Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Russ BParticipant @russb]

I had an old Myford Super 7 (a 1953, one of the very first)

It didn't have power cross feed and the clutch was problematic, in addition, the glass sight oiler could very, very easily allow dirt to be washed into the spindle nose bearing (luckily, mine had been cared for). The clutch I just had to live with as Myford soon completely redesigned it and spares aren't available (I didn't have the skills/confidence back then to reliably attempt to make new parts, although they were simple enough).

What I didn't appreciate, is that it's bed was like new and capable of easily making very accurate parts!!

So it strikes me, that the Myford 7 wasn't the golden wonder it was made out to be, and its "aura" made parts expensive, however it could cut though some serious steel, easily knocking 5-7mm off the diameter of a 50mm high carbon steel in a single pass without making a sound or vibration, it could be talked over while doing it) – if you tried that with a far eastern machine, If the tool post didn't tear away and the something in the drive didn't shatter, I would expect the bed to snap at the headstock (seriously) – I would guess taking 2-3mm off the diameter of a similar steel would be the limit. But what's the rush.

What matters is not what make/model you buy, it's what sort of condition its in. With the tool post and topside locked, will it turn parallel over 100mm by advancing the saddle using power feed, criteria number one for me, and not a straight forward answer, since it will have to be sat levelled, maybe have its tailstock feet shimmed to remove any twist in the bed and generally be in fine fettle to achieve this.

Second are it's spindle bearings in good condition, and if they're not, can they be easily replaced? Myford ML7's have white metal bearings, which cannot be replaced, you need to upgrade to a hardened spindle and phosphor bronze bearings (which is around £300-£500 for the parts alone if you can find someone who has one!) – other things, are more easily adjusted/replaced so long as the bed is straight and spindle points in the right direction!

If I were to do it all again, I would recommend to myself, to go and buy a new simple cheap lathe that will do screw cutting and learn how to get it setup and turning parallel, learn how to align the tailstock and get the hang of general machining operations etc.
If you decide it's not for you, you'll hardly lose a penny in value if you look after it! They cost £400-700 new from SPGtools/Chester Hobby Store/Warco/Amadeal/ArcEuroTrade, Amadeal had put a package together which included all the basic tools you'll need to make something to a tolerance, it came with cutting tools, measuring tools, and I think the magnet bases and dial indicators that you'll need to ensure the lathe is turning true and make the required adjustments

– Just to add to that, depending on what milling you need to do, a vertical slide for the lathe might cover all angle, and with a small bench top pillar drill you could be well on your way to easily creating whatever models you might want?

Edited By Russ B on 07/10/2016 14:12:02

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 07/10/2016 11:27:18:

Buy or make one of these, then stop worrying and enjoy your lathe:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Lathes/SIEG-C3-SC2-SC3-Mini-Lathes/C3-SC2-SC3-Mini-Lathe-Upgrades/Mini-Lathe-63-Tooth-Metal-Gearwheel

Neil

Yes, that will give sub 1% pitch errors for metric threads on an imperial lathe. Just remember to keep the half nut engaged and use reverse between each cut.

Russell.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Buy or make one of these, then stop worrying and enjoy your lathe:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Lathes/SIEG-C3-SC2-SC3-Mini-Lathes/C3-SC2-SC3-Mini-Lathe-Upgrades/Mini-Lathe-63-Tooth-Metal-Gearwheel

Neil

[ZebethyalParticipant @zebethyal]

@Rod,

Don't forget that without the 69.00 Euro license fee Nigel is restricted to 25 lines of Gcode.

@sam

You say that 5i25/7i76 is an over the top combination and go on to mention that a 7i92 is all that you need, yet this is the combination most mentioned anywhere I look for information on what Mesa boards to use.

I have re-read the description and manual of the 7i92 and yes, it would appear that it can be used stand-alone parallel port replacement – it would still need some form of breakout board even if it is a basic $4.00 Chinese one, since most home-brew conversions aren't parallel port ready

This also re-affirms my earlier point about it being difficult for someone new to work out what Mesa cards they need – no guidance on Mesa's own site, the LinuxCNC Wiki is amazingly vague on the subject, merely mentioning a large number of possibilities that should work and doesn't even mention the 7i92 card!

