Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Roger HeadParticipant @rogerhead16992]

According to ArcEuroTrade resin-bonded diamond wheels are dressed using a fine aluminium oxide stick.

See http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/projects/d_wheels/dwdoc.html

Roger

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

Posted by Andrew Johnston on 25/04/2016 22:56:49:The only source of V thread serial taps that I am aware of is ArcEuroTrade.

I can't find anything other than serial taps here in France.

Russell.

[Martin 100Participant @martin100]

Does that mean you're playing the part of Buzz Aldrin for the weekend?

[Anonymous]

Michael: I'm glad you liked the article. KWIL and JasonB have discussed the basic reasoning for using serial taps. They are pretty standard for square and Acme threads, and the number and diameters of the taps in a series are detailed in Machinery's Handbook. It is worth remembering that square and Acme threads are normally tapped pretty much full depth, unlike normal V threads where a percentage of thread depth is fine. The teeth on the taps are quite wide at the OD and so are taking a significant cut, which can overload the teeth if the cut is too deep. I broke one of the teeth on my taps when tapping the bronze nuts.

Serial taps can also be used for standard V threads, particularly in tough materials. The only source of V thread serial taps that I am aware of is ArcEuroTrade.

Andrew

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

Your in the right place if you want to change the bearings. The front cone can be a pain to get off. The fit of the rear ones varies but can sometimes benefit from a very light polish to ease refitting. Arc euro have a pdf on titivating one of their lathes and they are all very similar. For slide adjustment Taig have a good pdf concerning building one of their lathes from their kit. Do it as they suggest lead screws out and look for a bit of resistance pushed by hand.

BMTS are in the middle of town. If you take the spindle along and ask they will probably get the front cone off for you and refit a new one. Take the bearings and buy a decent european brand. It's likely to need a bearing press so as they are close no point in trying to knock something up at home and risk damaging the spindle.

If you do change the bearings you will need to make a few bits and pieces. Couple of discs a touch smaller than the od of the bearing with a hole in the middle for all thread to press the new shells in. Something to locate in the spindle and keep the all thread central and a spacer to pull the spindle out. I did that badly like this, different lathe but the principle is the same.

I didn't make sure the all thread was central. That made it a lot harder to get out and scored the spindle a touch. Fortunately it didn't damage it.

What mill is more or less set by what table size and travel you need. In other word the area it can machine and also the daylight under the cutter which limits how "tall" work can be. If you want something that really has some grunt and doesn't take up much space personally I would go for one of these and not one of the variable speed machines.

**LINK**

They used to be available in a number of sizes and sold well. I'd hope they still deserve the same reputation. I haven't got the space otherwise I would know. For a bigger industrial machine Bidgeport wouldn't be my choice but all sorts of bits and pieces are available for them. Ideally I would want a universal but changing over on some might result in a hernia. They also tend to weigh a few tonnes. There are all sorts of makes available on the used market in all sorts of sizes.

John

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[Brian JohnParticipant @brianjohn93961]

Okay, thank you. I did buy M2 to M6 metric fine taps when I bought the metric coarse taps from Arceuro ; I have only used them once until now. I am glad I did not buy the metric fine dies…very expensive !

[StovepipeParticipant @stovepipe]

Look in Arceurotrade.co.uk advert on this page. Type "Cowells" in the left hand search box where their advert opens- should solve your backplate problem at least.

 

Dennis

Edited By Stovepipe on 20/04/2016 14:51:56

Edited By Stovepipe on 20/04/2016 14:52:56

[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

Would you say ground carbide tips give a better finish than HSS? Arceuro sells them for £8 each.

[Geoff~Participant @geoff46085]

Hi all,

I want to replace one of the grinding wheels on my 6" bench grinder so I can sharpen my turning tools (brazed carbide tipped) and tungsten carbide masonry drills.

Reading past threads suggests that diamond wheels are the way to go but I'm totally confused by the different array of shapes available. An example of what I mean can be seen here at Arc's page..

