Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Mike DonnerstagParticipant @mikedonnerstag]

Apologies for the very late reply! I read all of the comments (many thanks to all) and realised I had neglected to say that the slot I was milling was fully enclosed, necessitating plunging. It was the plunge that gave me trouble, resulting in the head shaking (both the milling machine's head and mine!)

I stripped and reassembled the head and column using the ArcEuro Sieg SX3 dismantling and reassembly guide, ensuring everything was lubricated, adjusted and working as it should… though to no avail.

Since then, I since found a similar post: https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=145271&p=2, describing the same problem but with a Warco mill of a similar size. I conclude the following from the thread:

• The HSS 2-flute bit (from a cheap set) I was using was probably asymmetrically ground, resulting in the violent vibration/shaking
• Plunging using the Z-axis with the quill locked may have worked if I had used a better 2-flute bit. Alternatively I could have plunged with a 3 or 4-flute bit or drill bit and switched to a 2-flute milling bit for slotting
• Ramp cutting (lowering Z-axis and X-axis at the same time) would have worked better
• Locking the head and feeding using the quill would have been better (as ArcEuro recommend) – this was the method I used in the end

Let me know if anyone has any comments on this. I realise that a sturdier, commercial mill would be more forgiving!

Many thanks and Happy 2022 to everyone.

Mike

[Andy StopfordParticipant @andystopford50521]

I fitted one of these:

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Lathe-Accessories/Tool-Posts/Model-000-Quick-Change-Tool-Post-Set

The Warco has a spigot projecting from the top of the compound slide which fits into a matching rebate in the supplied 4 way toolpost. I believe some people just remove this to fit a QCTP, but I made a 7.5mm thick spacer instead. This thickness maximises the range of tool heights that can be used. I also had to make a new centre stud.

The Model 100 might be a more appropriate size, but I already had the 000 and a load of toolholders, and I don't know whether the 100 could be bored out to accomodate the spigot.

[John Smith 47Participant @johnsmith47]

Posted by JasonB on 05/01/2022 10:14:39:

And any non genuine one could just read the address at bottom of homepage or get it in larger print by clicking "contact" at the top of the home page.

Even if it's £30 that is not bad as you get 3 usable gauges for the £10 each which is better the £18 for a single Starret

Edited By JasonB on 05/01/2022 10:16:20

My apologies. You are of course correct. I had just come from a .co.uk website that turned out to be despatching from China(!), and I was also distracted by the Euro part of the ArcEurotrade, but mostly I mis-read their message.

Beyond that, to minimise any further duplication, please see the other thread for my response.

What I will put into this thread is a couple of photos of my new toy.

After zeroing, at full extension it looks like this:

And you will be please to know that after x10 full-scale openings & closings, it has returned to looking like this:

Quite dinky. Nice piece of kit.

JasonB – All reasonable points, however I reserve my right to stick to my budget of £15, in case none of them turn out to be particularly useful to me personally. 

Edited By John Smith 47 on 05/01/2022 11:23:39

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 05/01/2022 10:32:19:

As an aside, I wondered what differences there might be between the Starrett gauge and the ArcEuro offerings.

This ArcEuro example is a tidied up stamping I think […]

Dave

.

Dave

May I suggest that you look at the ARC product which Jason linked on the other thread

MichaelG.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

As an aside, I wondered what differences there might be between the Starrett gauge and the ArcEuro offerings.

This ArcEuro example is a tidied up stamping I think, probably made from an ordinary carbon tool-steel (hard but not rust-proof.)

The minimum radius is 1mm and there's only one form per gauge. The tool isn't particularly robust, and the radii might not be particularly accurate. (No surprise if the 7mm male leaf didn't exactly match the 7mm female leaf at all points.)

In contrast, the Starratt gauge is much more solid, goes down below R1.0mm and each has 5 radii on a handy 'L'. Though Starratt don't specify it's accuracy, I suspect the gauge is precision ground: the radii are all very similar, the edges are reliably straight, and the right angles are gauge close to 90°. I expect it's made of the hard long-lasting stainless steel used to make knives, and would resist wear and corrosion.

Of the two, the ArcEuro is exactly the sort of 'good enough' tool I'd buy if I needed a radius gauge for ordinary purposes. I'd need a special reason to cough up for a Starrett, but wouldn't hesitate to find the money it was really required.

