Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

This thread only refers to distribution of printed paper copies of MEW 246 and ME 4543.

I received my paper subscription copy of MEW 246 on Wednesday last week – 7th September 2016. This is the one with the picture of Georg Schlesinger on the front cover.

I received my paper subscription copy of ME 4543 today – Thursday 15th September 2016. This is the one with the picture of London Transport Bus on the front cover.

Our Arc Euro Trade catalogue no.10 has been supplied with both of these issues.

The reasons for this thread is to find out if subscribers have received their copies of MEW 246. For ME subscribers, I am hoping that most of you will receive your copies of ME 4543 by this weekend / early next week. We would like to make sure that Royal Mail distribution is working as it should, and that you have received our catalogue.

If you are paper copy subscriber and if you have failed to receive a copy of either of these two issues, please post your comment on here.

MEW 246 should already be available from your usual WH Smiths with our catalogue, and with ME4543 at WH Smiths by the weekend / early next week.

Overseas subscribers should get them in due course.

Our catalogue will also be available to order shortly from our website.

Any feedback on delivery will be very much appreciated.

Ketan at ARC.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Bill Wood 2 on 14/09/2016 14:16:14:

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 14/01/2016 09:47:56:

Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 14/01/2016 09:26:10:

That's the first really clear explanation I've seen of why a 63 (or 21) tooth gear works so well, as a driver, for metric conversion.

Shame on you Rod, you must have missed the excellent article in MEW 204

Neil

From Issue 204 : These should be cut by thread milling, using the leadscrew to turn the mandrel with the lathe switched off. To dothis a toolpost milling spindle and a leadscrew handwheel such as that described by Alastair Sinclair (Model Engineer’s Workshop, issue 91, July 2003) will be needed.

Am curious ……… what would the milling cutter look like in the thread milling process described above ? Would it be a very skinny vee shaped end mill ? or a chunky slitting saw with a vee shaped cutting profile ?

From memory, you are referring to my comment on making threads with a pitch significantly greater than the leadscrew.

The usual cutter shape is like a gear cutter, (sort of like a chunky slitting saw but with about 10 or 12 teeth) obviously shaped to match the thread profile.

You can make and use a single point cutter but it's a lit slower.

In principle a shaped end mill would work, but you are talking a lot of effort to make one unless you need a square thread.

Neil

[BWParticipant @bw]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 14/01/2016 09:47:56:

Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 14/01/2016 09:26:10:

That's the first really clear explanation I've seen of why a 63 (or 21) tooth gear works so well, as a driver, for metric conversion.

Shame on you Rod, you must have missed the excellent article in MEW 204

Neil

From Issue 204 : These should be cut by thread milling, using the leadscrew to turn the mandrel with the lathe switched off. To dothis a toolpost milling spindle and a leadscrew handwheel such as that described by Alastair Sinclair (Model Engineer’s Workshop, issue 91, July 2003) will be needed.

Am curious ……… what would the milling cutter look like in the thread milling process described above ? Would it be a very skinny vee shaped end mill ? or a chunky slitting saw with a vee shaped cutting profile ?

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Rich,

I have an old Sieg X2 milling machine myself, it has not caused any trouble for me. But it is a lightweight milling machine, so I use relatively small cutters, up to 12mm. There are some plastic gears in the head, so I have not pushed it.
A friend of mine has a SX2 with a brushless DC motor, seems to have more torque at low speeds than mine, ARC has a version with longer table than mine have.

Thor

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Martin Kyte on 13/09/2016 14:25:14:

Arc Euro do this stuff which is actually specified as a corrosion inhibitor rather than a low friction wax.

**LINK**

I cannot say how well it works as I have not tried it but it's what I would go for if I needed to.

If you do use it perhaps you could tell us all how you got on.

regards Martin

We put it in a garden spray bottle, and spray a very fine mist onto all our display machines. All machines have been touched by visitors. Non of them know that the machines have been sprayed. We clean off the dust and dirt about once every two months with a de-greaser, and re-spray with Metalguard. We have been doing this for over ten years, even when we went to shows with the machines.

For a while we stopped selling them for commercial reasons, and we just re-introduced them.

It does not work well near coastal locations… hence the poor review on another sellers site. However, this has not been made clear by the negative reviewer, and the seller has failed to point this out!.

Ketan at ARC.