**LINK**

So my question is, what shape is for what purpose and what would be recommended for my needs?

thanks in advance

Geoff

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Am not an expert, (Far from it) but as I understand it, the motor for the C2 is a brushed 300 watt unit, with Pulse Width Modulated speed control. From what I have read, the FETs are likely to have failed.

A friend has just acquired a lathe in a similar condition. Our estimate is that spares to return it to working order are likely to cost just under £200, based on Arc Euro prices.

If you want more info, contact Ketan, he is most helpful, and has provided a lot of info about these machines on other threads.

Howard

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Ketan now does a 1.5mm blade but his holder is a better design that the ones that have been easily available for a number of years from the likes of Chronos and RDG. I will be getting one of thse holders when I next order.

1.5mm one in action on some cylinder fins

Again there are several makers of the small parting/grooving systems I use the "Minithin" which is available from MSC here in the UK. I have a few inserts for it, flat bottom grooving, right and left parting and also the round bottom one. They are also very good for circlip and e-clip grooves which is what I originally bought it for. Page 593 & 594 they are usually in teh monthly discount flyer.

1.0mm tip being used for piston ring grooves

0.7mm wide e-clip grooves for 0.6mm wide clips in stainless valves and silversteel pivot pins

[MetalmuncherParticipant @metalmuncher]

I've been a customer of Arceurotrade for several years now, and their service has always been first class. When i have had problems with a machine advice and help is only a phone call away. A great company to deal with.

[BarrydrumParticipant @barrydrum]

I always feel if you get good service from a supplier it should be recognised. PM yesterday I realised I needed some special sealant t so I ordered some from arceurotrade. this morning at 8:30 it was in my hands, that can't be bad.

Barry

[Malcolm Parker-LisbergParticipant @malcolmparker-lisberg38138]

Oh dear, sometimes a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. You need to dig out your basic electronic reference books and look up the definition of an inverter…. Converts DC to AC. SWMP are generally DC output. Look up the definition of the word converter also. These LED lights use inverters, the mains is rectified, converted to AC and fed to the LED diodes which conduct on one polarity and an anti-parallel diode conducts in the other.

As toroids are used for the majority of small inverter applications, for reasons you may or not be aware of, will have creapage and clearence distance greater than can be achieved with an iron cored transformer. But you also need good layout practises.

As with all standards, some manufacturers comply, some don't and some are criminal. A major european manufacturer, VW, comes to mind as does the fire death trap Vauxhall Zafera.

To tar all Chinese electronics manufacturers with the same brush is fatuous and scaremongering.

As to being fatuous, take a trip to Savoy Place and search the index in the library journal reference, don't use the online version, it does notgo back far enough. I think the argument about 2 pin non fused plugs was raging in the 1960 and 1970s

Malcolm

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Posted by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg on 10/04/2016 15:30:33:

It makes sense to keep conductive materials away, but where do you think Ikea electronic products are made ? And they don't use transformers anymore because of the cost of the copper, they use an electronic inverter just like the lamp and they are made in mainland China too The electronic inverter has inheriently better isolation between input and output.

As they are double insulated an RCD will offer little protection in the case of an internal short Protect the wiring by using a 3A fuse, which incidently neither USA or Europe 2 pin plugs are fused. So fit a UK 13A plug and 3A fuse.

You can buy the identical unit from Amazon (UK) supplier for £7.99) or from the sewing machine distributors for £25

So yes, Caveat emptor, but do some research first.

You're missing the point. By law any products sold in the EU must be CE marked and this is a legally binding declaration that all the creepages and clearances have been met, the materials used are approved for use as insulators, the approved temperature range of the safety barrier components is not exceeded and the EMC (emissions and susceptibility) have been tested and meet the statutary requirements – amongst other things.

