Search Results for 'arc euro'

[VersabossParticipant @versaboss]

John, get a 1/2″ SDS drill as used in hammer drills and grind the (blunt) point to a sharp form similar to an ordinary drill. A ‘green grit’ wheel could possibly be good enough for that, better is a cheap Chinese diamond wheel e.g. from ARC Euro trade. 

I could drill out a solid hardened collet holder to 16 mm+ dia. to get clearance for holding longer stufff in it.

Btw TiN coated and ‘cobalt’ drills are not – or at least not much – harder than ordinary HSS.

This is a widely  held but wrong belief. The TiN is very hard; true, but it is only a very very thin layer. Touching a hard surface crushes that layer easily.

The ‘cobalt’ type is afaik only a higher quality of HSS.

Good luck! 

Hansrudolf

[Oliver LindleyParticipant @oliverlindley63277]

Hi John

 

It sounds like you are trying to drill a material that is harder than your drill bit.

 

If you have a carbide tipped boring tool, it may be worth trying to bore either in the mill or the lathe.  

 

Looking on the Arc Euro Trade website, a 12.7mm (1/2″) cobalt drill is £4.50 + 1.75 post.

[John CoatesParticipant @johncoates48577]

Well my first Harrogate show was a very enjoyable visit. Loved rummaging through boxes looking for bargains and found a few. Got most items on my shopping list and wished I had bought more steel stock. Very friendly atmosphere and advice from stall holders

 

Can’t wait for next year. Next trip to Leicester to visit son at Uni will have to include a drop in to the Arc Euro Trade  shop

 

Didn’t meet anyone from here but there was another guy in a Kawasaki fleece the same as mine so maybe you all harassed him

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Hi There Alvin,

 

Where are you based? Here in the UK the consumer is protected by the Sale of Goods act (1979) as amended, which says that goods must be ‘fit for purpose’ (among other things) and if not, can be returned for replacement or refund. I would argue that this vice is not ‘fit for purpose’  as it cannot be used for it’s intended purpose without being modified (shimmed etc).  The retailer is responsible as the consumers contract is with them, not the manufacturer, and it is they who should replace the item for an accurate one.  The act also applies to second hand goods when purchased from a retailer but not private sales.

 

I have several times sent Chinese tools back to retailers when they have faults, quoting the act and the items have been replaced no problem.  (especially Arc Euro) .

 

Most UK residents do not know the degree of protection that the act gives to the consumer both in products and services and are too willing to accept incorrect ‘get outs’ from retailers.

[Ian WelfordParticipant @ianwelford58739]

Hoping to meet up with like minded  “anoraks” as SWMBO puts it.

 

I’m with the York mob ( York and district model engineering society ). On Saturday will be accompanied by ( and trying to control)  9 year old ginger headed son, On Sunday again trying to control 79 year old bearded Uncle.

 

Suggestions for show-

1 Bring your own coffee as the ” in house” is OK but can be pricey.

 

2 Stop at Sainsbury’s on way in for croissants, biscuits, nibles ( all the bits SWMBO&nbsp monitors normally. Also they have cash machines!

 

3 Bring a folding seat ‘cos if it’s nice then enjoy a sit oitside between traction engine rides.

 

4 The cloth type “reusable ” carrier bags ( at 50p each ) can pack really small and carry lots!

 

5 M Machine are really friendly and will take stuff to the show for you! – I have no connection other than as a very satisfied customer of theirs.

 

6 Arc Euro aren’t going to be there- bummer!

 

Look forward to meeting Mr Circlip and others who’ve been really helpful with advice via this site. I I’m 6ft, blond, male and will probable be wearing my maroon York DMES sweatshirt  Oh and I’m not yet retired so look hassled!

 

Been looking forward to this for months!

See you all there.

Ian

 

[MarcuSwedenParticipant @marcusweden]

Stub  Mandrel :

I think You might be right here , i will look more at this when the minimill is reassembled, as You might be reading below i now got myself more work before Im even close to reassembly.

 

Peter : 

 Today i got my bearings,  but now I focus on a belt drive instead, it must be better than metal gears , So i will leave my internal gears out when reassembling.

 

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2560&category=879658189

 

might be good but the problem is the price when buying from outside EU. , I have bought some small things from US before and it gets realy expensive from none EU countries.

( Yes i woted NO , atleast we dont got the Euro – yet. )

So maybe make an own belt drive , how hard can it be ? My biggest problem is lack of knowledge when it comes to belts .

 

Someone in here converted to belt drive ? any thoughts ?

 

Edit : After 30 seconds on google , there seem to be no need to reinvent the wheel…..

many people has converted their minimills with a lot of intresting solutions.

