Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Bill PhinnParticipant @billphinn90025]

There is a 100mm-long twenty-pair set floating around out there. Arceurotrade and Amadeal among others sell, or at least sold, them. They may not necessarily be of the same quality at different suppliers.

They were the only set I used for a while, and often I obtained the height I wanted by doubling up parallels. As long as you seat the parallels and work carefully, I can't see any reason why placing parallels on top of one another to obtain a target height should be regarded as bad practice. One good feature of the set is the variation in thickness – something that, inexplicably, isn't very common with sets of parallels.

The spec. of the 20 pair set is as follows:

2mm width (5, 10, 15 & 20mm height)

3mm width (6, 11, 16 & 21mm height)

4mm width (7, 12, 17 & 22mm height)

5mm width ( 8, 13, 18 & 23mm height)

6mm width (9, 14, 19 & 24mm height)

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

I think those that Arceuro sell are metric, but should suit jaws that are metric high.🙂

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I have several vices collected over time some with taller jaws than others so get to use most of my 1/2" to 2" set, I also regularly use the taller ones for packing up work mounted directly on the mill table or lathe cross slide so although the bigger ones may not get used so often they can be useful to have.

The 80mm versatile that I use on the CNC has the shortest jaws and I just keep one of the economy sets by that which do for most jobs and save having to fetch the main set from the other workshop, only ground on the two edges but that's all you use.

If your vice is reasonably small as the 29mm jaw height suggests you are mostly going to be working on smaller parts so I would suggest the thinner of the two as you will find with a thick parallel in place you can't close the jaws down on it unless additional side packing is added. The wavy parallels are good in this respect as you can squash them right down to almost nothing.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Given your location I would have thought one of the mainland European countries selling the similar lathes to Warco under their own brand name would be a better option, have you looked at Optimum in Germany?

Your budget only just stretches to the D2000 Wabeco with it's round rod bed, if you can afford it the extra rigidity and distance between centres of the 4000 or 6000 lathes would be better. Also consider that but the time you have included the cost of a faceplate, 4-jaw chuck and fixed steady all of which will be priced pro rata to the lathes you will be spending maybe another 1000Euro compared to the Warco types which include these items.

[Dom KabasParticipant @domkabas73192]

Hi,

not actually buying a lathe "again", it's more about the name of the thread that's been popular here. Read the majority. And still I find the information and the market is changing quite rapidly.

I'm in the market for a new lathe. Considering finding European made, not an import one. Also want a new one, don't have skills to refurbish nor to tell how good or bad the used classic example would be. Love Myfords, though. 100-150 kg, metric 3-5 k EUR. Don't want to add more features as options are limited anyways. And I reserve some budget for the tools too.

What would my options be, please?

Wabeco is in under my radar, love their 5 years warranty and they're made in Germany.

Warco is concerning for me after reading threads in this forum, plus it's Asia made and only 12 months warranty.

Emco, Cazeneuve are far off with what they refer to their basic model and respectively the budget. Similarly the lightest one from ZMM is over 700kg.

Any advices please?

[Robert Atkinson 2Participant @robertatkinson2]

I bought one of ARC Eurotrade's lower cost ones and am very pleased with it.

Robert G8RPI.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Pete Rimmer on 11/12/2021 12:01:30:

If the collets are ER type you have to load the collet into the nut before you put them into the chuck. The face of the collet should sit at or very close to the face of the nut. If it doesn't, you probably don't have the collet fitted correctly.

+1, well worth double checking.

Not clicking ER collets into the chuck properly is a common beginner booby trap. How to do it isn't immediately obvious. You can guess how I know. Click on this ArcEuroTrade link for pictures and description.

Fingers crossed that's the problem – easy fix.

Dave

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

Welcome, Paul,

I think that you might find it difficult to encourage someone to give you lessons as such, in the current pandemic situation. Like you, I'm not a trained engineer, but self-taught mangler of metal. There's a lot to be said for getting some good books and doing a bit of reading before switching on any machine and there's no better substitute than making something simple on the lathe and getting to know its (and your) capabilities, even if it's only a pile of swarf. Just remember to keep your body parts and anything attached to them out of the way of the whizzy-round bits!

Good luck with your machines and the Ariel restoration. I'm sure many on here, me included, would be interested to follow the rebuild.

John

Some suggested books:

L. H. Sparey – The Amateur's Lathe

Ian Bradley – The Amateur's Workshop

Harold Hall Various books in the Workshop Practice series

And of course both Neil Wyatt and Jason Bellamy have produced books on the basics of lathework and Milling machine operations respectively available from ArcEuroTrade.

