Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Philip Coupland 3Participant @philipcoupland3]

Posted by Howard Lewis on 04/03/2022 15:12:00:

With regard to keeping swarf out of the control board, there should be a "rubber" grommet to fit in the slot around the Leadscrew.

Arc Euro list it as C3-256 priced at £3 (plus postage )

If you have not got one, it would be worth fitting one to reduce the risk of expensive failures.

Howard

Hi Howard, I’ve no longer got the control board installed. Although I intend to do a little more work to protect the workings from swarf, the Jack sewing machine motor and ancillaries are all well sealed, much better than the original lathe set up.

Edited By Philip Coupland 3 on 04/03/2022 19:36:47

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

With regard to keeping swarf out of the control board, there should be a "rubber" grommet to fit in the slot around the Leadscrew.

Arc Euro list it as C3-256 priced at £3 (plus postage )

If you have not got one, it would be worth fitting one to reduce the risk of expensive failures.

Howard

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Posted by Nicholas Farr on 27/02/2022 14:57:52:

Hi Andrew, these letter and number ones are from ARC.

I do have these 2mm and 1mm number ones badge GROZ, but can't remember who I bought them from, but it would have been one of the well known traders at one of the ME exhibitions.

They have all stamped OK.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 27/02/2022 14:58:58

The ARC Euro ones in the top pic look like proper good 'uns. They have a nice crisp sharp line at the apex of each letter form. That means you don't have to hammer the hell out of them to make a good letter. A clear, light impression from a light tap will make a good looking result. Many of the cheaper ones are a more rounded profile so are not as crisp in the result they give.

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Tim,

Welcome to the forum. In addition to the brands you mention Arc stocks Sieg milling machines.

Thor

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Have a look at Arc's.

Thor

[Alf BeharieParticipant @alfbeharie22737]

Hi, I'm new here. I own an Axminster Sieg C1 Micro Lathe, which I bought a couple of months ago on ebay used for £210, and I am currently collecting all the tools and accessories for it I can find, as it literally came with nothing but the tool post and a dead centre in the tailstock…It didn't even have a clutch selector knob fitted! (Luckily I was able to get a new one from Arc Euro Trading).

I would like to be able to cut threads with it that are larger than possible with a floating tailstock die or tap holder set. ( I have an MT1 set on the way which comes with three different size die holders) That would of course require a change gear set.

In researching C1 change gears I discovered they are available individually from Ar Euro Trading but at about £8.35 each, inc VAT, so they are too expensive for me right now.

The C1 manual shows a total of seven change gears but the change gear table diagram, on page 23 of the manual, makes absolutely no sense at all to me…I can't work out which ones to use or in what combination from looking at the table.

I subsequently discovered that I can get a change gear set for the C1 on (Deleted see CofC) with a nine gears, for under £25 too. But as the table only covers up to the standard seven change gears, even if I could make head or tail of it I would still have two gears that would not be on it the table!

Any help making sense of the change gear diagram would be much appreciated.

Alf.

Edited By JasonB on 25/02/2022 06:54:20

[Tony Pratt 1Participant @tonypratt1]

Posted by DMB on 24/02/2022 12:08:33:

I agree with you,Tony. See my one and only album photo, to view type of holder. I have just tried websites to find it for sale – no luck so far –

Arceuro, Reeves, Axminster, RDG tools, Rotagrip, Warco, Chronos.

John

Thats strange you have a 'Dickson' style tool holder, they should be readily available. Update, found them on RDG website, not sure about sizes though.

Tony

Edited By Tony Pratt 1 on 24/02/2022 12:49:09

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

I agree with you,Tony. See my one and only album photo, to view type of holder. I have just tried websites to find it for sale – no luck so far –

Arceuro, Reeves, Axminster, RDG tools, Rotagrip, Warco, Chronos.

John

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by jaCK Hobson on 22/02/2022 17:10:44:

… Do I need 3 axis on a mill that already has dro on spindle?

I manage without!

My mill came with a electronic scale on Z, and dials on table X and Y. As dials are error prone I added two of ArcEuro's basic scales, which have served me well:

Despite not being well protected against swarf and cutting fluid, they've survived! They make the mill much easier and faster to use.

The main disadvantage of the basic system is the X, Y and Z displays aren't grouped together or particularly readable. Big clear numbers and controls on the same visually convenient panel are an obvious improvement, but in practice I manage without.

