Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Steve SharmanParticipant @stevesharman33815]

Hello, Ketan, and thanks for your post. Yes, I did discuss this with Ian this morning – full marks to ArcEuro for phoning me to try and resolve the issue.

Luckily, I own a toolpost grinder and have been able to modify the adapter to suit so, yes, I am sorted in that respect. I could have done that to my original adapter but was too lazy.

What I wrote in my post this morning was genuine, I wouldn't have accepted a refund. For such a low cost item it wouldn't be worth raising the paperwork. My point was that even companies such as yours that have very good reputations can have problems now and again, and we all know that it takes a long time to gain a good reputation but the blink of an eye to lose it!

Following the discussion with Ian I can confirm that I am now happy to remain a customer of ArcEuro.

Regards, Steve

[Steve SharmanParticipant @stevesharman33815]

ArcEuro often get good write-ups on the forum but, unfortunately, I must have caught them on a bad day yesterday. I ordered a couple or R8 adapters over the weekend and they arrived on Tuesday so very good service to this point.

I had ordered a B12 adapter to load a 13mm drill chuck onto and an MT2 for general use with MT drills etc. When I loaded them up to the milling machine, the B12 adapter had a runout of about 3.5 thou which was worse than the adapter I received with the machine. I then tested the MT2 adapter and this ran true within half a thou so I recleaned the B12 adapter and tried again but the runout was the same.

At this point I phoned ArcEuro and spoke to a gentleman to whom I explained the problem. Now, I appreciate that this thing only cost six quid or so, but I offered to send it back and, possibly, pay a bit more to have a higher quality one, or one that had been checked in their workshop but was told that they only did the one type and they were all from the same batch so would probably all be the same.

What I found disappointing was that there was no offer to take the part back for a refund (nor did I ask for one), or any offer of an alternative solution, it was really a case of "Sorry, mate, but it's a cheap item and you're stuck with it".

Quite honestly, at six quid I agree it isn't worth messing about over and I wouldn't have accepted a refund anyway but the lack of interest in helping me find a solution means that I am reluctant to return for any further purchases. I appreciate that they don't make the product and I don't expect them to slavishly check all the items they sell but, unfortunately, I feel that their customer services slipped a little yesterday.

Steve

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Hello Bruce,

In the UK RS Components stock timing belts (though there are a lot of other suppliers). They have an Australian division too with similar stock. Not the cheapest but fast delivery. In the UK Arc Euro Trade also supply them and maybe Ausee too? As Michael says, they are highly engineered, precise components and it would be very hard to replicate using polyurethane I think.

J.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Posted by Ed Duffner on 23/05/2016 22:50:45:

Have recently noticed parting and turning steel to be getting troublesome on my little 180 lathe. Thought I'd sorted the parting problems with lower gear(pulley drive) = more torque and better tool set up which proved ok in brass but parting steel still caused sudden lock ups and blown fuses. Looking into it further today I've found the saddle lifts off the base about 0.05mm on each corner. If I make a cut in steel using the carriage advance wheel I can go back and fore removing material without advancing the cross slide for a few passes.

It would appear that their is some spring in the saddle and I think it's due to wear of the vee in the saddle. The ways on the bed look ok and checking with "Blue" I can see excessive wear towards the tailstock end of the front vee face in the saddle.

So my next task is to lap-in the ways of the saddle. I've found some online tutorials and the job in hand seems ok.

I'm actually glad I checked the ways because I'm not impressed with the fit. Looks like it fitted where it touched at the rear, in about 4 small areas of the flat way.

I may go the whole hog and do the cross and compound slides too while I'm at it.

I expect the wear may have been caused by the knurling I've been doing and the saddle iron appears to be a very soft variety.

Ed.

Ed, I would not rush into "lapping" the ways, even though any number of internet experts recommend it. Certainly avoid the option of "lapping" the saddle to the bed directly using grinding paste. Much too likely to wear the bed out prematurely. The "trick" of putting emery paper on the bed ways and sliding the carriage back and forth over it is marginally better but easily can lead to all sorts of wonky shapes being worn into the way surfaces in the carriage.

If you are having trouble with the saddle lifting, you probably need to pay attention to the anti-lift plates on the bottom of the saddle. On some lathes each plate has a pair of grub screws and a pair of clamping screws so you can adjust the gap down to zero. That way the carriage will not lift when using an upside down parting tool. The lower way surfaces these plates run on are rough on some of these lathes, so a clean up with a smooth flat file to remove burrs etc first is in order. Ditto the mating surfaces on the anti-lift plates themselves. An even better solution is to do away with the grub screws for adjustment and use brass shims so the plates are clamped down nice and flat without bowing.

If you are getting continued cuts on multiple passes as you describe, the most common cause of this is loose headstock bearings. Best cure might be to replace the stock ball bearings with tapered rollers adjusted correctly, or at least with radial ball bearings. I think the ARC Eurotrade website has details on this upgrade.