 

like : http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1245.0

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited By MarcuSweden on 23/04/2010 00:41:08

[TONY SPENCERParticipant @tonyspencer]

Hi john

I forgot to say that arceurotrade wanted the motor has well to be sure that it was not the cause of the pcb going down

 

yours tony

[Peter G. ShawParticipant @peterg-shaw75338]

Hi Marcus,

 

You should find the MiniMill users guide here: http://littlemachineshop.com/Info/MiniMillUsersGuide.pdf.

Thanks for the info re the angular contact bearings. This suggests that perhaps my outer ring is not tight enough! I look forward to your final results with interest.

 

Metal gears are available from ArcEuroTrade. They are also used in the C3 lathe and that is where you will find them, ie under C3 lathe spares. In fact the designation shows, I think, C3/X2.

 

If you search using X2 or MiniMill or something similar, you will find somewhere that there are various suggestions for stiffening the column. I would have to do a search to find them again, but they are there somewhere. Basically, it seems that one way is to clamp a large steel plate on the back.

 

Similarly, you will find information of how to accurately set the mill by using shims in various places. Again, I can’t tell you where because I would have to search again.

 

I perhaps should explain that when I come across some of these things, I make a mental note that it does exist, and then some time later search again when I’m ready to use that information, hence my lack of assistence here.

 

Regards,

 

Peter G. Shaw

[TONY SPENCERParticipant @tonyspencer]

Hi John

I started out like you,
a shed in garden, but before I got the permanent electrical line, I
lined out the shed with loft insulation between the framework, then
covered with hardboard, the roof is done as well, make sure there are
no holes to course draughts which course the condensation (my opinion
of course), next use 2 m/m clear plastic has supplied by Wickes to
double glaze windows, if one or two open draught proof them.

I had my ML10 in my old
shed from 1982 and had very very little condensation/rust and rubbed
an oily rag on it when I remembered that is using, cheapo 3in1 from
wilkinsons or a pound shop nowadays

In my new 12ftx8ft with
6ft eaves I bought last year I have not double glazed the windows
has yet and I paid for it with light rust on X1 table even though it
was covered with a nylon/rayon sheet,

(this
may have helped course it, has I normally use an old curtain of
cotton on the lathe ), (my opinion of course).

In the roof i used the
large sheets of foam used by the building industry for insulation
and made a tight fit to spare using glue (big mistake, shrinkage is
too much use cheapo silicone from pound shop in circular blobs).
Knock up two T pieces of any spare timber to hold up the foam while
it dries.

Of course it wont stop
it completely so still pays to wipe over with an oily rag, one that
has been soaked in the cheap 3in1

I used 100 m/m  loft insulation and cut in half has it was cheaper at that time

I have had my X1 for I
believe 6 years and only just done a long job on it for the pcb to
fail and that was only slitting some collets for mandrel stops,
turned out it was a loose wire, which arceurotrade sorted for a few
pounds but it appears it is a common occurrence,
there was no moisture in the compartment where the pcb is kept has I
had to strip it and the motor to send to arceurotrade to check
everything was alright when they were finished with it.

yours Tony Spencer

[Peter G. ShawParticipant @peterg-shaw75338]

Hi Marcus,

 

Not necessarily in the same order that you put…

 

My machine had exactly the same bearings as yours, not as in the manual.

 

I haven’t looked into it, but I have a suspicion that headstock bearings for the C3 lathe may be the same – see Arc Euro Trade website. If I am correct, then I seem to recall Dave Fenner changing them (on the C3 that is) and describing it in MEW somewhere.

 

Now, I notice from your photos that the bottom bearing (7206AC) has come apart during the disassembly. Mine did not, ie the complete bearing came out with the shaft. However, a friend of mine has the same mill, Warco MiniMill, and only last week had to replace his gears. Just like you, his bottom bearing came apart. Now, I am not an expert, but it doesn’t seem right to me that these bearings should come apart like this. They are, after all ball bearings and I thought that once assembled they should stay assembled. I am aware though, that on bicycles that various ball bearings do in fact dismantle quite easily, but I think these of ours are meant to be sealed. Anyway, if you do succeed in changing to taper rollers then please let us, especially me, know because when my gears next break, I will wish to change them.

 

You comment on a lack of grease. This is exactly what my friend found, but I do not remember on mine.

 

Stripping the machine down is reasonably easy, even without the gear puller as you have. We changed my friends gears for metal ones that I had in stock ready, and reassembled in less than one day. It’s just a case of being logical.

 

Now onto the fine feed mechanism.

Your message above leads me to suspect that you do not know how it is meant to work. Please forgive me if this is wrong.

