Search Results for 'arc euro'

[An OtherParticipant @another21905]

Hi, DutchDan,

Sorry about the delay, the thread dropped off the bottom of the list, and I only just found it.

I got my brake from a company in Germany: (full URL in case you have problems)

**LINK**

This is the one I used:

DC Electromagnetic Brake 24V 2.0Nm(283oz.in) for Nema 23 & 24 Stepper Motor

I think its the first one on the page link above.

This is the 'Brake' page, but they do all sort of stepper and servo related stuff (look under 'Products'. I'm sorry, I don't know what the cost to UK will be – I live in Eastern Europe, and delivery was in a couple of days by DHL from Germany.

I mentioned in an earlier post that I used 1/16 step mode, which reduces the holding torque to about 70%. Its worth noting that the step size is very small in this mode (3200 steps per rev with a 1.8 degree motor). If you can live with less (bigger) steps, then you could possibly use say 1/4 step mode, giving 800 steps/rev, and the holding torque would be around 90+%, or even 1/2 Step mode, giving 400 steps/rev. This may avoid the need for the brake – I guess it depends on what you want to use it for.

I also used a NEMA23 motor – a bigger motor frame would have a higher holding torque – I didn't need the size.

Good luck with it (I keep thinking of different things I could do with it just by modifying the software – but so little time)

Sorry – the site software has changed my URL to a "Link" – if you have problems, send a PM.

Edited By An Other on 16/02/2022 18:39:35

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

Welcome to the forum, Eliza!

Is there a model-engineering society near you, who'd be willing to help you?

You will also find plenty of advice on those and on specific turning matters, here.

Most amateur machinists are self-taught, helped by reference-books and mutual-support fora like clubs and this site. There are various books readily available to help you – have a look at TEE Publishing's and ARC Eurotrade's on-line catalogue for example.

One of the latest was written by one of this site's regulars (& moderators?) – Neil Wyatt, whose Lathework for Beginners keeps appearing in ARC's side-bar ads here!

What particular field of metalworking are you interested in, e.g. model-engineering in its strict sense (working, scaled-down replicas of various machines); making scientific-instruments or clocks; restoring old vehicles, tools etc.?

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

Welcome to the forum Phillip, you will need to checkout the method of posting photos, then somebody will probably be able to help. Failing that, have a look at the ARCeurotrade link top right on the page, they have spares for this type of lathe including electricals.

[Nigel BennettParticipant @nigelbennett69913]

Arc Euro sell non-return clutches; a type of needle-roller bearing.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Axminster only list one 0 MT arbor, to B16

RDG do a range of 0 MT accessories

The only 0 MT taper available from Arc Euro is on a mini live centre.

Otherwise you have along search ahead of you on Google or e bay

howard

[Ex contributorParticipant @mgnbuk]

If its for employees who are on site for several hours, don't install "chargers". Instead provide 13A (16A in europe) outlets and let the car owners use their 3kW "granny" chargers.

There are grants available to contribute to the installation of dedicated charge points – I doubt they would apply to 13A sockets. AC charge points can be 3 or 7KW in single phase, so a similar limit on electric costs could be achieved using 3 KW charge points.

AC charge points are not chargers – the actual AC charger is built in to the car. There is a basic communication between the charge point & the car when it is connected that informs the car of the capacity of the charge point, the car charger configures to suit the capacity then the a contactor in the charge point connects mains to the car. The "granny" chargers are not chargers either, just a mobile version of the hard wired charge point that communicates a lower supply capacity to the car.

Only DC "Rapid chargers" are actually stand-alone chargers – they connect to the car battery directly via a different socket, bypassing the built-in AC charger.

The grants scheme for installing charge points changes at the end of March (owners of individual properties no longer eligable for grants after the end of March) & the capability requirements of the charge points changes later in the year (June / July IIRC), so further investigation required before committing to an installation. A reputable, registered installer should be able to advise.