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Maarten,

Weldon shaft will fit the ESX collets. I use both end-mills and slot-drills, I also have a few 3-flute and a couple of ball type, they don't get used often. Have a look here, they stock cutters made to cut Aluminium (and its alloys), and both HSS and carbide.

Thor

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

That sounds rather terminal!

Sounds like you need to talk to Ketan about a replacement board!

Take a look on the Arc Euro website for prices and availability.

Howard

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Chris Mate on 06/12/2021 13:34:37:

-Adaptors Sleeves/Morse Taper=Open Sleeve with Release Nut.
I am also looking at this, however what this exactly is and how it fits or replace the MT4 for ER32 I am not sure about yet. They said I may be able to get this but its not something they stock.

If somebody can explain what excactly this part is, meaning if I buy it will it be fitted with an ER32 chuck on an MT4 arbor, but with the nut(16mm) added, and just work-?

…

Do you mean one of these, as sold by ArcEuro?

If so, it's no good to you. It's a reducer – a big MT taper on the outside, with a smaller MT taper inside. For example, a reducer with an MT4 outer an MT2 inner allows MT2 tooling to be plugged into an MT4 spindle. The MT2 tooling is secured and released in the usual way with a drawbar. The Release Nut pulls the reducer out.

What exactly is the problem you're trying to solve? MT works quite well. Three reasons why it might be difficult to eject an MT taper:

• The drawbar was overtightened by the operator. (Some chaps can't resist heaving on spanners and then whacking them extra tight with a hammer. Don't! ) I find hand-tight plus a 1/3 turn about right. Experiment to find out what works on your machine. It's a balance – enough tension to stop the taper slipping during a cut, but not enough to wedge the taper so tight a short sharp tap on the drawbar undone 5 or 6 turns won't release it. Note 'short sharp' – never pound on a drawbar!
• An accidental super-tight shrink fit was created by inserting a below room temperature male into a hot female spindle and allowing the pair to cool. Avoid by warming the male before insertion or letting the mill cool down. To release a shrink fit it may be necessary to quickly warm the spindle with a gentle flame before applying a sharp tap, or wedges.
• The tapers corroded together or are glued together by ancient oil turned into varnish. Dribble penetrating oil down the drawbar and leave overnight, if that doesn't work warm the spindle and/or wedge as above. Several heat cycles may be necessary. Avoid by sensible maintenance – don't leave taper tools stuck together for a long time.

In my experience appropriately tightened clean tapers release without bother. The sharp tap needed doesn't worry me: in theory it might damage the bearings, in practice it doesn't. (Pounding on jambed tapers is a different story.)

As per NDIY I use an MT / ER32 collet chuck most of the time on my mill, occasionally swapping it for a fly-cutter, boring head, drill chuck or circular saw. None of them slip or refuse to release and not much violence is needed.

Copper headed hammers are recommended for applying the sharp tap but I use an ordinary hammer with a home-made aluminium disc on a handle interposed to protect the drawbar head.

MT is the original quick release system. It's still popular after well over a century. There are better quick release systems, but I suggest MT is fine for amateur purposes. I don't feel any need to modify it on an 1100W mill.

Dave

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

Chris,

If you mean THIS EXAMPLE then, no, it won't do what you want. You would need to get a sleeve to reduce your MT4 to MT3 or 2 then fit an ER32 collet chuck with matching MT into that. You would still be stuck with how to remove the sleeve. You would be far better off, in my opinion, to obtain an ER32 collet chuck on an MT4 taper shank. Like this:

Then you're back to square one with the extraction problem! Though it shouldn't be a problem if you do it correctly.

Easy for me to say, he said smugly, as an R8 user!

John

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Is it something like THIS ?

If so, there are options to extract from the end of the spindle.

1. A pair of suitably sized wedges – I use these whenever possible if the MT is tight.

2. Thread the end of the ER, extend the spanner flats and use a suitable nut to jack out the arbor (much like some Clarkson collet holders?). A bit like THIS

[Mike DonnerstagParticipant @mikedonnerstag]

Apologies for hijacking the thread, though it is relevant. Especially when it's the Warco 10% off weekend!

I have a Sieg SX3 mill and wondered:

1) Is a 6" rotary table recommended or would you recommend a 4"

2) How does the Warco HV6 (Vertex style?) rotary table compare to the equivalent ArcEuro one, which is significantly more expensive? JasonB – I understand you use the ArcEuro one

3) Would the hole spacings allow the HV6 to be mounted vertically on the SX3? (Does anyone have the minimum and maximum hole centres for vertical mounting?)

