Search Results for 'arc euro'

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

As Andrew says you probably need a 10mm or maybe even 8mm shank tool to bore a 13mm hole.

The reason that the common tips don't have much clearance is that the edge would be too fragile and chip easily.

You will find that as the bar dia gets smaller the angle that the tip is held at increases to give as much clearance as possible

3 Flats is unusual for  alathe boring bar, can you post a picture as it may be meant for  aboring head. If you do want to rotate it then make or buy something like this that is bored to fit the round of your bar

Edited By JasonB on 28/06/2016 19:01:49

[zak moussaParticipant @zakmoussa19318]

Posted by Howard Lewis on 25/06/2016 22:09:17:

If you need spares, talk to Ketan at Arc EuroTrade. He is a most helpful chap!

I'm guessing that your lathe is actually a Seig C2, with a 300 Watt motor,and although ARC don't sell them, they do sell spares. Including fuses, and a "rubber" dirt excluder to fit around the Leadscrew where it passes into the Control Box. You may even be able to get hold of a user manual for it.

The one thing that, I gather will destroy the circuit board, is to start up with the speed control set above minimum.

I think it was Ketan who posted on another thread about the C2, a list of ways of messing up the electronics.

DO find the other thread and read through it; it includes a hand drawn circuit diagram, and LOTS of info and advice.

The manual for my C3 (which has a different, and non interchangeable, 350W motor and control board) definitely says

"CAUTION: Always turn the speed control to the minimum speed position before starting the lathe. Starting the lathe with the speed control control set to a higher speed can damage the speed control circuit board"

It also advises a maximum cut of 0.010 inch (0,25mm) when roughing. Remember it is only a small lathe with a 300 W motor, so big cuts are a No No. Also, heavy loads at low speed can cause the motor to overheat, also at low sped you have a lot less torque available.

There are a lot C2s and C3s around, and people have done a lot of good work on them, and made a number of accessories and mods to improve their versatility. (Heeding a warning from Mike Cox, about swarf finding its way through the mandrel and falling inside amongst the plastic change gears, I have just made a simple extension for the mandrel to ensure that any swarf falls out of the back, rather than inside).

Hope that this is some help.

Howard

Thanks for the info looks like i was taking way too much off at each time :

i found the board on the website you suggested close to £100 yikes

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C2-Mini-Lathe-Spares/C2-182A-Control-Board-FC250J

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

If you need spares, talk to Ketan at Arc EuroTrade. He is a most helpful chap!

I'm guessing that your lathe is actually a Seig C2, with a 300 Watt motor,and although ARC don't sell them, they do sell spares. Including fuses, and a "rubber" dirt excluder to fit around the Leadscrew where it passes into the Control Box. You may even be able to get hold of a user manual for it.

The one thing that, I gather will destroy the circuit board, is to start up with the speed control set above minimum.

I think it was Ketan who posted on another thread about the C2, a list of ways of messing up the electronics.

DO find the other thread and read through it; it includes a hand drawn circuit diagram, and LOTS of info and advice.

The manual for my C3 (which has a different, and non interchangeable, 350W motor and control board) definitely says

"CAUTION: Always turn the speed control to the minimum speed position before starting the lathe. Starting the lathe with the speed control control set to a higher speed can damage the speed control circuit board"

It also advises a maximum cut of 0.010 inch (0,25mm) when roughing. Remember it is only a small lathe with a 300 W motor, so big cuts are a No No. Also, heavy loads at low speed can cause the motor to overheat, also at low sped you have a lot less torque available.

There are a lot C2s and C3s around, and people have done a lot of good work on them, and made a number of accessories and mods to improve their versatility. (Heeding a warning from Mike Cox, about swarf finding its way through the mandrel and falling inside amongst the plastic change gears, I have just made a simple extension for the mandrel to ensure that any swarf falls out of the back, rather than inside).

Hope that this is some help.

Howard

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi James, that's exactly what I did with my collet chuck from ArcEuro **LINK**

Regards Nick.

[James AParticipant @jamesalford67616]

Well, I have given up on this plan. I have managed to get the taper inside of the chuck to run true to within about .005" / 0.0127mm, but the runout on the shank of a slot drill is still excessively large.

