Search Results for 'arc euro'

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

If you use the MGEH type grooving and parting holders then APT do an insert for Ali that fits them. I have taken to using this holder more than the GTN holder (Glanze etc) for parting since one arrived from ARC Euro.

Edited By JasonB on 06/01/2017 19:53:01

[Martin 100Participant @martin100]

As the bloke on the Irish roadside says I wouldn't start from here: ) Milling on the lathe is always a bodge. The vertical slide is clumsy, the capacity is rubbish, the travel nowhere near enough, the overhangs and resultant rigidity rubbish, the visibility of the cutting edge often non existent. Holding cutters needs an effective collet chuck and they are quite expensive. Horizontal boring is a little easier but still a huge compromise.

For the money the original attachments cost you could probably pick up an import milling machine and do the job properly.

My Boxford had essentially just the chucks and a single 'american' toolpost when acquired, now some 40 years later It's now relatively fully tooled with taper attachment, 3C collets, ER collets, vertical slide, slotted crosslide and a boring table. The 4 way toolpost foolishly bought in the late 1980's now replaced by a model 100 interchangeable one from arceurotrade and insert tooling more or less entirely replacing HSS and brazed carbide.

Without workshop space for a milling machine I never bought one until about a decade ago and so milling on the lathe became a necessity.

But, for other than a very small handful of jobs over the years the task of milling is so much easier on a machine actually designed for the task. The vertical slide was iirc last used in the 20th century and the last time I recall using the boring table was about 2010 ish for a one off horizontal boring job that I recall well as it took a couple of weeks to set up as it required extensive jig and clamp manufacture and just half a saturday morning to machine a couple of mm from a 30mm bore for 70mm length in aluminium.

I'll never part with the boxford attachments because a job might come up that actually needs them, but for most of my milling work I would never even contemplate using the lathe as even a cheapy import milling machine like my Sieg X3 does a far better job.

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

Euro works out a lot cheaper for what I need to do. Since looking initially I've found some 1/8 bsp ones.

The easiest way to see what they look like is to search euro 1/4bsp on ebay. I bought 2 of these because the coupler on the compressor is Euro. They fit it perfectly with a nice positive click. I believe that they are 14bar but there may be some variants that go higher. They turned out to be in a SIlverline package. This might be the listing. Talking to a supplier there is a good chance that any sold as Euro will fit together well.

**LINK**

PCL XF may be different. It seems that they may also do one that they call Euro. Might be they same thing or might not.

John

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[Mervyn KarwotParticipant @mervynkarwot46957]

Hi Tom,

I purchased a 100mm versatile vice from Arc Eurotrade at the beginning of December. When it arrived, the handle would not fit and the metal was chewed and forced out by 4mm at the thrust bearing. I contacted Ian, expecting a replacement but he said that “they were all like that” and he decided to pay for return postage and give me my money back.

Unfortunately, I could not find another similar vice in the UK so I decided to import directly from China through Alibaba (a Far East Amazon). I found a company called Olima who make precision work holding devices and although they sell this type of vice in batches of 10s, they sold me one, the QM100N Precision Vice. We kept in contact through Alibaba until it arrived within the timescale and although I paid more than the Arc Eurotrade vice, I am thoroughly delighted with it. The vice cost around £120 including express shipping to my house near Glasgow and an additional £31.49 for import duty, VAT and Alibaba fee. I now have a beautifully made, precision milling vice with accu-lock anti lift device which works perfectly.

I can set it up on my FB2 milling machine with a metal square along the long edge and the jaws are spot on. I could only measure 0.001” lift in the moving jaw when clamping work and all surfaces are truly flat.

I have no connection with Olima other than a very satisfied customer and I have sent them a message through Alibaba about the fantastic quality of this product for the price paid.

Mervyn

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Many of the Far Eastern copies are based on the Kurt angle lock vise from what I have seen. Both the ArcEuro vises linked above look like pretty nicely made examples at a good price, a cut above the generic Chinese fare and are both angle lock vises that work in a similar way to the Kurt.

As noted, US machinists seem obliged to buy Kurt vises, apparently before they even buy any tooling or set up their machines. Almost as obligatory as saying "…go ahead and…" every other sentence for no reason. Adds nothing but presumably sounds very dynamic.

