Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Callum,

Welcome!

But, if you are new to engineering, and lathes, I would counsel against buying a lathe AND restoring it..

A lathe starts life as a precision machine, although with use, it may well suffer some wear.

By all means, clean it and lubricate it, but avoid stripping or much in the way of adjustments, unless you know what you are doing.. You don't want to make anything worse.

Unless you have the correct knowledge, skill and equipment to measure and rectify, you might do more harm than good. in attempting to restore it.

Without the knowledge and skill, you will have enough to do to learn how to operate the lathe.

(One of the first things that I learned was that whatever cut I put on reduced the diameter by twice as much )

Learning how to cope with a machine that is worn, will always be useful.

With any machine, even a new one, to do accurate work, you have to allow for backlash.

Find and join a local model engineering Society. There you will be face to face with people who can help you.

Where are you located? You may be able to find a club local to you on Google.

Guided by someone with experience,you will be helped to learn how to set up and use the machine.. They can also guide you as to what measuring equipment you need, and tooling, as a minimum.

(I would advise starting with a digital calliper. For about £10 yo should be able fo find one in ALDI or LIDL, when they come in on offer. Alternatively, a pretty good quality one, such as a Moore and Wright, can be bought from machine DRO. This is just under £26, plus shipping. ) This will enable you to work in either Imperial, or Metric units. Being a Zyto, I would expect the leadscrews to be Imperial.

My advice, FWIW would be to use High Speed Toolbits.

This means that you will need to learn how to grind tools, which means more expense to buy a bench grinder!

Fellow M E Club members will help you learn how to grind tools.

Other expenditures that would be advisable would be a set of Zeus Charts, and a book such as Ian Bradley's "The Amateur's Workshop".This covers workshop practice in general.

For books on lathe work, there are several that would be useful (You don't need to buy all of them! )

The most often recommended is L H Sparey "The Amateur's lathe", but Stan Bray and Harold Hall ((Both former editors of MEW ) have written books on lathe work..

Where to get these items?

I am pleased with my M & W calliper from machine DRO, and although not a big spender, have had good service from Arc Euro Trade (Take a look at their website) .

Start by just just cutting some mild steel

Having done a little ,bit of turning, gain experience by making simple tools. These will give you experience, and will be useful in the future..

One of the first that I would suggest is a Centre Height Gauge. Once made and set up thisaid setting cutting tools to Centre Height. (If a tool is not at centre height, it will not cut properly, and even if it cuts, will leave a pip in the middle of the work..

A simple one just needs a piece of round steel, three nuts, a short piece of studding and small piece of flat plate or another flat disc. This will involve you in drilling and tapping. Drilling and tapping is another skill that you will soon need to acquire. (More expenditure;but you don't have to do everything at once. You can but things as and when you need them.) And other club members no doubt, will help.

If you are unsure about making a centre height gauge, PM me and we can find a way to help you.

Howard

 

Edited By Howard Lewis on 14/08/2022 07:26:49

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Have a look at the Arc Euro website.

As far as I know the CL300 is made by Sieg, and is C3 in disguise, Arc Euro list spares for C2 and C3 lathes,(Probably the same as the Chester Conquest ) so may well be able to supply a replacement motor., or other spares.

Howard

[PipesandStuffParticipant @pipesandstuff]

Good Evening chaps. I have sold my old lathe and bought a chinese 10×22 so it is very similar to Warco 250. With it I got the standard 4 way tool post. Have been thinking about these quick change tool posts that everyone seems to buy and it is tempting to buy one. Contacted RDG and they suggested the Myford size T37, but that seems very small? I have come to these options and I am curious which of these option would you go for and why?

1.T51 Boxford size Dixon type QCTP from RDG

2: T37 Myford size Dixon QCTP from RDG

3: 250-111 wedge style QCTP from Arceurotrade

4: Make a couple of 4 way tool posts and keep tools permantent in them and just change the tool post.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

You need to use a holder for those type of parting off tools to suit your lathe, this sort of thing

[Stuart Smith 5Participant @stuartsmith5]

David

This a previous thread on the Touch DRO system.