I have looked into lathe collet chucks, as suggested by VIc, and propose to buy one of these from ArcEuro.

Am I right in thinking that I "just" need to turn up a back plate with a suitably sized register and then bolt the two together?

 

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Lathe-Collet-Chucks/ER16-Lathe-Collet-Chuck-62mm-Dia

 

Regards,

James.

Edited By James Alford on 19/06/2016 18:50:48

[Gordon TarlingParticipant @gordontarling37126]

The Axminster lathe is a Sieg C0 as far as I can see. The real advantage of going with Axminster and paying the extra is the 3 year guarantee, there's no other company that offers this. That being said, Arc Eurotrade's customer service is highly regarded, even if only a one year guarantee. Only you can decide if it's worth paying the extra for the Axminster one. If you're planning to build 3.5" or 5" gauge locos or similar, I think you're going to struggle with something as small as a C0. Although more money and more space taken up, you should really be looking at lathes with 3" centre height or more – these are more solidly built and much more likely to allow you to produce good quality work. If you can find someone local to you who knows his stuff, I'd suggest you look at the used market – you can pick up some excellent machines for good prices. A couple of years ago, I bought a used Emco Compact 8 for £450 – it's an older model, so made in Austria and solidly built with a little more capacity than the much worshipped Myfords which seem to command a premium price. The condition of my lathe is A1 and it seems to have had little use. The downside of this lathe is that accessories can be hard to come by, though can still be found.

I'd also suggest that you forget the milling machine for now and look at buying one when you really need one to make a part. A lot can be done with the right lathe that's fitted with a vertical slide attachment.

Take your time in deciding what to buy – I took over 6 months to find my lathe – and take good heed of the experienced advice that is being offered on this forum. Good luck in your quest!

[MWParticipant @mw27036]

I think they are both the C0 essentially so it's up to you, i've bought stuff from both companies and were happy with it so, i can't call it. I would say since they are so similar it's probably just the lick of paint you're paying for. If you read closely about the Arc euro one they have an adjustable tailstock which is exclusive.

Michael W

[Michael Cox 1Participant @michaelcox1]

I purchased a X1L from ArcEuroTrade many years ago. It has done everything I have ever asked of it. It has a large table compared with the standard X1 (eg from Machine Mart). The motor is small, only 150 watts output power, so you cannot make massive cuts but having said that you can achieve the same result with a succession of small cuts. The good thing about being an amateur is that time is not money it is pleasure!

In addition ArcEuroTrade have a first class customer service reputation.

Mike

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by TREVOR WILSON on 18/06/2016 08:40:00:

Mike, the spindle runs between 2 taper roller bearings as Robbo said but on the Major the bearings are different sizes – 30207J2 and 30206J2. Both of these I obtained from Brammer. They also supplied the lower seal part No NBR45X72X8A. Total cost was approx. £65. The rebuild was straight forward, just remember the 2 locking nuts to set the shaft endfloat are left handed!!.

Might be worth trying Arc Euro first, they list 30207 at £15.50 inc vat and 30206 at £9.26 which will save you a few coppers.

Neil

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 18/06/2016 09:56:11

[Mark Williams 21Participant @markwilliams21]

Hi Simon, I'm new to the hobby and purchased a Sieg X1 from Arc euro trade, the reason being it came with the longer bed as standard plus an accessory kit the other retailers weren't offering. So far I have been really impressed with it, in the process of building my first model and everything I've asked of it it has done with no issues. I also much prefer using it to drill than the pillar drill I bought. Great piece of kit and Arc euro trade are a great company to deal with.

Hope this helps

Mark

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

About the cheapest small mill that would be suitable for anything but the smallest work is the Sieg X1. It comes in several guises, probably the best being the one sold by Arc Eurotrade. This also seems about the cheapest but is £439 so above your number. I know a lot of people use these very successfully, look at …

**LINK**

Yes you can use it for drilling but by the time you've put the chuck in the spindle there isn't much daylight left underneath. I don't have a pillar drill but I do have a milling machine I bought for having a lot of clearance under the spindle for boring long items.

