Search Results for 'arc euro'

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The Tome files that ARC sell are all cold worked to cut the teeth and then induction heated and quenched. They have whole rows of those machines that cut the teeth into the cold steel. See the video

The Permagrit files are probably a better bet than those rather coarse files linked to earlier, certainly if you want a fine finish

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

As an approach to making long T-bolts…

I made the two 5/16″ BSF X 3″ long T-nuts for the Stent T&C grinder, in two parts for economy of steel, time – and electricity.

I threaded the head end of the stem slightly long, cleaned it and the head thoroughly, and assembled them tightly to the thread limit with ‘Loctite’. Once both bolts had cured overnight I could then skim the underside of the head, removing the little bit of protruding stem as I did, to the finished thickness.

…

As a general point on making jigs and fixtures, I try as some people here have indicated, to make them potentially useable for future, broadly-similar tasks.

This includes a sub-table I made for my 6″ rotary-table, a steel disc about 4 inches diameter that is drilled for screws for the RT’s own T-nuts but then has rings of M6 tapped holes for clamping small work-pieces.

A spigot on the underside locates in the table’s 3/4″ dia location counterbore above a 1/2″ BSW tapped continuation. (No Morse taper.)

I forget its original purpose but while making it, gave it more holes than needed for that, and among other things it can be used with a commercial, small M6-based clamp-set and the clamps for the BCA jig-borer.

I own a couple of those hefty 3/8″ UNC-based clamping kits, probably bought from ARC Euro. Once I had identified that as the thread I augmented it with standard bolts and set-screws for where I want an arrangement less cumbersome than the original kit alone can give. On the milling-machine but also on the Harrison and I think Myford lathe’s faceplates, and the bench-drills’ tables.

 

[Ex contributor]

On Ex contributor Said:

Sadly that’s not true, far from it, particularly with Diesel engines.

If you look at the Euro 6 specified limits for all vehicles, there is nothing to choose between petrol & diesel engines. There are differences – petrols have an unburnt hydrocarbons limit that diesels don’t & diesels have a NoX limt that petrols don’t. Since investigations carried out into “real world” emissions (rather than “test house” measurements) in the wake of the VW diesel situation that have tweaked the Euro 6 limits (ino change to the actual limits, but substantial tightening of the allowable variance between test house & real world test results), both types now have a particulate limit, as some supposedly compliant petrol engines with direct injection were found to be worse than diesels for particulates.

An article in Auto Express this week announced a new investigation by the FCA into the car insurance market at the behest of parliament, due to questions being asked by MPs about concerns raised by constituents as to whether the “market” is working “correctly”. I am not holding my breath in anticipation that the situation will change in my favour as a result of these “investigations” !

Nigel B.

[Michael Callaghan]

On Michael Callaghan Said:
And if the car is euro 6 it is very clean.

Sadly that’s not true, far from it, particularly with Diesel engines.

[Mike Hurley]

On Mike Hurley Said:

Yes, the mpg on my couple of years old VW is very poor. Mostly urban driving though, but I’m not particularly heavy with the right foot.

The odd motorway trip mpg is very good, as you might expect

 

On Mike Hurley Said:

Yes, the mpg on my couple of years old VW is very poor. Mostly urban driving though, but I’m not particularly heavy with the right foot.

The odd motorway trip mpg is very good, as you might expect

 

On Vic Said:

On Bill Dawes Said:

 

Another rip off was the road fund licence with a huge bump up because it was over  £40k, exactly same performance, mpg, emmissions etc where is the justification for that other than a rich mans penalty.

 

Bill D

Cars over £40k are generally more likely to have bigger more polluting engines so perhaps it’s to encourage motorists to buy something a bit cleaner?

I was quite surprised to learn that many new cars, particularly German ones it seems, return really poor mpg figures.

Sorry that’s just not true. It’s very easy to get a new car over £40,000 just by adding extras. Led adaptive headlights can add between £ 2/3000 on base price. Sun roof £2000, better radio £1500 and the list goes on. And if the car is euro 6 it is very clean.

 

[Phil P]

On Phil P Said:

It looks like it might be off a Deckel FP1.

