Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Raymond AndersonParticipant @raymondanderson34407]

The Haimer Centro with the short probe is 92mm The Arc Euro one is 118mm WITHOUT ANY probe.

so the Haimer is quite a bit shorter, but as Andrew points out very much more expensive. I have the Universal 3D and it is around 115mm WITH the short probe. So big difference in lengths, and also in price.

[Piero FranchiParticipant @pierofranchi37209]

Hi Brian

Thanks for the info,

I know of the Arc Euro type, I tad to large for me I am afraid.

need/want something smaller

[Brian WoodParticipant @brianwood45127]

Piero,

​Take a look at the Arc Euro website, I don't think they come smaller than those.

I have a picture of mine in use here at home, but my browser is not compatible with the Forum pages so if you want to see it in action you will have to send me a personal message [PM] with your email address for me to send it to you.

Regards
​Brian

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

YOu would need a boring bar like this one, with a piece of HSS in the square hole at the lefthand end.

I's sure ArcEurotrade or other advertisers from this site can supply such a beast. You can get them do hold different sizes of HSS square bits, depending on what size groove you wish to turn.

Edited By Hopper on 18/11/2016 10:00:27

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Digital calipers are are made of stainless steel I have drilled them using cobalt drill bits from Arc Euro. (I think I have drilled some using normal high speed steel drill bits. )

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 13/11/2016 15:08:51

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 13/11/2016 15:10:37

[Men IfrParticipant @menifr84251]

I can buy a 5mm colbalt bit from Arc Euro

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Twist-Drill-Bits/Drill-Bits—Cobalt/40-55mm

While I put my order in for the milling vice so that should work I assume. it's £2 so worth a gamble at any rate – will I need a smaller bit for a pilot first though?

[Martin 100Participant @martin100]

Maybe Sieg X2.7 or 2.7L? £999 / £1025 +£65 delivery

**LINK**

[Nitai LeviParticipant @nitailevi73768]

Hi

I'm going to buy a 4-jaw independent chuck and it's difficult to decide. The "better" (non-Asian) brands I found don't have the size I'm looking for or didn't feel as good as their price… I found a few options and wondering if anyone here has experience with those. I'm considering ordering from abroad (I'm not in the UK).

Chinese(?) chuck from Pro Machine Tools. Huge advantage is that it comes with an adapter plate that fits my lathe (Emco). I can also order just the adapter plate from them and probably fit it to most other chucks, as long as they have a register.

I found Zither chucks. It seems that they have regular ones (on their website) and thinner ones (found on Arc Euro Trade). They are more expensive than the Chinese chucks if that means anything? Since it's on a permanent plate the front mount is really not important, but the bolts are inside the register, which probably means it should touch there. Maybe it's my imagination that it's more rigid with the chuck and plate touching on the outside with inner register, but I don't really know.

There are the Vertex chucks. Are they really made in Taiwan? I know from other fields many Taiwanese companies have products made in China…
I've never seen a Vertex chuck here but I know a local importer which sells Vertex vises so they can probably order it.

There are some other chucks locally that I'm still checking, where they are made, etc. Prices are higher than the UK which means nothing since the same Chinese tools usually cost much more here.

I've had some problems with Chinese chucks before so a bit worried… like significant run out, tapered jaws, etc.

Thanks for any suggestions

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Ajohnw on 10/11/2016 16:20:48:

I bought a couple of NOS Tome files off Ebay. They are definitely the real thing and not toys.

If Ketan has got in some 10 or 12in 2nd cut parallel files with one safe edge and hopefully a slight bow that flattens under pressure I will be buying a couple of those too.

John

John,

When you say NOS, do you mean it as an abbreviation for 'New Old Stock'?

If you have our catalogue number 10, please see page 38 – Hand Files which are parallel with one safe edge in Cut 1, 2, and 3, with lengths 100mm, 150mm, 200mm, 250mm, and 300mm. Or, page 40 – Lead Float Hand Files in Cut 0 (Very Coarse) for softer materials in lengths 200mm, 250mm, and 300mm.

Don't know about bow that flattens under pressure – as just under/around 6mm thick, I wonder how much pressure would be required to do this.

Web links to relevant pages here with reference to page 38 and here with reference to page 40. Hope it helps.

Ketan at ARC.