If you do go ahead with a public charge point installation perhaps consider applying parking restrictions to make the charge point bays for EVs only, with penalties for ICE cars that block them. One of the reasons I have not proceeded with purchasing an EV this time was not only the general lack of public facilities, but my observation that where they were provided they were frequently blocked by ICE cars. One public car park I visited recently had been provided with 8 charge points – 2 were "Out of Order" & 5 were taken by ICE cars when I arrived, all 6 when I returned.

Nigel B.

Edited By mgnbuk on 13/02/2022 11:57:19

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

I replaced the supplied sheet "rubber" Y-axis way protector on my Warco VMC mill in pretty short order and substituted **LINK** . They are well into their sixth year of use and show no sign of wear or tear. Like Peter, I lift them out of harms way when the table is traversed to its maximum extent towards the column. Highly recommended. No connections, etc.

John

 

Edited By John Hinkley on 12/02/2022 10:47:00

Edited By John Hinkley on 12/02/2022 10:47:45

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Robert,

My milling machine didn't come with any waycover for the front so I simply used a rubber sheet that I attached with some screws:

You can buy covers/machine bellows.

Thor

[Jim NicParticipant @jimnic]

+1 for the Diamond tool holder from Eccentric Engineering. (See the advert to the right of this page.)

I bought one over 10 years ago when I started out and it is still my go-to turning tool for most materials. They are not cheap but you get the holder, a HSS bit, a grinding jig and an Allen key. All you need is a grinding wheel, which you will need anyway, and off you go.

I now also have some indexable carbide tools for cast iron and a carbide parting off cutter from Arc Euro which I use on most materials.

Hope this helps

Jim

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Welcome to the forum Jeremy. Not quite sure what you're asking but probably some combination of these:

• How big? Unless specialising in small work, big machines are better than small ones. Slotting 15mm Aluminium isn't hard work, so a tiny machine might do for cutting a few short slots slowly, but cutting a lot of long slots quickly means a big machine. The biggest machine I'd consider 'Benchtop' weighs about 120kg: obviously needs a proper bench!
• What's available and at what cost?
  • New: as examples of size and cost have a look at what's being offered by ArcEuro and Warco. (Other suppliers available.) ArcEuro do smaller machines, of which the biggest might be considered too much for a benchtop: the SX1LP at 50kg might suit you, about £750+delivery. Warco have a wider range but no tiny machines and most of them are bigger than 'benchtop'.
  • Second-hand. Various about, but they come up at random and in various conditions. I'll mention Tom Senior and EMCO. Don't expect them to be cheap! Home and Workshop Machinery advertise in Model Engineer Magazine and they have a Rishton VM, yours for only £3450! Much more than I would want to spend! Keep an eye on ebay, lathes.co.uk, and For Sale on this site and in the paper magazines Model Engineer and Model Engineering Workshop. "Wanted" Ads are free on the forum.
• What accessories are needed? Probably a machine vice plus milling cutters and some way of holding them. The drill-chuck supplied with most mills is unsuitable for milling, so either an MT or R8 adaptor, or a collet chuck with collet(s) is needed. Aluminium requires a cutting fluid, but WD40 or paraffin and a small paintbrush are fine. For typical costs see the ArcEuro website, they carry a wider range of accessories than Warco and explain better if you're a newbie.
• Books and Web Information. You might start with 'Milling for Beginners' by our very own Jason Ballamy. Lots of stuff on YouTube but be careful: a fair proportion of it is flawed. Many people are better at making videos than machining and they often unknowingly include examples of bad practice.

Don't be put off by requests for more information. It's common for beginners to start in a fog and milling is a big subject – multiple techniques and applications. First step is to clear the fog by identifying what matters and what doesn't.

Dave

[jaCK HobsonParticipant @jackhobson50760]

Posted by jaCK Hobson on 07/02/2022 13:08:45:

Does the SG vice come with bolts or do I need the smaller of these:

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Clamping-Sets/Hold-down-Clamps

No, and No.

