Search Results for 'arc euro'

[MWParticipant @mw27036]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 19/07/2016 16:43:52:

Posted by Michael Walters on 19/07/2016 16:27:34:

I think they've proven that the lights do work on a public safety level by reducing accidents, as you're much more likely to see a passing car.

.

Interestingly, Michael, there has been research that suggests that; in an environment where the use of DRL is the norm, an unlit vehicle becomes even less visible than it would ordinarily have been.

This would imply that the benefit of DRL is a self-fulfilling prophesy [rather like the imposition of 'bus lanes]

A little light reading <ouch> here.

MichaelG.

Thanks,

By reading that short pamphlet produced by the Anti-DRL league, the question of DRL seems to have arisen chiefly in nordic countries, i would wager that the question ever arose at all because in those countries it gets much darker, it would therefore make sense that there should be DRL in those countries, however, if what you say is true then it seems less of a necessity in countries where daylight hours are longer and more forgiving.

Lets flip the question the other way and say "would removing lights on cars altogether increase accidents?" I'm sure the resounding answer would be yes because you can't see anything after dark(if you study the war period then we can see with the blackouts, that this experiment was put to the test). So there is clearly a benefit to better lighting, but the question is how much? Does this benefit increase exponentially, presumably, if the lights were so bright then you also can't see anything, that's why they tell you to not look at the sun.

So, it seems to me that their law is based on the flawed thinking of "more lights = less accidents". So therefore, we can ascertain that having the right amount of light is the sensible approach, and they ought to study what amount of light is acceptable for the human eye(and also at which level do things start to disappear) and regulate their law on that.

Michael W

Edited By Michael Walters on 19/07/2016 18:26:52

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Michael Walters on 19/07/2016 16:27:34:

I think they've proven that the lights do work on a public safety level by reducing accidents, as you're much more likely to see a passing car.

.

Interestingly, Michael, there has been research that suggests that; in an environment where the use of DRL is the norm, an unlit vehicle becomes even less visible than it would ordinarily have been.

This would imply that the benefit of DRL is a self-fulfilling prophesy [rather like the imposition of 'bus lanes]

A little light reading <ouch> here.

MichaelG.

[Involute CurveParticipant @involutecurve]

I think Arc Euro do a one shot oiling kit………

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I would not bother with a set just get some individual ones as sets tend to be cheaper quality and you won't use all the sizes.

For upto 6mm Dia I find the FC-3 type cutters the cheapest and good quality, The ones from MSC when they have them on special which is most of teh time work out at less than £3 for a 6mm.

Over 6mm I have found the Premium HSS from ARC work well and reasonable price, 3-flute standard length should do you unless you intend to do a lot of Aluminium work in which ase the dedicated ali cutters are worth getting.

[Bob JeppParticipant @bobjepp]

I've read the ad several times and so far, I can't see the RPM quoted. Working backwards 4000 rpm spindle through a 9:1 worm would require 4000 x 9 = 36,000 rpm at the motor spindle – I can't see that happening, industrial routers running at 24,000 rpm have bearing issues and they are totally enclosed, built in semi-clean room conditions.

Have a look on Arc Euro Trades web site at the high speed spindles to see the difference. I've also looked at Zapp Automation for ideas.

[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

So I was considering getting this BLDC motor and through a 9:1 worm gear get it to power a spindle for 4000 RPM and below. Powered by Arduino and this ESC, though coding specifics are a work in progress.

Are these motors able to output the advertised (1500w) power for extended periods of time?

For the motor and controller from Aliexpress it would cost £40. A weaker 1000w motor for a SC6 is a £300 motor and £200 control board. I know the guys at Arc Euro have bills to pay but a £560 makes me think there might be some more issues with the Aliexpress sourced motor?

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

It's probably best to check tool height with a facing cut and not to set high.

Brian John is now managing parting off on a baby lathe with this tool

**LINK**

Not suggesting buying one but note how the blade is ground. It will probably be best to put say 5 degrees or so on and try that first. The T shaped ones that are being introduced may not be any good as grinding the back rake on will probably weaken them too much. A taper ground blade should be ok. Parallel blades need relief grinding on. I can't help wondering why some sell those. They are asking for problems without any side relief.

I usually use a 1.5mm thick parting tool for squaring up shoulders as all tools I use have a small rad on the end. In the size i use these are getting rather hard to find. How useful this is depends on the length of the part that is going to be fitted to the shaft with the shoulder. A very narrow parting tool or something like one can also be ground onto a toolbit.

2 styles of HSS tool I use a lot are these – crap photo as the camera focused too far back

They may not look sharp but they are and polished but that is for use on aluminium.

The top one is a simple bar turning tool. Easy to grind all angles around 15 degrees but the rad on the tool has been stoned on and is SMALL. Not much back rake on the top. Just a couple of degrees. The end could be ground at an extreme angle and used to square up corners leaving a very narrow recess, it just needs to be the size of the rad. That style will need significant back rake as it's cutting into the work end on.

