Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Arc list a 1 1/2" x 8tpi for less than £20:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Chucks/Lathe-Chuck-Backplates/Backplate-BOXATL-VICSOU-5-112x8TPI-Plain

This is a standard for "Boxford, Atlas, Viceroy and Southbend lathes" among a few others.

39 x 4 is far from exactly the same as 1 1/2 x 8 whatever that manual says! Measure across the top of a few threads to see whether the spacing is nearer 3mm or 4mm

It is more usual than not to have to use a backplate, as that means one chuck can be fitted to many lathes of different sizes.

Neil

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Christine Walker on 06/12/2016 09:09:25:

Chaps – I have managed to find out the spindle nose is 39 x 4mm… whatever that means. 20mm hole through spindle.

Forgive the stupid question, but would a chuck with a 1"1/4 x 12 TPI fit?

Christine

Probably not. A photo would help if you have the wherewithal. I'm not familiar with your particular lathe but it looks to be one of the Mini-lathe family. These usually have bolt on chucks rather than a screw-fit type. In the picture below two of the three nuts securing a bolt on chuck can be seen sandwiched between the back of the chuck and the headstock.

Put a book or lump of wood under the chuck to protect the ways if the chuck drops off when you undo the nuts. It's likely to be a tight fit and you may have to gently lever the chuck off.

Next step is to find a 4-jaw chuck that fits the flange on your particular lathe. The flange will have a register and 3 or 4 holes in it. Your looking for a match to the register diameter and the holes. Sometimes a backplate converter is needed. The good news is that ArcEuroTrade and others all carry good ranges of bolt-on chucks. With luck a CJ0623B owner will be along to advise: if not, I'd ring Amadeal and ask if they have a 4jaw chuck to fit the CJ0623b – they used to sell it.

The easiest way to centre work in a 4 jaw chuck is with a Dial Indicator and Stand. I blanched at the cost but it's worth it.

Dave

[Piero FranchiParticipant @pierofranchi37209]

I like the ArcEuro quote!!

only because I personly think they other the better quality components

Thanks for the time to explain the tapper attachment, It makes sence now

[Swarf, Mostly!Participant @swarfmostly]

Hi there, Piero,

The advantage of the Myford taper turning attachment is that it allows/enables you to turn longer tapers than are possible using the set-over top-slide (but see below). In particular, the top-slide travel on the ML7 & Super 7 isn't long enough to turn a number 2 Morse taper whereas this is well within the range of the taper turning attachment.

In theory, it is possible to turn a MT2 taper using the set-over top-slide if you do it in two sections but 'harmonising' the two sections would require an amount of juggling which I, personally, would find prohibitive. (Maybe that would form a suitable successor to the four-jaw indicating challenge at the Bar-Z Bash?!?!)

Having replaced my standard cross-slide with the long cross-slide, I have sometimes wondered whether it might be worthwhile adapting the old cross-slide to make a 'super top-slide' that could be set over and used to machine MT2 tapers. But, so far, it's always been easier to buy an MT2 blank end arbor from ArcEuro.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 05/12/2016 11:23:23

[Paul H 1Participant @paulh1]

Hi Gary, no problems at all bringing your equipment over here as we are still in the EU. Expect to install new wiring, sockets and tableau (distribution board). Going by many positive posts about putting inverters on lathes with 3 phase motors that seems to be a good move anyway. If you want to use English plugs stock up on adapters and get yourself some UK extension cords/reels and put French plugs on them. In the long run it is easier to change your plugs over to French. After over 10 years in Normandy I have very little left on UK plugs. Having seen so many houses bought by Brits and for that matter French, the electrics rarely seem uptodate so you will probably need to rewire. English wiring, etc will invalidate your house insurance. On the positive side French wiring is pretty easy to do, very logical and the distribution board much safer, but Brit electricians registered and working here are normally very good in my experience. My advice would be to have a specific board in the workshop, so all the breakers (disjoncteurs) are to hand. I can suggest a very good book on the subject that I have used for all my projects, but it is written in French. The bricos (DIY stores) have everything you need for single phase. Legrand is very much the Rolls Royce of electrics. My double sockets for the workshop come in at 7 euros 35 at Bricomarche.

