Search Results for 'arc euro'

[RooossoneParticipant @rooossone]

Posted by JasonB on 13/07/2023 20:56:10:

All the ARC machines tell you overall space required to operate, look at the last image of 7

If that is the case then you only need just over half a meter squared!

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

All the ARC machines tell you overall space required to operate, look at the last image of 7

[RooossoneParticipant @rooossone]

Moving seems like a novel idea in this day and age. I will never own a house, I am stuck renting and have a pretty sweet deal where I am at now. The modern cost of living sucks.

Yeah you definitely should get a 4-jaw scroll chuck. pretty much a requirement!

There are definitely plenty of lathe centric projects out there you can do to keep you occupied until you get your mill situation sorted.

I was just having a look at the arc website and came across this…..SIEG SX2PG Mill

It looks ideal for the space you have……

It's details….

Table Longitudinal Travel

330mm

Width	515mm
Depth	560mm

So assuming the width does not take in to account the travel, you just add 330mm to the width, this is around 85cm (150mm of travel on each side) That is a very small footprint.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Being of oriental origin (Taiwan or China ) the gears are most likely to be Module., and as Jason says Mod 1, Mod 1.25 or Mod 1.5

On my larger Taiwanese lathe, (Think Warco BH600 or Chester Craftsman ) the changewheels are 1.25 Mod , and the pinion that engages with the rack on the bed is 1.5 Mod )

The chances are that the same lathe will have been imported by others, such as Warco, Chester, or Arc Euro etc, spare gears shoulkd be available.

Often changewheels increment in 5s, starting at 25 or 30 teeth, and going up to 80T.

The Sieg SC4 includes a 127T gear so that despite having a Metric Leadscew, it can cut Imperial threads.

Even id you don't want to cut Imperial threads, a set of changewheels will allow you to set up for a dine feed.

Most mini lathes have two 20T and two 80T wheels in their set, and allows a feed rate of 0.09375 mm per rev to be set, which should be sufficiently fine for most purp[oses.

If you have just one of the changewheels, certainly the driving pinion under the tumbler reverse, you can measure vthe OD in mm, and countbthe teeth.

The formula is : Diameter = (Tooth Count + 2 )/ Module.

Thus a 30 tooth Mod 1 gear would be 32 mm OD

Once you are certain of the Module, you should be able to find replacements. The chances are that the bore and thickness will be the same.

The 1 Mod gears for the mini lathe, (and probably it's smaller sisters ) are plastic, bur Arc Euro can supply metal ones, if you so require. I think that the S4 uses metal gears

HTH

Howard.

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

Good Heavens! I'll stick with my other Renault (a Kangoo – just as daft a name!). At least Renault has the benefit of a vast accumulation of expertise, experience, facilities and Francs – sorry, Euros..

.

Please don't mis-read me, Dave; but I take your point about the problem of long breaks. Especially in trying to learn something so difficult before you can even draw the simplest part, let alone the entirety, of an antique machine.

It's two different problems anyway, one CAD (just drawing it) the other Design (working out how to make it).

.

I had started transferring from TurboCAD to Alibre because I thought the latter easier, as a trial revealed. However, all of the drawings I had made for the project are still in TurboCAD so I need keep that alive even if I make all new drawings in Alibre.

Or revert to manual draughting… having dismantled my drawing-board beyond restoring, in a fit of digital over-optimism!

I can usually use TC orthographically to a basic but adequate level, but find its 3D mode impossible; hence deciding to move to the simpler Alibre whose 3D modelling will generate the orthographic elevations for workshop use, from the model. TC will too, of course, but in a far more obscure manner.

Whichever package I use though, I could never draw the whole lorry in 3D CAD. Simple parts, maybe, but that's all.

.

That's the CAD answered, but it only adds horrendous extra difficulty between designing and making the thing.

Now the Design – a skill different again from "just" drawing the items.

.

Yes, I should have designed the lorry from the outset, but the first obstacle was big discrepancies between the assorted scraps of archive material I have collected – over several years – due to the makers varying the vehicles, and sometimes giving trade-magazine reviewers specifications for models other than the physical review sample. (That alone held me up for some three or four years.)

Then I had to learn how to replicate an ancient wagon from a few old advertisements, early 20C general-engineering text-books, and modern model-engineering literature.

Quite a few people said I was brave to take on a project like that when plenty of successful alternatives exist, designed in miniature form by professional model-engineers having access to original works drawings and surviving prototypes. (Drawings made by hand, using loose squares on elm boards…) .