Many thanks,

Mike

Edited By Mike Donnerstag on 04/12/2021 21:32:49

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Industry use a bewildering variety of inserts for reasons rarely explained in the catalogues. It's very confusing.

You might find it easier to start with inserts from the range sold by ArcEuro, as these are generally suitable for most hobby purposes. (Other suppliers available)

Tip: Slower / less powerful machines designed for HSS may cut steel better with the sharp inserts made for non-ferrous metals.

Opinion is split on insert holder sets. Some will tell you sets waste money because they include rarely used holders. I think sets are good for learners because finding out how different cutters behave is educational. If you know what you're doing, no need for sets, but they're helpful starting out. One problem is sets don't always identify the holder type or insert code, which makes buying spares exciting. Ask on the forum if you get caught by that – someone will know.

Dave

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

I have digital 25mm/1” mitutoyo which was purchased second hand, years ago. Discarded due to a small chip on one anvil, l think.

It only gets used when I really need precise measurements. So I purchased a 25-50mm/1-2” digi from Arceuro. While not quite in the same league as the mitty, it does a good job (bought for measuring engine parts, mostly), but is now used like the mitty – reserved for precision jobs.

My mitty depth gauge, likewise, is kept safe in the house.

They are all better than my machining skills, but will be more use when I get more practice with the surface grinder.

I now always buy measuring kit which will reliably measure to a tenth of my machining capability.

While they need batteries, they are easier to read than a vernier device – a sure sign of getting old, I think!  Easy to measure in either metric or imperial, too.

Edited By not done it yet on 30/11/2021 22:12:53

[brickyParticipant @bricky]

Hi James I too have had a problem on my SX3 and was not sure on the dismantling to get at the problem.I phoned Arc Euro Trade for advice and on their website is a full guide on dismantling and reassembly,I managed it easily and if I can most competant people can.I just oil my leadscrew from an oil can,I use hydraulic oil.

Frank

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

Posted by Mark Rand on 29/11/2021 09:13:34:

Trouble is that no one seems to make coarse files any more. Even bastard files are less common than they could be.

ARC Eurotrade have Bastard files as well as smooth. Made I believe in Portugal by traditional methods, I have found them very satisfactory.

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

Posted by Pete 26/11/2021

Have a look at the thread I started on 'Arc Euro Type 2 vices' someone linked some similar vices on sale at a good price, not sure if if they're still on offer though.

———————————–

They still are, on MSC Advantage December as QGVMP 85220J @ £31.99 and QGVMP 85320K @ £41.99 .

John

[Pete.Participant @pete-2]

The Type 3 is more of a drilling machine style vice, the Type 2 is probably more suitable for a milling machine, I think even the 80mm versatile would look clownishly big on that small machine, maybe a 70mm Type 2.

Have a look at the thread I started on 'Arc Euro Type 2 vices' someone linked some similar vices on sale at a good price, not sure if if they're still on offer though.

[Thomas Gregory 1Participant @thomasgregory1]

Links to said items

73mm Precision 3

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Machine-Vices/Precision-Tool-Vices-Type-3

80mm Versatile

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Machine-Vices/ARC-Versatile-Milling-Vices-with-swivel-base

From what I gather you remove the swivel base and stick it on the shelf.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Morse taper blank end arbors are available (Arceurotrade from just over a fiver?). These are accurately ground to size and sold for making items such as you are proposing. Morse tapers need to be precise (fitted using engineers blue) preferably with a hard ground surface. I don’t make Morse tapers ‘cos they are cheap and accurate – I always try to keep a couple in stock for making arbors as and when required (otherwise shipping adds to the cost).

I have one commercial Morse taper (my last ever purchase from ‘ban good’ for anything that must not be a substandard item). It would have destroyed anything that was associated with it, if used.

Ajax might well say it is easy. But it does require a bit of expertise when setting the taper angle, so not recommended (by me) for a beginner.

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Thanks for the responses. The ArcEuro one would be perfect but alas has a 12.7mm shank but my max ER collet is 10mm. I do have a 12mm BT30 collet but that's still too small. Oh well, out with the drilles and reamers and make one I think.

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

Hi John,

I believe that Arceuro sell them.

For another John!

[Nick Clarke 3Participant @nickclarke3]

I only have small machines but while the supplier of one (Arc Euro) told me they specified the use of a tail lift delivery lorry, it came on one without – leaving the driver and I to struggle, so my advice will be to sort this in detail beforehand.

Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 22/11/2021 10:28:58