As I have only this year bought my lathe and mill (mail order from UK with no problems) I too am interested to learn about French machining material suppliers. Tooling I order online from the usual suppliers in the UK. In fact some French forum postings suggest UK suppliers. RDG and Arc are very fast on delivery here. Cast iron seems to be cheaper to buy off EBay Germany. French suppliers of machine tools and tooling seem to generally charge roughly double UK prices. Structural steel is fairly easy to buy locally and all the bricos have a rack of small sizes and profiles of aluminium, some plastic and steel of unknown grade, presumably mild steel (it welds easily but machines a bit rough). I have found some places more orientated to agriculture have bar up to 38mm and as Clogs says have some selection of non metric fasteners. The internet comes to the rescue there also. If I can help more please email.

Could some of you perhaps tell us which French suppliers you buy your steel etc. from?

Paul

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

BGA = British Gliding Association

CTO = Chief Technical Officer

EASA = European Aviation Safety Agency

ARC = Airworthiness Review Certificate

Wish you put that at the start

Turned a replacement plastic plug for the top end of the polarscope hole on my EQ3 mount. A bit tight, so I hollowed it out and now it fits snugly and makes a satisfying 'pop' when you pull it out.

Great fund turning plastic with a boring bar and seeing it flow like pottery on a wheel!

A strangely satisfying little job! Where would I be without a lathe?

Neil

[Anonymous]

Yesterday I went to an all day seminar at the local gliding club on pilot/owner maintenance. In other words what EASA allows the owner of a glider to do, as opposed to an inspector. As far as EASA is concerned the owner is responsible for organising, and possibly doing, all maintenance, even if they've never held a spanner before! Of course I'm an owner, and pilot, but since I'm also a BGA inspector I can sign off work anyway. However, as an inspector I may be called to sign off work by non-inspectors, or to issue an ARC where the owner has done, and signed off, a lot of the work. So I thought I'd better find out what the owner is allowed to do, and how to judge competence. Turns out to be rather a lot, the main exception being that they're not allowed to fiddle with primary controls or other life critical systems. It was also a chance to meet the BGA CTO; nice guy and very approachable, unlike the last one.

Today was spent largely in the garden hacking back the blackberries. However, this afternoon I got my neighbour to help me lift the arbor press on to the bench. Took about 5 minutes and no trips to A&E needed; a win-win situation. I knocked out a few large washers and bolted the press to the bench with some stainless steel M12 bolts and nylocs from the spares bin. The ram and lever were cleaned, greased and replaced:

Later this evening I started machining the slotted plate that will go on the arbor press. The 3/4" and 1" slots were drilled and then finished with slot drills:

For the 1-1/2" and 2" slots I'll chain drill out the waste and machine a circle with the boring head. Then I'll chain drill the waste for the slot and finish with an endmill.

Andrew

BGA = British Gliding Association

CTO = Chief Technical Officer

EASA = European Aviation Safety Agency

ARC = Airworthiness Review Certificate – a paperwork exercise to check that the aircraft is 'compliant'

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

> Neil's baseline Boxford comes with all sorts of things missing.

It has a QCTP and 3-Jaw as standard, but yes a full set of change wheels is an optional extra on the 280.

http://www.boxford.co.uk/cms/boxford-content/uploads/2014/05/Centre_Lathes.pdf

The Warco you link to is a good lathe, but the OP is determined to have a European machine.

Emco claim "United under the common maxim of “Made in the Heart of Europe” " but apparently "The current Unimat 4 and Compact 8E ("E" for East) are made in China."

Toyo are Japanese.

Neil

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Glanze work OK for me or ARC's own brand are similar this one will face and turn and is probably the holder I use the most. The CCMT and CCGT tips can be used in boring bars too so you don't need to keep a vast range of inserts

Edited By JasonB on 01/12/2016 20:10:31

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

Actually got around to making a start on my Worden T & C grinder kit which arrived some while ago. I decided that I didn't like the look of the supplied table traverse kit, so set about recreating it to a bit more aesthetically pleasing design (I think). I also intend to try using it as a rudimentary surface grinder for small items, so this should help in that respect, too. I hope.

Briefly, the feed screw is a 10mm x 1mm pitch threaded rod supported on a ball bearing at the handle end and by the brass lever mechanism at the other. The lever rotates the outer tube and this engages the pin with the slider block, locked in place by the small thumb screw. (I haven't drilled the location holes yet.) Handle is from Messrs Arc Euro Trade and is, I believe used on an X2 mill. More progress as it happens in the album.

John

Edited to try to get the photos side-by-side.

Edited By John Hinkley on 30/11/2016 17:37:34

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

Arceuro do a set of small taps and dies. Not used them but they will have the diameters you need as they needn't be exactly on size just close.