[jaCK HobsonParticipant @jackhobson50760]

I modify the basket with the SG vice. That also makes my dilemma about which size easy as it is between 100 or 160 (which just looks too massive). I like it when decisions are clear cut!

Does the SG vice come with bolts or do I need the smaller of these:

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Clamping-Sets/Hold-down-Clamps

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

Just the opposite! I acquired a second hand drill chuck which had an unwanted tang end of the MT2, as I really wanted to use in with the drawbar for drilling on the mill. It resisted my efforts to remove the taper. I settled for using it in the tailstock. Couldn't believe my luck one day, using it and chuck simply fell off it's taper! Immediately ordered a drawbar type from Arceuro, so it only now gets used on the mill. Maker; CVA, holds smaller drills than the Jacobs one now only used on the lathe. Mill is painted blue, so I painted a blue ring around the outer body of the CVA chuck and blue paint on the chuck key, so they don't get muddled up. Keys are not interchangeable.

Edited By DMB on 06/02/2022 21:48:54

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by MikeK on 04/02/2022 23:15:08:

In a recent thread someone from ARC Euro commented that "hitting (shocking) the arbor into the chuck with blow hammer… not ideal method, but just done for the purpose of these pictures".

Which is what prompts me to ask: "Okay, what is the ideal method?"

Look at it from the perspective of the designer. It's useful to make drill chucks that will fit any number of machines and useful for machines to take any tool. Ideally the answer should be simple, cheap, accurately resettable, and reliable. Tapers are a good solution because tapered plug-sockets provide a high-friction joint by wedging together, and it's easy to make adaptors that fit accurately along a radial axis.

Tapers are often used as a quick release mechanism. This variety needs to be tight enough to not slip, but loose enough to remove without drama. Over-tightening them is a serious sin, and being slapped in the face with a wet fish is inadequate punishment.

The other type, such as drill-chucks, are rarely removed from their arbours, perhaps never, so little harm done by fixing them firmly. An effective way to do this is to deep freeze the arbour whilst warming the chuck in an oven. Then quickly assemble the two and tap home once with a dead-blow hammer. The arbour expands on warming while the chuck contracts on cooling – the forces involved are enormous.

Firmly assembling a taper is declaring there's no intention to break the joint in future, which is usually fine. I suspect it's mostly amateurs who remove drill-chucks, either because they like repairing and re-using things, or are too careful with their money to buy two! Anyone making a living by cutting metal is less likely to waste time mending old tools or swapping arbours. Pairs of wedges are sold for removing drill-chucks, though I haven't seen any recently?

Drilling tends to tighten the taper, so no need for anything else unless a big drill does something unusual like widen an already big hole. (Lots of twist coupled with low down pressure.) Milling is different! It applies sideways forces and vibrations which tend to loosen the joint, so the taper has to be held firm with a drawbar.

My drill-chucks were all attached by plonking the chuck body head-down on a bench, pushing the cleaned arbour firmly into the cleaned chuck, and a single sharp tap on the arbour. None of them have ever come loose. I've only once needed to remove a drill chuck. It was after accidentally attaching a new one to the wrong arbour…

Dave

[MikeKParticipant @mikek40713]

In a recent thread someone from ARC Euro commented that "hitting (shocking) the arbor into the chuck with blow hammer… not ideal method, but just done for the purpose of these pictures".

Which is what prompts me to ask: "Okay, what is the ideal method?"

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Tricky one to answer, because I've no experience of putting a milling table on a pillar drill.

I have tried a cross-slide vice on a pillar drill and it was a complete waste of money, but the tables Wayne is asking about should be better. Wayne has a 'very good big pillar drill',which should be less bendy than my cheapo drill.