The lower tool can do that too and the angles can be the same. It can also bar turn and face but for facing a bigger rad is better. Facing from the centre out often gives a very high quality finish. It's best to grind the shape slowly so that the temper of the tool isn't wrecked. The tool works out well on a Boxford as it can be angled and the work can still be reached. Some mini lathes may need the compound slide moving.

It seems to be important that the grinding wheel runs true in order to leave sharp edges. It does for me anyway. Not sure why this is. I've long suspected that some grades of HSS result in sharper edges. Might turn out that cheap junky M2 is the best. I intend to buy a piece at some point and find out. It's just a suspicion that I have had about M42 for some time but it probably comes down to grades and types of grinding wheel as M42 milling cutters can be extremely sharp.

John

–

Edited By Ajohnw on 15/07/2016 12:28:08

[Robin GrahamParticipant @robingraham42208]

Just to let you know how it panned out – I used Truloc Superfit 231, equivalent to Loctite 603 according to the Arc Euro website, with plain holes, around 0.05mm clearance on diameter, and it's rock solid. Don't know what went wrong first time round. I was probably trying to learn too many things at once.

Thanks for the guidance, Rob.

[David GosdenParticipant @davidgosden83033]

Several years ago I bought a Sieg C3 from ArcEurotrade when the AC motor version was about to be replaced by the DC version, so an excellent price. Since then it's done all sorts of work both general mending and more precise and demanding work. Support and backup is great, from Arc, here and many online forums. There's a wealth of info out there. The milling attachment is a bit of challenge and rather limited but apart from that the world is your oyster.

Lots of updates and mods available when you need them. I have done several and some improvements too when needs have arisen. The current project is a freelance 5" gauge loco – even turned the wheels from 115 mm blanks – can be done – just!

Well worth looking at the later version!

Very pleased with mine

Edited By David Gosden on 12/07/2016 17:54:35

[Simon CollierParticipant @simoncollier74340]

It should be up to a small 5" loco but the lathe would want to be optimally set up. Have a look at this:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/machineguides/C3-Mini-Lathe-Dismantling-and-Reassembly-Guide.pdf

Others who own a mini lathe will be along to advise before long.

[Andrew Simpson 6Participant @andrewsimpson6]

Hi guys

Thanks for your help I will have a look into the best deals that I can get can anyone think of any other company's that sell these lathes I have looked at Warco,amadeal,Chester,arc euro,Axminster is there any more out there ? Thanks Andrew

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

People who buy from this company generally seem to be happy with what they get and they do come with all of the bits and pieces. I've yet to see a bad comment on them on here. There has only been one I am aware of and it was sorted out.

**LINK**

There is also ArcEuro for Seig. Another fairly popular brand.

Personally I would add weight to spec's when you are looking around and would wonder if the light weight mini lathes are really up to what you intend to make. Maybe some one who makes them can comment on feasibility for 5" loco's in particular.

I also feel that models that come with screw cutting indicators are a good idea. Some have them, some don't. They all generally will come with gears to allow various pitches of thread to be cut. Not having these when 2nd hand lathes are bought can add a lot to cost.

ML10 and Speed 10's are pretty solid lathes if they have the capacity you need. It can also be fairly easy to find ones that haven't seen all that much use. Getting all of the bits you need for it if the lathe doesn't come with them can be very difficult and expensive. Some items don't come up for sale very often. There are also 2 styles of ML10. One uses replaceable spindle bearings the other doesn't. The ones with the replaceable bearings are a safer bet, The shots of the lathe on lathes.co.uk show the difference. It's pretty easy to spot.

John

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[Brian JohnParticipant @brianjohn93961]

I used to have problems parting off until I put an edge on the front of the blade with the bench grinder. It has made things much easier. I keep two blades : one for parting off and the other (with the flat edge)  for recess cuts. I also keep everything locked down (carriage and topslide). If it doesn't need to move then lock it down.

**LINK**

 

Edited By Brian John on 11/07/2016 11:42:32

[bodgeParticipant @bodge]

Posted by Micheal Gilligan 06/07/2016 20;37;05

 

P.S. … This thread, from 2015, may be of interest.

Yes Micheal , i do remember the thread and also posted on said thread and did think at the time it was a bit over chucked and said as much to that effect, I thought he might have got away with it as i have seen Ml7s fitted with 5 inch 3 jaw chucks both in the flesh and in magazine articles over the years and as id not heard or read any thing about being detrimental to the life of the bearings, but that proved not to be so and if i remember correctly Myford sent an E mail stating they advise against fitting said chuck, if i remember right the chuck was branded HBM or HMB

As it happens i have HBM or HMB 5 inch chuck (it came with a lathe i bought for repair/ spares, not sure which as yet ) it makes a good door stop !