I soon realised I was going nowhere until I started cutting steel, but could not have foreseen future problems. Narrowing the front of the chassis too far back, cramps the machinery space; worsened by the driving-chain being a bit too far inboard. I had the boiler built commercially but not realised the implications of its peculiar shape and being under-scale for the chassis width and smokebox diameter. I machined the cylinder, passage and ports from a solid block, but failed to consider the battle for space by all the studs, starting-valve, external inlets and outlets, etc.

All mistakes I have to live with and work around. I never claimed accuracy to the last nth rivet!

'

When I started the project it would have been unique. Since then I know of one other model of similar scale and a full-size replica having been completed in a fraction of the time I have spent so far, and now fear never finishing it – and don't know if it will work if I do.

Yes, the Cardboard Aided Draughting would certainly have helped but I did not realise that until far too late!.

[Dick BriggsParticipant @dickbriggs86389]

Hello, new here so be gentle, I am just about to buy a SH Axminster BV20M lathe, but unfortunately it has no change gears for screw cutting and having tried Axminster and ARC euro trade I haven't been able to find or even cross-reference any other lathes that may use the same gear set, as I am lead to believe that it is Chinese in origin and may be the same as several other lathes, so as there are a lot of very knowledgeable people here I thought I would ask in the hope of finding something to fit.

[Simon Williams 3Participant @simonwilliams3]

Matthew, thanks for letting us know we got there!

One final thought to put this one to bed, and that is that it probably wasn't a coincidence that your Dad was playing tunes on the gearbox drive train. It's a well established practice and allows a wide variety of thread pitches not advertised on the gearbox top label to be achieved.

Brian Wood (yes the Brian who corrected my silly error earlier with such tact and poise!) has written a book on the subject. It's title is "Gearing of Lathes for Screwcutting" published by Crowood Metalworking Guides. Amazon have copies, I believe Arc Euro have sold it as well. Quite apart from being an interesting read it's the definitive work on the science behind altering the gear train to make the lathe much more versatile. It majors on the S7 but other makes and models get a mention.

Enjoy!

Simon

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

RDG are just using generic images for a range of tools. the one in the link is showing an SCLCR holder where the last "R" signifies it is for right hand use. ARC have it engraved onto the tool

[Robin GrahamParticipant @robingraham42208]

Posted by Bill Phinn on 05/07/2023 22:13:30:

[…]

Incidentally, there is clearly disagreement in the industry over which is a left hand turning tool and which a right. Arceurotrade's naming convention is the one I follow, but Garvin Tools [linked to above] and others I have seen reverse this.

Edited By Bill Phinn on 05/07/2023 22:32:15

Not sure if you have your tongue firmly in your cheek Bill, but in case not the 'others I have seen link' (Myford aka RDG) advertises an LH tool with a picture of an RH tool. Scrolling down they show the corresponding RH tool with – erm – exactly the same image.

Robin.

[Bill PhinnParticipant @billphinn90025]

Thanks for the further answers.

Dalboy, the two Warco diagram pages give the names of some of the tools in my set. However, the actual selection of tools shown and named in those diagrams doesn't correspond exactly with either the tools I have or the tools Warco have shown in the accompanying photographs!

Incidentally, there is clearly disagreement in the industry over which is a left hand turning tool and which a right. Arceurotrade's naming convention is the one I follow, but Garvin Tools [linked to above] and others I have seen reverse this.

 

Edited By Bill Phinn on 05/07/2023 22:32:15

[s dParticipant @sd79178]

Posted by Andrew Johnston on 04/07/2023 14:24:04:

I'm not clear exactly which cutters from Arc are being used? I have not used their HSS cutters, but have tried their premium carbide endmills and was impressed.

The cutting parameters should be fine, but I suspect the mill column isn't stiff enough. Of course HSS cutters are less stiff than carbide so the cutter itself might be flexing as well.

Andrew

I believe it's these, which are 3 flute not 4, my mistake… the rougher I bought was 4 flute.

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Milling-Cutters/ARC-Premium-HSS-AL-End-Mills/3-Flute-HSS-AL-End-Mill-Long-Series-TiAlN-Coated

edit – standard length not long

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Milling-Cutters/ARC-Premium-HSS-AL-End-Mills/3-Flute-HSS-AL-End-Mill-Standard-Length-TiAlN-Coated

I tried a carbide 5mm, 3 flute at 500 rpm plus I cranked a bit faster and got better results.. thanks!

I've no doubt wrecked the HSS ones with too high rpm. But the lower speed and faster feed does seem to improve things.