Most of my milling is done by moving the table (X,Y) after the tool-height is set (Z). I only watch Z when drilling and plunging. Z is handy, but I could manage without a digital scale. DRO on X and Y provide most of the value in my workshop.

As always the value of an accessory depends on how the machine is used. Fitting a DRO of the simplest type to a mill is almost a no-brainer – it transforms the machine. After that, reasons I might upgrade to a 3-axis display include:

• Getting fed up with reading displays scattered around the machine. Not having a central display doesn't slow me down badly enough to fix it. But sometimes it gets close!
• Repetition work
• Frequent switching between metric and imperial. (I'm 95% metric, so not worth it for me.)
• Drilling lots of PCDs and lines of holes.
• Milling lots of curves or inclines.
• Need to recall absolute zero (I work from a succession of relative zeros)
• Convenience of a built in calculator for tool offsets, cutting speeds etc.
• Wanting to measure feed rate

Dave

[Alan BainParticipant @alanbain65026]

JB tools would have been my first port of call but they have vanished; website and phone numbers all not working. If anyone knows what has happened would be good to know as they were very helpful!

I should probably have said that the lathe while very much domesticated is a Hardinge HLV-H and I would normally part off under power feed (it is continuously variable). I used to have no issues while using the tips supplied with the holders but then they broke (due I suspect to off axis feed as jann west points out). I then tried SP-200s and and zero success which is why I wondered what might be up.

Will try arceuro…. Thanks

[Andrew TinsleyParticipant @andrewtinsley63637]

I have been using an Arc eurotrade Parting off blade with a GTN2 tip This is mounted in a QCP holder. So far it has done all I have asked of it on my Myford. I also have an HSS parting off tool, which I can use in a front and rear parting off block.

Now I would assume that a GTN2 tip in a QCP would be a good candidate for chatter and digging in. The QCP holder on my Myford is certainly not as rigid as a tool in a 4 way holder or indeed one clamped in the time honoured Myford way. So far both the traditional parting off blade and the insert blade have worked faultlessly.

Maybe it is something to do with locking everything that can move or maybe I have just been lucky?

Andrew.

[Martin Johnson 1Participant @martinjohnson1]

I recently upgraded to a cheap ebay inverter package on my lathe and while I was on the job I installed a small power supply for my Arc Euro digi bar readout. Inverter works fine, digi bar works fine until the lathe is switched on. It seems interference wipes the settings on the digi bar readout. If I use a battery supply to the digi bar all is fine, so I infer the problem is mains borne.

Have operated for some months on batteries to the digi bar now. Must get that round tewit.

Martin

[Bill PhinnParticipant @billphinn90025]

Michael, I've used these successfully with magnification to distinguish UNC from BSW but I'm usually defeated by sizes below 3/16" unless I sit down with the fastener clamped and use high magnification in very good light.

Can you give any quick tips on what is required to take photos like the one in your post and overlay a 55 degree angle of exactly the right size?

[David HoggParticipant @davidhogg58185]

Wow thanks for all your kind replies everyone 🙂

Andrew – yes maybe that was maybe a bit harsh, sorry! 😂 And a sample size of 1 isn’t very representative either …

Frances – Yes I found to my cost (literally!) how much more expensive Axminster can be! I ended up getting a precision vice from Chronos and it was about 25% cheaper, and some ground steel parallels from Chronos which were 50% cheaper! … Such a rip off for exactly the same products from the same manufacturer! I bought some other bits from Axminster when I got the mill as I thought it made sense to get everything from one supplier … but I really should have shopped around a bit!

Sorry, what did you mean did I tighten the head? I gently tightened the drawbar on the top of the spindle if that’s what you mean?

not done it yet – yes this was one of the measurements on my drawing and it was extremely straight, I barely saw any change on my DTI’s display which has a resolution of 0.01mm.

I’ve ordered two finger collets from Arc Eurotrade now and have submitted a support request to Axminster for a refund for the collet holder and the two collets I bought from them too (no use to me without a holder!) … will let you know how I get on.

Thanks again for everyone’s support, I’m surprised / grateful how active this forum is! 😀

David

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

I use ER25 from ArcEuro in my SX1 Mill no problem with them – Axminster generally are pricier than ArcEuro (not always for better class) but generally they supply acceptable material – seeing a cutter wobble suggests something is at fault – did you tighten the head as that will give rise to wobble? – on the small low mass SX1 tighten every gib that is not is not required in the movement.

