Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Robert Atkinson 2Participant @robertatkinson2]

I have one of the “Precision Tool Vices Type 2” from ARC Eurotrade on my SX2LP and am very happy with it. Note that you will need some means of clamping it down. Initially I used the clamp set while I made up some custom clamps. I made a pair of long bars to go in the T slot with tapped holes at the correct pitches rather tha separate T nuts.
On cutters, if cutting aluminium alloy get some un-coated ones.

Robert.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

You can get away with 5 or 6 collets to start with, If metrically minded then cutter shanks size sof 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 and possibly 16 will do to get started. Imperial would be 1/8,  1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and possibly 5/8.

Vice around the 80mm or 3″ wide jaw mark will not swamp the machine. I usually suggest the ARC versatile used without it’s swivel base

Clamps are handy to buy a set if you want to get on and use the machine for a specific purpose. Others seem to spend more time making tooling in which case use tee nuts and clamp bars as a way to get used to the machine.

Parallels can wait, a few pieces of bright rectangular Mild steel bar will do to start with.

Buy reasonable quality cutters as needed. I would suggest a 6mm and a 10mm 3-flute HSS to get you going

Then you can continue along the slippery slope of buying what you may need as it is needed.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Apologies for not being clearer in my description.

Most LED lamps are not designed to be dimmed, so should not be used for schecking the controller, only a filament lamp as a dummy load.

Good to hear that things are working again, but would be nice to know wha\t caused the excess current flows, in case it happens again, does damage next time..

If you can find that the machine is imported  by more than one source, it would be worth getting quotes from more than one.

It may be that the machine is imported in another paint sheme amd and another name by Arc Euro or Axminster, for instance.

It might be worth finding the number on the board, and searching for sources of supply.

Howard

[Dave Halford]

On Dave Halford Said:

On John Hinkley Said:

P.S. I’m not sure that Little Machine Shop will send to the UK, if that’s where you are, since the British Empire expelled Europe.  You might get stung for import tax and VAT as well.

There was a day when the US PO would send parcels reasonably priced to the UK. Those days finished long before Brexit was thought of.

When did the US join the EU anyway?

I hadn’t meant to imply that the USA was in the EU, but they did have a trade agreement with the EU which doesn’t apply any longer since Brexit, hence the import taxes etc.  At the time that I ordered the kit from the States, I was living in France, anyway, but that was nearly 20 years ago.

John

 

[John Hinkley]

On John Hinkley Said:

P.S. I’m not sure that Little Machine Shop will send to the UK, if that’s where you are, since the British Empire expelled Europe.  You might get stung for import tax and VAT as well.

There was a day when the US PO would send parcels reasonably priced to the UK. Those days finished long before Brexit was thought of.

When did the US join the EU anyway?

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Posted this on your other thread, just to be complete

If you want a new motor, talk to Arc Euro, but check which control board and motor. The C2 differs from the C3

HTH

Howard

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

If you want a new motor, talk to Arc Euro, but check which control board and motor. The C2 differs from the C3

HTH

Howard

[JasonB]

On JasonB Said:

If ARC’s are standard then a 25mm cutter only goes 10mm high. Probably need a 32mm. Not all online suppliers only give the dia.

Or if you want branded cutters try looking at the maker’s catalogues then buy on line, seems Dormer have the same sizes/heights ratios as ARC but list a 32mm as 12.5mm high page 175 of PDF

 

Hm, OK, I had better overshoot just in case. Thanks.

 

 

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

I heard a fascinating lecture by John Taylor some years ago.  He spoke a lot about his background including that his father ran a textile company in Derbyshire that got a contract to supply heated flying suits to the RAF for bomber flight crews at the start of WW2.  For some reason the company also made bimetal thermostats and had a novel design with a snap toggle action that made or broke the contact very quickly to minimise arcing.  Each suit had one thermostat.  They worked very well.  When the USA joined the war in Europe USAF bomber crews had their own suit design which had a non-snap action bimetal in each section, so at least 5 per suit.  When these broke the contact it took some time to fully open during which the contact arced, generating copious RFI.  So a crew of 6 in a bomber carried 30 RFI sources and German night fighters found that their radio d/f equipment easily allowed them to home in.  USAF losses were very high until they worked out it was actually safer to fly missions during the day.

