Search Results for 'arc euro'

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Steve, I assume this is a 40 Int taper to "something" adapter? I'm fairly certain you can buy unmachined blanks but might need a 40INT taper socket to hold it in. I've made a 30 INT taper to fit my CNC mill straight from the dimensions, by CNC turning, and it worked fine. The 40 INT dimension specs are findable on the web I think. But most INT tapers have easily available adapters I think for things like ER collets?

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

I recently took the easy way out and bought a ready made backplate from ARC. Slightly cheaper than buying a blank casting from RDG and is a nice fit on the Myford nose. I've come to the conclusion that, as a frequent changer of chucks and user of non-aqueous cutting fluids, seizure is unlikely to be a problem for me. Anyway, my er25 collet chuck and the Myford collet nose piece are both steel and they have never given me any problem.

HTH,

Rod

[bodgeParticipant @bodge]

For what its worth if i was in the market looking for a lathe i would be giving that 5 x 24 acorn a good look at , having just had another good look at the pics im inclined to think it hasnt done a lot of work .

I fall in with "not done it yet " on this subject.

The trouble with the new verses old is, new you can buy any time but the older english stuff is a waiting game more so if you want some thing different than the usual myford / boxford offerings, Acorn machines were really well made, if you cant find any one to go with you to look at a s/h machine take a good look at the lead screw if the threads look noticeably thinner at the head stock end then its more than likely done a fair bit of work, then check spindle for side ways play chuck a bit of bar stock to check to do this you shouldnt be able to feel any, check for any play on the carriage & cross slide they should move smoothly but you should not be able to detect any play when you apply a twisting motion by hand, though if you can feel some movement this may just need adjustment on the gib screws, dont worry about a bit of back lash in the feed screws, even new m/c,s have some

As you can probably tell i"m not a fan of Chinese made lathes, though if i had no other option available then it would be Sieg probably from arc- euro

I would phone and see if i could get first refusal on the Acorn first though, this is assuming by older english makes you were not meaning the the bigger stuff like Harrison, Colchester , DSG and the like.

Goes with out saying though only you can decide which way to go, so what ever you decide good luck…………….b

I have no connection to the vendor of the Acorn lathe what so ever , it just looks like it could be a good buy……….b

[Martin Hamilton 1Participant @martinhamilton1]

I agree with every thing Nick has said about the Wabeco D4000 lathe including his previous reviews, I made the mistake of ordering a new D4000 that was deliverd to me in May 2016. What an heap of junk this machine is, so much so im replacing it with what I should of bought in the first place. Yes a Warco, having owned 2 myfords a Chinese 918 & the last 20 years I had an Emco Maximat v10p, I decided I wanted to stick with a European made lathe thinking it would be a quality machine @ around £4000 that I paid for the Wabeco including some accessories. How wrong I was, I cant even bring myself to selling the D4000 to some one else only for them to find out the hard way that this lathe is rubbish. Im standing the loss & simply replacing this machine, don't be fooled by so called German quality as I was.

[MalcBParticipant @malcb52554]

Just a quick warning!

For anybody who constantly follows Ebay like me, there has been adds running for new Mini Lathes at around the £250 mark for the last two weeks. These are SCAMs being sold by newly registered zero feedback sellers. Some get pulled snd some have actually been purchased.

If you do opt for a new mini as suggested then go with one of the big names of trading partners that are mentioned frequently or appear on here such as Warco, Chester machines, Amadeal, Arceurotrade etc

Dont be put off with mini lathes. When i started serving my time as a toolroom turner i did my first 3 months on a precision bench lathe with only hand feeds. I learned a massive amount in that time before moving onto bigger lathes to further develop.

Good luck

 

Edited By MalcB on 21/12/2016 14:09:18

Edited By MalcB on 21/12/2016 14:10:16

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Arceuro sell a high quality HSS tap for Myford spindle noses.

Part # 060-101-00200

Been to the factory where they are made, state of the art gear used.