I read a post on here recently that TOS were making chucks for Pratt-Burnard but not the griptru ( think it was a John Stevenson post ) as for Zither so far all i have read about them has been good and Ketan from Arc Euro has posted on here more details of manufacture and standards they conform to and stands by them as being good chucks

I know Carl says he would have liked to stay below 100 quid mark (as im sure we all would) but you get what you pay for, its been said on here before buy cheap buy twice ! If you think about it there`s two points of contact on the work piece , the chuck and the tool so make the chuck a good `un hopefully you will be using it for many years to come so its worth going a bit over budget

On a final note i do think the 6 inch chuck is going to be a bit heavy for the spindle on your lathe ,………b

PS third choice would have been Vertex

Edited By bodge on 08/07/2016 03:47:08

Edited By bodge on 08/07/2016 04:04:36

[bodgeParticipant @bodge]

Hi Carl,

If you have a look at Arc euro`s site on the chucks page, they give the spec`s for their chucks, weights and dimensions . Have also been thinking about getting another 4 jaw indt , my first choice would have been TOS but they have got a bit pricey of late, so second choice will be Zither from Arc Euro,

Welcome to the forum , also have a Drummond 1903 model . ……….bodge

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 04/07/2016 15:41:12:

Other manufacturers' products are available

Rod

.

Very true **LINK**

MichaelG.

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Other manufacturers' products are available

Rod

[David lawrence 3Participant @davidlawrence3]

Hi all, I have just started turning down a new cast iron backplate to fit a collet ER32 chuck onto my new Warco wm240 lathe. I am using a new replacable carbide tool from ARC euro which is fine on all other jobs I have done, its has a sharp edge on it. but on this cast iron backplate the amount I can take off per run is very small, its all fine dust. should I be using some special toll apart from the normal range of tolls we all have. So far today I have taken off about 0.5mm in 2 hour, I need to remove 7mm, it will take days, must be doing something wrong. regards David

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Now that's what you call customer relations & after sales service, well done Ketan & ArcEuro.

George.

[Brian WoodParticipant @brianwood45127]

Hello Dave,

You can cut a keyway in an involute cutter with a square diamond file. It is slow work on HSS, the alternative is to spark erode it instead

Arc Euro sell sets of those files. I have no connection other than being very pleased to resolve just such a problem and open out a small half round keyway on a commercial cutter. Taking very light cuts without a keyway does not actually do the cutter any favours, they are intended to cut to full depth in one pass and will lose their edge if made to work in small bites.

Regards

Brian

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

Good on yer, Ketan!

Confirmation email 11.29am, 29/6 (yesterday) order delivered this morning, 30/6.

At least ArcEuro actually possess the goods advertised and rush them out to customers, unlike a certain other "supplier" who let me down this year – RU listening? As I got a full refund eventually, I`ll now drop the hatchet on that one.

Well done and keep it up Ketan.

John

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I use both types, the small set of three   have straight 1/2" shanks and get used a lot similar to these. I also have one with MT3 shank and with a 4to3 reducer fits the lathe spindle or straight into the mill.

Edited By JasonB on 29/06/2016 15:49:35

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

The SEIG KX1/KX2 CNC machines are only available form Arc (I think) but are quite a bit more expensive.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/CNC-Milling-Machines/Sieg-KX1-CNC-Hobby-Mill/Sieg-KX1-Hobby-CNC-Mill-Bundle

Neil

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

One big plus that might not be apparent to some on the C3 is the centre distance. The extra 100mm over some other machines does give more scope for drilling holes. An aspect people tend to forget. When lathes get down to 300mm centre distance and lower this can be much more of a problem.

The C2 has been mentioned. One retailer that a lot use on here ArcEuro have dropped that particular one as price wise the C3 makes more sense. General functionality does too.

While some one might think they don't need a lathe with a 500w or more motor variable speed raises it's head. As the speed is reduced the available power drops off. Some people on here that use larger lathes mostly run them on the low speed range because of this. Some have 2 speeds which are selected by changing the motor belt setting.

The other thing to appreciate is that there are a number of lathes around of similar size to the C3. Some go back to 300mm between centres. Some have screw cutting indicators. There are probably variations in the equipment they come with as well. The dealers that are usually mentioned are Arceuro, Warco, Amadeal, Axminster at times. Brian introduced Opti available in the UK from Excel in Coventry. Brian's C0 like machine had problems but some people seem to be pretty happy with their other models. Warco seem to be very popular on here especially for larger machines. Wonder when and if Ketan will offer the C8. There are also other retailers about. A number of them.

Vertical slides for milling are available for many lathes. These days it's seems to be a forgotten subject around here but can work rather well. A C3 is very likely to give you far more capacity for that than a C0. It's also possible to mount block like things on a face plate and that in fact is likely to give a better finish than can be achieved on smaller chinese millers.

Whoops forgot to mention Neil's machine which I think came from Machine Mart. He's done some rather extreme machining on his.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 29/06/2016 10:32:53

Edited By Ajohnw on 29/06/2016 10:37:04

[Brian JohnParticipant @brianjohn93961]

I use this tool on my small optimum lathe and it works well. The height has to be exact so you may have to experiment with some shims but when it is set up correctly it will whip right through brass and aluminium  with no problems. I have even cut stainless steel with it.

**LINK**

I bought an extra blade : one I keep with its original flat edge for recess cuts and the other one I put a sharp edge on it for parting off.

Edited By Brian John on 29/06/2016 08:21:09