The rest of the talk was mainly about clocks and I recall it was interesting but that’s the part that stuck with me!

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Have not experienced a similarv problem, but reading about those whom have, it might be that the Board mis damaged. Possibly the ouput chips?

I believe that the original board was up graded, and that US made boards were superior to Chinese ones

There used to be a chap who would repair boards for a lot less than the price of a replacement.

If you choose to buy a new board, do check which one you have. I believe that the C2 and C3 use different boards.  (Check the nSArc Euro webslite)  It would be a pity to spend a lot of money on a new board and then blow it because it is not the right one mfor the motor fitted.

Howard

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Welcome!

You’ll soon get back into it, like riding a bike.

You look to have plenty nof kit so should be able to take on a lot of jobs.

If you need any advice or help, someone will come forward.

Find a Model Engineering club near to you and join. This will bring you into face to face contact with like minded folk, and you will be able to help each other.

Your lathe is badges as a Clarke.  It is actually made by Sieg, and is imported, to UK, by at least three other companies.

You will find that Ketan and ian at Arc Euro very helpful, and they carry spares, and accessories, should you ned them.

Howard

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

If ARC’s are standard then a 25mm cutter only goes 10mm high. Probably need a 32mm. Not all online suppliers only give the dia.

Or if you want branded cutters try looking at the maker’s catalogues then buy on line, seems Dormer have the same sizes/heights ratios as ARC but list a 32mm as 12.5mm high page 175 of PDF

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I use either one of these (80mm) mostly on the SX2.7 and KX3CNC or this K4 on the X3 though mine came from Chronos . The ARC one has no measurable lift, a small amount on the K4 so needs knocking down.

1mm does sound rather excessive can you post a picture of your setup as there may be something obvious that is not right such as the piece of rod should be against the moving jaw.

[Matt TParticipant @mattt]

Hi Andy, very interesting video! My lathe is bolted down to my worktop which is in turn secured to the wall and floor. I must confess I’ve put little effort into levelling the lathe which I must do at some point.

Nevertheless, my belt has finally given this morning, drilling a 31/64ths hole in aluminium was the final straw however the damage was done mostly by previous parting attempts in steel. Thankfully arceurotrade stock the belt I need (I think). Planning to give the workshop a good clean down while I wait so I’ll probably shim the lathe properly when I’m putting everything back together.

I think given all the advice I’ll probably leave the bearings for now. I think others are right, even if they aren’t perfect, working on the carriage and cross slide rigidity is likely time and money better spent. I had thought to try the bearings first as they seemed the most beginner friendly upgrade but I’ll take a look at the carriage first. I’ve finally added a carriage lock which has been very useful upgrade.

[Charles LamontParticipant @charleslamont71117]

I don’t think load rating is the issue.

As I understand it, the point is that angular contact bearings will provide a stiffer spindle assembly allowing heavier cuts and reducing tendency to chatter. Not being familiar with the type of lathe in question I would have no opinion as to whether it has the general stiffness and power to take advantage of that.

A 6206 bearing is not an angular contact. The 7206 is, and is exactly the same size as a 6206.

Oh, and the instructions on the ARC Euro site, pointed to by Jason, appear to me to miss out step zero, removing the screws holding the front bearing cover!?

[AeroJet]

On AeroJet Said:

Hi,

don’t think they are specifically r8 or mt3. Ordered a set of plastic ones from machine mart spare dept for the cmd300.

however, when I have time, I want to convert the inner gearbox gears with metal ones.

ive taken a look at arc euro trade. They refer to the mill drill as the old x2.

they might do the job.