There are plenty of products that come nowhere near meeting the basic safety requirements. One excellent way to acquire them might be to buy direct from China, without CE mark and knowing nothing about their parentage. On the other hand, if you buy from a reputable company like IKEA, they will have ensured that any products they stock are properly approved and have meaningful CE marking. Whether they are made in China or not is beside the point.

As for switch mode power supplies (they are not called inverters), there is no reason to suppose that they are any more or less safe than a 50/60Hz transformer. It's perfectly simple to construct either sort using minimal creepages and clearances, using unapproved insulation and safety critical components. Believe me, in several decades developing power electronics products, I've seen plenty examples that were potentially lethal.

The benefit of using an RCD is that you would be protected against a breakdown in the isolation barrier – such as you might find if it were designed by a cowboy. If a hazardous voltage appears on a user accessible part and generates a current through the user to ground, that user would be very grateful to have the RCD trip. To qualify as "double insulated", you have to meet certain requirements.

Failure of the primary circuit generally causes a fault current to flow and (again) the regulations require this to happen in a manner that will not result in a hazard (shock, fire etc) – it is a requirement to have a fuse on the AC connection to limit the fault current. The notion that unfused US and EU plugs somehow present a hazard is fatuous.

Murray

[Malcolm Parker-LisbergParticipant @malcolmparker-lisberg38138]

It makes sense to keep conductive materials away, but where do you think Ikea electronic products are made ? And they don't use transformers anymore because of the cost of the copper, they use an electronic inverter just like the lamp and they are made in mainland China too The electronic inverter has inheriently better isolation between input and output.

As they are double insulated an RCD will offer little protection in the case of an internal short Protect the wiring by using a 3A fuse, which incidently neither USA or Europe 2 pin plugs are fused. So fit a UK 13A plug and 3A fuse.

You can buy the identical unit from Amazon (UK) supplier for £7.99) or from the sewing machine distributors for £25

So yes, Caveat emptor, but do some research first.

Malcolm

Malcolm

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Hi Piero,

Earlier this year we updated our website and added the promotion code feature.

In tests, the function works fine for U.K. and European customers where the customers pay VAT. However, there is a bug for customers who do not pay VAT in the E.U., or non-E.U. customers where VAT is excluded, which the software providers are trying to fix.

I had notification from the developers yesterday afternoon that they have fixed the problems I had raised. I will need to test this next week. If it works as it is supposed to, then I will start issuing promotion code/s for certain product/s in about two to three weeks time, but don't get too excited, as I have still to decide what product/s will be selected.

Until the bug is fixed, we will continue to run promotions or deals or discounts as we have been doing to date.

Ketan at ARC

Arceurotrade promotion codes wanted plz

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

If you choose a labyrinth type sealing arrangement, the "thread" should be of a hand that screws any dirt outwards, (NOT inwards) under normal direction of rotation.

Some lipseals are available with a "thread" on the outer side of the lip, but again, are only effective if the rotation of the shaft moves debris away from the lip.

Metal shields on ball bearings exclude large particles, "rubber" seals (as in bearings with "2RS" suffixes are much more effective in keeping out small particles. Talk to Ketan at Arc Euro about these types of shields and seals.

Howard

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

…………….if only he sold his HSS-AL milling cutters for Aluminium in standard lengths. As it is I feel obliged to use as much of the tool edge as possible on the long series ones to get my monies worth. Swarf goes everywhere.

35mm width of cut, 0.020" depth of cut 12mm 2-flute cutter, feed about 6" per min, speed what seemed right, Material 6082.

The 6mm dia ones cope quite well profiling 20mm width as well

[Nyrup BoeghParticipant @nyrupboegh48678]

Hi

Thank you to all participants in the debate of the subject.

I have now managed to get a little time in my own workshop and tried the tools I ordered from Arceurotrade.
They worked very well indeed.
Yes, there were some chatter from the 2mm parting tool, but it realy didn't matter.
The small aluminium thread-bushings I was making parted off verry well.