The finefeed knob via the long shaft turns the worm wheel inside the support block, item 159. This in turn rotates the bevel gear, item 155. This is shown in your photograph. The drive from the bevel gear is via the dog teeth onto the triple hand lever, item 154 which slides backwards and forwards along the pinion shaft item 157. The hand lever item 154 remains in either of two positions by means of a ball bearing item 149 (held by spring 150 and screw 151), there being two indentations in the end of the pinion shaft 157. Drive between the hand lever and the pinion shaft is by means of the keyway item 156.

So, to engage fine feed, the triple hand lever is pushed in towards the headstock to engage the dogteeth. The fine feed knob thus turns the triple lever slowly. To disengage finefeed, the triple hand lever is pulled out.

On both my mill, and my friends mill, the fine feed did not work. The manual did not even mention it, and it wasn’t until I downloaded a document from the Little Machine Shop in America that I found out how to make it work. What my friend and I discovered is that there is a gross misalignment between the the support block and the bracket adjacent to the fine feed knob such that the support block requires shimming out along its front edge (as you look at it from the front). Furthermore, the support block housing is too short for the actual worm itself, causing binding of the worm inside the block. This is cured by, in my case, adding washers between the end cover plate and the support block thus giving clearance for the worm to rotate. In addition, my friend discovered that his was seized up due to gunge.

 

Regards,

 

Peter

 

 

[Phil AshmanParticipant @philashman88468]

I usually cut the tube as described, but a tad over length, then true it up square and to length on the side of the green wheel. Also, Arc – Euro sell  diamond stones which can be used to “sandpaper” glass to almost any shape. I’ve used these to shape cab windows for locos. They only cost about a fiver.

 

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/

[David Clark 13Participant @davidclark13]

Hi There

It would be located in MEW.

Just need someone to write it.

I don’t think there is much wrong with the Arc Euro Trade super X1L.

David White wanted to make his machine much sturdier and really went overboard on improvements.

As sold it is not a bad machine.

regards david

 

 

[Peter G. ShawParticipant @peterg-shaw75338]

Hi,

 

Do a search on this forum. There are a number of threads dealing with the X2 (and it’s clones) and possible problems.

Briefly, the possible problems are:

Breaking of the plastic internal gears. Note that Arc Euro have suitable metal replacements.

Electronic control board failure. Note that some machines have an American control board, eg the Amadeal version and my own Warco MiniMill. These may be more reliable.

 

In respect of the Warco MiniMill, I now have experience of two of these machines. Both have suffered from seizure of the fine-feed vertical movement – cured by shimming. 

Also, both Warco machines are best described as a kit of parts requiring fettling. David White in MEW has found problems with the X0 X-Y base & the X1 mill. He suggests methods to improve them.

The suggestion that the MiniMill is best treated as a kit of parts requiring fettling has also been said by other people in respect of other X2 mills and clones.

 

Regards,

 

Peter G. Shaw

 

Note to David Clark 1.

 

Given that questions re the X2 mills and their clones keep arising, plus the information in various threads, it does make me think that an article combining all the information about these machines, their manufacturing sources, clones, and known problems and cures is perhaps long overdue.

 

The question is, where would such an article be located? 

[David Clark 13Participant @davidclark13]

Hi There

I would get the super 1XL with the larger table (from Arc Euro Trade) or if funds could be available (and room) the X3.

regards David

Edited By David Clark 1 on 09/04/2010 21:03:54

[MarcuSwedenParticipant @marcusweden]

I have decided to buy the Vertex 4″ rotary table after the things I read here. I will try to find a kit with the Vertex table and dividing plates.

 

I have never bought anything from Ebay uk , Is it anything special to think of when buying from ebay ?

 

Anyone who own the table from ArcEurotrade ?  

[peter walton 1Participant @peterwalton1]

I have the 4″ Soba purchased from Cronos, with which I am reasonably satisfied. Not sure I understand how the pinion broke.

I converted my one to stepper drive for use as 4th axis on my mill, a very trying experience so if you want to convert the table I for one would recommend the Arc-euro unit as that has certainly been converted in a much easier fashion and can be purchased already converted and at a reasonable price considering all the work mine entailed, I wich I had gone that route!

 

Peter

[MarcuSwedenParticipant @marcusweden]

I need to buy a Rotary Table that fits my minimillclone from Amadeal http://www.amadeal.co.uk/acatalog/XJ12-300.html .

I was thinking of a 4″ table from Chronos or ArcEurotrade but the table from ArcEurotrade is much more expensive and cost £137,50 and a SOBA table from Chronos cost £71,49 , the best thing would maybe be to buy a set containing rotary table, tailstock and dividing plates but the set at ArcEurotrade looks like “noname made in china” and is quite expensive while the SOBA from Chronos looks like “made in india” and has a better price.