[Paul KaneParticipant @paulkane34100]

Posted by Hopper on 19/12/2016 06:53:51:

The eternal debate seems to be between a secondhand Myford or Boxford and take a punt on how clapped out it is, and a brand new Chinese 7 x14 mini-lathe and take a punt on the quality control during assembly. Probably the latter would be big enough for fishing reels. The Sieg C3 mini-lathe sold by ArcEurotrade seems to be a popular choice.

Buying a 1960s lathe can be a bit like buying a 1960s car or motorbike: getting it sorted out and keeping it running can easily turn into a hobby in its own right. A lot of fun. Very satisfying. But it takes up a lot of your workshop time. And like buying a used vehicle, you need to know what you are looking at in order not to not get sold a pup.

You can, though, do quite a bit of milling in a Myford lathe, more so than in a mini-lathe. But Seig make some quite affordable small milling machines plenty big enough for fishing reel work.

Edited By Hopper on 19/12/2016 06:57:50

Thanks Kindly for your help.Ill probably lean towards a mini lathe.and get some practical experience first.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

The eternal debate seems to be between a secondhand Myford or Boxford and take a punt on how clapped out it is, and a brand new Chinese 7 x14 mini-lathe and take a punt on the quality control during assembly. Probably the latter would be big enough for fishing reels. The Sieg C3 mini-lathe sold by ArcEurotrade seems to be a popular choice.

Buying a 1960s lathe can be a bit like buying a 1960s car or motorbike: getting it sorted out and keeping it running can easily turn into a hobby in its own right. A lot of fun. Very satisfying. But it takes up a lot of your workshop time. And like buying a used vehicle, you need to know what you are looking at in order not to not get sold a pup.

You can, though, do quite a bit of milling in a Myford lathe, more so than in a mini-lathe. But Seig make some quite affordable small milling machines plenty big enough for fishing reel work.

Edited By Hopper on 19/12/2016 06:57:50

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Hi Peter
​There are various means of fitting a power feed to the WM16 / similar models; a lot involve utilising a windscreen wiper motor of 12v / 25v range + plus a PWM power system to give you variable speed capability. I have fitted a 12v one my self to my WM16, there are pics in my album for you to look at if you wish. There are OEM versions that fit supplied by Warco / Amadeal / ArcEuro but these tend to be expensive, in the region f £300 + for your particular model. There have been numerous posts on here ( and other forums ) on what to use & how to fit them so best to locate & look see descriptions. My set up works quite satisfactorily for me & fly cuts aluminium / cast iron at a reasonable rate, so horses for courses so to speak. Grizzly sell them in the US but if you factor in postage + import tax + VAT … a lot of pennies! , best look in these forums for various suggestions.

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 18/12/2016 15:52:33

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

I have a couple of bore micrometers bought cheaply. One is a bit duff and would like one other size so periodically look around on ebay.

I couldn't resist buying a dti type bore gauge when arceuro started selling them. They are sort of 3 point but the 2 pointed end is rather narrow really. I believe it's possible to set these up with a micrometer and keep intending to make a jig to do that. Set carefully on a ring gauge these can be pretty accurate. The ring gauges in sufficient size ranges are probably rather expensive.

I do use telescopic guages at times. During training I found that these need to be a pretty tight fit across the true diameter to get accurate readings. Some care is needed measuring them with a mic.

One day when something suitable is being made I will try measuring OD and the wall thickness with a mic. Some mic's come with a ball end attachment. Some mic's are made for the job. Those can be pretty cheap as there isn't much call for them.

John

–

Edited By Ajohnw on 17/12/2016 14:03:00

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

Arceurotrade stock the Workshop Practice series of books. You would have to contact them about delivery.

Russell.