Irrespective of how well-made the table is, it's unwise to build a pagoda on top! Putting a table on the pillar drill adds height and reduces rigidity and accuracy. Adding a swivel vice to the table as well will make the problem worse. Whether reducing accuracy and rigidity matters depends on the job. If the holes have to drilled better than ±0.05mm, a tall set-up probably won't do, but it should do ±0.1mm. Designs are often changed to reduce the accuracy needed. Or the table is carefully used to make a jig and/or fixtures that position the job accurately for drilling. Jigs & fixtures are excellent for repetitive work because they provide speed and accuracy.

Of the three tables listed by Wayne, they look similar to me but it's hard to tell how well things work from a picture. The XY locking is done as in this photo pinched from ArcEuro. It done by tightening a screw, in this example an Allen type, against the gib strip:

The 4 gib adjusters are tweaked so the table moves smoothly from end to end without binding or wobble. Takes practice to get right, and may not be perfect on delivery.

I guess they would all perform about the same. Things I would look out for:

• Imperial or Metric (I much prefer metric)
• A rough scale on the table is useful for rapid positioning, otherwise the user has to count wheel revolutions. Should be possible to roll one's own.  Fitting a DRO is probably over the top for this application.
• The wheel-scales are probably resettable so X&Y can be moved relative to a user zero, but it's a right pain if they can't! Mental arithmetic required.
• How conveniently will the table fix to the pillar drill? Much depends on the layout of the drilling platform: hole and slot positions, ribs that get in the way of clamps etc.

Of the three:

• ArcEuro score high on reputation. Their table is almost certainly metric, no claims made for accuracy. I can't see from their photo that the wheel scales are adjustable, however the photo of next size up shows the they are and I doubt the scales on the smaller table are different. Can't see a rough scale. The table is clamped to the drill platform, or there are small bolt holes in the corners.
• Amadeal table also metric, and they confirm the scale is adjustable in 0.01mm increments. (Actual accuracy unlikely to be this good!) There's a rough scale fitted. The table has U shaped bolt holes, I guess 6, which might match the pillar drill platform, or it could be clamped.
• Chronos table has accuracy quoted in metric but the scales are Imperial. No rough scale. The photo of the table has long fixing slots, which stand a better chance of aligning with the drill platform, but the scale drawing shows 4 U holes.

Of the three, only the Chronos has a specification:

• Accuracy 0.06~0.08mm/200mm
• Parallelism 0.06~0.08mm/200mm
• Backlash 0.06mm

Not good compared with a milling machine, but I think representative of what you should expect of drilling tables.

None of them come with clamps or T-Nuts, so budget for these as necessary.

Which would I buy? Not the Chronos, because it's Imperial. Probably the ArcEuro because it happens that my drill platform is better suited to clamping than bolting down through U holes and I already own a clamping set. But if ArcEuro were out of stock, the Amadeal table would do. Not vital for me to save a few quid, so I'm not influenced by the AMA being a shade cheaper. If cash is short, don't forget to if check Post and Packing is included when comparing prices. In the event a dud table arrives, though ArcEuro has scored loads of customer service brownie points, the other two companies can be expected to replace or refund without much hassle.

Beware of buying cheap from the Internet. Risky if anything goes wrong, for example buying an iffy factory second and finding the Terms and Conditions require it to be sent back to a depot in Germany at your cost…

Dave

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 04/02/2022 12:04:08

[EmgeeParticipant @emgee]

Posted by petro1head on 04/02/2022 09:12:13:

Posted by Colin Whittaker on 04/02/2022 00:35:10:

I have recently bought a slow start relay from China for a central vacuum cleaner. (The original slow start failed and a direct replacement from Europe was perhaps 10 times the price.)

The reason I say this is that if you want an electrical safety cut off that doesn't trigger under the start up current surge then you could consider installing a slow start relay such as this.

Cheers, Colin

Don't have any understanding of these relays, how would it protect the motor?

By reducing the start up current to allow the use of a Fast acting fuse rated close to the motor plate flc.
Still IMO best to have the protection of an overload set to flc.