I could sand out the ridges more easily, but I'd like to have none! Will investigate rigidity further.

Edited By s d on 04/07/2023 14:43:57

[Dr_GMJNParticipant @dr_gmjn]

Posted by JasonB on 01/07/2023 18:12:27:

But with new Myfords in the range of £10-15K you would be having to look at the £5-10K price range for a X2 size mill of similar build, Half way house would be a Wabeco 1200 at £3-5K. It's just a case of you get what you pay for and that fine fitting is included in the retail price.

Yes, I was thinking more used price rather than new.

I think I remember someone saying that Arc Euro used to offer a fitting/fettling service for their machines, but they stopped doing it. I’m notoriously bad at mis-remembering things like that, but pretty sure that was the case?

[Ex contributorParticipant @mgnbuk]

I am mulling over changing my Super 7B for a Warco GH600 & would be interested in the current opinions of users of these machines. There was a quite extensive thread on here in 2019 ( https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=142769 ) where the opinions were predominantly positive, but there is little else around – a couple of YouTube posters is about it.

These machines seem to be available from several European sellers (Bernado Profi 600G, Pauilmot PM3700 as examples ) and the manufacturer would possibly be CJ Machinery. ( http://cjmachine.net/ProductsShow.asp?Probid=1707 ). Weiss do make gear head machines, but they appear to be different to the CJ machine (different spindle speeds & gearchange arrangements). YouTube videos about the Bernado & Paulimot machines noted above also appear to be largely positive. There do not appear to be any other UK sellers of Chinese gearhead machines of this size (250 – 280 swing) other than Warco.

Reasons for considering a swap are mainly to get power cross feed on a native Metric machine with a screwcutting gearbox. I can work in either Metric or Imperial, but prefer Metric & the majority of threads I wish to cut are Metric ( a bit of a pain on the S7B, though I do have the Metric kit for it). I would like power cross feed to reduce discomfort in my right hand following surgery on it last year – it sort-of works, but gets uncomfortable during longer periods of use. A bonus here is power long feed becomes independant of the leadscrew. The spindle drive & control arrangements are very similar to the various Harriosn lathes I have used since starting work (L5, 140, M300 & VS330), so would take no re-learning.

Disadvantages of the GH600 appear to be the bolt-on chucks – a bit of a pain to change chucks & only a shallow parallel spigot for location ? – and an incomplete range of Imperial threads available as supplied. The Imperial threads bit probably isn't an issue, but Sod's Law usually dictates that first need to cut an Imperial thread would be one that can't be set.

I don't want to go down the ex-industrial route – it would be a choice of staying as I am with the Myford or changing for a new machine. I am looking for a tool to use with minimal fettling, not another project with high spares & accessory prices. I have owned the Myford for around 25 years & it is in good order, with minimal wear & comprehensively equipped. In an ideal world would keep it in addition to the GH600 (if I go that route) but, unfortunately, don't have the space to do so. And I don't want to go for a machine with a much larger footprint – the GH600 isn't much bigger overall than the S7B, so would slot in to the space the Myford currently occupies.

I did consider getting a similar capacity varaiable speed model with power crossfeed (Warco, Chester or Amadeal), but really don't want a closed source, no name, no information available "brushless" drive & the inverter drive models are about the same cost (when a stand is added) as the GH600 – plus they don't have a screwcutting gearbox. Easier to add an Rocketronics ELS solution maybe – a valid alternative solution to a screwcutting gearbox – but that is getting into the "another project" scenario.

Sorry for the ramble, any feedback that would help sway my decision one way or the other will be welcome.

Nigel B.

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

Get a bearing puller set. Even a 20 euro one will help

You use them once in a blue moon but they make an awkward job ridiculously easy

for some reason you need to hammer the snot out of a pulley to get it to move and yet they slide off easy-peasy when you use a puller

Check for sneaky grub screws if it still refuses to budge

Edited By Ady1 on 30/06/2023 20:10:23

[Adam MaraParticipant @adammara]

From years of experience buy as big as you can sfford and have space for. I have a Sieg SX2 mill which has given over 10 years of service. I purchased a Sieg sx2.7 from Arc Eurotrade a few years ago, a great machine, but moving it is a 2 man operation.

[David George 1Participant @davidgeorge1]

Hi Grant welcome to the forum. There are many small mills about but you should look at ARC https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/ or have a look at Chester hobby store. https://www.chesterhobbystore.com

The drive for your boxford lathe I think should be fairly easy, there are many makes and if you look here https://inverterdrive.com/Contact/ you shoukd get an idea of costs involved and that have downloads of how to install a drive and set up for free. There are other supliers around as well which may be cheaper but they can help with most queries on the phone or email.