[clogsParticipant @clogs]

….Hi all,

I have asked before but reached the end in finding a wiring diagram for the

Myford VMF milling machine……3 Phase…….made in Taiwan….

have tried Lathe +co, RDJ, (the new Myford name owners) plus several sites in the USA….even Warco……hoping that someone else imported it, perhaps under another name…eg. Grizzly, USA………..but no luck……

any other suggestion's, I'm on first name terms with google……hahaha…..

the machine was made in 1995, would I be correct in thinking it would have been wired up here ? the contactors are European made…..the machine is as new…..

would Myford themselves have wired it up or perhaps a contractor…?

does anyone know…….

there is nobody near me that can help, so without a w/diagram this machine is junk……any ideas or help would be great……..

thanks Clogs

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 10/11/2016 15:49:27:

My new milling vice is the same as the ARC 80mm radial one, but from Warco. It works very well.

The precision vices are aimed at toolroom-type use, they have a slower to use system to operate the jaw that also negates jaw lift, but their advantage is that being ground all over you can fit a part, then turn the vice and mount it various ways up to machine different sides of the work without taking it out of the vice for maximum accuracy. The extra costs comes from the extra precision grinding required. You usually have to use separate clamps to mount these on a mill.

I have middle-way precision vice with a conventionally operated jaw, but ground all over.

Neil

Men Ifr,

Had a look at the mill, and I would confirm that for general purpose daily use – drilling/milling, the 80mm radial milling vice as in Neils link is suitable for your mill. 100mm is too big.

For higher precision work – 90 mm Precision tool vice type 2 – as Matthew said.

Note also: the 100mm general purpose vice has a groove near the fixed jaw end. So if using thin parallels, the one used near the fixed jaw end could fall into the groove. This is not so clear in any pictures.

Regarding the ARC 'versatile' vices, they are too big for your mill. For others who may be considering these for bigger mills after reading Neils comments, in terms of quality, they are not on par with the original Kurt type with which some people compare (because of the lovely pictures we show), and this is reflected in the price. They are closer in build/quality to the Vertex. The 'No-lift' can lift – a little, especially if the mechanical segment in the moving jaw assembly is not quite sitting perfectly in place. Having said all of this, we have happy customers with reasonable sales for these vices.

For maximum accuracy without jaw lift, the type 2 are still the best, in our opinion.

Ketan at ARC.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Having seen several of the ARC 'versatile' vices (below0 they are exceptionally nice and have a design that pushes the jaw down to prevent any jaw lift. I was gutted that the smallest is too big to be practical on my mill.

My new milling vice is the same as the ARC 80mm radial one, but from Warco. It works very well.

The precision vices are aimed at toolroom-type use, they have a slower to use system to operate the jaw that also negates jaw lift, but their advantage is that being ground all over you can fit a part, then turn the vice and mount it various ways up to machine different sides of the work without taking it out of the vice for maximum accuracy. The extra costs comes from the extra precision grinding required. You usually have to use separate clamps to mount these on a mill.

I have middle-way precision vice with a conventionally operated jaw, but ground all over.

Neil

[Ex contributorParticipant @mgnbuk]

I have a Vertex K4 vice, which is similar capacity to your second link & like this :

**LINK**

Slightly less capacity (62mm vs 80 mm jaw opening), but a more robust construction I think – that extra capacity comes at the price of less rigidity.

I use it on a Taiwanese Emco FB2 clone like this one :

**LINK**

The table is 150 wide by 600 long (IIRC. It has 400mm long travel) & the K4 is usable for much of what I do. It's limited opening is a problem on occasions & I am looking at the Arc 90mm toolroom vice to be able to hold wider material. I did buy a vice similar to your first link from Axminster Power Tools – it was returned because the particular vice supplied was very poorly finished, but I was suprised at it's overall size & think it would have overwhelmed the machine. I don't think that the toolroom vice would be short of holding power (I have a similar style Sherline vice that works well) & being hardened steel should be resiliant. Most "high end" industrial vices like Geradi are hardened steel. I do like the look of this one from Arc :

**LINK**

but still think it would be too big for my mill

Given the small stature of your machine, I don't think it will be necessary to beat the vice to death to clamp the workpiece firmly enough – most likely something else would give first !

I have a set of "normal" parallels from RDG at work – accurately made & a good price compared to industrial suppliers. My set of "thin" parallels at home came from a Harrogate exhibition – Rotagrip IIRC – which are also accurate.

HTH

Nigel B

[Men IfrParticipant @menifr84251]

Matthew

You mean one of these: http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Machine-Vices/Precision-Tool-Vices-Type-2

?

What is the benefit of these over the type of vices I listed? I see they are more expensive but I don't understand why, also the length of the moveable jaw is less so I would expect more issues with the jaw lifting? Also how do you bolt it to the bed?

