Search Results for 'arc euro'

[derek hall 1Participant @derekhall1]

I have been using Dickson style toolpost and holders on my Myford S7 for years, ever since my apprenticeship and experience in industry. The thought of faffing with shims of varying thickness put me off that route very early on in my career.

However I am well aware that it is not the best toolpost design especially for the Myford, some of my holders never seem to hold the tool height once removed, but it is still quicker to reset the height than hunting around for shims.

Fast forward to now, I am considering changing this style of toolpost to the "piston" style as advertised by Arc Euro as this seems to be a much better rigid tooling system than the Dickson where there is a lot of unsupported overhang.

What do others think about this potential upgrade?, any experience good or bad?

All the best

Del

[DC31kParticipant @dc31k]

With Rocol, you are paying for an extensive marketing department.

Any neat cutting oil will be 95% or more the same formulation.

ArcEuro sell RockOil's version.

Random searches turned up these:

CT90 (I have used their aerosol one and it is acceptable)

Sherwood STD (from Zoro). Price looks good.

Morris MCT (I have used this and it is acceptable)

Look to the smaller, independent oil companies, e.g Rye oils, Westway, Smith and Allen, all through eBay. The product is sold by everyone; the difficulty is finding it in less than 205 litre multiples.

Buying in 5 litre quantity is a lot cheaper than 500ml.

[BobParticipant @bob17059]

Many thanks to all who replied to my question. I will buy the Arceurotrade item as this seems to be the thing I need. I was sure I had seen similar before but could not remember where.

The boring head in question is a Lytton Automatic Boring and Facing Head. As far as I can determine the Morse taper shank is integral with the body of the head. I also have various odds and end of Morse No. 2 tooling by Arrand and Lussington so it is worth my while sorting this out.

Personally speaking I would not rely on the Morse taper without a draw bar especially when interrupted cuts are envisioned such as typical when fly cutting.

Bob

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

People do make what is needed

Sounds like your existing adaptor is for tang type tooling but you want the one Jelly links to which has a through hole for a drawbar

[JellyParticipant @jelly]

Posted by Bazyle on 15/06/2023 23:37:34:

Arceuro had int30 adaptors a few years back.

Looks like they still have them in stock.

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Arceuro had int30 adaptors a few years back.

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Rooossone, have you considered this book? Lathework for beginner's much more up to date than Sparey's one.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 15/06/2023 12:35:34

[Taf_PembsParticipant @taf_pembs]

I'd like to know how we are going to charge all these electric cars when we 'have' to have them..?

We currently either generate too much power (as has been said) so have to pay wind turbine owners / operators not to produce (but with this it would not meet the needs if everyone had battery cars) or we have to import power because there is no wind!

Nuclear is crazy expensive, especially long term and thanks to our culture of litigation and arse covering we have invented a whole industry for so called 'health and safety' people to think up ways to stop people doing anything.. Other countries round Europe don't seem to be in our position .. christ, a small archaeological group out in a field in the middle of nowhere with a paint brush and a pointing trowel.. fencing, safety boots, high viz and hard hats.. what the hell is going to fall on their heads .. the sky??!! but someone in an office (who invariably has never actually done anything but has an IOSH / NEBOSH and no common sense) has said they have to ware them for H & S reasons and to comply with company policy.. we really have gone mad and are now breeding stupidity into people.

Just look at Hinkley Point.. crazy over budget, miles behind schedule .. I know a few that work there. One of which was prevented from going on site (subcontractor) for 'H&S' reasons .. they had the wrong colour lanyards on their site passes (supplied by Hinkley) – took 2 days to to get right colour (whilst being paid).

If it spins round and looks like it will hurt – don't put your hand in it… sorry, going off on one there!!

 

If half the subsidies / investment was made into tidal power generation (there is beginning to be some, certainly where I live but most are experimental).

Tidal power turbines spaced around the country will always have some of them at peak tidal flow there for full power generation with all the others either reducing or ramping up (but still able to produce significant amounts of power).

More so, tidal flow is predictable hundreds of years into the future.. we know exactly how much we can generate and where.

Scale would be something of an issue but the energy in the moving tide means you need far fewer turbines per population than wind.

 

Back to electric cars, how are all these people who live on terraced streets going to charge them? Extension leads out over the pavement? who is liable when someone trips over the cable!

We are going to need dozens and dozens of charge points at service stations in order for everyone to be able to get where they are going in a reasonable time, only takes a couple of minutes to fill an ICE car up with juice and peoples convenience is what makes them go with something or not.. sales of EV's are dropping fairly rapidly if the news is to believed (sky news call in / survey) – cost of charging (more expensive than driving a diesel in some cases), unable to find enough charge points for journeys ..etc etc but the biggle they were quoting is resale value.. vast majority of people who responded who owned or had owned an EV (while I was watching – about an hour and a half) said EV were a massive White Elephant rather than the future.