David

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Arc Euro sell fuses dor the C2 and C3 lathes (Which is what your Chester Conquest is; a Sieg )

They shpuld be able to advise you, and supply what you meed.

For a motor that is reported to draw 1.6 Amps, a 2 Amp might not withstand the start up surge, but asl Ian or Ketan at Arc.

Howard,

[Robert Atkinson 2Participant @robertatkinson2]

I'm a very recent convert to Evaporust. I've not tried Oxalic acid but a bit of research indicates that it is significantly more hazardous than Evaporust. Just on warning pictograms Evaporust has the caution (exclamation mark) symbol but Oxalic acid add skin burns and ecological hazard. It also seems to be more likely to case damage to the item being de-rusted if left too long.
Looking at my usual suppliers Oxalic acid is not significantly cheaper. Now I'm normally anti "brand name" products (why does anyone buy Neurofen instead of generic Ibuprofen. Retorical question please don't answer) and like a bargain but Evaporust and oxalic acid are not the same and I'll pay the extra for the ease of use and safety of the branded product.

Robert.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

I don't recognise the collet type, but the photo suggests the problem might be akin to the classic ER booby trap. Many of us on first using an ER collet holder miss the need to start by inserting the collet at an angle so it clicks into a ring at the bottom. Only after the collet has clicked in will it tighten properly.

Arc Euro have a good description, it's under the 'More' tab.

Also, don't put anything in the collet until the holder is mounted on the machine. I've found it can make tightening awkward.

Dave

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

You should be able to buy HSS toolbits from almost any model engineering supplier.

In UK, Arc Euro Trade, RDG, Warco, Chronos to name a few. Shipping from UK, might exceed the cost of the toolbits, though. Although one or two may well fit into a padded envelope to be posted as a letter.

The books mentioned will show the angles at which the tools should be ground.

For most purposes, the angles are not so critical that adegree or two either waywill cause problems.

Since you are in NZ, the Eccentric Engineering Diamond tool may be more easily, and cheaply, available than in UK, (Since the UK agent ceased trading ) from Australia. This uses 1/4" toolbits.

The designs published in M E W used 1/8" toolbits.

Howard

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

Maurits,

How much does the tool protrude from the toolholder? Too much and the tool will waggle about like a waggly thing and dig-ins will follow. As you are using a 250-000 QCTP tool holder, you could invest in an HSS cut-off blade such as This one from ArcEuroTrade. It has the top relief already ground into it and will presumably fit straight into your toolholder. As has been said, use lubrication, slowish speed and steady infeed.

John

[BobParticipant @bob17059]

The BT30 to Morse No.2 adaptor arrived today. Fits perfectly! No problem with passage of drawbar. Many thanks to all who took the time to respond to my question and especially Ketan and the staff at ARCEurotrade. Excellent service.

Bob

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, after ordering a 12 to 90 Live Bull Nose Centre from Arceurotrade yesterday morning, it arrived this morning, and was put to work this afternoon.

More good service from them.

Regards Nick.

[Julius Henry MarxParticipant @juliushenrymarx92355]

Hello:

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 18/06/2023 17:53:39:

… forgive the digression …

No problem, today is still Sunday so all is forgiven. But tomorrow is another day, so standard rules apply. 8^)

… Unimat has a certain mystique …

Indeed …

Both certain and unjustified, save only because of the hype and the scarcity, combination which turned it into a collector's item.

In the same catalogue I mentioned previously, a ten piece 1.0 to 8.0 mm ES-16 type collet set (part #152 200) was offered for US$375.00 with additional collets (0.5-1.00 mm to 7.0-8.0 mm) went for US$38.50 each.

A small fortune. I don't have a date for the catalogue but I'd wager that it is post Emco discontinuing the Unimat 3.

That said, Emco still has some Unimat 3 parts for sale. Their webpage (German language only) has the newer ESX16 version of the chuck (M14x1 thread) for €63.60.

The original OEM E-16 collets were standard Schaublin fare ie: very good but quite expensive, as all good quality precision tools are.

Emco sill has a 15 piece (?) set of ESX25 collets in 0.5-1.00 mm (?) to 15-16 mm (?) sizes for €180.00 but I don't who the OEM is.

Thanks for your input.

Best,

JHM

Edited By Julius Henry Marx on 18/06/2023 19:29:12