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=158471

I have made two, one for my mini lathe using cheap digital calipers and the other for my mill using dro scales from ArcEuro. I built the circuits using info from the internet and other members on here. This is the one for my mill.

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/albums/member_photo.asp?a=50081&p=859167 

Stuart

Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 06/08/2022 21:29:58

Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 06/08/2022 21:30:55

[Martyn DuncumbParticipant @martynduncumb88863]

For encouragement, I built the Touch DRO circuit on a piece of veroboard about three years ago and it has worked extremely well since. I had to have two attempts on building the electronics as my knowledge is rather basic and I don't suppose the result can be called 'elegant'.

However with three digital readout scales from ArcEurotrade fitted on my SX2P mill I have found it extremely useful and would not like to go back to relying just on the basic readouts as supplied. I bought a cheap(ish) Lenovo tablet £50 for the display. I do not do a massive amount of work but milling now is a joy and far more accurate than I could manage before.

Martyn

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Speedy Builder5 on 06/08/2022 07:02:12:

Get Pheonix to ship to a friend in the Uk, then to N.Ireland ? Its similar to crossing into Europe from the UK.

Phoenix are a UK company.

Looks like there are two problems:

• Paint being a dangerous product requires particular packaging, which depends on the rules applied by the sending and receiving countries.
• Since Brexit it is unclear which trade rules apply in Northern Ireland. The province is a special case; to avoid creating a hard border between Eire and Ulster, a soft border was set up between Northern Ireland and the rest of the UK. Confusing because Northern Ireland is both inside and outside the European Union whilst also being both inside and outside the UK. For trade purposes It's more EU than UK.

The Phoenix website says 'Northern Ireland – Currently we are waiting to find out costs etc. of shipping to NI ' I think the problem is the courier doesn't know how much it will cost yet. There's advice on the government website, but it doesn't help much. For example, does paint require a Custom's Declaration or not?

Not sure what to suggest. Collect in person. Find a friend travelling to NI from the UK who is prepared to carry it. Have it couriered to an address in Eire and collect from there, or have them courier it to NI. (Other than arranging and paying for it I don't think there's a problem sending paint from the UK to Eire and then from Eire to NI.)

Dave

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Hi Chris, and Welcome.

Whereabouts are you located?

If you can, find a local Model Engineering Club and Join. You will enjoy the company and learn a lot just by listening ton the conversations.

With regard to "What Lathe", your choice depends on a variety of factors. Which ones are known only to you.

How much space do you have for it? Having a congested workshop, take it from me that extra space is always useful.

What do you plant to make eventually?

You can do small work on a big lathe, but the reverse can be difficult.

So, if in doubt, go for one a bit larger than you first though.

With regard to lathe features.

Varieble speed drive is useful, but not obligatory. A very useful "Nice to Have"

Almost any lathe capable of screwcutting will provide a power feed for sliding.

Power cross feed tends tom feature on larger machines. Having changed from Myford ML7 , (I found the 2 MT Headstock bore very restrictive – Cue howls of protest from Myford users )with a single phase motor to a larger lathe with VFD and PCF, they are marvelousn features to have..

If you want PCF, have you considered the Sieg SC4? It has variable speed drive and VFD. It is offered by Arc Euro Trade and Axminster. The price difference is caused by the difference in warranty ans accessories supplied with the machine.

Power feeds don't remove the need to learn how to provide a steady feed by hand.

I am good at spending other people's money. You don't have to completely fit out a workshop from the start, but some kit soon becomes essential.

You will need measuring equipment, and very probably, a bench grinder.

At some stage you will find a need for a 4 jaw chuck (£ jaw chucks are self centering, but do not hold work absolutely concentric. For that you do need to centre in a 4 jaw independent, and need at least one Dial Test Indicator (Clock) and a magnetic base Then you can set work with as little run out as you wish. And of course you can hold square or irregularly shaped work to machine it.

And of course, it enables you to deliberately machine work eccentric for some jobs.

It is a very good idea to "learn your trade" by making small tools. You can make mistakes more cheaply on a bit of mild steel bar than on a casting from a kit.