I suppose we need technology – especially battery – to move forward a bit before it is truly viable.

What about the distribution network ? If every house in my village had a proper charge point fitted then Western Power would probably have to upgrade the whole overhead supply to the village and certainly from the transformer through the underground to the houses, it's on it's knees as it is.. and that's just 1 village.

 

I'm all for change for the better but lets get a grip of the real heavy polluters first..

China, India, US etc. I know they are beginning to change but they are the main issue.

 

As for carbon offsetting by planting trees.. what an utter joke. 78% failure rate for the new trees (from country file I believe)..

 

Sorry… I'll get mi coat.. Anyone what this box?

Edited By Taf_Pembs on 13/06/2023 08:36:12

Edited By Taf_Pembs on 13/06/2023 08:36:52

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

You do need to rock the Emcomat8.4 lead screw handwheel back and forth as you push and pull the speed selector to make the gears line up, if you don't do that you may not be fully engaging the gear. I used to have an 8.6

The versatile vices on ARC's site can actually hold larger items than the precision type by reconfiguring the jaw positions, the FB2 is unlikely to be able to take large enough cuts to worry about the force pulling work out of the shallower gripping area so don't rule them out on size of opening, 80mm jaw width one would do on the FB2. Put the swivel base under the bench and make use of the premachined location slots for quick and easy set up of the vice

As for cutters to get started I would suggest 3-flute as they are good all rounders, say 6 & 10mm to get you going either ARC Premium or those done by APT in HSS to start with. If you are going to be doing a lot of work with aluminium and other non ferrous metals then worth getting the geometry specific ones again in HSS from ARC or APT but move upto carbide on these as soon as you have the hang of things in which case I would also go for the 3-flute option, you are never going to be removing the volume of material that the 2-flute ones allow with a 2000rpm top speed

As for a Chamfer cutter, these ones work OK and you can also use them as a spotting drill and small countersink, I would say 6mm to start with.

For surfacing at one time I would have said use a fly cutter but these days I think an indexable face/shell mill is the way to go BUT use it with inserts designed for aluminium/non ferrous on ALL metals as this puts a lot less strain on the smaller hobby machines. 40 or 50mm one of these and an arbor in MT2 size and this type of insert for all.

You don't say what if anything came with the machine to hold the cutters, don't use a drill chuck.

Edited By JasonB on 11/06/2023 19:15:14

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

Welcome to the forum, I would look at the Arc Euro site for some cutters and suitable holders. Also, you would do better to practice using some aluminium barstock,square or round. This will not tend to damage the cutters if you make a mistake. The aluminium will need a slight lubrication from something like WD40 to prevent it sticking to the cutting edges. Steel will also need slight lubrication with a tiny ammount of oil, tapping fluid would do to extend the cutter life. There are several good online sources of practical help, as you have found, some can be very advanced.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Mouse

It's a truism that model engineer and home shop machinery is frequently required to handle jobs that objectively are too large for the machine. Something that needs to be born in mind when selecting work holding and tooling. Most important when considering a milling machine because everything goes inside the work envelope

Before finally purchasing tooling and work holding for your mill it's worth doing some drawings to see how much space the various options leave you. Many folk buy a vice with a rotating base and habitually leave the rotary base off to get an inch or so extra clearance under the head.

For example by small machine standards a 1/2" or 12.5 mm drill and chuck is a very long assembly hanging below the head. Its a right pain if you have to pull everything off, remove the base from the vice and put it all back to get that 1/4'' or 6 mm clearance the drill needs to get into the right position. All users of small machines doing small jobs should seriously consider investing in sub drills. Seem excessive to pay for 4", 100 mm, of drilling depth capability when your thickest job is only ever going to be 1/2", 12.5 mm. Endless other examples in the same vein.

Vertical clearance is the obvious one but side and longitudinal clearance can also be important.

Looking at the ArcEurotrade website **LINK**

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Machine-Vices

The two, readily available new, vice styles of interest for general use are the ordinary screw operated ones and what Arc call the precision vice type 2.

The screw operated ones have less opening for any given jaw width and body size than the precision ones because the moving jaw base needs to be quite long for accurate movement and stability.

The precision type is tightened by an angled socket head screw pulling the moving jaw forwards and downwards making it very stable at the cost of limited travel. So the nut underneath has to be arranges so it can take up a number of positions giving coarse adjustment. Which is not only less convenient than a single long screw but also frustrating when you set them coarse position wrong and have to move the nut before the vice will tighten up.