He has posted previously that it is a FUS 250, a Romanian Thiel 158 copy:

Thiel 158 clone restoration

—

All of the ‘European-style’ milling machines have a family resemblance – look at Deckel, Schaublin, Thiel, Aceira, Mikron, TOS and you will see a very similar looking dividing head.

[Anonymous]

I’m not entirely sure what the original question was about; threading dies, single point screwcutting or both?

Although I have a good selection of threading dies, from 10BA to 1-1/2″ BSF, I don’t use them that often. For the centre lathe I have a set of tailstock holders from ArcEuroTrade and a selection of special holders with dog clutches for the repetition lathe. But I find dies a pain to adjust, they always seem to cut a thread too tight or too loose. Coarser threads can be difficult to start and finer threads have a habit of tearing. Even with a tailstock holder the dies sometimes seem to cut a wonky thread. I much prefer to use Coventry dieheads. They produce excellent thread forms from stock size. I never turn stock undersize before threading.

In general I prefer to screwcut threads on parts other than basic fasteners. For external V-threads I use full form inserts as they form both root and crest correctly, like this 3/4″ BSW thread:

For larger internal threads I use full form inserts, for smaller internal threads I use solid carbide tools; these are for 32tpi and 40tpi Whitworth (ME) threads:

When threading it is all about fit and never mind the theory. For screwcutting I know what the theoretical thread depth is and machine close to it, but always check with a mating part, especially if the internal thread has been formed with a tap. As an aside I always screwcut with the topslide set parallel to the lathe axis. Then depth of cut is simply read of the cross slide dial. I always take spring passes before checking fit and give the thread being cut a wipe first. Even a tiny amount of swarf can make it seem like the parts don’t fit properly.

If the mating part is commercial then all bets are off. In general commercial thread tolerances are quite loose and there is no guarantee that the part meets them anyway.

For non-standard threads I grind a HSS tool and screwcut.

Andrew

[Martin Connelly]

On Martin Connelly Said:

…

There was a huge queue of people switching on their phones or switching off airplane mode. Those of us with paper certificates just breezed past all those trying to find theirs on their phones.

Martin C

The opposite case is more common:  phone-waving and contactless gets one through turnstiles or on to buses much faster than messing with cash or paper.   Even though I am one, getting stuck in a queue of old-fashioned customers is very frustrating.  They’re so slow!

My pet-gripe with the railways is the overwhelming complexity of the ticket system.   When I first travelled by train, tickets were bought at the station, and pretty much cost what they cost.  All rather simple and predictable.   Unfortunately buying a straightforward ticket at the station is now the second most expensive way of buying a ticket, the worst being buying one on the train itself.   On the train, tickets are absolute top-price.   Now there are many alternatives.

So the customer has to play shops, looking for cheaper opportunities, of which there are many, many fly-by-night possibilities. Off-peak is fair enough,  but also necessary to search for offers made by the various different operators who may or may not be after your money, in advance, or on the day, depending on how the wind blows.

Considerable research is necessary: for example, travelling from Bristol to London, rather than buying a through ticket, it may be markedly cheaper to buy a ticket from Bristol to Reading, and another from Reading to Paddington.  Stay on the train. None of this is intuitive, and could be the other way round.   Recently, the cheapest way to travel first-class from Bristol to Paddington was to buy a through ticket from Bristol to Brussels, and not catch the Eurostar train.   Some people enjoy the challenge: personally, I like to keep it simple, and would much prefer a ticket system that didn’t waste my time.

These complicated opportunities have spawned a number of services whereby a website gets a cut for doing a basic automated search on behalf of baffled customers.  Their profits must add to travel costs.

Root cause I suggest was a botched privatisation.  In theory, competition forces providers to deliver cheaper services by finding efficiencies, and it can work.  In this case the way competition was created by putting boundaries between railway services fostered complexity, train travel hasn’t improved, and failed commercial providers still have to be rescued by the taxpayer.