One of the first tools that I would advocate, is a Centre Height Gauge. It saves a lot of time mounting a tool on Centre Height. Imperative if it is to cut properly,

You will receive differing advice on what tools to buy and use. Some will advocate HSS or a Tangential Turning Tool, (All of which can be ground to resharpen. Another trick to learn! ) Others will advocate carbide tips, either brazed or replaceable.

All have their pros and cons. Some of us use a mixture to sut what we are doing.

I have found brazed carbide tips VERY easy to chip, so avoid them (that might be me being clumsy

Carbide needs to run at high speed to work well (The normal moulded types are not REALLY sharp, the ground ones are better) Carbide relies on a lot of heat being generated at the cutting edge to soften the metal.

For maching hardened steel or chilled cast iron they are vital HSS literally won't cut it.

HSS can be ground at home, and you don't suffer the frustration of chipping the last carbide tip at 8 pm on a Saturday night. Yoiu get get boutb the bench grinder and resharpen the HSS tool!

Some of use love Tangential Turning Tools. Thes use a HSS toolbit. My first toolbit lasted form about 4 nyears w before becoming too short for hold for regrinding. For the price of one replaceable carbide iti you can buy a short HSS toolbit.But you have to do the sharpening. It is more forgiving, but won't shift metal as fast as Carbide.

You pays your money and makes your choice.

What do I use|?

For most turning / facing: a Tangential Turning Tool. (Needs a simple jig for grinding and definitely needs a Centre Height Gauge for setting the toolbit )

For roughing: a replaceable Carbide tip

Form Boring: , a replaceable Carbide tip.

So a foot in both camps.

HTH

Howard

.

Edited By Howard Lewis on 05/08/2022 22:28:05

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Interesting work you are doing. The project you describe and the tolerance of one thou are easily achievable on any common lathe in good nick. Myford ML7, Boxford, Raglan etc in good condition. Boxford has the larger bore spindle and is a heavier lathe than Myfords and usually pretty good value for money. And of course there is any number of new Chinese lathes that could do the job too, but my knowledge of them is very limited. But mates who have the larger ones (300mm diameter swing etc) use them for some pretty serious work and within a thou no problem. More of a set and forget proposition than rebuilding an oldie, although sometimes the Chinese ones can need a bit of initial fettling, I am told.

You should be able to adjust the bearings on your existing Myford. Which "M" is it? M-Type, or ML1-4 or 7? M-Types and ML7s have adjustable headstock bearings and can do very accurate work when nice and tight. Use a fixed steady to get around the small hole up the spindle centre. Worn tailstock body is harder to fix. Either bore it out and make a larger quill. That was a common mod on M-Types to convert them to MT2 from MT1 tailstock. Or buy a good used tailstock.

EDIT: I see from your previous posts its an M-Type. Procedure for adjusting headstock bearings is available in the FILES section of the Drummondlathe group on groups.io LINK

And re Chinese lathes, the Sieg SC4 gets good raps from owners on this forum, as does service from its supplier Arc Eurotrade.

Although, if this is you  LINK I can see how an old Brit lathe would fit in with the heritage print shop and tweed looms!

Edited By Hopper on 04/08/2022 11:43:59

[Chris MurphyParticipant @chrismurphy94983]

Hi, hope someone can help.

im having a bit of a nightmare using this new parting tool that I bought from arceurotrade.

I haven’t been able to part properly with it yet and have already broke the original blade, good job I ordered a spare with it. I’ve tried all 3 speeds of my Myford ml7 lathe, still without any good results, just keep getting chatter or the chuck stopping and wedging into the tool, thats how I broke the blade that came with it.

as you can see in the photos, the blade is spot on the centre cutting height, it’s an 8mm by 10 tool holder and lines up perfectly, so I can’t understand why it’s not cutting through properly.

hope someone can tell me what I’m doing wrong, would I be better using a Hss parting tool instead.

thanks

chris m…

Edited By JasonB on 03/08/2022 18:22:48

[Trevor Drabble 1Participant @trevordrabble1]

Steve , For your bellows , I would suggest you try Arc Eurotrade or Machgard in Rotherham .