Merry

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Tom Gullan on 02/01/2017 01:22:58:

Hello,

I hope I've placed this thread in the correct area.

I bought a 80mm (jaw width) vice for my milling machine from Warco recently. I've found that when I tighten my work in the vice the jaws appear to move upwards and when I use parallels I can move them around easily, even after tapping the work down.

I've looked at a vice from Arceurotrade but am unsure. **LINK**

Can anyone suggest a small precision vice.

Regards

Tom

Tom,

The type you have referenced to in the link is heavy (10kg) and big…Check the Specifications tab in the link you have posted to see if the size is too big for your machine.

Ketan at ARC.

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

Posted by Tom Gullan on 02/01/2017 01:22:58:

I've looked at a vice from Arceurotrade but am unsure. **LINK**

Can anyone suggest a small precision vice.

.

Hi Tom.

I have seen and had a play with one of the vices in the link you show when I visited there to liberate Keatan of a cup of tea. Although I do not own one they did on inspection seem a very nice quality item for the money. If I had not already owned a vice of that size bracket I probably would have bought one.

As for the smaller vice requirement you have I do own one of these **LINK** also from ARC. It's a nice tool that is well finished and does not seem to shift under load.

Nick

[Tom GullanParticipant @tomgullan59234]

Hello,

I hope I've placed this thread in the correct area.

I bought a 80mm (jaw width) vice for my milling machine from Warco recently. I've found that when I tighten my work in the vice the jaws appear to move upwards and when I use parallels I can move them around easily, even after tapping the work down.

I've looked at a vice from Arceurotrade but am unsure. **LINK**

Can anyone suggest a small precision vice.

Regards

Tom

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

Posted by Piero Franchi on 31/12/2016 14:30:27:

Lets not turn this topic into "lets save face"

I to run a small company, And I know a few things about business, NO business ever started with an idea of doing right by the customer, they are there to make money, full stop, lets not be fooled.

My point is/was. wether you buy directly from china/far east, or support the so called UK seller who then buys from the far east, your money is ending up in the far east.

if the UK seller was to buy from the UK, I would whole hartly support them.

If your money is ending up in the far east, why not buy direct from them your self?????????

Simple point, Arceurotrade get my business, if your attitude to business is not doing right by your customers, well good luck with that, but you won't get mine.

I buy a fair amount of stuff direct from China, but if I'm likely to need service and support I buy from Arc. You can't possibly be in a service business or you would understand the difference.

Would you mind posting the name of your company and some details please?

Steve

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Posted by John Haine on 31/12/2016 20:45:25:

First question, what mill do you have and what shape is the spindle nose? If you have an R8 spindle (or haven't yet bought a mill and have the option to get one with R8) I'd recommend using R8 collets with a drawbar. You don't need a huge range of sizes anyway, R8 collets are quite cheap, they grip like b*****y, don't get stuck, and best of all they are almost flush with the end of the spindle when holding a cutter, which maximises the headroom you have.

If your spindle is morse taper, you can get MT finger collets which need a drawbar and have many of the same benefits of the R8, except they don't grip quite so well and the taper can get stuck (but you can make/get an ejecting drawbar design).

Finally you can get an ER chuck on a shank to fit your spindle. If your spindle is R8 then in my view there's no point in using ER, it just eats up headroom and reduces rigidity. For an MT spindle then at least you don't have the problem of ejecting a stuck taper to change the cutter if you use ER. Depending on the machine and the biggest size cutter you want to use, most people seem to use ER25 or 32.

Most of the usual ME suppliers have collets and chucks, Arc Eurotrade, RDG, Chronos etc. Personally I normally buy from Arc as they've always given good service and have good quality stuff. I bought my R8 collets from J&L Industrial Supply. Or you can buy through eBay, with the usual caveats.

Personally I have R8 on my Myford VMB and have never seen the need for anything different except for drills that won't fit in a standard collet. My little CNC Novamill has an Int30 spindle taper so I use an ER16 collet chuck in that (you can't use collets direct in an Int30 taper).

I have the Warco copy of the Emco. I think it has a MT taper in the spindle http://www.lathes.co.uk/emcomiller/page4.html

[JonParticipant @jon]

Hate ER types having had to use three types over the dreaded years, many a job scrapped not to mention taking an eternity to change over.