 

Edited By Ketan Swali on 13/09/2016 14:48:10

[Martin KyteParticipant @martinkyte99762]

If it's not a rude question,how old are you? Some younger people do have 'rusty hands'. This effect seems to ease off as one gets older a little like acne.

Personally I would be a little wary of coating everything with that wax. It is specifically an anti friction wax for the bottom of plane irons, woodworking machine tables etc. I use it on my bandsaw table and surface plate both of which need to be oil free but slippery. Add it to a chuck (jaws) and you are asking for trouble gripping the work-piece.

I would not have thought you would be seeing a condensation issue at this time of the year (assuming you are in the northern hemisphere).

Have you just had a lot of concreting or building done because that can throw a lot of water about and I have a gut feeling it makes the air chemistry shift from a neutral pH. (That maybe just me)

I don't really use anything as anti-rust as my workshop is fairly constant re temperature and contains a lot of wood which acts as a humidity buffer.

The first thing I would suggest is good ventilation and if you have a humidity meter keep acheck on the workshop over a few days to see whats happening. Metalworking machines are usually coating in a film of oil so don't really suffer.

Arc Euro do this stuff which is actually specified as a corrosion inhibitor rather than a low friction wax.

**LINK**

I cannot say how well it works as I have not tried it but it's what I would go for if I needed to.

If you do use it perhaps you could tell us all how you got on.

regards Martin

[Brian WoodParticipant @brianwood45127]

Hello Richard,

​One of my early purchases was a boring head. I had by then built my Dore-Westbury milling machine and it has had a lot of use over the years. It also has uses on the lathe, opening out holes on work clamped to the cross slide and as an offset fitting in the tailstock for setting over the work for shallow tapers without having to realign the tailstock again after the work is done.

There are good designs for home assembly, failing that buy the best you can afford. It may not have everyday use, but there are some jobs that can't be done without it.

Of tool suppliers, I think Arc Eurotrade now lead the way in the kind of equipment aimed at our size of market. I used to buy from Chronos, but like Andrew Johnson I had several disappointments with quality issues and moved away. In fairness to them, there was never any dispute, but time and effort was wasted sending stuff back.

Regards

Brian.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Hi Richard!

Welcome. (i am a little further north, just off the A1 and A47)

You will get a lot of advice and knowledge here, (and some leg pulling).

When I first started, I was a Chronos customer, (still am from time to time), but mostly deal with Arc EuroTrade.

Ketan sometimes posts on here. he is a really fair minded bloke, and will help even when there is nothing in it for him as a trader.

Tooltips, I tend to buy from Jenny at J B Cutting Tools. Again, a pleasure to deal with, and is at most of the shows.

Try making a Tangential Tool Holder, it will be time well spent, and cheaper than buying one.

You can make a lot of tools and fixtures for that "one off" job, and save time and temper!

If you are not a member, do find your local M E Club and join. Again, you should get a lot of help and advice.

If you have a problem having someone come round and help, hands on, or saying "Bring it round, and we'll sort it out" is a HUGE help.

Enjoy yourself

Howard

[davebParticipant @daveb17630]

I use a Bridgeport M head which has a captive drawbar. It's a nuisance to have to unscrew the drawbar locking ring to use a drill chuck (mine all have tangs). I want to buy a drill arbor to fit the drawbar. Arc Eurotrade only have 10mm. HBM list threaded arbors but state the thread as being 3/8 UNF. All my collets and other tooling are either 3/8 BSW or 3/8 UNC, for all practical purposes, they are interchangeable. How many different threads do MT2 arbors have?

Dave

[Martin 100Participant @martin100]

the SX3 mills have a smaller table size and travel than the build 2 mills

For another 180 quid they probably don't (got this larger table on my X3)

**LINK**

[Tim DouglasParticipant @timdouglas77553]

I'm in the market for a milling machine. I've narrowed my choice down to a "1KW Brushless DC Motor and Belt Drive" mill. From my research there appears to be two different OEM builds:

OEM Build 1 – SIEG SX3

• Arc Euro Trade SX3
• Axminster SX3

OEM Build 2 – does anyone know the OEM of the following mills?

• Amadeal AMAT25LV
• Toolco VM30V-B
• Warco WM-16B
• Titan Mill TM25V
• Grizzly G0704
• Precision Matthews PM-25MV

I would like your opinions on the following:

1) While the mills in the two builds above appear mostly similar, the SX3 mills have a smaller table size and travel than the build 2 mills, but they are priced considerable more then the build 2 mills. Can anyone explain why? What feature am I not seeing that makes the SX3 mills more expensive?

