… I pressed on to the point where the depth gauge just about fitted and the smaller bar and countershaft handle both proved their worth. Then on the final cut the cutting insert came loose from the bar (doh… should have tightened the screw again once it was held in the toolpost).

I'd 'lost' the thread again but it was near enough to try. It just about goes on to a not too worn thread but is very stiff. Making a finishing tap should help (still waiting for the silver steel). I also discovered that I'd made a howling error. Can you spot it?

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

It is easy to discount a machine that is ‘out of stock’. Possibly the next consignment may be more expensive? That may apply to the Axminster 2.7.

Maybe compare with Arceurotrade equivalent? Actual specifications may be different.

I note the new WM14 has a wider table, so likely needs almost 1000mm for easy full x axis travel (330mm). Width of machine is given as 600mm, then there is table travel and hand space.

Is your workshop a walk-through corridor or could you be better placing the mill at the end?

[Stuart Smith 5Participant @stuartsmith5]

I bought a cj18a mini lathe from Amadeal just over 2 years ago. I have been happy with it as an entry level machine to the hobby.

I had no experience of lathes , so looked at the prices and specifications of the similar lathes sold by the various uk sellers ( Warco, Chester, Axminster, Arceurotrade etc). I decided to buy the one from Amadeal as it was among the cheapest at the time and had a better spec than some of the others.

The lathe was delivered quickly . The second time I used it, the plastic hand wheel broke ( I think it was damage in transit). I rang Amadeal at about 4 pm to explain the problem. They sent me a replacement which arrived the next day, which I thought was excellent customer service.

I have bought a few small items from them since and have been happy with the service and prices. They seem to stock a large range of spares for their machines with the prices listed on their website.

I did have a problem with one item ( an ER collet chuck) which was not machined accurately. I contacted them and they sent a replacement the same day with a prepaid envelope to return the faulty one. Unfortunately, the replacement had the same problem, so I asked for a refund. They offered to get them picked up by courier, but I preferred to post them back myself, which I did. They refunded the cost of the item and my postage costs direct to my paypal account the day they received them back.

So overall, I am happy with my lathe and the service from Amadeal.

Stuart

Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 01/07/2020 19:57:27

[HowiParticipant @howi]

I have had mabout ity AMADEAL 210 for 8 years now, I wrote an article in Model Engineers Workshop about it (two articles in fact). It was bought at a time when most of the ubiquetous mini lathes needed a lot of fettling to get them up to spec.

The 210 worked straight out of the box and is slightly larger and heavier than the normal 3 1/2 inch mini lathe while still managable in a small workshoip. In my 8 years of ownership I have not had any trouble whatsoever.

As for Amadeal, all I can say as a satisfied customer, I have had no problems at all, I have bought extra bits for the 210 such as steadies, faceplate, quick change tool holder and a rotary table, all from Amadeal and hasve been more than happy with my purchase. Others may have different views, I can only say as I find.

As for other suppliers, Arceuro are up there with the best, I got my SX2P mini mill from them + lots of tooling etc and their service is second to non.

A lot of water has gone under the bridge since I bought my lathe and most mini lathes and up tend to be of a lot better quality, My 210 came with a quality control spec sheet, how much that can be relied on is anyones guess but I have no reason to doubt it's authenticity.

All I can say is I am more than satisfied with my purchases from AMADEAL, what more can I say.

Edited By Howi on 01/07/2020 09:36:12

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Many people including me have had very good experiences with Arc Eurotrade who sell similar machines and give excellent customer service.

[Norman PinkneyParticipant @normanpinkney15518]

Hi all,

I'm hoping someone out there can help. I'm looking for the voltage supplied by an Arc Euro digital display head to the linked scales. The scales take a 3v cell but the clock/data signals are only 1.5v. I would like to know what the voltage supplied by the head to the cells is – when operating in remote read? Does anyone know? or have a set of these they could measure for me – thanks. These are the links to the scales:

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Measurement/Standard-Digital-Readouts/Standard-Digital-Readout-Bars—Horizontal-100mm-to-400mm-Length

And

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Measurement/Standard-Digital-Readouts/Standard-Digital-Readout-Bars—Vertical-100mm-to-300mm

Any and all info on the voltage fed down from the Digital Display Unit much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Posted by Andy Carlson on 27/06/2020 14:20:41:

@Jason: I have just bought a 1mm stub cutter from Arc Euro but so far it has not been on the machine so I'm not able to say anything much about it. Any thoughts on how the geometry compares to the Proxxon ones?

If you look at the photo on ARC's site for the stub and standard length ones you can see that these cutters have the more traditional 30deg helix, compare this to one of their 45deg helix cutters for aluminium (& Non ferrous / plastic) and that looks far more like the geometry on the Proxxon ones suggesting they are more suitable for easier cutting materials.

[blowlampParticipant @blowlamp]

Posted by Andy Carlson on 27/06/2020 14:20:41:

@blowlamp: Interesting thought. Thanks. The collet mikes at 186.4 thou which seems suspiciously close to 3/16 for such a metric machine. My 3/16 brass bar mikes at 187 and is a fairly loose fit in the collet holder. I thought 5mm… My 5mm drill shank mikes at 194.4 thou (4.93mm) and won't go in. That's about exhausted my stock of things in this sze range. I might have a try making a new collet but my only slitting saws are too thick for that job so it won't be any time soon.

@Jason: I have just bought a 1mm stub cutter from Arc Euro but so far it has not been on the machine so I'm not able to say anything much about it. Any thoughts on how the geometry compares to the Proxxon ones?

If you can get some good dimensions of your collet, I could CNC one up for you to try if you think yours is slack.

Just let me know if you want one doing.

Martin.

[Andy CarlsonParticipant @andycarlson18141]

@blowlamp: Interesting thought. Thanks. The collet mikes at 186.4 thou which seems suspiciously close to 3/16 for such a metric machine. My 3/16 brass bar mikes at 187 and is a fairly loose fit in the collet holder. I thought 5mm… My 5mm drill shank mikes at 194.4 thou (4.93mm) and won't go in. That's about exhausted my stock of things in this sze range. I might have a try making a new collet but my only slitting saws are too thick for that job so it won't be any time soon.

@Jason: I have just bought a 1mm stub cutter from Arc Euro but so far it has not been on the machine so I'm not able to say anything much about it. Any thoughts on how the geometry compares to the Proxxon ones?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I had a bit of a look around for the shortest cutters and it turns out our friends at ARC have a couple of cutters that look like they would be upto the job.

Their Standard length Premium carbide3-flute at 2mm dia has a 6mm flute length and their stub length 2-flute an even better 3mm flute length, both have 3mm shanks. They are a bit more expensive than the Hertel but not far off the cost of Proxxon. May be worth a try though doing so after chasing down the runout may be a better bet for the wallet.

I managed to pull Ketan away from something far more important long enough to get a couple of photos.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Coming in late, as usual.

In my experience, it bis not possible to remove and then re use ball oilers. Once removed, a new item has to be fitted. Arc Euro can supply, look at their website or Catalogue 11.

With regard to oil guns, my choice is the Reilang, unlike the Myford gun which put oil everywhere except where i wanted it, the Relaing does the job every time, with very few leaks, and small ones when it does.

Howard

fat fingers, again!

Edited By Howard Lewis on 26/06/2020 15:50:35