If I specifically search for the 7i92 card, I see very few posts about it, and many of those I do find are from the LinuxCNC forum which seem to be cries for help with using one – hardly a great advert.

To buy one I would need to order from the US, not necessarily an issue, but Mesa quote 6-8 week lead times, EUsurplus have no stock, and I have yet to find a UK supplier.

I like the idea of this board in that it de-couples from the required PC, making some form of laptop more of an option, or a mini PC that can fit behind the monitor.

One thing I am not so keen on with the Mesa breakout boards is that their screw terminals are too close to each other to use crimped ferrules, and pretty awful from a strain relief point of view – 90 degree plug in screw terminals would be a better option in that regard.

Edited By Zebethyal on 07/10/2016 09:33:53

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Hi Ketan, MEW 246 arrived here in Cairns, Oz, today. Not sure why it took several weeks longer than to reach Pero in Perth. The mysteries of logistics…

Nice catalogue. Several hours of good reading there. Could be dangerous for the credit card though!

Is Ausee.com.au still associated with ARC Eurotrade? Do they sell the same stuff here in Oz or must I pay the extra for shipping gear from manufacturers in Asia to UK then back again to us here in far south Asia?

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

We regularly get phone calls from customers wanting to understand how to put a Model 000 Quick Change Tool Post onto their mini-lathe. So we made a video, link below, which we are happy to share:

If used along with this kit, this quick change tool post can also fit onto a Myford. Video link below…. the first 1.30 minutes approximately is same as the video above:

Ketan at ARC.

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Posted by duncan webster on 03/10/2016 12:55:01:

EN tells you absolutely nothing, it's just a number. At least the BS970:1991 classification tells you something about the composition of the steel, 070M20 is 0.7% manganese, 0.2% carbon. If a stockholder doesn't understand a spec which is only 25 years old, perhaps you shouldn't deal with him.

Possibly a bit extreme. The EN 10027 std is a lot more specific than the noddy grade descriptions at the likes of Metal Supermarket, like "EN8" or "304".

The actual description used on the drawings tends to depend on the customer, so in China the grades are often JIS (sort of the default), EN (European) or DIN (for German customers).

I expect the "technical steel" subject to duty will be defined on a (black)list but in practice I suspect this will basically mean high value, specialist alloys, rather than bread and butter commodity steels.

PS, the EN stds are copyright but they seem to be visible with little search effort.

Edited By Muzzer on 03/10/2016 13:49:39

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

For fine work one of these with water.

Russell.

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

Hi Andrew,

I think that the information in the Gears and gear cutting book is just there to
make the point that there must be some clearance between meshed gears ,
just working that out on 20 DP size of gears using the 48 / 52 ratio gives a
backlash of 0.0063 inch ,i would have though that was too much.
Obviously the ideal situation would be to have the correct tooth profile ie
cut to the correct depth so that both gears mesh at pcd with the correct
backlash ,i doubt that could happen if the gears were cut with a ratio of
50 / 50.

The extract taken from a book that i have would seem to suggest what
you have said is correct to get some more backlash is to cut deeper ,the
photo of this is in the gears album.

I think the problem in some cases can be the lack of information ,the hobs
that i use are from Arc euro and have no information as to the infeed depth
only the setting angle for the helix.As i eventually found out the infeed is the
full depth of the cutter to the root in this way the correct tooth form is
generated,using these to make the internal cutter means that there is no
extra length to the cutting tooth to cut the clearance at the root of an internal
gear.

Many of the problems with internal gears seem to be connected to either
interference when cutting with a pinion type cutter where a part of the
tooth is trimmed during the radial infeed ,or where a fitted pinion contacts
the edge during engagement refered to as trochoidal interference .
In both these cases it seems this is related to the difference in the number
of teeth between the pinion and internal gear.As you have pointed out these
connections are related to PA ,addendum and DP.
The book i am refering to indicates a difference of 11 teeth between the
pinion and gear ,this seems to vary in some publications.

The 14 and 21 gears shown in one of the photos have only a 7 tooth
difference but still run together well without interference .i think this
is down to the modified form ,the gears can only be assembled
axially and for that reason the internal form was broached.