Dave

[John Smith 47Participant @johnsmith47]

Posted by John C on 05/01/2022 10:08:22:

Quote: 'because ARC Eurotrade appears to be based on continental Europe'…

This Arc EuroTrade? The one in Leicester, UK?:

Arc Euro Trade Ltd.
A company registered in England and Wales
Company registration number 5060731

10 Archdale Street
Syston
Leicester, LE7 1NA

The text you quote re entry charges refers to Arc posting goods to outside the UK……..

OK that IS embarrassing. I miss-read the direction of travel in their 01Jan message.
I am new to this game. Don't shoot me.
 

Edited By John Smith 47 on 05/01/2022 10:28:10

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Oh Dear you have not found your way around yet another website, why not look at ARC's Address at the bottom of their home page or click the contact tab at the top they are closer than you think.

[John CParticipant @johnc47954]

Quote: 'because ARC Eurotrade appears to be based on continental Europe'…

This Arc EuroTrade? The one in Leicester, UK?:

Arc Euro Trade Ltd.
A company registered in England and Wales
Company registration number 5060731

10 Archdale Street
Syston
Leicester, LE7 1NA

The text you quote re entry charges refers to Arc posting goods to outside the UK……..

[John Smith 47Participant @johnsmith47]

Posted by Andrew Johnston on 05/01/2022 09:48:12:

Posted by John Smith 47 on 05/01/2022 09:33:04:

For these reasons I no longer buy ANYTHING from continental Europe.

Any genuine modeller/engineer would know that ARC is based in the UK. Nuf sed!

Andrew

OK that IS embarrassing. I am new to this game. Don't shoot me.

[John Smith 47Participant @johnsmith47]

JasonB & MichaelG.

Yes the smallest 3 Imperial gauges would be usable [Aside: how irritating that the the metric range don't go smaller – GRRR]

But as I said in the other thread… [see https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=176298&p=5 **LINK** ]

…the crunch problem isn't just that £30.11 already blows my £15 budget out of the water, but on top of that, because ARC Eurotrade appears to be based on continental Europe, and since 01 Jan this year, this now means that we will be changed:

"On arrival of the parcel in your country, the postal service or courier will contact you to ask you to pay the import entry charge (usually between £6.00 to £15.00 equivalent in Euros), plus Duty (for goods above a certain value)… "

Plus distance of travel delays, plus customs delays…

For these reasons, already having been stung badly a couple of times, I no longer buy anything from Europe, EVER if there are any other alternatives.

Let's not get into politics, but Brexit is an extremely serious problem ​​​​​​for certain activities. ​

JasonB – Yup, I'm right behind you about fair remuneration for innovators. [deep sigh!]

Nicholas – Yes I am more than happy to pay for a well-made, useful piece of kit, and happy to pay rather over the odds for it, if it is innovative as well. But with the greatest respect, please can we just discuss my simple original question at the top of this thread?  

Conclusion:
Can anyone find something similar that (as per my original question) is UK-based?
I have looked quite hard but found nothing.
 

Edited By John Smith 47 on 05/01/2022 10:02:48

[Anonymous]

Posted by John Smith 47 on 05/01/2022 09:33:04:

For these reasons I no longer buy ANYTHING from continental Europe.

Any genuine modeller/engineer would know that ARC is based in the UK. Nuf sed!

Andrew

[John Smith 47Participant @johnsmith47]

@JasonB – thanks.

Yes I did see that offering at ARC Eurotrade.

It's possibly worth a thought, although the set costs £30.11 PLUS …

[Did you read the "New customs rules and charges for shipments to the EU from 1st January 2021" ?]

"On arrival of the parcel in your country, the postal service or courier will contact you to ask you to pay the import entry charge (usually between £6.00 to £15.00 equivalent in Euros), plus Duty (for goods above a certain value)… "

For these reasons I no longer buy ANYTHING from continental Europe.

I don't want to get into a political discussion, Brexit really is a disaster for certain activities.

