What Did You Do Today (2016)

[john carruthersParticipant @johncarruthers46255]

For a Herschel wedge the angle only needs to be small, say 5 deg, and the rear face can just be left ground so any plane surface can be used. I had an old quartz plano convex lens I flattened the back off a bit and used the flat, with a heavy ND and an adjustable polarising pair it gives a good sharp image.
I use a bit of tin plate to reflect the unwanted energy to a heatsink (saves anyone peering up the exhaust )
I have seen old bino prisms used off the hypotenuse and the other faces ground. Ideally it needs one further reflection but heavy weders glass after the prism can attenuate the light enough.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Interesting ideas. Martin, your link gives me a blank page.. but I suspect that the need to dump visible as well as IR just means its adding complexity for little gain. A 30-dgeree prism with the face at 45 degrees will reflect 3.6% of the light while allowing almost all of the rest to shoot out the back where a mirror and/or heatsink deal with it.

3.6% is still pretty bright, so an ND3 (10-stop) filter is typically used on the output. these are only about £7 on the 'bay in camera sizes..

The prism needs to be about 32mm across for a 1.25" eyepiece. Apparently Surplus Shed had 30-degree prisms with 1/4 wave flatness for a knock-down price in 2011.

John's suggestions (and others on the web) are interesting – all that sub-optimal prisms mean is a slight loss of contrast.

[Anders.BParticipant @anders-b]

Hi

Today I test drove my fathers almost finished BR Class 2 live steam locomotive on compressed air.

My father started building this locomotive 1979.

Here is a video of my test run on a short track in the basement **LINK**

Anders

[Jeff DaymanParticipant @jeffdayman43397]

Hi Anders,

Beautiful locomotive, great workmanship! well done! JD

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Radio Devon mentioned model TEs at the County Show implying pictures on their facebook page but not there when I looked. Anyone we know?

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, earlier this evening I was using my Dremel 395 multi-tool, switched it on/off a couple of times and then the third time I turned it on, nothing happened. I checked the fuse in the plug and that was OK, checked the brushes and they were OK, so opened it up and checked the flex with an ohm meter and that was OK, so then I checked the coils and rotor windings and they were all OK. The conclusion was the switch/speed control has given up.

Went on the Dremel web site and to my surprise given the age of mine, they are available. At £20 or so including p&p and VAT. It was probably not economical to buy one, but I have, as I like this one that I have with 5 speeds.

Regards Nick.

[Ed DuffnerParticipant @edduffner79357]

Have recently noticed parting and turning steel to be getting troublesome on my little 180 lathe. Thought I'd sorted the parting problems with lower gear(pulley drive) = more torque and better tool set up which proved ok in brass but parting steel still caused sudden lock ups and blown fuses. Looking into it further today I've found the saddle lifts off the base about 0.05mm on each corner. If I make a cut in steel using the carriage advance wheel I can go back and fore removing material without advancing the cross slide for a few passes.

It would appear that their is some spring in the saddle and I think it's due to wear of the vee in the saddle. The ways on the bed look ok and checking with "Blue" I can see excessive wear towards the tailstock end of the front vee face in the saddle.

So my next task is to lap-in the ways of the saddle. I've found some online tutorials and the job in hand seems ok.

I'm actually glad I checked the ways because I'm not impressed with the fit. Looks like it fitted where it touched at the rear, in about 4 small areas of the flat way.

I may go the whole hog and do the cross and compound slides too while I'm at it.

I expect the wear may have been caused by the knurling I've been doing and the saddle iron appears to be a very soft variety.

Ed.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Posted by Ed Duffner on 23/05/2016 22:50:45:

Have recently noticed parting and turning steel to be getting troublesome on my little 180 lathe. Thought I'd sorted the parting problems with lower gear(pulley drive) = more torque and better tool set up which proved ok in brass but parting steel still caused sudden lock ups and blown fuses. Looking into it further today I've found the saddle lifts off the base about 0.05mm on each corner. If I make a cut in steel using the carriage advance wheel I can go back and fore removing material without advancing the cross slide for a few passes.

It would appear that their is some spring in the saddle and I think it's due to wear of the vee in the saddle. The ways on the bed look ok and checking with "Blue" I can see excessive wear towards the tailstock end of the front vee face in the saddle.

So my next task is to lap-in the ways of the saddle. I've found some online tutorials and the job in hand seems ok.

I'm actually glad I checked the ways because I'm not impressed with the fit. Looks like it fitted where it touched at the rear, in about 4 small areas of the flat way.

I may go the whole hog and do the cross and compound slides too while I'm at it.

I expect the wear may have been caused by the knurling I've been doing and the saddle iron appears to be a very soft variety.

Ed.

Ed, I would not rush into "lapping" the ways, even though any number of internet experts recommend it. Certainly avoid the option of "lapping" the saddle to the bed directly using grinding paste. Much too likely to wear the bed out prematurely. The "trick" of putting emery paper on the bed ways and sliding the carriage back and forth over it is marginally better but easily can lead to all sorts of wonky shapes being worn into the way surfaces in the carriage.