Another thing to check with saddle "springiness" is that the leadscrew is properly aligned with the halfnuts so it is not lifting the saddle off the V ways in spots.

Then, if still having problems, as a last resort turn your attention to the V ways. Knock burrs off the bed ways with a smooth flat file. Take the leadscrew off the machine so the saddle can slide freely up and down. Rub some blue on the relatively unworn section of bed under the tailstock area (remove tailstock first) with one clean finger. Then wipe it off with another clean finger. The skerrick of blue left is all you want for a true reading. Then rub the saddle back and forth over the blued area a few times, without rocking it, and have a look at where you are getting high spots. Then make a little scraper out of an 8" or 6" flat file and scrape the high spots down until you get something like a respectable even reading. Look out too for the tops of the Vs not having clearance to allow the full load to bear on the angled sides of teh V, not the tops.

A bit of time and care and you will end up with a very nice little precision lathe. I can't say the same for some of the "lapping" techniques I've seen on t'internet. Maybe it works for them, but I dunno. My old foreman would have kicked my butt until my teeth fell out for such shenanigans.

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

Seen in album " gears " 3 photos. Helical gear 1, The pair on the left
are 1 mod hobbed gears made as a test piece. The centre pairs are hobbed
gears for a reduction gearbox to drive work on the Universal grinding machine.
Both of these were made on the hobbing unit featured in the article in MEW 193
"Gear hobbing in the mill ". This electronic Syncron system which conrols this was
designed and made by Richard Bartlett (Compucut).
The hobs were from Arc Euro I think these are now all sold out and they now
don't seem to sell them anymore which is a shame as they were a very good
cutting tool. Obviously there is quite a lot to make to be able to produce these
type of gears in this way and to some extent depends on how many
gears you need.
The gears on the right were cut on the Dore Westbury cnc mill by inclining
the head to the helix angle and using a suitable disc gear cutter ,the lead
is taken care of within the control system to syncronize the table movement
and rotation of the gear blank.Rotation of the gear blank to index to the next tooth
forms part of the cnc control file and as such once started can be left to get on
with it to completion.

The photo helical gear 2 shows a 100 tooth 1mod gear 5 deg left hand
helix .This would seem to be a similar helix angle as described by the OP
for the 20 tooth gear at 29 mm od .At 20 DP at this angle (5 deg) would work
out as 1.104 inch or 28 .03 mm ,The HPC gear angle is 17 deg 45 min
increasing the od to 29 mm .With hobbing it is possible to cheat and still
get to the 29mm od by increasing the blank size to the required size
and then cutting the required tooth number.
This is normal practice for gears with low tooth counts where the PCD
is increased to avoid undercutting at the tooth roots .

The last photo helical gear 3 is similar to the photo 2 except the hand is
opposite ,this is a replacement Align mill power feed gear of 106 teeth
but should be 107 tooth (i mis-counted the original ) .So the 106 tooth is cut
on a 107 blank ,it fits in and runs fine.

Getting back to the OP's original question ?

"Limited skills and tools as usual" . We have all been there at some time.

Any simple methods to creating more than 1 gear easily? Or should i just get comfy
and make them one at a time?

Probably not as to make anything such as this requires some commitment in time.

As answers i doubt this is of much help but is probably true.

John

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Have never had anything but satisfactory service from Arc EuroTrade. For many things, their catalogue or website is usually my first port of call. Very fair and helpful with whom to deal.

Howard

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

This is a request for information from Myford lathe owners.

Since ARC launched the Model 000 Wedge type Quick Change Tool Post, we have recieved questions from several new and exisiting customers about fitting this QCTP to their Myford lathe.

As a result, with assistance from Tim Stevens and others, we prepared the modification kit to allow customers to fit the 000 QCTP to their Myford ML7.

We are confident that the kit is suitable for the ML7, however we are uncertain if the kit will be suitable for fitting onto the Super 7 or any other models of Myford.

If you are an owner of a Myford lathe, other then an ML7, and if you are able to offer any information on the subject, I will be grateful if you could please have a look at the fitting instructions pdf here. It shows the original Myford toolpost stud which has a 7/16" thread. I need to know if all or which other Myford lathes have/share the same stud as a component.The picture below shows the original stud fitted to an ML7, next to the stud supplied in the modification kit:

Any information anyone can provide would be very much appreciated, and it will help us to provide correct guidance to anyone who has a Myford, other then an ML7.

Thank you.

Ketan at ARC.

[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

Guess who only just found the "Related Insert" button on the Iscarr website. That could have saved a lot of time.

Arceuro also have a similar GTN. No one has GTN of GFN with the 1.6mm width. Anyone wanna take bets on whether a 2.1mm tool would destroy the holder?