Getting back to the shaper part of this thread i am in the process of making
a fabricated shaper ,there are some photo's in my albums ,at present the
project has stalled but when done will have some stepper motors fitted ,like
all of the rest of my cnc machines it runs on Compucut,Richard Bartlett was
kind enough to write a special file to be used on this machine which sets
the ratio to control two rotary tables , one is a proper rotary table and the
other is a cutting head which will fit on the ram,as part of the file the motors
only move on the rearward movement of the ram ,as long as the file runs the
two remain in syncronization. Using a similar 20 tooth cutter to the one
seen cutting the 36 tooth internal gear and using a ratio of 2 to1 equals
40 teeth on the rotary table ,using a ratio of 6.35 equals 127 .One could
see how useful this could be as every tooth number can be generated
from about 32 (internal) upwards to the physical limit of the machine.
It only leaves to problem on producing the cutter ,here again the shaper
comes to the rescue as the machine that i am building will have stepper
motors on the table and the column ,using the table traverse and the rotary
table it becomes possible to traverse and rotate a blank in time to generate
an involute form cutter just using a single point tool ,although the process
would not be quick using a pre-gashed blank would be a sensible option.

I see from an earlier posting the price of some internal cutters can be
£1200 ,i think for most shed men using about 12 pence worth of silver
steel to make a cutter could be an attractive proposition.

It probably seem a lot of work to produce a machine to cut these gear
forms but shapers it seems have many other uses as well as to holding
down a piece of floor.

John

[bodgeParticipant @bodge]

There's this from Arc Euro, but it looks bit too robust:

hello Neil

That does look very close to the original Adept table, Bazyle's dimensions are about right, im trying to up lode some pics, might not be successful !

…………..b

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

There's this from Arc Euro, but it looks bit too robust:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Vee-Blocks-Angle-Plates/Tee-Slotted-Angle-Plate-65x5x45

My idea is to weld a pair of webs onto the angle and fit a tenon. Typical Adept quality there's a 1/16 deep by 1/2" machined slot along the middle t-slot, the other two are left wholly as cast and are decidedly wonky!

The drill table works, but does flex too much at least it let me get an idea of how it works and just how much space is needed.

A simple stepper with a belt drive to the feed handle will be easier to set up than fixing a ratchet, just needs a debounced microswitch to operate it.

Neil

[Brian JohnParticipant @brianjohn93961]

I used the parting tool from the Arc Euro cutting tool set to do it : this parting tool is too thick to use as a parting tool on my lathe but it worked perfectly for this. I put some back rake on it with the bench grinder. I was able to take a 0.1mm cut then just move it down the length of the cylinder until I got to the other end. I did this ten times at that was it.

I have ordered a 14.5mm  fly cutter to cut the flat…I may as well give it a go.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291799221718?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=590809882369&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I am thinking of making the control valve (part 21) next but it is supposed to be made from 6mm diameter stainless steel. There are two problems with that : there is an M2 thread to cut in the end and the rod must be a nice smooth finish to pass through a 4H7 hole. I think I would struggle to get a good finish on either stainless or silver steel on my lathe and as for drilling and tapping the M2 hole… I know how that would end !

Could I make the whole thing from gunmetal bronze ?

Edited By Brian John on 30/09/2016 10:35:35

[Gordon WParticipant @gordonw]

Can anyone tell me where to find the original query ? From J Wells ? I"ve searched the last few days worth with no luck. Interesting topic, do remember the stepped piston, didn't an east european company do a similar idea? Fuchs or jawa,or similar ? The old brain is going.

[Robin GrahamParticipant @robingraham42208]

A while since I started this thread I know, but as there was some interest I thought I should report on a recent discovery – a box of diamond pastes hidden in a drawer. I have no idea of why or when I bought them (from Arc Euro according to the labels), but the kit goes down to 0,5 microns – hand polishing down to that with those bog-standard yellow dusting cloths gives a very fine finish indeed. As an experiment I tried to further refine the surface with Autosol, using the same technique, but it was a retrograde step.

Rob.

Edited By Robin Graham on 28/09/2016 00:10:03

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Hobby direct drive isn't around the next corner, it's been left behind at the last one!

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/High-Speed-Spindles-Motors-Inverters/ER20-High-Speed-Spindle-11kW-148HP-24000rpm

Neil

[richardandtracyParticipant @richardandtracy]

Posted by Donald Williamson on 25/09/2016 11:41:47:

Hi, I also have recently purchased a Warco 250v lathe and had an, arceuro quick change tool post which I used on my old clarke lathe, all I needed to do was enlarge the reses under the tool post ,I olso made more tool holders from the scrap box works fine and didn't cost much.