Nationalisation isn’t a simple answer because that introduces a bunch of other problems.   Either way, the secret of success is getting the details right.  Political and economic ideas have to be backed up by competent delivery, which is hard.  In short, political ideas imposed on complex systems are doomed to fail unless some form of practical delivery can be engineered.  That requires continuity and expertise that politicians rarely have, though they often talk a good show.

Sooner or later the government will have to have another go at the railways; fingers crossed, results will be better next time.

Dave

[jaCK Hobson]

On jaCK Hobson Said:

You tube (and now, common sense) tells me knurling tools have a pitch and so work best on certain diameters. Small diameter changes might make a difference? I can’t knurl.

No doubt this will create a furore of comments, but here goes.

The “Mechanical and Metal Trades Handbook” by Europa Lehrmittel, list at the foot of page 92 a section on Knurl. Knurling is covered by DIN 82 (1973-01) and gives 5 different examples for which there are 3 different equations to find the correct diameter from which to start knurling to achieve the desired result. All formulae take into account the spacing of the Knurl

There are in this section 6 different standard DIN Knurl spacings. Clearly if the circumference of the work is not divisible by the spacing then there is going to be a miss-match.

Before anyone says this is a metal forming process I am aware of this. The problem is the stock size to start off with will become the pitch diameter of the Knurl. Thus it is this diameter that is needed to start with, not the crest diameter.

Once this point is mastered Knurling is no longer a nightmare, just another machining operation, (see above).

Regards

Gray,

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

If you need to take 16 mm work, you will need ER25 collets.

ER20 only got to 13 mm.

At least all the sizes use a 1.5mm pitch thread for the Clamp nut. These are available, (I get mine from Arc Euro Trade, since do not feel clever enough to make them.  A friend did, and it was a splendid job).

If you get the collets first, wrappoing emery around one, will allow you to “grind the internal taper of the adaptor to matcvhn the collets.

BUT, BE CAREFUL. Don’t force things. They grab very easily, and snatch out of your hand.

How would I know that?

Howard

[Bazyle]

On Bazyle Said:

however there must be some European ones – Germany surely.

They have MiM which I subscribe too and that has a fairly large spread of subjects. Same publisher VTH has quite a few titles along with books, plans service etc.

Repeats of old articles is more to do with available budget than not getting enough copy so commissioning articles would be even more costly as you would have to not only pay the person writing but provide them with that casting kit to build or that DRO to fit.

[von dutchParticipant @vondutch]

True about the collet nut,I’ve researched it to death getting hold of the original collets,think I found someone in Europe selling metric ones but only in limited sizes.Hence my thoughts to go with making an er adapter.I was considering using the motor as it’s good ol British stuff which normally seems to be made to last back then my meddings power saw is running on a vfd powering the original brook Compton motor(that is dual voltage)and runs really well.As an absolute last resort I’ll have to get a chop suey motor.

[Clive Brown 1Participant @clivebrown1]

I thought that unhardened centres were live centres, intended to be lightly machined “in-situ” in the headstock for good concentricity. My Boxford was supplied with both hard and soft MT2 centres. Carbide tipped centres are commercially available, eg ArcEuroTrade.

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

Harprit Sandhu’s ‘Spindles’ is good place to start, there’s discussion of the choices confronting the builder of a spindle, some pointers on ‘method’, as well as ‘words and music’ for a number of designs that can be built as presented or used as a basis for something incorporating your own ideas.

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Books/Spindles-WPS27

It’s clearly not the Treatise on the subject, but you will know more after you’ve read it than you did before, and in any case £7.21 won’t break the bank (and I daresay is a bit cheaper than the Quorn paperwork.).

Talking of ‘words & music’ I’m pretty sure that Lawrence Sparey published a drawing for a toolpost grinder in his ‘The Amateurs Lathe’, but IIRC it’s presented at a small scale and I think the ‘how to’ is very limited – however if you’ve already read Sandhu, you’ll be better placed to figure it out, and it’s a good design.

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

There is a little article on doing this on Arc Euros site under ‘projects’

We have been made aware by several customers that they are experiencing problems placing orders through our website.

After investigation, we have found the cause, and our service providers are working to resolve the technical issues.

At present it is difficult to say how long this will take, however, we will update this post once the matter is resolved.