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Touch off methods fundamentally assume that there are no infelicities in workpiece mounting, tool grind or cutting behaviour that may affect the relationship between touch position and the edges of the actual cut. It is of course a given that the tool and work be sufficiently stiff not to deflect when the (gentle) touch is made. Like many folk I find the "just tears cigarette paper "or "drag a feeler gauge out of the gap" methods give a better feel for precise touch off than simply bringing the tool down onto workpiece or reference for those jobs that have to be so right that even Inspector Meticulous may smile, briefly.

Nice thing about the known error method is that all infelicities are eliminated because measurements and settings are referenced to an actual cut.

Its also generally quicker.

Eye up cutter for a suitable sweep across a sacrificial component or set up dummy to make the D.

If you have one set DRO to zero, use a different memory if need be so you don't loose important datums.

Measure depth of D and height of flat above table. (Verify that the results are consistent. I'm a great fan of paired check measurements as the habit has saved me significant time when a set-up wasn't what I thought it ought to have been.)

Move cutter so as to bring it to the calculated correct position.

Make a second check cut on another sacrificial or dummy component. If its wrong figure out what your error was and start over, otherwise go into production.

There may be some parallel universe where slitting saws are universally renowned for their stiffness, flatness, accuracy, good behaviour in cut and general tolerance of all but the most grievous mishandling. Where ever it is it's far enough away that the light hasn't got to my workshop yet!

Touching off an affordable slitting saw in an affordable holder is a prime example of the sort of job where I want an easier way to be accurate. My slitting saws and holder came from ArcEurotrade a decade or more ago so they are decent and were good value for money but lack the ultimate accuracy of high end industrial products.

Clive

[Robert Atkinson 2Participant @robertatkinson2]

Another example of excellent customer service fro ARC Euro Trade today. They called my wife to ask what sort of work I was likely to be doing becuse the mill she ordered was designed more for "electronics" work than traditionsl model making.
She was able to assure them that I am "electronic" in my hobby (and work).

Great example of somone at ARC actually thinking about the order and not just ticking the box.

Robert G8RPI.

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Posted by Nicholas Wheeler 1 on 27/07/2022 17:17:35:

There wasn't much of America in 1803….

There may not have been much but some of what there was is due to Marc as he was engaged in building New York docks and other projects before he came to England. Who knows what he might have seen that influenced him.

One argument that I have have read states that the US embraced mass production because there was a shortage of skilled labour because most of the immigrants were agricultural workers from the edges of Europe with little heritage in the mechanical arts.

Rod

[Robert Atkinson 2Participant @robertatkinson2]

Posted by Bob Unitt 1 on 27/07/2022 14:43:33:

Posted by Robert Atkinson 2 on 27/07/2022 11:51:41:

OK, this is weird.

I've been looking at mills for sale and I just took a telephone call from ARC Eurotrade asking for SWMBO by name. SWMBO would not know a mill from lathe if her life depended on it. We do have an anniversary coming up though.

Robert G8RPI.

Have you got a birthday coming up ?

No , she got me a spectrum analyser for my birthday. This would be wedding anniversary

[Graham MeekParticipant @grahammeek88282]

Hi Jamie,

Some how I do not see your first sentence coming to fruition, but it is a nice thought on your part.

I am just in the process of making a Jpg of the drawing for this Handwheel bearing mod, maybe I can post it later today.

As regards the spares there is a considerable amount still available, even a new lathe Bed. There are two different versions as regards the Carriage, one Metric and the other Imperial. The cost at the moment is 108 Euro's for the metric one. Which I thought was good value for a new part. Postage is about 28-29 Euro, and as regards the import duty I think this is on a sliding scale. How it is worked out I have not got a clue. My order came to more than the above 108 Euro, and of course they have to add in a "Handling Charge" which was £12 on its own in my case. You actually pay Parcel Force what is due.

I hope this helps?

Regards

Gray.

Hi Howard,

I am humbled by your comments.