The precision vices are expensive due to being well made and ground all over so they can be used turned on their side if need be. Affordability is a relatively recent thing. Back in the day such were purely industrial market devices and priced accordingly as the modular vices originally designed for CNC work still are. Although import prices are creeping down into merely painful territory.

The shallowest, relatively findable, type of vice is the industrial style originally introduced by Taylor having a free sliding moveable jaw clamped by a screw in a sort of Y shaped assembly engaging with rack teeth on the top of the vice base. Strong and durable but now seriously obsolete for industrial use they often appear on E-Bay, Facebook et al for reasonable money. The primary installation disadvantage being jaws much narrower than the base.

As ever it's a matter of making a, hopefully informed, decision to pick the best compromise of advantages and disadvantage that can reasonably be afforded. Many folk have found that a smaller, more affordable vice, supplemented by clamps and sacrificial plates to hold oversize work directly on the mill table to be an effective compromise. Disciplined use of the travel stops being important to preserve the table top surface.

The two piece endless vices, whether bought or shop made, can be an effective way of holding oversize jobs too. Tend to be too expensive or need too much work to make unless you really need them tho'.

Clive

Edited By Clive Foster on 11/06/2023 17:43:04

[HOWARDTParticipant @howardt]

Arceurotrade.

[HowiParticipant @howi]

Posted by John Haine on 03/06/2023 20:04:13:

One common factor throughout the time I've been a member here is the poor reliability of these DC motor speed controllers. They are badly designed and made down to a price. I think personally it would be best to junk the controller and replace it with a genuine KB Electronics one or similar – or perhaps replace the motor with one of these nice brushless sewing machine motors and controllers.

your statement is very misleading, there reliability is NOT poor, who knows what users do to them, but I can assure you that bmany thousands of users have no problem with their boards. I have had my lathe now for more than 10 years with no problems despite multiple stall occations.

Remember you ONLY hear about the ones that break, there are far more that don't.

No! they are noit badly designed, yes! they are built to a price as is everything.

I am sure Ketan at Arceuro would have some figures to hand regarding replacedment boards.

Crass cover all statements do not help when someone new to the hobby wants to buy a lathe as they will be worrying unneccessarily about reliability.

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Treated myself to a new SG iron vise from Arc

Its very nice except the handle (see below)

Bottom one came with the new vice

Middle on came with the cheaper Versatile vice

I am not complaining as i made my own handle, top.

Just a pity for such a nice vice to supply a nast finished handle.

Also for anyone thinking if buying the SG vice the handle is 12mm hex as oppsed to 14mm for the Versatile vice here

[MacolmParticipant @macolm]

On further thought, facing the banjo on a diamond "stone" would probably quickly clean up to a sealable surface. It is quite surprising how much better these are than abrasive paper, and they work fine with most metals including brass. An example is Arc Eurotrade 070-030-00300, or from other suppliers, and they are cheaper than files these days. Water can be used as a lubricant, so very convenient to keep the process free of debris.

As you probably already know, to keep the faces parallel simply match the number of strokes one way with the same in the opposite direction, or a similar averaging technique such as a figure of eight pattern.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

An ER16 collet chuck, with a 2 MT taper is available from Arc Euro, (M10m drawbar thread ) and no doubt, from other suppliers.

A quicker and easier, but possibly more expensive (And maybe more accurate? ) solution.

Howard

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

From the most recent thread, on this topic, that I posted on:

I use couple of wedges, one from each side, to loosen the MT, if a light tap (with a white- or yellow-metal mallet) does not free it off. Wedges are strung together to prevent droppage and it only needs the drawbar to be loosened, so the cutter and holder cannot drop out completely until under-control removal.

Has worked, for me, on every occasion. I have a couple of pairs, in two thicknesses, which have covered all my requirements. There used to be MT3 tapers with threaded collars – these collars were tightened against the end of the socket to perform easy removal. Arceurotrade used to stock them but not sure if they do now.

When fitting tapers, make sure they do not get ‘shrink-fitted’ together. Ensuring the male taper is warmer than the socket, or at the same temperature, will avoid this (common?) problem. That is along with not over-tightening the drawbar. Morse tapers generally do not slip under axial load (no drawbar needed for drilling operations).

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

I like your depth-stop design. It would not work in quite the same way on my Myford ML7 and Harrison L5 because those have no protruding threads or other locations on their spindle ends. A version would suit the EW lathe though, as its spindle pinion is retained by a collar held by a grub-screw acting on a flat on the spindle.

.

The top-slide surface on the ML7 is too high to mount a DTI on it directly, so if I want that horizontal and on centre-height I need make some sort of bracket to hold them.

I think the rod set with the magnetic stand is too large and clumsy to use there easily. It also seems to use odd diameters too, as making additional parts for it is very difficult. Almost a case for replacing them completely, but I've too many things to do with too few round-tuits, as it is!