In the mean time, we kindly request you to call us, and we will be happy to assist with your requirements. Our telephone lines are open Monday to Friday between 9am to 5pm. Please accept our apologies for the inconvenience.

Ketan at Arc.

 

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi Bo’sun, I’ve a set of these,

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Measurement/Parallels-Angle-Blocks-Test-Bars/Economy-Thin-Parallels-Set

Which are good for most of what I do, and I like them as they are not too long, and yes you can use springs etc. to keep them apart.

Regards Nick.

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

I don’t know if you could use Arc’s thin wavy parallels? The tallest is 23mm, see here:

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Measurement/Parallels-Angle-Blocks-Test-Bars/Precision-Wavy-Parallel-8pc-Metric-Set

Arc also have thin parallels, tallest is 20mm.

Thor

[Les RileyParticipant @lesriley75593]

Some 15 years ago I bought a Cincinatti Toolmaster turret mill. It had a fancy power feed system with rather special motors. One motor packed up and the replacement was about £1500.

I grafted in the largest available stepper motor from Mr Arc Euro Trade and made up a simple 555 timer pulse generator (circuit from the Brabani books). I made up two 6 way rotary switches with a matrix of resistors to give ABCDEF and 123456 so 36 different feeds. Plus “straight through” for rapid. It is still working fine.

The control panel featured in my article on Lasertrans in MEW, again some years ago.

Happy to give more details if required.

Les

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

..I don’t speak Italian either, but I’ve a suspicion that ‘controtesta per tornio‘ might translate as ‘tailstock’..?

Looks like the ‘Warco 220’ in GB = ‘Mashtroy C220’ in Europa

 

[Peter Cook 6Participant @petercook6]

I use Arc-Euro’s Sensitive Adapter in the mill, running as fast as possible. I also find these Carbide drills work well on brass if you can find an appropriate size.

[jaCK HobsonParticipant @jackhobson50760]

I was excited to open my package from ArcEuro containing new carbide 2mm stub 2 flute….. aaargh! The stub cutters have 3mm shank and I got a 6mm collet. Frustrating!

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

Hi Roger a blank arbor is in this case a 2MT shank with a solid lump at the front which you can do as you wish with, drill, thread or what ever. So looking at a couple of small die heads The shaft on the die head is 5/8″ so you would drill your arbor and put a locking screw through the side to fix the DH ! for 3″long you may have to drill down the centre of the arbor to allow the rod to pass. I think you will find blank arbors at Arc Euro Trade amonst others. Always found them very helpful and good prices/quality. Noel.

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

The blade holder from ArcEuro linked to in the second reply is a bit too versatile for its own good!

Its hard to tell from the website pictures but both the upper (the clamping wedge) and lower surfaces appear to have no ‘dovetail’ effect but look to be parallel to the toolholder base. It looks like the OPs blade is ground at the wrong end so the and the wedge clamp has pushed the (nominally, parallelogram shaped) blade downwards so the the blades lower edge is sitting flat against the lower seat.

I’m not sure how one parting tool holder can satisfactorily hold a range of blade widths and heights.

My experience with various single size blade holders is that even from new with the correct blade, the side clearance angles are not equal. I corrected an Eclipse holder by re-machining the holder underside at a very slight angle so that the blade stood exactly vertical giving equal side clearances. A Dickson holder also held the blade wrongly (no clearance on the the chuck facing surface of the blade) but as the whole block is hardened I resorted to gluing a 2mm wide strip of shim near the top of the blade recess (to cock the blade to the left slightly).

Blades used in the Dickson are not a parallelogram section, more accurately they should be described as a trapezoid.

I quite like the clamping wedge idea of the Arc offering but not keen on the rake being built in. I prefer to be able to extend/retract the blade to suit work diameter without having to change the cutter tip height.

Ian P

[gluhParticipant @gluh]

Thanks David; the holder & blade were bought at the same time from the same webpage, so not sure why it doesn’t “fit”.

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Lathe-Accessories/Tool-Posts/Model-100-Parting-Blade-Holder-2

I’ll ask them what type they suggest I use.