Donald Williamson

Can I ask, was the Clarke a CL500M & which ArcEuro QC toolpost did you use? I have the Warco variant of the Clarke & that could well be very useful.

Regards,

Richard

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

Hi Andrew,

The 36 tooth gear that was made on the Dore westbury was only done as a
try out just to see if it would work.There is some additional information
on the thread " Pneumatic brake for CNC rotary table By Phil W " listed
under home building of cnc machine tools. In the thread he describes
how he cut the internal ring gear for a very nice radial engine that he made.

The hob at the start feeds in to the blank to the full depth of the tooth,the hob
is locked in position in the quill and does not rotate,the gear blank is mounted
on the rotary table and moves 2 deg and the machine moves X and Y to keep
in time with this.In this way the cutter rolls around inside the gear blank .
In one rotation of the rotary table only 20 teeth are formed to cut the 36 teeth
needs 1.8 revolutions.
It is not really a very efficient method of production but served the purpose in
proving that it worked

Going back to the epicyclic gear at 36 teeth the planet gears are 13 tooth
deducting 2 times 13 from the 36 would leave 10 tooth for the sun gear
this can't be used as it is not divisible by 3 ,so a 9 tooth sun gear was cut
(hobbed) on the Pcd of a 10 tooth gear.This is one of the problems that
one could encounter when trying to make internal gears especially if that you are
using single row form gear cutters as the gear blank sizes have to be adhered
to.
The planet gears are unmodified and left at standard size ,if you tried to fit
modified gears in the ring gear they will lock up ,this seems to be a peculiarity
with this type of gearing obviously the sun gear meshes ok with the planet gears
as these sort of modification do not affect normal gear trains.

Refering to the book "Gears and gear cutting" by Ivan law on page 30 and 31
refers to tooth proportions in particular the thickness of the tooth and space
at the pitch line quoting the tooth as .48 of the circular pitch and the space
as .52 of the circular pitch.
Hobbing the cutter in the way that i did this is clearly not the technically best solution
and really needs the cutter to be made to take account of the .52 space size.
The Arc euro hobs that i use i think are topping cutters so cut the correct tooth form
as they cut the the root the flanks and on the od ,unfortunately this means that when trying
to cut this type of shaper cutter there will be no clearance at the root of the tooth in the
internal gear ,to counter this the planet gears are reduced slightly on the od to give some
clearance.
The book that i have describes suitable tooth forms as , 20 deg full depth modified, 20 deg
stub and 14.5 deg involute is not recommended.

It is certainly an interesting subject i hope to see some more input from the forum on this,probably needs its own thread though.

John

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

Hi
yes a later model than mine even has the elf + safety cover over the gears! – is the gear chart appropriate as my SL90 has a 1mm metric lead screw though scales give impression of a 40 thou per revolution – had he moved to a larger spindle thread by the time of this model (BTW the 3.5in swing is really only usable with the faceplate tho apparently very useful for handling the wheels of smaller gauge locos – otherwise you are limited to 1″ over the actual bed)

but like Michael the set is nice one to sell complete (there were additional fittings suitable for gear cutting that I thought your watchmaker donor might have bought) – though to be honest unless you are looking for a small almost watchmaker size lathe then a newcomer would I think be better off buying a small lathe from the likes of ArcEuro as the Perris is quite restricted in some ways due to its size

Anyway please let us know what you intend to do – I might well be interested in the set as having a small workshop in SE UK and a retirement place without room for a real workshop in IoM, having 2 compatible sets 250miles apart might be tempting

Edited By Frances IoM on 25/09/2016 12:09:07

[Donald WilliamsonParticipant @donaldwilliamson36047]

Hi, I also have recently purchased a Warco 250v lathe and had an, arceuro quick change tool post which I used on my old clarke lathe, all I needed to do was enlarge the reses under the tool post ,I olso made more tool holders from the scrap box works fine and didn't cost much.

Donald Williamson

[Peter Marsh 3Participant @petermarsh3]

Hope this doesn't break the Topic rule about financial gain – I'm just looking for advice on potential value. If the item does have any value, I may advertise in the appropriate section.