If you are having trouble with the saddle lifting, you probably need to pay attention to the anti-lift plates on the bottom of the saddle. On some lathes each plate has a pair of grub screws and a pair of clamping screws so you can adjust the gap down to zero. That way the carriage will not lift when using an upside down parting tool. The lower way surfaces these plates run on are rough on some of these lathes, so a clean up with a smooth flat file to remove burrs etc first is in order. Ditto the mating surfaces on the anti-lift plates themselves. An even better solution is to do away with the grub screws for adjustment and use brass shims so the plates are clamped down nice and flat without bowing.

If you are getting continued cuts on multiple passes as you describe, the most common cause of this is loose headstock bearings. Best cure might be to replace the stock ball bearings with tapered rollers adjusted correctly, or at least with radial ball bearings. I think the ARC Eurotrade website has details on this upgrade.

Another thing to check with saddle "springiness" is that the leadscrew is properly aligned with the halfnuts so it is not lifting the saddle off the V ways in spots.

Then, if still having problems, as a last resort turn your attention to the V ways. Knock burrs off the bed ways with a smooth flat file. Take the leadscrew off the machine so the saddle can slide freely up and down. Rub some blue on the relatively unworn section of bed under the tailstock area (remove tailstock first) with one clean finger. Then wipe it off with another clean finger. The skerrick of blue left is all you want for a true reading. Then rub the saddle back and forth over the blued area a few times, without rocking it, and have a look at where you are getting high spots. Then make a little scraper out of an 8" or 6" flat file and scrape the high spots down until you get something like a respectable even reading. Look out too for the tops of the Vs not having clearance to allow the full load to bear on the angled sides of teh V, not the tops.

A bit of time and care and you will end up with a very nice little precision lathe. I can't say the same for some of the "lapping" techniques I've seen on t'internet. Maybe it works for them, but I dunno. My old foreman would have kicked my butt until my teeth fell out for such shenanigans.

[Steve PaveyParticipant @stevepavey65865]

I took a couple of photos of my latest and long-awaited acquisition and was going to post them on here, but for some strange reason they are upside down on this forum even though they are the correct orientation on every other device and in every other bit of software I view them with. So what I did today was to give up.

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Posted by Steve Pavey on 24/05/2016 10:22:23:

I took a couple of photos of my latest and long-awaited acquisition and was going to post them on here, but for some strange reason they are upside down on this forum even though they are the correct orientation on every other device and in every other bit of software I view them with. So what I did today was to give up.

Windows 8 or 10?

I think I've finally found the fix for this – simply open the photo in almost any photo editor (the in-built Paint program will do) and make a tiny change / crop etc – or just use the "Windows snipping tool" to grab and resave the photo. Then the orientation is saved correctly.

I've taken to simply using the Snipping Tool to grab a screenshot of the photo (Start > All Apps > Windows Accessories > Snipping Tool) and saving it as JPG. ***** MIcrosoft.

Murray

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Well if its the two multifix tools you uploaded earler today then they look th eright way up to me

[JAParticipant @ja]

Well, for the last few days preparing to go into hospital for a hip replacement. I spent the weekend making raising blocks for chairs etc.

It's all been a bit of a rush.

I cannot see myself getting back into the workshop for a good few weeks. I don't think I will be able to teach the home help how to change a chuck on the lathe.

JA

[Steve PaveyParticipant @stevepavey65865]

Very strange. Muzzer – I took the photos on the iPad and transferred them to my (Apple) laptop, so no windows involved. Jason – gave up and took the dog for a walk, came back and now the forum shows them the right way up. And yes, you're right, it's a Multifix clone.

Anyway, here goes. Ordered from Create after reading everything I could find over the last year or so. Ordering was,straightforward and delivery took about 5 days. Significantly lower price than ordering from any other sources I could find.

I have a small Aa set on the Boxford (genuine Swiss Multifix) which are of course super quality. This is an E size set for my bigger Harrison – there are quality differences but overall not significant as far as accuracy is concerned, all the important surfaces have a good finish, though the threads on the toolholders need a clean as they feel slightly gritty. Very pleased overall, and much better than constantly swopping tools and packing them up to centre height!

Edited By Steve Pavey on 24/05/2016 13:03:29

Edited By Steve Pavey on 24/05/2016 13:05:14

[Sam Longley 1Participant @samlongley1]

Posted by JA on 24/05/2016 12:34:44:

Well, for the last few days preparing to go into hospital for a hip replacement. I spent the weekend making raising blocks for chairs etc.

It's all been a bit of a rush.

I cannot see myself getting back into the workshop for a good few weeks. I don't think I will be able to teach the home help how to change a chuck on the lathe.

JA

Leave the 4 jaw in & then you only have to mount the 3 jaw in the 4 jaw without all the bolting up.

I saw an engineer do this & he reckoned it made the 3 jaw more accurate.