My Father was responsible for the standard of work I produce. He gave me the desire to always look to do a better job and the skills to do it with. Plus I had some of the best training available during my apprenticeship.

Having been used to a better machine in the Maximat Super 11, the Compact 5 is now reaching a standard at which I am more than happy with. This machine continues to surprise me as regards it's accuracy, what work it can do and the finish it produces. Obviously you do not watch the clock as things take a bit longer than they did, but I am beginning to enjoy my machine time more.

Regards

Gray,

[Bob Unitt 1Participant @bobunitt1]

Posted by Robert Atkinson 2 on 27/07/2022 11:51:41:

OK, this is weird.

I've been looking at mills for sale and I just took a telephone call from ARC Eurotrade asking for SWMBO by name. SWMBO would not know a mill from lathe if her life depended on it. We do have an anniversary coming up though.

Robert G8RPI.

Have you got a birthday coming up ?

[Robert Atkinson 2Participant @robertatkinson2]

OK, this is weird.

I've been looking at mills for sale and I just took a telephone call from ARC Eurotrade asking for SWMBO by name. SWMBO would not know a mill from lathe if her life depended on it. We do have an anniversary coming up though.

Robert G8RPI.

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi Martin, I have a ER11 Collet chuck (Arc Eurotrade) which I've used several times when I've had my ER32 collet chuck fitted onto my lathe with total success, saves changing the the chuck when you have further work to do with the ER32 one, and I've also used it in my mini mill for the same reason, so in my opinion, this was not a waste of money for myself. However, it will reduce your working gap in both lathe and milling machine.

Also by having a smaller nut, you can negotiate around holding down clamps on the milling machine easier when you are using a small short cutter.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 27/07/2022 08:36:55

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Posted by David George 1 on 24/07/2022 09:09:51:

I ordered a M2 dead center as the M1 dead center and M1 – M2 sleeve was to long for bed of mill. It was ordered about 11.00 pm Thursday night. It arrived by post 9.30 Saturday morning. Arc Euro Trading delivers again.

David

Most companies send out same day if they receive the order before a certain cut-off time, after that its all down to the delivery method. Large companies like RS and Farnell accept orders up to about 7pm and deliver next day.

I regularly used to order from a company in Warsaw who took orders up to 2pm, charged a fixed £7 for next day courier delivery and I was only let down once out of twenty or so orders due to a flight/airport delay. Unfortunately they no longer deal with private UK customers and for some reason they do not sell some of their products (even to account holders) in the UK. (Of course this has nothing whatever to do with Brexit!)

Ian P

[David George 1Participant @davidgeorge1]

I ordered a M2 dead center as the M1 dead center and M1 – M2 sleeve was to long for bed of mill. It was ordered about 11.00 pm Thursday night. It arrived by post 9.30 Saturday morning. Arc Euro Trading delivers again.

David

[Dr_GMJNParticipant @dr_gmjn]

Cutters arrived today. I went with Jason’s suggestion for types, and got them from Arc Euro Trade. I’ve had a few of the Premium series from them before, and they were very good. I’ve bitten the bullet and ditched the majority of my existing cutters (apart from the known good ones – which I checked on some scrap aluminium). So hopefully there are now no question marks over cutters, should I have any more milling issues.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Cutters

If we stick with HSS for steel & iron then I've suggested 3-flute cutters many a time as good all rounders, ARC used to be a bit expensive in the smaller sizes but at the moment their prices are good just like the cutters so the Premium 3-flute standard length cutters would be what I suggest from them. Prior to ARC's price reduction then these from APT were a good buy – you need to add VAT to those prices so not such a good buy now.

For aluminium then the cutters specifically for it work well and also on brass and bronze. I tend to use the carbide ones, all that bearing base and cap were done with a 10mm one of these which has had a lot of use and still going strong. You could also go HSS as the Carbide can be a bit delicate if you are not careful. Another Carbide option would be the 3-flute from APT which I use on the CNC

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

If you want a direct replacement, look at Arc Euro Trade for C2 and C3 spares.

At one time, both motors and control boards were available.

Howard