[Men IfrParticipant @menifr84251]

The choice is from 2 vices on arc euro trade

 

1st

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Machine-Vices/ARC-Versatile-Milling-Vices-with-swivel-base

The 100 mm versitile vice – has a design so the moveable jaw does not lift – the versitility may come in handy BUT there are only 2 mounting holes on the vice so it cannot be mounted perpendicular to the table on my SPG 9512 mill with its narrow table. (or not without the swivel base)

It is £75

 

2nd choice is the cheaper £52 100mm

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Machine-Vices/Radial-Milling-Vices

It has 4 mounting holes on the vice itself so can be mounted parallel or perpendicular to the bed which is an advantage – but will the (assumed) lower quality cause problems mounting work?

My Mill is: http://www.spgtools.com/viewtool.php?pid=22

 

Edited By Men Ifr on 09/11/2016 22:36:22

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Arc Euro sell blank MT2 arbors (such as their part number 120-030-00100) that you could turn down and screwcut to M12. You would also need to buy a screw in tang which they also sell.

Les.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

A floating Reamer Holder is not impossible to make. At the Spalding M E Show the other year, there were two displayed. One was mine on the Peterborough stand and the other was, from memory on the Stamford standard.

The one on the Stamford stand used parallel OD, with internal Morse taper, sleeves, whereas mine is based on a Morse taper arbor carrying a body to take a loose fitting (shop made) ER25 collet holder. The collet nut was purchased from Arc Euro Trade, (much too complicated and accurate for me to make, anyway) This holds Hand Reamers. For Machine Reamers, I made up a larger body to take shop made ER 32 collets with 1,2, and 3 MT internal tapers. (Left soft in view of the likely very limited use)

As usual, no drawings, but if you send me a PM with your E mail address, I'll take pictures and send to you.

The only bits that may be considered complicated are cutting the 16 degree included internal taper, and the 32 x 1.5mm external thread. The ER32 collets with the internal MT tapers were a bit more of a challenge.

Howard

[john carruthersParticipant @johncarruthers46255]

Have you tried the Arceuro guide here?;
**LINK**

Especially section 172 which covers compound slide backlash.

I recently rplaced the compound lead screw which had worn noticeably.

[Michael HornerParticipant @michaelhorner54327]

Hi Wolfie

Have a look at this! **LINK**

else try Wikipedia.

Cheers Michael

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

"this type of Boxford"

Do not assume everyone knows all about your workshop. If you have a 5MT spindle then you have to make your own adaptor from a 5 to 3 MT sleeve They are in theory available at least in the 'states from Grizzly but at a price. Strange that despite the number of Chinese 12in lathes sold the vendors have not cottoned on to the potential market for them and for bits of tube of the appropriate diameter.
If you have a MT4 1/2 spindle which I think some were then careful measuring is in order.
Then you can go for the front mounted adaptor but then you might as well use a chuck.

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

All the bearings are available from ARC **LINK**

The front bearing needs to be shielded, ZZ in ARC terminology. They are pretty cheap, not worth looking for S/H IMHO

Rotation is anti-clockwise looking at the engine through the prop. Fuel will be a pre-mixed Methanol/ 10% Castor oil. Malcolm Stride's" Miniature Internal Combustion Engines" will tell you all you need to know.

Have fun

Rod

[Swarf, Mostly!Participant @swarfmostly]

Hi there, all,

I hope you will forgive me for an off-topic observation (i.e. nothing to do with either PTFE or HF except that it does concern adhesives and difficult plastics).

I received a couple of items in the Post this morning (they happened to be from Arceurotrade) and I was very impressed by the bond between the flap and body of the mailing envelopes. I had to cut the flap with a knife to get access to the contents. I assume that the packer removes a barrier strip from the adhesive strip and then closes the envelope. That adhesive joint is really, really strong.

It's a shame you can't get that stuff in a tube/bottle!!!

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

[mick70Participant @mick70]

try arc euro they list them.

am getting their tilt and slide one end of nov.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Posted by Iain Downs on 25/10/2016 21:24:56:

It was just about as hard to get the thing back in. Lots of clicks as it moves .5mm. Hard to tell when it's in place .

Iain

If you had to pound on the spindle with a hammer to get it back together, your bearings are toast. So you might as well go the whole new spindle and tapered roller bearings route. See the ARC Eurotrade website in the section called "ARTICLES" for a how to on changing the bearings.

Edited By Hopper on 26/10/2016 05:49:41

Edited By Hopper on 26/10/2016 05:51:39

[Jon GibbsParticipant @jongibbs59756]

Hi Geoff,

Harold Hall has a nice description here for a collet chuck which will thread onto the spindle nose of your lathe rather than blocking up your spindle… **LINK**

This method can easily be adapted to make an ER20 collet chuck that will thread on your spindle nose (?) – with the same 8 degree taper which would open up the possibility to use it for holding workpieces too.

Arc Euro sell ER20 collets, nuts and spanners at reasonable prices.

HTH

Jon