J
 

Edited By John Smith 47 on 05/01/2022 09:33:23

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I just remembered that out good friends at ARC sell similar "L" shaped gauge sets. Metric set goes down to 0.5mm but the imperial one may be of more use as that gives 0.010", 0.015" and 0.020 (approx 0.25mm, 0.38mm and 0.5mm) so would cover a few of your smaller radii and not a bad price compered with a Starret set link

[Clive FarrarParticipant @clivefarrar90441]

I did the exact same conversion as shown in JH post and from the same source.

It is not too difficult to do and has been very reliable and quiet ever since.

It was noisy as hell on the gears and as i was a true novice when starting with mine it did not take to long to get overambitious and frag the gears.

FWIW when i did mine I took the opportunity to change the bearing for taper rollers. Its exactly the same type and conversion as used on the mini lathe. I think it will be in the same group.io mentioned above , if not look at the ARC Eurotrade site for their article on the same.

It pays to do the bearing first so that you can triple check the dimensions and adapt the original design dimensions if required.

Good luck.

Clive

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

I normally have an ER25 collet chuck installed in the mill and put up with constant swapping of collets when I need to do a bit of drilling. I recently had a project which involved a fair number of tapped holes and the thought of changing collets for the spotting drill, then the tapping size drill and finally the tap made my wrists hurt just thinking about it – so I treated myself to a keyless chuck and arbor from Ketan's Tool Emporium. It seems to be well made and accurate in use. Unlike my work! Not silly cheap but not outrageously expensive, either. I'm well pleased with it.

John

[SteviegtrParticipant @steviegtr]

I have a Albrecht from a friend at car booty for £10. My go to & great for all jobs. But they do come loose if you try back out a tight tap. I also bought a Chinesium version which is pretty accurate. I can also vouch for the arceuro arbors. Had a few & all have been spot on.

Steve.

[Mark RandParticipant @markrand96270]

Popping up the M1 from Rugby to visit Arceurotrade this morning I saw and heard a Norton Commando belting up the overtaking lane. Definitely enjoyed that. Though the rider might not have been enjoying it quite so much, since it was a bit damp today.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

If you want to convert the Cross and Top Slide to Metric, Arc Euro used to do a hit with all the parts (Dials, Leadscrews, Slide ) for about £50

My Chester Conquest mini (With DRO on Cross and Top slides from new ) appears to have 10 tpi leadscrews there, but a 1.5 mm pitch main Leadscrew. The DROs allow you to change the readout from Imperial to Metric, at the touch of a button.

It is well worth doing as others have said and measuring the travel over 10 or 20 turns, but take up the backlash first. You will always have some backlash because of clearances.

We all live with backlash, even on a brand new machine..

You may well find it a help to read some books on the mini lathe.You will find a set of Zeus Charts to be a useful reference. I still use mine, bought in 1958, almost every time that I go into the workshop.

Stan Bray (The founding Editor of MEW ) has written a book on basic lathe work ).

Harold Hall, another former Editor, has written a book on Lathework.

Dave Fenner (Anothger former Editor ) and Neil Wyatt (Current M E W Editor ) have both written books on the mini lathe.

Such books will answer your questions, almost before you feel the need to ask them

Also, if you are a newcomer, do not expect a 3 jaw chuck to hold work absolutely concentric. A good one is unlikely to be better than 0.003". And the figure will differ according the diameter being held

If you want work to be absolutely concentric, you need a 4 jaw independent chuck, a Magnetic Base and a Dial Test Indicator. The concentricity is then whatever you are prepared to set, or to accept.

Such a chuck is invaluable when machining square or irregular work., or if you wish to machine a bore eccentric, deliberately.

Find a Model Engineering Club near to you and join. You will learn a lot from fellow members.

Finally, learn, and make your mistakes, and how to rectify them, on relatively cheap material, rather than on an expensive casting from a kit!

You can learn a lot by by making simple workshop tools. You gain experience, and confidence, and the tools will be useful for years to come.

Remember the advice to "Measure twice; cut once"

Howard

Edited By Howard Lewis on 29/12/2021 19:19:19

[Rob AthomeParticipant @robathome64479]

Wow, super response to my posting, thank you all very much. Plenty of ideas there. I have just found a stash of 1/16" parting blades ( ARC Euro ) that I got a while back. I may start by seeing how those will reduce down on the grinder or even in the mill with a carbide cutter.

Seasons Greetings to all.

Rob

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Thanks, Andrew

I would assume that the two black wires are connected to a built-in switch

… a few seconds with a multimeter should confirm.