When I part off on lager lathes (Colchester, Victor, Weiler and Haas CNC) I keep the rpm in the range of 300-800rpm. I did the same on the Sieg C3 minilathe.
Also – as mentioned by an other participant – the tip should not be above center hight
but rather a bit below centerhight.

Regards,
Nyrup

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

I have this set; nice tools & only need a slip stone / diamond lap to touch up …

**LINK**

+1 for JasonB comments

George.

 

Edited By mechman48 on 02/04/2016 10:52:53

[VicParticipant @vic]

This set would be a better idea but you'll need a grinder at some point to sharpen them. A slip stone will do to touch them up to start with though.

**LINK**

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Don't assume any slides need lapping until you have used the lathe. You may cause more issues than you solve – and you won't know whether you have made any improvement unless you find out what its like before.

8mm or 5/16" tools will be at or close to centre height when used in the toolpost so you will need minimal packing.

If it's a new SC3, are you sure the leadscrew bearings don't have oil points? I know there was a period when they were coming through without any oil points but my 1998 one has an oil hole at the headstock and an oil point at the far end. Photos below show leadscrew oil points on an Arc Euro Super C3. Note you squirt oil in, it isn't meant as a reservoir.

Neil

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

Posted by Ketan Swali on 26/03/2016 12:18:42:

Posted by Hopper on 26/03/2016 05:55:22:

It looks like a pretty cheap and nasty design

Jasons comments on Unimat, makes me wonder how the above comment would have been phrased if it was referred to a Unimat, especially on a Unimat forum…where they possibly paid more to get less? I guess they will just say that it a cheap Chinese copy.

Thanks for posting how you fixed it Hopper. Hope to read more about his journey here or on some other thread.

Ketan at ARC.

Edited: Corrected Austrains (sorry you guys) to Australians.

Edited By Ketan Swali on 26/03/2016 12:20:28

The Unimat is a different animal Ketan. More of an instrumentation lathe complete with follower type screw cutting which actually suits that sort of thing. Reckoned to make a good watch and clock making lathe too but I wonder what people expect to make on them when they buy one. When I sold mine I demo'd it cutting low diameter (1/2&quot steel to a bloke who was rather please because he only really wanted it to make small plastic bits and pieces. It was a pretty precise lathe too. The head design is brilliant but might cause some problems if left hand cuts were taken on it especially screw cutting.

People need to get their heads around expectations and cost. As a for instance take the baby, the proxons and the hobbymat. From a user point of view they all head in different directions and have different levels of attention to detail. The Hobbymat of old is now the SU300 and costs just short of £1200. No idea where they are made now but doubt if it's still in Europe. A lot of the cost is probably down to detail and some might be due to trading on the name or look in this case. The larger Proxon is a similar price. Both weigh around twice the weight of a baby lathe – weird what, clearly totally unnecessary or is it? I do have a couple of baby lathe parts bought from Arc. They are just slides and will do their job with some limitations. I wouldn't call the design nasty just cheap. It's very clear why they have been made as they are. Cost and that's it. Some other aspects of the lathe and others is specification – they must look good in that respect which says little about their real capabilities. Spec changes are sometimes a missleading too but not on this one so far.

Brian if I remember correctly was warned that he might have some problems turning steel. Above certain sizes some people do. Hopper didn't have much of a problem at an inch but he does know what he is doing. Brian's tried cast iron and didn't like it at all but I suspect Brian is likely to want to machine it again.

To be honest as the designs of well made precision lathes in all sizes was thought out long ago I can't understand why the Chinese don't get on and do some in smaller sizes Even Brian's. There are problems though, leaving castings lying around for a very long time to allow them to stress relieve. The alternative is a tunnel that they take a good while to go though and get very hot and cool down very very slowly – days, lost and lots of them.That as far as I am aware has never caught on anywhere as it costs too much and also doesn't always work out well. It's cheaper to just store them in the open. A couple of years as far as I am aware. Maybe that can be reduced by different casting techniques.

John

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