[Raymond AndersonParticipant @raymondanderson34407]

Hi Nigel, I second your findings with Transwave. Excellent to deal with. When I bought me first lathe [still going strong] a Warco GH750 I ordered up a Eurotherm Drive [now made by Parker SSD ] from Transwave, and the unit has worked without a hitch since new [ about 2001]. I notice that they only stock what I think might be Chinese drives now. The Eurotherm was [is ] spendy, but is so reliable. I was actually going to go the Transwave route again for me DSG, but the fact that I got a drive specially built by the electronics guru's at the brothers employers meant I didn't need to. I have no experience of the drives you mention but they seem popular .

Cheers.

[Mark Williams 21Participant @markwilliams21]

It's ok I'm getting them exchanged. A very nice man called Ian from Arc Euro Trade read this thread and phoned me out of the blue this morning to say an exchange was no problem, this is the kind of customer service every company should have and will certainly guarantee I use them in the future. Thanks Ian and Arc Euro Trade!!

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

There were various comments made on this thread about the limitations of EMG-12 with reference to the end mill size range this module was able to handle: 3mm to 12mm.

The factory which makes the above, also makes the size which covers a range from 4mm to 20mm. However, just like the EMG-12 pre JS intervention, this model needed a little modification. After JS's input, ARC has now added this modified version to the range too, offering EMG-20, in addition to the EMG-12.

General detail on this page.

JS will be doing demonstrations at the Doncaster Show.

Ketan at ARC.

[Mark Williams 21Participant @markwilliams21]

Hi, I bought a Myford ML7 a few months back and have only just got around to setting it up properly ready for my first project, anyway I needed lathe tools so checked in the owners manual and it says 10mm tools, went to Arc Euro trade and bought myself a 8pc set which I thought would get me started if nothing else. Fitted one into the 4-way tool post to find the cutting edge is way above centre, am I able to drop the height? Admittedly I only had a quick look and couldn't see anything obvious, any help would be extremely grateful.

Thanks

Mark

[Tim StevensParticipant @timstevens64731]

If you re keen on spotting mistakes try the latest Radio Times where someone is banking on Australia winning the Eurovision song contest.

And even further off-topic, if we exit, will we no longer be able to enter this silly farce? If so, I might change my mind about voting.

PS my postal MEW hasn't arrived yet …

Tim

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

NGK plugs, that brings back a memory. I had a 3 Cyl. 2 stroke SAAB 95 and with the KLG plugs when you got down to 22 mph it would start to kangeroo a bit so I fitted NGK plugs and it would then go down to 18 mph before it started bouncing. The plugs were 18 mm size as i remember. A maximum speed of 88 mph and it ran like a sewing machine. It had a free wheel device as well and was one of the best cars I have ever driven in snow and would make way in 12 " of snow.

Later I sold it and bought a SAAB 96, this had a V 4 Ford engine fitted and did 44 mpg and over 100 mph. The only reason I sold that car was because I was going to Germany and I was told there were no SAAB agencies in Germany.

I bought a tax free Ford Escort that I then ran for 13 years. It took me all over Europe and as far as the Arctic Circle.

[Stuart BridgerParticipant @stuartbridger82290]

The vast majority of turning on my 1963 Chipmaster has been using home ground HSS, with the exception of a couple of boring bars with inserts. I spied an advert from Arc Euro with insert based turning tools at a very attractive price. So I invested in a 16mm shank turning tool with a CCMT09T304 insert and thought I would give it a go.

So said tool arrived and I mounted it up against an offcut 1.25in of (I think) MS bar from my friendly engineering shop. Cranked up the Chippie to scarily fast speeds (2000ish RPM) and off we went… "interesting" times.

1) Neat cutting oil is not ideal for this task clouds of smoke obscuring my view of the job and filling the workshop. Conventional suds would be much better. Also coolant splashing around everywhere.

2) Hell I need an insert witha chipbreaker. Streams of very hot curly blue swarf. A real tendency to come off the insert and route behind the toolpost screws and shoot out horizontally very close to to where I was standing. At the end of the job it wasa really good excuse for a major sweep-up of the workshop and I am still finding little blue black spirals in obscure places.

3) Boy did it make my Chippie grunt, don't think the Inverter has every run so hard and it did slow the spindle speed significantly.

4) Whoa the workpiece didn't half get hot…

5) On a positive note, really nice finish on the work and it certainly can shift material.

So an interesting experiment, I can certainly see why HSS is recommended over carbide for smaller lathes. I won't be completely swapping over to carbide, but will certainly be finding an insert with a chipbreaker before doing any serious work.

[mark smith 20Participant @marksmith20]

From what i can see it has four t-nuts on the bottom and would have to fit on a crossslide like on this link of a C8!