**LINK**

You should be able to get pretty close to larger sizes in ordinary metric. Screws threads are usually used for fixings of some sort so exact sizes are seldom needed so it just means using different drill sizes for holes and different diameters for male threads.

That way is a lot lot cheaper.

The ultimate taps and dies are HSS ground thread. Some are cut thread. Carbon steel will wear out more quickly than HSS but in model engineering that often wont matter.

John

–

Edited By Ajohnw on 29/11/2016 13:07:44

[Michael Smith 15Participant @michaelsmith15]

I have taken loads of equipment to France from lathes to mini diggers and never had a problem .

When I wired up my workshop I installed english sockets and take most of my electrical goods from the UK, The price of electrical sockets etc in France I find expensive and nowhere near as substantial as english ones . I also believe that screwfix deliver to France on orders of 70 euros or more.

My local bricomarch what 20 euros for a Legrand double socket .

Interesting to know where other people live .My main workshop is still in the UK but I spend 4 months a year in France near to St Gaudens about 100kms south west of Toulouse.

Good luck with your Move Mike

[simondavies3Participant @simondavies3]

There are a couple of sites in France where you can order offcuts directly and get them 'posted' to you. I have bought lumps of steel and aluminium and had them delivered (along with some interesting comments from the delivery guy) – one 15kg lump of steel was 'wrapped' in 2 layers of bubble wrap so I pity the remaining parcels in that delivery!

Stock steel and al are also available delivered and at reasonable prices IMO – I bought a 2m length of 20mm silver steel for about 45€. Terminology is the usual problem – silver steel is for instance sold either as 'Stub', or 'Stubs' or as '100C6'.

Not sure where you are heading but there is a small steam focused club in this region (Aix en Provence). Feel free to PM me with any questions.

Simon

[mark smith 20Participant @marksmith20]

Your lathe will have a 3mt probably and the bore is probably small ,my 9a has 3 c collets and i think they only go up to about 1/2".

I would find a 3mt ER collet chuck of some sort and make some sort of drawbar out of threaded rod .

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Milling-Collet-Chucks-Morse-Taper-Shank/ER40-Milling-Collet-Chucks

or try one of these but you`ll need a threaded backing plate to fix it to.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Lathe-Collet-Chucks/ER32-Lathe-Collet-Chucks

Edited By mark smith 20 on 28/11/2016 19:32:47

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

The screwcutting chart in the handbook for my Chester Conquest Super quotes 40 – 60 – 40 to cut a 1.5mm pitch Metric thread, which implies a 1.5mm pitch Leadscrew. I think that that was what I found when I checked, when I bought secondhand, a year or so ago, but memory is not infallible.

In the R H bottom corner of the front sheet of the handbook, it says "C3" so I take it to be a Seig C3.

For anyone wanting to cut Imperial on a machine with a Metric leadscrew, or vice versa, there should really be a 127T gear in the changewheel train.

However, for the C3, Arc Eurotrade offer a 63T gear, and apparently the error is small enough to be ignored for most purposes, something like the fourth decimal place? (but possibly not if you are manufacturing allthread!)

Must  get round to installing a graduated Handwheel on the Leadscrew, with 60 divisions, (0.025mm/div'n) which I calculated to equate to something of the order of 0.00098 inches per division

Being a Super, the Cross and Top slides have DRO, but these Leadscrews were definitely 20 tpi when I checked!

Howard

Edited By Howard Lewis on 27/11/2016 20:42:53

Edited By Howard Lewis on 27/11/2016 20:45:30

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

if you click on Andy F's '298 forum posts' link, you'll see he hasn't posted for over three years, I'm afraid.

All mini lathes except a very few sold as 'Tru-Inch' actually have 1mm pitch screw threads on the cross and top slides.

A 63-tooth gear will let you cut metric threads on an imperial mini lathe.

If you really want a metric one, why not buy an imperial one and iget a conversion kit? Little Machine Shop sell one on your side of the pond.

Neil

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Some materials will bur even with the sharpest cutter.

You can clean up with a file, but the best value tool I have ever bought was investing in one of these:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Deburring/Pocket-Deburring-Set-4pcs

Easy to use, and only £4.74!

They leave a small facet and I have used them for deburring holes down to 1/8".

Neil

[Graeme KingParticipant @graemeking88577]

Hi all

I'm a newbie here and not a model engineer, so be gentle!