[Simon Robinson 4Participant @simonrobinson4]

Posted by MadMike on 17/06/2016 10:42:33:

In life you get what you pay for. If you only want to pay £145 for a "lathe" then that is exactly what you will get, £145 worth of something. Remember that somebody is expecting to make a profit from that £145. then as you now know it is entirely unsuitable for any sort of work. Now having said that if you look at ArcEuro Trades advert they have a small Sieg lathe for around £280. Twice the price but in reality probably 5 times the lathe, and it will cut metal. They also have a great supply of accessories to fit the machine as well as great customer service. I would suggest that Ketan at ArcEuro would be a great guy to talk to, and to help you getting your first, of many I am sure, lathe. Normal disclaimers etc apply. I am just a very happy and impressed customer. If you are in the Midlands remember that Arc are open to customers and you can view their machinery.

I've seen there website the Sieg C0 lathe looks a really good lathe and cheaper than the Axminster lathe it doesn't say but I guess the Sieg is also suitable for iron and steel? I will certainly consider this lathe and dismiss the not so good £145 one. Thanks

[MadMikeParticipant @madmike]

In life you get what you pay for. If you only want to pay £145 for a "lathe" then that is exactly what you will get, £145 worth of something. Remember that somebody is expecting to make a profit from that £145. then as you now know it is entirely unsuitable for any sort of work. Now having said that if you look at ArcEuro Trades advert they have a small Sieg lathe for around £280. Twice the price but in reality probably 5 times the lathe, and it will cut metal. They also have a great supply of accessories to fit the machine as well as great customer service. I would suggest that Ketan at ArcEuro would be a great guy to talk to, and to help you getting your first, of many I am sure, lathe. Normal disclaimers etc apply. I am just a very happy and impressed customer. If you are in the Midlands remember that Arc are open to customers and you can view their machinery.

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Posted by JasonB on 16/06/2016 19:58:52:

Arc have a 40mm long one in stock, easily shortened

Edited By JasonB on 16/06/2016 19:59:45

No, that's too easy Jason.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Arc have a 40mm long one in stock, easily shortened

 

Edited By JasonB on 16/06/2016 19:59:45

[Martin 100Participant @martin100]

Looking for a UK source for these or something very similar. M6 x 1 thread with roughly 25mm of exposed thread.

Arc Euro list them but have no estimated back in stock date

[Gordon TarlingParticipant @gordontarling37126]

I've determined that a Sieg SX2.7 mill would be just about perfect for me, if a little pricey. Axminster tools are selling it, (at a price!) but I can't find another seller in the UK. I saw mention of Arc Eurotrade possibly stocking it, but it seems that's a possible maybe at the moment. Does anyone know of another UK stockist?

Edited By Gordon Tarling 1 on 08/06/2016 18:43:45

[Martin 100Participant @martin100]

Never bought anything from Chester but and had Arc Euro deliver an S3 Mill and stand down a drive that was a bit rough in places and with limited space around vehicles 'under restoration' Put down exactly where I wanted it for unpacking and degrease. Arrived on the day or maybe half of the day promised. But that was quite a few years ago. Painless, unlike the more recent 'delivery' of a fridge freezer by John Lewis weighing just 70kg vs around 200kg for the mill and stand. . Total PITA bolshie delivery drivers (yes they sent two) unlike the very efficient one and pallet truck Arc sent.

 

Edited By Martin 100 on 05/06/2016 14:42:36

[SarahJParticipant @sarahj]

I purchased a Keyless Drill Chuck from Arc Euro a few months ago and I was very pleased with it. The runout was far less than the cheap chuck that came with my Mill. They also stock B16 arbours for the keyless drill chucks.

[LambtonParticipant @lambton]

Brian.

Arc Eurotrade sell a 1.5 -13mm drill chuck with a B16 taper part number 040-010-00320.

I have always found Arc to sell very good quality gear even though it comes from China. If you were to have any problems they will sort things out immediately as they are a first class supplier. I have no connection with Arc other than as a frequent and satisfied customer.