Presumably small mill would be MT, so much like R8 these never fail to hold cutters and no lost height. **LINK**

[I.M. OUTAHEREParticipant @i-m-outahere]

The only thing i can add to Johns comprehensive answer is if you go the ER system make sure you get the ball bearing type nut as it tightens up much better than the plain nut.

I'm sure that Ketan at Arc Eurotrade can sort out a collet system and a set of cutters for you , i would start off with a boxed set of cutters as you will blunten or break them sooner or later and once you gain experience you simply buy replacements as needed.

Edit : removed " better quality " as the set of cutters may be of an acceptable quality to start with .

Edited By XD 351 on 31/12/2016 21:32:43

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

First question, what mill do you have and what shape is the spindle nose? If you have an R8 spindle (or haven't yet bought a mill and have the option to get one with R8) I'd recommend using R8 collets with a drawbar. You don't need a huge range of sizes anyway, R8 collets are quite cheap, they grip like b*****y, don't get stuck, and best of all they are almost flush with the end of the spindle when holding a cutter, which maximises the headroom you have.

If your spindle is morse taper, you can get MT finger collets which need a drawbar and have many of the same benefits of the R8, except they don't grip quite so well and the taper can get stuck (but you can make/get an ejecting drawbar design).

Finally you can get an ER chuck on a shank to fit your spindle. If your spindle is R8 then in my view there's no point in using ER, it just eats up headroom and reduces rigidity. For an MT spindle then at least you don't have the problem of ejecting a stuck taper to change the cutter if you use ER. Depending on the machine and the biggest size cutter you want to use, most people seem to use ER25 or 32.

Most of the usual ME suppliers have collets and chucks, Arc Eurotrade, RDG, Chronos etc. Personally I normally buy from Arc as they've always given good service and have good quality stuff. I bought my R8 collets from J&L Industrial Supply. Or you can buy through eBay, with the usual caveats.

Personally I have R8 on my Myford VMB and have never seen the need for anything different except for drills that won't fit in a standard collet. My little CNC Novamill has an Int30 spindle taper so I use an ER16 collet chuck in that (you can't use collets direct in an Int30 taper).

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

One of these does the job for me, I added the rest of the collets over time as needed and now have a full set of 21 metric and 5 imperial. They do other size taper and R8 spindle versions as I'm not sure what mill you have.

Edited By JasonB on 31/12/2016 20:37:01

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

Just my 2 eurocents worth: For years I have used British made end mills from various sources and was entirely happy. Last Christmas ( a year ago) I was given some of ARCs premium quality Chinese end mills and the improvement in finish was very noticeable. I will not go back to using the British made ones however well sharpened except for a few imperial size slot drills.

Russell.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I the smaller sizes I find that the 3 flute FC-3 type are quite reasonably priced for sizes upto 6mm. Usually get mine for MSC when they have them on offer which is virtually all the time, have a look at bottopm of page 9 on the latest comic the uncoated will be fine.

In the larger sizes then the ones from ARC are good value, can't really tell much difference between them and my Dormer ones.

Generally avoid sets unless they are a well known brand as quality of the no name ones can be a bit iffy.

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

The usual reason for breaking taps is the wrong sized hole or tap going in at an angle – the last one being pretty famous at the smaller end of the BA range. If you look around you may come across the ME sensitive drill and tapping attachment – aimed at making sure that the tap goes in at the same angle as the hole. It's not unusual for drilling machines to have tables that are well out of square with the spindle or for people not to bother checking.

Another common reason for broken taps is not reversing every 1/3 turn to break the chip.

There has been posts discussing thread engagement figures – in other words increasing the size of the hole above the theoretical.

It is possible to buy good quality carbon steel taps. I was missing a size and noticed some used for sale on ebay. They wont be used much so no problem using carbon steel taps.

The stuff in cheap sets is usually useless. I bought one once at the dearer end of cheap as I needed some UNF. They were crap and wouldn't even start cutting a thread without a lot of pressure.

One set of metric I bought came from screwfix. Their precision set that may have changed. They are ok but the stocks are cheap and nasty. The adjustment on the dies is novel as well and doesn't work for me.

Tracy Tools have been selling taps and dies for a long time and will also get things in to order. I doubt if anything they sell is junk.

I believe some people are using ArcEuro serial taps.

The London Tap and Die Co are relliable. There are loads. Drill Services and others.