[pgk pgkParticipant @pgkpgk17461]

When i first started flying and crashing r/c helis I used to buy my spares direct from china. The postal service was innundated with folk doing similar things… used to get my parcels usually within 3 days and no taxes. Then they created a new customs sorting office in Birmingham? and everything went through there – delays and taxes. There is a (legitimate) handling fee and vat on the goods and postage and that fee. Couriered stuff they wanted £13 handling and they moved to assessing value here irrespetive of the declared value since the chinese marked everything as low value toys to try and keep their market going.

When you think about it there is an international postal agreement that the service in the country of origin gets the postage fee and the delivering country just delivers with no revenue. You can imagine how much stuff royal mail is carting around for nowt. The chinese fee for postage is peanuts compared to the UK charges to send stuff there – which makes it a one-way market. I could buy stuff for £4 or £5 delivered but if I wanted to return the item then the fee might well be £30 UK post.

As to vat – the original concept was that it would pay for europe… but like all taxes gets used for whatever Gov wants.. and as an unwieldy tax it creates jobs. It used to take me 2 solid days every quarter to work through my vat return for the privilege of paying £30K to the coffers. HM C&E refused to allow me to charge them for my time… I did argue that when they sent someone to check my books that guy didn't work for free… so why should I?

Gov wants power. Power to them means control of more people, more international posturing and vanity projects to crow about. All that means they need to control the mass and keep it 'happy' unnecessary jobs and make-work are one way. Fr;instance there's absolutely no reason why fuel duty couldn't be calculated to include vehicle tax and insurances and MOT's – no-one could avoid it and road congestion would drop but the motor insurance industry would collapse as would most of swansea with unemployment. It's why we have an economy dependant on folk buying overpriced coffee in cardboard cups

[Martin WParticipant @martinw]

VC

When you say that you have destroyed the "Whats this" do you mean the small transformer where you have placed the title or do you mean that you are looking to replace the entire board. It is possible to repair these boards for a very small outlay depending on whats damaged. If it was a simple overload/being worked too hard for too long then it might only be something like the SCRs or diodes that have failed.

Where abouts are you, roughly, as there are several people on this forum that have the knowledge to repair a board like this and may be prepared to take it on, trouble is Christmas is coming up which could put a spanner in the works. The other alternative is to contact the supplier to see if they hold stock of this board. I suspect companies like Warco, Chester, Amadeal and possibly Arceurotrade would have boards would be suitable but they are usually fairly costly items.

MW

Looks like everybody got their reply in before me 

Edited By Martin W on 14/12/2016 17:58:26

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi John,
You beat me to suggesting Arc Euro. To save Vic some time this is a link to the board.

Edit.  Well spotted Michael. I had not seen it and I don't think John did either. (I thought Vic was talking about the complete board.  The item is the trigger transformer that drives the gates on the SCRs. There are not many turns on it so it could be rewound if the core is not broken.

 

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 14/12/2016 17:59:52

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Its an xmt 2135 speed controller made by Sieg.

Arceurotrade sell them for around £85-£90….

What is the issue with yours?

I've sent you a pm, check your messages….

Edited By John Rudd on 14/12/2016 17:49:04

[Martin KyteParticipant @martinkyte99762]

We do quite a lot of perspex 'gluing' at work and always use a fume cupboard. Quick google search on the toxicology of methylene chloride gives whats below. Do ensure lots of ventilation and if you have pre existing conditions really make sure you want to use this stuff. Again certainly not saying don't but be aware.

regards Martin

DCM is the least toxic of the simple chlorohydrocarbons, but it is not without health risks, as its high volatility makes it an acute inhalation hazard.^[16][17] It can also be absorbed through the skin.^[1][13]

Symptoms of acute overexposure to dichloromethane via inhalation include difficulty concentrating, dizziness, fatigue, nausea, headaches, numbness, weakness, and irritation of the upper respiratory tract and eyes. More severe consequences can include suffocation, loss of consciousness, coma, and death.^[1][13]

DCM is also metabolized by the body to carbon monoxide potentially leading to carbon monoxide poisoning.^[18] Acute exposure by inhalation has resulted in optic neuropathy^[19] and hepatitis.^[20] Prolonged skin contact can result in DCM dissolving some of the fatty tissues in skin, resulting in skin irritation or chemical burns.^[21]

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Haven't seen anything yet… bit late for me though, have ordered something tonight from ArcEuro as Xmas prezzie from SWMBO.