[Martin WParticipant @martinw]

JA hope all goes well and your up and about relatively quickly. I have had both knees and a hip replaced and it has made so much difference to my mobility. Reasonable walks of 2 or 3 miles are now no problem even if they contain quite steep slopes, not too many though otherwise I get knackered as 73 and overweight don't make good bed fellows for exercise!!!

Best wishes and do the exercises as it does make a difference to the final outcome.

Martin

[John McNamaraParticipant @johnmcnamara74883]

Hi

??
From previous post.
"Leave the 4 jaw in & then you only have to mount the 3 jaw in the 4 jaw without all the bolting up."

If the 3 jaw chuck has a hardened body (And most do) not a good idea at all.
There was an engineering works down the road where this was a work practice until…. Until the three jaw came loose at high speed The lathe was a large Dean Smith and Grace, and the three jaw was no lightweight. It put one person in hospital, he was seriously head injured, as it ran amok bouncing around the workshop before finally coming to rest.

Hardened jaws against a hardened body can easily slip.

Regards
John

Edited By John McNamara on 24/05/2016 15:22:42

[John McNamaraParticipant @johnmcnamara74883]

Hi JA

Best wishes, A few mates have had it done, all good.

Regards
John

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by JA on 24/05/2016 12:34:44:

Well, for the last few days preparing to go into hospital for a hip replacement. I spent the weekend making raising blocks for chairs etc.

It's all been a bit of a rush.

I cannot see myself getting back into the workshop for a good few weeks. I don't think I will be able to teach the home help how to change a chuck on the lathe.

JA

Hope it all goes smoothly JA. I know someone (in their 30s) who had one and it makes a huge difference.

[Clive HaynesParticipant @clivehaynes74488]

It might be worth asking the surgeon to have a look at the hip joint first, as an engineer you may consider a few modifications to it first. A mate of mine had one of his hip joints replaced recently and he was walking about unaided within one week of op. Good luck.

Clive

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Muzzer on 24/05/2016 12:11:43:

Posted by Steve Pavey on 24/05/2016 10:22:23:

I took a couple of photos of my latest and long-awaited acquisition and was going to post them on here, but for some strange reason they are upside down on this forum even though they are the correct orientation on every other device and in every other bit of software I view them with. So what I did today was to give up.

Windows 8 or 10?

I think I've finally found the fix for this – simply open the photo in almost any photo editor (the in-built Paint program will do) and make a tiny change / crop etc – or just use the "Windows snipping tool" to grab and resave the photo. Then the orientation is saved correctly.

I've taken to simply using the Snipping Tool to grab a screenshot of the photo (Start > All Apps > Windows Accessories > Snipping Tool) and saving it as JPG. ***** MIcrosoft.

Murray

I usually bulk open files for uploading into my favourite editor, use auto contrast (which improves 99% of ordinary images by stretching them to use the whole range from black to white) then re save with my default jpg compression setting , which reduces file size by about 80% with no real loss of quality.

[Bob RodgersonParticipant @bobrodgerson97362]

I bought a Furnace for my workshop a while back and have onlyused it a couple of times to heat treat stuff and it worked really well, however last time I used it it went ballistic the temperature department and refused to work thereafter.

I suspected the temperature controller but needed some help in determining if this was the case. Armed with a Muti Meter a friend and member of my local Model Engineering club helped out and more or less confirmed that the controller was faulty.

I spoke to one of the Technicians at the company I bought it from (TMS Europe) and he sent me a list of checks to carry out which would further confirm if the fault was with the controller. He also put a replacement controller in the post so that if the fault was confirmed I could put the new one in.

The checks I was given confirmed the controller faulty. The new controller arrived this morning and I fitted it and had the furnace heating up nicely within 30 minutes of it's arrival.

Once it has cooled down I will replace the outer cover, parcel off the faulty controller to TMS and thats the job done.

Really excellent service from TMS.

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Posted by Steve Pavey on 24/05/2016 13:02:21:

Very strange. Muzzer – I took the photos on the iPad and transferred them to my (Apple) laptop, so no windows involved. Jason – gave up and took the dog for a walk, came back and now the forum shows them the right way up. And yes, you're right, it's a Multifix clone.

It seems to be an Apple thing to a fair degree, ie starts when you take a pic with an iPhone (in my case) or iPad (in yours). The original metadata including the original orientation seems to survive and be used by this website, even though it may be displayed differently on (some?) laptops – often after reorientation. Other websites don't seem to suffer from this problem. For my W8 and W10 machines, some form of actual edit seems to be required, rather than mere reorientation.

My Create A sized holders look great here in the armchair. But the planning application should have been submitted today for a real workshop, so things are looking up….

[Anonymous]

Posted by Muzzer on 27/05/2016 12:28:44:

But the planning application should have been submitted today for a real workshop, so things are looking up….

Woohoo!

Andrew

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Good luck with the planning app. I am involved with a small charitable organisation that want to put a temporary shed on land leased by another charity off a third charity. Everybody is happy with the idea but we have to get planning permission and a lease so bullshit paperwork costs will be half as much as the shed itself.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Today

I bought a new Pencil, and a little Pad to use it on.

MichaelG.

[Author]

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