Edited By Frances IoM on 20/02/2022 21:17:41

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Certainly 0.25mm runout on the inside taper of a ER chuck is shockingly bad and you should get a no-questions refund. You might consider whether a replacement from the same stockist will be any better. There are other suppliers of this sort of tooling, Arc Eurotrade who advertise here have always been excellent for me.

Finger collets have another benefit for small mills, which is that they give you an extra 40mm or so daylight under the quill. They can also be hard to remove if they get stuck in the taper, and they need to be very tight to grip well which perhaps makes them more likely to stick.

[David HoggParticipant @davidhogg58185]

Hi Jason, Mike,

Thanks so much for your quick replies, it’s really appreciated 🙂

Yes that was the first mistake I made — not inserting the collet into the nut first…! So it has been inserted correctly 👍🏻

The run out on the internal taper of the spindle is the “<0.01mm” text in green with the arrow pointing to the dotted blue line, so that’s fine.

I’ve just measured it and the run out on the internal taper of the collet holder is about 0.25mm.

I’m thinking of just getting some of these collets instead, to remove the extra source of error by having the collet held by another holder:

**LINK**

I wished I’d gone with these first as I imagine they’ll be much more accurate / less prone to errors?

Thanks again for your help 🙂

David

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The first thing I ask anyone new to milling is have you correctly snapped the collet into the nut before inserting the tool and then screwing the nut on with sufficient force as shown here.

The two readings off the outside of the spindle and collet holder are not really representative of what is going on as they are not critical, better to tale a measurement of the inside of the collet holders taper.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

This Instructables explains wedges quite well. ArcEurotrade used to sell wedges but it looks as if they only have drifts at the moment.

Dave

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

We should applaud all our suppliers, (such as Tracy, Arc Euro etc ) who deal with the order on the same day and put into the delivery system. Despite the shortcomings, Royal Mail often, literally, deliver the goods.

They seem by like the little girl. When she was good she was very very good, but when she was bad she was ugly!

Howard

[Andrew TinsleyParticipant @andrewtinsley63637]

I have not tried Powerbond, but I can heartily endorse Arc Euros Bond Lock products.

I purchased some Loctite threadlock off Ebay. I didn't look closely enough at the photo and finished up with a Chinese fake instead. Nothing to lose, so I tried it out. It appears to be every bit as good as the genuine product, much to my amazement.

Andrew.

[Bo’sunParticipant @bosun58570]

ARC Euro also sell some Loctite type products.

[RichardSParticipant @richards31161]

ARC Eurotrade, RDG & Chronos all have offered, at times, Boxford backplates ready for final machining and fitting. Whether they have them when you need one is another matter.

College Engineering Supply used to supply unmachined plates in various sizes.

The ARC website has a link to an article on how to fit a chuck to a backplate:
https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/reviews/Backplate%20Fitting%20-%20MEW%20141.pdf

I agree with Oldiron that the largest you can go with a general purpose chuck on a Boxford is 5″ so as the cross slide can pass under.

Also I concur with Clive Foster about “A 3 jaw isn’t a precision device”, I would put it slighty differently “”a 3 jaw is a device to hold a round workpiece approximatly concentrically”.

My largest chuck is an 8″ full fat 4 jaw. The saddle wings clear but the cross slide does not. Also the position of the jaws has to be watched to avoid fouling on the saddle wings.

[OldironParticipant @oldiron]

Not heard of Yama chucks. You can get a Boxford backplate from ARC Eurotrade. You only then need to machine the face to suit whichever chuck you go with. You can get a good chuck from ARC also. If you have any problems with it you will get good support from Ian & Ketan. Realistically a 5" chuck is about as big as you want to go with the AUD.

I have a 6" for my AUD but it can be a nightmare with jaw stick out so I have only used it once in several years.

IHTH

regards

[Andy_CParticipant @andy_c]

Apologies for resurrecting this thread but MSC are doing an Interstate 5C collet Chuck and I wondered if anyone had any experience regarding quality. I currently have an Arceurotrade 5C but have unfortunately not had a good experience. Having bought the chuck and then subsequently moved and had to reestablish the workshop I was unable to return it. The outside surface visibly wobbles despite having machined and clocked two backplates and re drilled one of them twice. The same issue remains and the collets when clocked inevitably follow the same pattern. I am needing a collet chuck facility given the engines and work I am doing and don’t wish to throw good money after bad. A bison is probably out of my reach – any comments on the Interstate which is currently on offer.