When I use the chain drilling technique with a bit of overlap between holes so the blank falls out I go round twice drilling every alternator hole. That way the first set of holes are made with the drill fully supported in its hole and the second set have two small gaps directly opposite where the drill is unsupported cutting air.
I figure that is a more stable set-up if your spacing is a tadge out or the workshop gremlins get involved. If there is only a gap on one side the drill will tend to run towards it potentially making a mess of the job.
As ever material and tool condition play a major part in deciding whether something a bit less than optimal still works well enough. Free cutting material making nice small chips with a blower to guarantee extraction.
No problem.
Gummy aluminium pulling out long strings that just won’t break and an un evenly sharpened rill with one edge cutting better than the other.
Be prepared for problems.
Found the gummy aluminium issue the hard way by breaking a drill. Careful examination of the drill remnants showed the very tip of one flute to be a bit blunt. Presumably this overheated the aluminium just there which promptly grabbed it forming a classic built up edge with about 1/2″ of chip securely mated to the drill behind it. Jamming was inevitable.
Ever since I’ve always made sure the drill is really well sharpened and that i have both chip evacuation along with lubrication if needed properly set-up.
As the hole has to be cleaned up with a milling cutter anyway I do wonder whether trepanning with the modern breed of high speed carbide cutters would be just as quick overall. Especially if you have CNC. A while back I had to groove the faces of a couple car engine flywheels to accept a different clutch for an engine swop and was impressed by how well and quickly an ordinary, but brand new, YG cutter did the deed. Maybe I’ll try it that way next time.
Clive