.

Right, time to turn to Ketan's web-site and order that DTI probe set (ARC Euro).

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

I did indeed consider modifying an existing tool, and even put aside for it something from my come-in-handy stock, that appears to be some special tool modified from perhaps a boring-head shank or slitting-saw arbor.

In the event I found a way to complete the immediate task, ending 34 aluminium rods to length; but I still want the depth-stop, and all the above advice has led to me considering my intended design more carefully.

It led too, to examining my two Baty dial test indicators more carefully, to find they both have two probe tips, one hemispherical, the other only slightly convex. I found ARC Euro sell tip sets to fit indicators with standard 4-40 UNF threads: I had not known of that standard. Happily, very careful measuring revealed the two Baty ones are so made.

In extremis a 6BA male thread would probably fit the socket – the diameter and pitches are very close, and the main difference is in the thread angle.

.

After I finished facing the 34-off rods to length and drilling their ends for tapping, I looked at the lathe to gain some idea how to mount the DTI on centre-height. The best way seems an angle-plate that would temporarily replace the QCTP, to put the indicator's fixing lug below the top-slide surface.

So this is one enquiry that went further that I had thought it would!

.

A note on that batch work.

I knew from the outset that drilling the rod ends to depth on the lathe would be very slow, laborious and tedious; and physically awkward and uncomfortable with a conventional tailstock.

So I broke the work into sections thus:

Lathe:

1) Face one end of each sawn blank.

2) Set a depth-stop on the lathe, and face all the second ends.

3) Spot-drill all ends, but drill one to about half-depth (so about 1/2" ).

Bench-drill:

4) Put a 3-jaw chuck on a Myford-accessory nose-piece fitted to a base-plate – I made this a couple of years ago, complete with table-register, to use on the jig-borer. Mount this assembly on the bench-drill, using the drilled rod for alignment, and standard T-slot clamps on the base-plate .

5) Drill all 68 ends to depth, taking advantage of the Meddings machine's speed, sensitive quill and comfortable operating access.

6) Lightly countersink all.

They are now ready for tapping, using a tapping-head on the Progress 2G bench-drill on its low speed. I have already set a Record drill-vice for this but the 3-jaw chuck will be better.

An aluminium-foil pie dish with a central hole makes a reasonable shield to stop most of the chips from falling down the chuck.

Edited By Nigel Graham 2 on 29/05/2023 23:50:12

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Clive Brown 1 on 26/05/2023 20:27:37:

With all due respect to Arc, I'd be reluctant to pay £279 for a 6 – 10 mm drill set. An average of £6.8 per drill. I'd buy cheaper, not too cheap though, and add an imperial, fractional set.

In my opinion, if brand is less significant, this set also from ARC link would be just as good as the Dormer set link, and a lot cheaper.

Ketan at ARC

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Forget the number drill set, the metric sets you list will be sufficient, add a few larger reduced shank "blacksmiths" drills if you want say 16, 20 & 25mm

The 58pc clamp set will do so leave the other bits off for now

6" rotary table may be a bit small on a BP

Get an R8 shank flycutter rather than the 3 small ones or better still a 63mm indexable face/shell mill & arbor

Unless you intend to use 5C on the lathe then ER collets, blocks and a collet chuck may be a better option. I'd also use a ER32 collet chuck rather than the set of R8 collets

Might want to add a boring head to the list

This is what you need

 

 

Edited By JasonB on 26/05/2023 20:19:30

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi Phillip, you need thread gauges to measure the thread you need, e. g. Arc Euro Trade

Get the Metric/Whitworth ones if it is British.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 26/05/2023 19:03:32

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 23/05/2023 18:17:37:

Talking of improperly using inserts, the non-ferrous type sold by Arc Euro work well on steel at hobby machine RPM. It's to do with their shape and sharpness.

Dave

Agreed. They are particularly good for small diameter work.

Russell

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

I buy from Arc Euro, fewer duds! A non-obvious reason perhaps, is the limited range of inserts Arc stock are a good match to hobby requirements. ebay, and other suppliers, often carry a much larger range useful to professionals, but are liable to disappoint a beginner who can't use them properly. Hobby kit is rarely powerful, fast and rigid enough to get the best out of carbide in full metal munching mode. Production machine tools are considerably more powerful, rigid, and faster than ours.)

Talking of improperly using inserts, the non-ferrous type sold by Arc Euro work well on steel at hobby machine RPM. It's to do with their shape and sharpness.

Dave

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Chris,

Sumitomo or Glanze indexable tool holders are good. Arc has Sumitomo with 10mm shank. Chronos stocks Glanze.

Thor

Edited By Thor 🇳🇴 on 23/05/2023 17:35:15