 

thanks for the info!

 

 

The Clarke CMD300 is an X2 made for Clarke by SIEG. ARC refer to it as the old X2, because ARC used to sell it about 5+ years ago. The X2 is a brushed motor gear drive mill. ARC replaced it with the newer SIEG SX2PG HiTorque Mill brushless motor belt drive machine.

The spares for the old X2 are available from ARC here – link

NOTES:

– Changing the gears to metal gears will make your mill more noisy

– The plastic gears are sacrificial, designed to break under abnormal use/abuse. If you do decide to change to metal gears, understand the limitations of your machine and your ability. If you are unsure of your own limitations/ability, it is good to have at least one sacrificial plastic gear e.g. X2 Mini-Mill small High/Low transmission gear 12T/20T. In case of damage, it is cheaper to replace this, rather than motor or circuit board, which are more likely to damage with an all metal gear assembly, in case of an overload event/failure.

– The SIEG SX2PG HiTorque Mill brushless motor mill is a belt drive and it does not use any high/low gears.

Ketan at ARC

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

All you wanted to know about this popular upgrade here

ARC will also sell you the bearing that are of a suitable known quality

[AeroJetParticipant @aerojet]

Hi,

don’t think they are specifically r8 or mt3. Ordered a set of plastic ones from machine mart spare dept for the cmd300.

however, when I have time, I want to convert the inner gearbox gears with metal ones.

ive taken a look at arc euro trade. They refer to the mill drill as the old x2.

they might do the job.

 

thanks for the info!

 

 

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

I converted my X2 mill to belt drive.

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/reviews/MEW201_p52_58_X2_Mill.pdf

[Dave HalfordParticipant @davehalford22513]

Are the plastic replacement gears listed r8 or mt3?

This is I believe a Seig x2, if so Arc Euro Trade will know the answer

[Norman BillinghamParticipant @normanbillingham91454]

I have a Warco VMC with an R8 ER32 chuck which I bought from them with the mill. The solution to the lack of a spindle lock was to buy a ball bearing collet closing nut (from Arc Euro). With that, just holding the belt pulley allows me to get the collet as tight as I’ve ever needed it to be.

[Ex contributorParticipant @mgnbuk]

Arc Eurotrade have an R8 / RE40 collet chuck here

7/16 UNK drawbar thread & the pictured item appears to have flats on the body + includes a C spanner for the nut. £52.38 inc Vat plus carriage.

Only had decent stuff from Arc.

I have only use direct mounting R8 collets on Bridgeports / Bridgeport clones. Minimises the amount of projection from the spindle bearings by eliminating the extra length of a collet chuck.

Nigel B

[DC31k]

On DC31k Said:

Cutwel Pro chuck has no flats.

ArcEuroTrade chuck has no flats.

APT one does has flats and is very well priced:

https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/r8-er-collet-chucks/r8-er40-collet-chuck-for-er40-collets-72mm-gauge-length.html

Their prices are good – a 12000 rpm balanced chuck for under £20.

7 in stock no more available.

That’s a last time buy dump price so move quickly.

[DC31kParticipant @dc31k]

Cutwel Pro chuck has no flats.

ArcEuroTrade chuck has no flats.

APT one does has flats and is very well priced:

https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/r8-er-collet-chucks/r8-er40-collet-chuck-for-er40-collets-72mm-gauge-length.html

Their prices are good – a 12000 rpm balanced chuck for under £20.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Removal entails brutality, but since they are now useless, that doesn’t matter.

Tapered woodscrew, lever out with a small screwdriver, wriggle out with a tap, even an Easyout!

Quality, they will probably all be much of a muchness.

When I needed a replacement, I went to WARCO, (Got 6, although have only used two, so far), but Arc Euro offer them.

Thery seem to be for 6mm holes, but come with two sizes of ball, (Judged by my machine) so you have a choice

HTH

Howard