Some time ago I was given a Perris Lathe by an old neighbour, who used it for his watchmaking hobby and suchlike. I have been toying with the idea of learning how to use it, as it is something totally different from my work experience, which is mainly in accounting and computers. However, have now decided that isn't going to happen, and am looking to move it on to someone who can make use of it. But I don't want to get ripped off, so would like to tap the experience and knowledge on this Forum, if that's ok. Bought the latest Model Engineering, and the arcEurotrade catalogue has helped me to identify the correct name for some of the parts, tools, metal rods (both 'scrap' and still fine brass rods still in original box), measuring tools and a 'run out gauge' that are with the lathe – scattered around various boxes!

The lathe looks to date back to 1971, and has SB40 stamped on the base; and SC46 on the slide. The paperwork/ brochure does not identify the model, merely stating it is a Perris Lathe. It is 9” between centres, 3 ½” Swing over Bed. From Perris Engineering (Brighton), though the handtyped Working Instruction and Maintenance booklet is from Meadow Road Industrial Estate, Worthing. The is various assorted technical data including a Gear Chart.

One of the boxes appears purpose built and contains for example a PA7 Vertical Milling Slide Swivel Base along with assorted chucks, collets, wheels and small cogs.

It was powered by what appears to be an adapted Bench Grinder – and LDC Split Phase Motor Lancashire Crypto, which is connected to a double switch arrangement in a very 'Heath Robinson' looking wooden box arrangement. The Lathe itself is mounted on a wooden base, with what looks like an old sewing machine box as a cover. The power line for the Motor has been mislaid.

I see from one of the three Perris threads on this Forum that Perris eventually became, or was taken over by, Cowells who continued production of this type of lathe……with integral power and speed controls.

There is also a Using the Small Lathe by L C Mason, published in 1971, priced at 60p!

So……is a 1971 Perris of any use/ value, as without that integral power and speed control it appears outdated and obsolete…or does it have some value as a useful tool and/ or Collector's item? Would greatly appreciate any advice and guidance.

[Chris TriceParticipant @christrice43267]

Posted by John Stevenson on 18/09/2016 18:59:04:

Oh I'm pleased that has come up on this thread.
I'm 99.9% sure that's me.

But for the record I stated that Myfords are over rated and are living on a name. A point of view I still hold. A Boxford for example is a far better lathe and can be bought for half the price.

That would be a valid opinion no Myford owner should take offence at but…

"Chances are though that the new owner would have ripped everything off as it wasn't genuine Myford, filled all the holes in and painted it back to colour me standard.

All the while muttering about bodgers and heretics and why could he not have left it standard as Myford's MUST have known what they were doing [ if so it was a first ]"

That offends all Myford owners. There are more examples but I have neither the will or time to search out other swipes. This is why I don't come here anymore or buy from Arc Euro Trade.

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Pat Wright 1 on 23/09/2016 09:23:37:

Hi Ketan,

Received MEW 246 and Arc Euro Trade No 10 today (Saturday) here in Hamilton, N.Z.

Pat

Just over two and a half weeks – thats good to know. thank you.

Ketan at ARC.

[Pat Wright 1Participant @patwright1]

Hi Ketan,

Received MEW 246 and Arc Euro Trade No 10 today (Saturday) here in Hamilton, N.Z.

Pat

[Dave Harding 1Participant @daveharding1]

I can not find a board anything like it on any of the suppliers web sites. I had a look on ARC euro none of there components look anything like it.

I have done google searches to no avail. A company in America does them but that is no use to me.

I have jobs stacked up but no lathe to do them with. I should of bought a Myford. As they say once bitten twice shy up to now my model engineering experiences have been not good to say the least.

I am thinking a different hobby might be prudent cheaper and more rewarding.  If I can not fix it  I will be not buying another.

Edited By Dave Harding 1 on 23/09/2016 00:38:04

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Posted by Mike Clarke on 15/09/2016 20:23:06

Lovely mill apart from the aluminium handwheels! I used to get filthy using mine.

Absolutely! I replaced the handles on mine with these, the 50mm version. The M6 thread sticks in the 1/4 UNF hole surprisingly well . You could drill out for the 8mm version though (or use a dab of Loctite on the smaller one). Incidentally, I tried the rotating handle ones but much prefer the feel of the fixed ones.

Rod