MichaelG.

.

Edit: __ or a look here: 

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C0-Lathe-Spares/C0-66-Potentiometer-WH24-2-Z4k7

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 24/12/2021 10:32:39

[Bill PudneyParticipant @billpudney37759]

My Sieg C3 7" x 16" mini lathe is probably 15 years old. It has a metric leadscrew and two half nuts. The threading dial was removed in the first week or close to it. The machine has cut a lot of threads, the half nuts do require adjusting fairly often….maybe annually. Cleaning the leadscrew is a simple matter, usually done at the end of the day as part of the clean down procedure. Most of the things I make are fairly small, so the leadscrew generally only gets used for screwcutting

I believe that the new machines have a sheet metal leadscrew cover not the telescoping spring one as suggested earlier, along with the single halfnut. If the machine was mine I would get a 2 halfnut conversion kit from Arc Euro, ditch the silly shield, and set up the halfnuts carefully and remember to clean the leadscrew occasionally.

cheers

Bill

p.s. I've just had a look at the Arc Euro site and the kits are available for metric or imperial machines their part number SC3-63B-MET or IMP, for under GBP30.  Sounds like a bargain to me.

Edited By Bill Pudney on 22/12/2021 05:01:54

[RobCoxParticipant @robcox]

I removed the swarf guard and fitted a replacement pair of half nuts (from arceurotrade if I remember correctly). I wasn't that happy with the off the shelf threading dial so I made my own complete with all of the gears needed for the various metric pitches. Having got use to the threading dial, I'd hate to be without it. It makes screwcutting quicker (and for me) more enjoyable.

Wear on the leadscrew hasn't been an issue… I upgraded to a bigger lathe and the mini lathe has been sat on a bench in the garage ever since, unused and unloved😥

[BazParticipant @baz89810]

I would have recommended JB Cutting tools but I note that they have decided to stop trading until the spring so I would look at Glanze tools stocked by Chronos and also look at what ARC Eurotrade have to offer.

[BazParticipant @baz89810]

Posted by Bill Phinn on 14/12/2021 13:10:41:

There is a 100mm-long twenty-pair set floating around out there. Arceurotrade and Amadeal among others sell, or at least sold, them. They may not necessarily be of the same quality at different suppliers.

They were the only set I used for a while, and often I obtained the height I wanted by doubling up parallels. As long as you seat the parallels and work carefully, I can't see any reason why placing parallels on top of one another to obtain a target height should be regarded as bad practice. One good feature of the set is the variation in thickness – something that, inexplicably, isn't very common with sets of parallels.

The spec. of the 20 pair set is as follows:

2mm width (5, 10, 15 & 20mm height)

3mm width (6, 11, 16 & 21mm height)

4mm width (7, 12, 17 & 22mm height)

5mm width ( 8, 13, 18 & 23mm height)

6mm width (9, 14, 19 & 24mm height)

Warco are selling a set like this, see my earlier post, at about £75

[steamdaveParticipant @steamdave]

Posted by Nigel Graham 2 on 13/12/2021 19:31:16:

It looks as if you've rather decided!

Wabeco has been advertising in ME for some years now, and though I have not seen the name mentioned by users, would think that longevity must be in their favour.

Warco usually has a good name, but I have not seen the threads you mean. Possibly some people have had unhappy experiences with their own examples but generally they are popular machine-tools, suggesting the Warco company itself is normally on top of the quality-control.

I would suggest that using the mass as a factor should be in conjunction with the volume. You do not want a lathe that is fairly light-weight because it is not very robust for its capacity.

I have a Wabeco milling machine. I bought it in favour of a far eastern equivalent because of where I live and I liked the idea of a 5 year warranty and 'German' quality. It was nearly 3 times the cost of the equivalent far eastern machine.

My machine was made in the far east and finished / checked in Germany. It was about 2 weeks over the 5 year warranty period when the European built-in inverter blew up. The UK supplier of Wabeco tools wanted £1000 for a new motor/inverter combo. What I did was buy a separate inverter for 25% of the price and wired it into the original motor. Still going strong.

Moral of the story: Just because it is labelled as 'Made in Germany', or wherever and there is a long warranty period doesn't make the tool any better than a far eastern machine.

Dave
The Emerald Isle