Eric

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Muzzer on 28/05/2016 13:37:30:

Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 28/05/2016 13:13:22:

Yesterday I was aligning my milling machine ready to drill an accurately placed hole. My wobbler was spinning at 2400rpm when I bumped it causing the ball mounted pin to whiz across my garage and disappear into a pile of junk.

Use an edge finder instead of a wobbler. They don't flail about as the end is captive and has limited movement. This is your opportunity to change!

You probably know how to use an edge finder already but here's another video on how they work.

Available from most sources. Arc Euro even give an explanation how to use them.

Thanks Muzzer – good advice as always.

I didn't say so in the post, but the point I was aligning was on a 100mm diameter circular plate held by a rotary table. I tried using an edge finder to locate "North" and "West" on the plate but found it difficult to judge when the edge finder was truly at the farthest point on the circle. I admit I gave up too easily, and was left wondering if I'd missed a trick. Is an edge-finder a good tool for this?

I'm a self taught machinist and quite often end up kicking myself when I find out how the experienced chaps do things.

Thanks,

Dave

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 28/05/2016 13:13:22:

Yesterday I was aligning my milling machine ready to drill an accurately placed hole. My wobbler was spinning at 2400rpm when I bumped it causing the ball mounted pin to whiz across my garage and disappear into a pile of junk.

Use an edge finder instead of a wobbler. They don't flail about as the end is captive and has limited movement. This is your opportunity to change!

You probably know how to use an edge finder already but here's another video on how they work.

Available from most sources. Arc Euro even give an explanation how to use them.

[Bob RodgersonParticipant @bobrodgerson97362]

I bought a Furnace for my workshop a while back and have onlyused it a couple of times to heat treat stuff and it worked really well, however last time I used it it went ballistic the temperature department and refused to work thereafter.

I suspected the temperature controller but needed some help in determining if this was the case. Armed with a Muti Meter a friend and member of my local Model Engineering club helped out and more or less confirmed that the controller was faulty.

I spoke to one of the Technicians at the company I bought it from (TMS Europe) and he sent me a list of checks to carry out which would further confirm if the fault was with the controller. He also put a replacement controller in the post so that if the fault was confirmed I could put the new one in.

The checks I was given confirmed the controller faulty. The new controller arrived this morning and I fitted it and had the furnace heating up nicely within 30 minutes of it's arrival.

Once it has cooled down I will replace the outer cover, parcel off the faulty controller to TMS and thats the job done.

Really excellent service from TMS.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

I dont see where it says what the mini lathe gears' module number is, but if you contact Ketan at ArcEurotrade i am sure he can quote you chapter and verse on that stuff.

I would still try to figure out how to use the 20dp gears that you have. Is the gear on the main spindle 20dp? if so, and the last gear in the tumbler group is the same number of teeth, you have a 1:1 ratio, and may be able to mesh a 20dp gear with the inner gear of the compound pair and carry on in 20dp from there.

Or, you may have to make up a compound gear to go on that tumbler output stud with a gear that matches the main mandrel gear compounded with a 20 tooth 20dp gear. Your list of extra gears, I understand, includes a 30T and a 20T so if you mount these on a stud, pinned together and use them to replace the current compound tumbler output pair, you should be able to cut your thread with the 50T on the leadscrew and couple of idlers in between.

The more I look at that tumbler combined belt tensioner, the more intriguing it gets. It looks quite possible that the old engineer had the belt tension handle right there next to the reverse tumbler so the belt tensioner could be used as a clutch to disengage drive before shifting the tumbler from forward feed direction to reverse, then re-engage the belt. Much quicker than stopping the motor, changing tumbler and restarting etc.

And if your 20t 20dp will not fit over the diameter of the main spindle, your lathe may have been fitted with a larger than standard spindle, with larger bearings and a larger hole down the middle. All very advantageous.

Jet engines eh? A look into the making of jet engines may reveal more about what goes on that rather special vertical slide. Machining turbine blades is rather specialized and maybe this was the gizmo used.

Edited By Hopper on 27/05/2016 09:58:58

Edited By Hopper on 27/05/2016 09:59:59

[Richard HardcastleParticipant @richardhardcastle]

If I understand things write The full diameter of a Mod 1 gear is teeth+2 in mm? if that's correct then are these what i need? **LINK**