**LINK**

The C! had a similar cross slide. So you need to bolt it to the cross slide with the crews and t nuts then the top half should swivel by loosening the screw that is on the scale , then tightening it at the angle you want.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Lathes/Model-C1-Lathe/SIEG-C1-Lathe/SIEG-C1-Lathe

Edited By mark smith 20 on 06/05/2016 18:09:02

[Ed DuffnerParticipant @edduffner79357]

Hi Rod,

I'm relatively new to machining and have a Warco WM-16 milling machine which I think is the same size or maybe just a little larger than the X2P. It has a 2MT spindle and 750W motor.

For a long time I've been using end mills and the occasional 2-flute slot drill from kit inherited from my Dad and have always taken very cautious milling cuts.

I noticed Jason.B mention the other day about trying out a roughing endmill from ARC and I've always wondered what these were like so I bought a 10mm HSS-AL 4flute and I have to say I am amazed at how much more metal I felt comfortable removing in a single pass, this was tried on EN3B mild steel to make some T-nuts. It also feels different when winding the axes, seems to have more feedback through the winding handles.

I would highly recommend anyone new to hobby machining to invest in at least one roughing endmill as it turns what can be a tedious exercise into an enjoyable step in making something on smaller milling machines. Wish I'd done this sooner.

Ed.

Edited By Ed Duffner on 06/05/2016 06:20:22

[Iain DownsParticipant @iaindowns78295]

My mill is the CMD10 which is (I think) like an X1L but without the L part.

I regret not buying something bigger and more powerful. The mill itself is probably quite good – particularly now I've stripped it down a few times, started to tune it (adding bearings to the leads screws and so no) and come to understand it better. Using good quality tools makes a big difference (my new carbide end mill from Arc Euro Trade is a revelation – near mirror finish on steel).

However, if you are not careful or work with uncertain materials the gears break with some regularity which is a pain. Cheap to replace, but a pain.

Iain

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

I have various taps & dies, some collected over the years, BSW,BSF, UNC,UNF, I also have a set of ME taps & dies bought from Arc Euro many moons ago when I first started thinking about getting into the hobby, same goes for BA sets as the Stuart kits I have always state BA sizes although you can use metric equivalents. In essence I'm pretty well covered but the trend these days is to work to metric even for the smaller size… 2.5 / 3 mm for 8/7 BA , although have noticed that 7 BA is increasingly difficult to come by from all suppliers, why is it just 7 BA when others are readily available?

George.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

I was a Carbide Sceptic, at least as far as smaller lathes were concerned.

Now I have a CCMT/CCGT tooling from JB Cutting tools and I can take relatively huge, fast cuts with my my lathe to roughing out and get reliable good finish on most materials.

I have also travelled the road to Damascus on parting and found out that speed is good thanks to teh Arc Euro inserted tools.

Neil

[Rod NeepParticipant @rodneep80388]

Posted by Russell Eberhardt on 02/05/2016 10:48:16:

Posted by Frances IoM on 02/05/2016 09:35:10:
super X1L (longbed) from ARCEuro tho in retrospect an SX3 would have been nicer but this is 3x the price of the SX1 and near twice what I paid for a well tooled lathe

The SX2P might be a good compromise between those two. I would avoid the ones with the tilting column as they are difficult to align and a bit too flexible. Not far from your budget Dave.

Russell.

I have just been through the same thought process, (after reading lots on here) and settled on buying the SIEG Super X2P HiTorque Mill – Belt Drive with Brushless Motor from ARC Euro. One of the factors in my choice was that I bought the version with the 3MT as I already have a 3MT ER32 collet set for my lathe, which saves having to spend one lump of money on the "extras", which can add up considerably.

I am very pleased with the SIEG…. and it is so quiet!

Rod

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

Posted by Frances IoM on 02/05/2016 09:35:10:
super X1L (longbed) from ARCEuro tho in retrospect an SX3 would have been nicer but this is 3x the price of the SX1 and near twice what I paid for a well tooled lathe

The SX2P might be a good compromise between those two. I would avoid the ones with the tilting column as they are difficult to align and a bit too flexible. Not far from your budget Dave.

Russell.

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

subject has probably been done to death in many previous posts as depends on what you want it for.

your lathe has 2MT tailstock so any tools here would fit an SX1 type mininmill – the larger Sieg machines are MT3 though buying collets + relevant chuck means then can be used on both lathe + mill. All would fit on a standard kitchen worksurface – I have your lathe badged as a Warco WM180 + also a super X1L (longbed) from ARCEuro tho in retrospect an SX3 would have been nicer but this is 3x the price of the SX1 and near twice what I paid for a well tooled lathe

[David JuppParticipant @davidjupp51506]

Arc Euro now list spare Torx screws to use with inserts, there is some information in the table. **LINK**

[ianjParticipant @ians]

Maybe these clamps from Arceurotrade are the answer:-

**LINK**

Ian