I thought I wanted some BSP taps recently. Would only be used on brass and not that often so carbon steel would be fine. I did find a tool store that sold both these and ground HSS. I then found fittings at a more sensible price. On the other hand a real tool supplier is unlikely to sell rubbish as it's not good for repeat business.

If you want to tap stainless good quality serial taps would probably be a good idea. Cast iron is hard on taps too. Mild steel, brass and aluminium tap pretty easily if done correctly.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 30/12/2016 20:05:11

[Old SchoolParticipant @oldschool]

I use Machine/slide way oil 68 from Arceurotrade

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Posted by Michael-w on 30/12/2016 14:51:39:

Arc Euro do a great one, I grant you it wasn't cheap

Michael W

I have two of the Arceurotrade dro's…..one on my 626 mill and the second in my 11 x 27 lathe…..

Mounting was fairly straightforward…..well worth the money….

Usual disclaimer……just a satisfied customer…

[MWParticipant @mw27036]

Arc Euro do a great one that I've used for a couple of years now, I grant you it wasn't cheap but I've put that through the mill (pun intended) and it's probably full of swarf in places yet it's still going well. It's better to rotate the scales upside down so that it prevents the ingress of swarf, although you will have to redesign how you install it slightly.

I think the unit was around 300 and each scale was about 80-100 pounds a piece.

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 30/12/2016 14:53:17

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Satchll on 29/12/2016 22:30:04:

Two days ago I ordered a face mill off eBay. The front page location said Guernsey but click on the seller and it says "based in China, an eBay member since December 2015". Is there a Guernsey in China ? Price includes free postage and I assume VAT.

The seller has 34980 feedback ratings. I make that an average of more than 91 transactions every day, including high days and holidays so surely must be registered for VAT.

Delivery is promised in two weeks so I guess its not coming from China but exactly where I have no idea. I bet it's not Guernsey!

On the same day I ordered some stuff from ArcEurotrade. I know that comes from Leicester and it arrived today!!

Satch'll

I had a similar 'problem' just before xmas. Ordered from China, told it was coming from China, warned there would be a delay in an email apparently from China, and then it arrived next day in a standard Royal Mail parcel postmarked Basingstoke.

Dave

[Old CrockParticipant @oldcrock]

Two days ago I ordered a face mill off eBay. The front page location said Guernsey but click on the seller and it says "based in China, an eBay member since December 2015". Is there a Guernsey in China ? Price includes free postage and I assume VAT.

The seller has 34980 feedback ratings. I make that an average of more than 91 transactions every day, including high days and holidays so surely must be registered for VAT.

Delivery is promised in two weeks so I guess its not coming from China but exactly where I have no idea. I bet it's not Guernsey!

On the same day I ordered some stuff from ArcEurotrade. I know that comes from Leicester and it arrived today!!

Satch'll

[Steve Keys 1Participant @stevekeys1]

Hi all

Hope you have all enjoyed your XMAS

I have a WABECO F 1210 milling machine i would like to fit apower feed to theX axis Wabeco no longer make this for the machine has any one fitted an after market unit and where can i obtain one

ALSO has any one have a AUTO LOCK milling Vise from ARCEURO TRADE

i would appreciate any comments on this

ALL the best for the NEW YEAR

STEVE

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Santa has been nice this year… Keats angle plate, external threading tool with 60* tip + 55* tip, – RDG tools… 4 piece set small hole gauges, set of 4 diamond mini stones, 1/2" machine reamer, – Arc Euro…. usual disclaimers.

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 25/12/2016 19:14:05

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Hi Anthony,

Chinese lathes are similar, not identical. I don't think you can rely much on type numbers or Badge Names to identify the 'best buy'. Sometimes they come with more tooling, hardened beds, bigger motors, or better electronics. It's worth reading the small print, and looking out for offers. Warco supply a calibration certificate.

From personal experience and comment on the forum, it seems that some vendors are better at squeezing somewhat better quality out of the makers. In my experience ArcEuroTrade and Warco have both scored brownie points. But I've not had a positively bad experience from any of the UK suppliers either. Other forum members will say what they think!

Whoever you buy from, it's likely that you will be able to improve a Chinese lathe by tweaking it.

I wouldn't over-think your purchase. Once you've made the big decision (new vs secondhand), you might as well get on with it.

Cheers,

Dave