Emgee

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Posted by Colin Whittaker on 04/02/2022 00:35:10:

I have recently bought a slow start relay from China for a central vacuum cleaner. (The original slow start failed and a direct replacement from Europe was perhaps 10 times the price.)

The reason I say this is that if you want an electrical safety cut off that doesn't trigger under the start up current surge then you could consider installing a slow start relay such as this.

Cheers, Colin

Don't have any understanding of these relays, how would it protect the motor?

[Wayne RowleyParticipant @waynerowley56868]

Hi all, Thank you for all the posts.

No, I was "not" going to buy that one on EBay, it was just the sort of table I was looking for, but wanted a very steady one, one that will "not" move at all, thats most important.

I have got it done to the ArcEuro; 240mm x 145mm, AMA-LCT330 compact, or the SCT Cross Slide Milling table. Question please, would all these three have two table locks, one for the front to back, Y axis and one for left to right, X axis ??? And which would you buy ???

A jig would work, but as I use the drill for lots of other things, I would still have to set it up every time, I did try this, but thought its going to be far more faster and accurate, if I buy a table and mount my locking swivel vice to this.

Again, thank you all.

Wayne

[Colin WhittakerParticipant @colinwhittaker20544]

I have recently bought a slow start relay from China for a central vacuum cleaner. (The original slow start failed and a direct replacement from Europe was perhaps 10 times the price.)

The reason I say this is that if you want an electrical safety cut off that doesn't trigger under the start up current surge then you could consider installing a slow start relay such as this.

Cheers, Colin

[Dave HalfordParticipant @davehalford22513]

Posted by Wayne Rowley on 03/02/2022 13:55:46:

Hi all,

Looing to buy a milling table, but I need a good one, as when moved into position, for drilling several holes over and over in 40mm x 8m bar, and other metals for my wrought iron firm, not sure I can put a link in to our Web-Site ??? I dont want any movement whatever, or when move into position, I would like to lock it into position. I have a very good big pillar drill I will fix it to, and will fix my swivel vice on top of this.

I seen one on EBay, called; Multifunction working milling machine X Y cross worktable for bench drill, its what I "want", £269, BUT, cant see the name on this.

Hoping for a few ideas on which to buy, would like to buy one in the next two days, as have a very big job on.

Thank you all in advance.

Wayne

Wayne,

Give ArcEuro a ring

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by mick on 01/02/2022 17:06:41:

First off thanks for everyone's input. I have to confess that most of the electronic stuff is way outside my comfort zone. I did say earlier on that the stepper rotated when disconnected from the machine, I tried it again this morning and I can't stop it rotating with hand pressure which would indicate that there's torque there. So with the slide moving freely with only light hand pressure without the ball screw connected, but appreciably stiffer when it is connected, although it will move with only finger and thumb pressure on the ball screw square, but the jog won't move it, could it be this torque adjuster brain cell that Adam was talking about a few posts back?

Apologies, I failed to properly understand what Adam said.

If you were unable to stop the motor by your hand, then issue maybe mechanical.

Between the motor and the ball screw is the Oldham coupling with an acetal disc in-between the couplers. Here is how the assembly works: link

is the disc worn?. Technical details of the disc can be found here: link

Ketan at ARC

[Roy James 3Participant @royjames3]

Thanks JohnC, much appreciated for your reply, and the pointer to Arc EuroI know where I am going now.

regards Roy

[John CParticipant @johnc47954]

Hi Roy,

I use the 100 series toolpost and holders on my Boxford 10-20 lathe, 11 inch swing. They take up to 14mm shank tools. The toolpost model I have is the 111 which you can find on the Arc Euro website with all the dimensions. The purists may tell you that the 111 (wedge) type toolpost gives better repeatability than the 100 (piston) type. Whether that will affect your work only you will know….

The problem you may have with the larger toolpost is not being able to get the tool low enough to be on centre height. Again, the Arc Euro website gives details of how to determine this, also mentioned by Thor above.

No connection with Arc, etc.

John