George.

Promo ref number?

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Hi John,
​See my mail & pics…

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=86997

link for the dro's…

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/imagecache/41506808-8cf6-4276-b96e-a595010637fe_700x581.jpg

George.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

If you have swiss or similar small files the easiest way is to drill a hole slightly smaller than the desired keyway size in the correct position before boring out. Generally the centre of the drilled hole will co-incide with the edge of the bored hole leaving an essentially semi-circular cut out. Its pretty easy to file the hole out to size so its a snug fit on the key. If you want a real nice job and have HSS blanks the right size its not too difficult to make up a sharp tool which, when set-up with its centre line on axis, will shave out the last couple or three thou to give a truely fitting keyway.

I got a bunch of standard gears from HPC to make an imperial conversion set for my metric Smart & Brown 1024 and put off doing them for a year or so as I never seemed to get round to making a slotting device. Eventually I had to do one "right now" for an urgent job. Drilling and filing proved to be so easy that I did them all "right now" before getting on with the urgent job. Unless you have other work for it making a slotting device for this job is a waste of time. I used a diamond file set that came as a freebie from ArcEurotrade several years back to square out the holes.

Might be worth making a guide bushing for drilling accurately. I didn't bother. Just set a pin sized to be a nice fit in the original bore vertical in the drill vice, dropped the gear over and had at it with a smart new drill.

Clive.

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

I have just ordered some items from Arc Euro and paid with a debit card without any problem.

Les.

[TrevorhParticipant @trevorh]

Just tried to purchase a couple of parts from arceurotrade, got all the way to make payment and then get an error server message

so I press skip this stage then I get payment declined

I have sent an email to them yesterday – nothing

sent another to the contact us email

is it me or has anyone else had trouble

trevor

[Christine WalkerParticipant @christinewalker32747]

Hello everyone

Pleased to say, it's solved!

We made a call to Arc Eurotrade and within two minutes, a 4 jaw is on the way which will fit into the backplate off the 3 jaw as snug as a bug.

Fantastic service.

As ever, thank you everyone for your input and suggestions, and most of all, for your time to help me. It is very much appreciated.

Best wishes

Christine

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

I have a need for some 4 or 5 3-step drive pulleys (to take 5mm round belt) some 30mm in length, outer step diameters 50mm, 40mm + 28mm most with a 12mm drive shaft (grubscrew rather than key fixing?) I could use aluminium (I have some 60mm dia stock) or possibly steel – that on one small lathe needing replacement is aluminium.
My initial thoughts are to make a sliding fit 12mm mandrel with 6mm end screw to hold the blank – then to cut, face, drill(say 11mm) then bore or ream? blanks to size before fixing on mandrel for cutting the belt slots. One pair is intended to drive one of Arc -euro’s 12mm shaft mounted ER16 collet to make a small medium speed drill.
Are there any ‘gotcha’s in making these or possibly in expanding drive to 1/2inch post manufacture?

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Hi Christine,

I haven't got to the thread measurement yet.

As to the two chucks on ebay, there isn't enough information to confirm they will fit. We don't know if your backplate matches that on a C1 or not. Other posters have suggested it doesn't.

ArcEuroTrade are more forthcoming with dimensions. (This link isn't to their complete range, you may have to explore.)

Where A to N come from this diagram:

What you need is a chuck-backplate match between both G (distance from centre of the bolt holes), and H the diameter of the register indent). If H is correct, the chuck will centre automatically: if G is correct the bolts will line up with the holes.

Neil's backplate may be the answer In the event you can't find a match.

Hope that makes sense.

Dave