 

I realy dont know which one to buy, any thoughs is helpful.

[marcusjParticipant @marcusj]

Posted by The Artful Bodger on 30/03/2010 22:55:14:

The Arc Euro Trade website has (or had) a video of my Clakre CL300 (essentially the same lathe) where I’m plunging a 3/16″ wide parting tool to cut a groove in 2″ EN1A. No chatter and the swarf ‘came off with the sound of frying bacon’, to coin a phrase.

 

Standard motor, but with the roller bearing headstock mod –  plus carefully adjusted gibs and slides.

 

 

Therein lies the trick, methinks.  I think I might order some taper roller bearings from Arc.  If I still lived near Leicester I might get Arc to fit them myself, but now instead of 50 miles they are more like 1000 away…

If I remember correctly Dave Fenner’s MiniLathe book explains how to fit the taper roller bearings to the C3 without running into the Catch 22 of needing a lathe to make / modify bushings when your one and only lathe is in bits.

 

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

Hi Marcus,

 

The Arc Euro Trade website has (or had) a video of my Clakre CL300 (essentially the same lathe) where I’m plunging a 3/16″ wide parting tool to cut a groove in 2″ EN1A. No chatter and the swarf ‘came off with the sound of frying bacon’, to coin a phrase.

 

Standard motor, but with the roller bearing headstock mod –  plus carefully adjusted gibs and slides.

 

I have since made a t-slotted cross slide that I use with a one piece tool post, but only this weekend I’ve been reducing a 1 1/2″ bit of high tensile (OK I picked up the wrong stuff from the pile) down to 5/8″ at one end. Just 10-15thou cuts and the swarf is coming off in long coils – I managed one over a yard long!

 

One idea I plan to try is a smaller toothed wheel on the end of the motor. Increase motor speed and get more torque for the same speed.

 

One thing I rely on is my digital tacho – not to get the right speed, but I keep an eye on how much the speed drops – shows up a too heavy cut or a blunt tool pretty quickly.

 

 

Regards

 

Neil

[peter walton 1Participant @peterwalton1]

Hi John,

I have fitted ballscrews to my X1 and as you say it is a bit of a squeeze especially for the X axis nut.

Not sure about fitting the Arc-Euro ballscrews as thay have a flange which is about 26mm high and will not go in.

The ballscrews I used are the RSW ones from Marchant Dice http://www.worldofcnc.com/products.asp?recnumber=69 the only problem with them is that they do not have wipers.  I have since found that the RSW type can come with wipers.

The other problem I had was that of machining the Y axis to take the ballnut fixing for the X axis as I only have the X1 mill, to that end I obtained a spare Y axis casting from the States.

I dont have any drawings or pictures, all done on the fly I’m afraid.

Biggest problem I had was in machining the ball screw ends and threading them ,baptism of fire was no exaggeration.

 

Peter

[Michael Cox 1Participant @michaelcox1]

Hi Marcus, I do not thik that more power will necessarily solve your parting off problems. Good parting depends on a good rigid toolpost, topslide and cross slide. Run the spindle slowly, use a sharp tool and don’t let it rub.

Some jobs require more power such as turning large diameters. Here the required spindle speed is slow so one solution is to install a layshaft and pulleys to reduce the speed of the spindle by say a half. This way you double the available torque.

The super C3 is very new and I doubt whether spares  will be availble yet but you could contact Arc Eurotrade to get the costs of the new motor and controller.

Mike

[marcusjParticipant @marcusj]

Anybody considering upgrading their Sieg C3 lathe from the rather puny old 350W motor to the 500W one that is fitted to the ‘Super’ C3 as sold by Arc Euro Trade?  Presumably it would need both motor and controller.  Anybody any idea how much this would cost?

Why? I’d like to be able to look forward to jobs cutting steel and parting off (any material!) rather than avoiding them like the plague!  I get larger steel pieces made for me by a tame local machine shop, at least to rough size and I always have to resort to the bandsaw for ‘parting off’.

[trevor jones 1Participant @trevorjones1]

ok i had a go at makeing MT2 but in the end i think i will buy from arceurotrade thanks for all your help.

and Ian thanks for your encouragement

Trevor.

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Hi Trevor

The above replies are good but the question is why are you turning a MT2 taper? If it’s for the experience of making it fine but if it’s part of some project you may be able to save some time. Blank end arbors are available very cheaply and the soft ends are easily machined to incorporate into a project. ARC sell them for as little as £2.75 see here :-

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Blank-End-Arbors

Good luck either way !

NJH

Edited By NJH on 15/03/2010 17:17:01