I am looking to buy a bench-top lathe for our business (which is in precision bicycle components) – we have two larger machines already but they are not well suited to some of the smaller & more accurate jobs that we have to do.

I've looked at a variety of Chinese lathes (all variations on a theme from Seig et al) and have come across two others which more or less fit the bill.

Here's the dilemma. I don't really want a Chinese machine. I know some are very good and from experience I know that in my industry, Chinese does not necessarily equate to poor quality. However, I'd just prefer that we keep as many manufacturing jobs at least in Europe, if not in the UK as we can.

So this has led me to look at Proxxon – and in looking at Proxxon, I tripped over SwissTec.

Now, I think I know that Proxxon are still made in Europe, 1st – question, does anyone else know if that claim is right – I mean really know, rather than it just being the general concencus? And by the same token, 2nd question – I have read that SwissTec are also European made – but I've also read that they are not. They seem like a lot of machine for the price point, which makes me suspicious – but are there any members here that know for sure – again, no conjecture please!

I have to travel 200 km to view a SwissTec and I can't get a solid answer from any online research & I don't really want to waste time going to look at a machine whose origins are Far East … so can anyone here give me an answer?

Much appreciated, all!

[Gordon Brown 1Participant @gordonbrown1]

ArcEuroTrade also do thrust bearings for the x axis that may help to reduce backlash but I think they are out of stock. I also fitted a belt drive to mine using a kit I bought from the USA but I don't think it's made any more. This stops the problem with the plastic gears stripping, makes the mill much quieter and increases the top speed slightly. I'm in the process of sorting out an led ring light to fit around the quill to give good workpiece illumination as my eyesight isn't what it was.

[Gordon Brown 1Participant @gordonbrown1]

ArcEuroTrade do a fixed column conversion for the X2, also increases the Y travel. I have one fitted to my Chester X2 version, best thing I've done to it.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/X2-Mini-Mill-Spares/X2-1-2-68-Fixed-Column-Conversion-Kit

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Posted by Jon Gibbs on 22/11/2016 09:56:29:

Rod's solution is very ingenious and is also possible with this indicator holder I bought from Chronos…

**LINK**

ARC do something similar **LINK**

However, Muzzer's method really is easy with a DRO – plonk your edge finder somewhere in the hole and touch both sides using only the X axis and divide by 2 to get on the Y diameter, then repeat in the Y direction to get the centre. Why didn't I think of that? – I must be an analogue kind of guy, not digital . Actually, you don't even need a DRO, you can do the same thing using the micrometer dials on the X and Y axes .

I suppose, in theory, a rotating system eliminates any run-out of the probe held in the mill chuck but if the chuck is that inaccurate you're already in trouble!

Cheers,

Rod

[Men IfrParticipant @menifr84251]

So ive bought the 80mm milling vice from arc euro but how do I go about milling a slot across the bottom so it will locate in the bed to keep the jaws parallel when remounting? What would be the method of mounting and lining it up and on top of that can I mill the material I assume its cast?

Edited By Men Ifr on 21/11/2016 20:22:15

Edited By Men Ifr on 21/11/2016 20:22:41

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Dimensions agree pretty well with my CCMT 06 inserts. From your sketch I would reckon perhaps a 0.6mm tip radius. e.g. like this

HTH,

Rod

Edit : forgot to add the 06

Edited By Roderick Jenkins on 21/11/2016 13:06:42

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

I've just looked on Arc's website and Ketan is listing spare boards for £88…..

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/SX1-Spares/SX1-121B-Main-Control-Board-XMT2315230v

[Nigel BennettParticipant @nigelbennett69913]

I've just thrown away a Burnerd 5" 4-jaw for the same reason. The body itself was the worn bit, as the jaws are a lovely fit in my newer 4-jaw. I kept the jaws as spares. So assuming yours has suffered the same wear, I don't think there's a lot you can do to recover it, short of machining up a chunk of cast iron to make a new body! (In that respect, I think the major difficulty would be forming the screw threads into it.) It may be possible to machine away the existing grooves and let in some chunks of material, but the effort involved would be immense.

Unless you like doing that sort of thing, I suspect your only solution is to buy a new chuck. I got one from Ketan at Arc Euro (the Zither Indian ones) and it's very good for the price.

Before buying, I'd had a look at a lot of the Chinese ones sold by Warco, Arc and others, and the problem with them is the stupid chamfers they put on the front inside corners of the jaws. You can't grip anything thin with them.