2) The SX3 mills support power tapping but there's no mention of this feature with the build 2 mills. The build 2 mills do have forward and reverse, but is this the same as power tapping? Is anyone power tapping on those mills?

Your help is greatly appreciated

[Danny M2ZParticipant @dannym2z]

Posted by sparky mike on 08/09/2016 06:41:15:

Re Chinese tools ect.

The Chinese are getting better at quality products all the time, but at times they lack good old fitting skills.

The Chinese are capable of producing high quality products, no doubt about that. When my friend recently visited Shanghai he told me that he could have whatever level of quality control that he was prepared to pay for.

The end-price would be affected though, so he was considering whether it is worthwhile to send his own people to liase (Q.C. inspectors) but he sensed that the locals might be a bit offended by this suggestion.

He is now checking out some manufacturing facilities in Eastern Europe, but their prices are increasing steadily and some of the manufacturing plant is getting a bit long in the tooth (his comments).

At the end of the day, my ER 25 collets (of Chinese origin) are perfectly acceptable and accurate enough for day-to-day work. I did purchase them from a local supplier so that I had some come-back if they were defective.

I could have purchased them slightly cheaper from fleabay but then it's a bit of a lottery with zero support. Nowhere near what ARC gave to our intrepid customer.

* Danny M *

p.s. It is going to be interesting to find out what the eventual problem was.

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

MEW246 arrived this morning with Arceuro catalogue. Ketan said above that he knows several people around the country have got 246. Well I expect they have ordered from his catalogue which was included.
ME 4542 arrived a few days ago – cannot remember exactly when.
Changed buses @ Churchill Sq.in Brighton today so I could check WH Smith. No MEW, 2 of ME4542, 2 of EIM, 4 of Narrow Gauge World, all of which I subscribe to.

Edited By DMB on 07/09/2016 23:21:33

[Arnljot SeemParticipant @arnljotseem72268]

Posted by Ketan Swali on 07/09/2016 16:12:26:

I would respectfully advise that your knowledge of Chinese manufacturing units is very limited. Based on your limited experience, to tar everything from China which is cheap, to be 'cheap Chinese junk' is incorrect.

We happen to buy ER products from the same Chinese factory as Vertex, which you happened to find reasonable. ER collets come in about three grades, all of which has been discussed so many times that the same old stuff gets repeated, again and again. in simple terms, these grades are: 1-Crap, 2-General – for manual machine use, and 3-High grade for CNC machine application. We sell the General grade. Howeever, makers and sellers use/abuse these classifications for the holders as well as the related collets.

Without naming names, some of the well known brands in the West also buy ER stuff from specific factories in China. You just have to take my word for it, or choose to believe otherwise. More than 60% of ER world consumption – good, bad and ugly comes out of China, followed by India, and from within Europe/the West to a small specialised extent.

Ketan at ARC.

Yes, I have limited experience with milling and ER collets, but have long consumer experience with tools of all sorts. I have been working with cars and other mechanical installations for over 30 years as a hobby. My father owned an electronics factory that had a large machining department with many advanced milling and turning machines. I used to work there every summer from 12 to 24. I know what quality electronics and mechanical work looks and feels like. The ER collets I received, from I guess China (No manufacturer name, no country of origin), were in your first category, JUNK. The problem for me as a consumer is that I don't know what I get when I order a no-brand Chinese stuff from an online shop. I am sure you pick and chose the good stuff when you select your goods, but I don't know that when I place my first order. The Chinese have, unfortunately for their good manufacturers, worked up a reputation for making things cheap but not very good. Say Swiss, and I think high quality. Say Chinese, and I think cheap and mostly rubbish. There is a reason used machines, tools and tooling from Europe and America is so sought after and relatively expensive: quality. An old beat up bench vice from a known European manufacturer cost more than a brand new Chinese. My Myford Super 7 lathe was purchased by my dad for his factory in the late fifties, and still works great. It has been my platform for learning turning.

I have been burned too many times, and got fooled again. The collet set were €110 for 18 collets and Regofix are €150 for the six I need (now). I will probably use those collets in 30 years if I live that long… Of course I willingly buy Chinese goods (at the expense of the European worker) many times. Sometimes its good enough for what I am doing, and I don't need to use it much. Many times I have to dump it, and fork out the money for a quality piece.

Sorry for the rant, I have nothing against ARC and the goods you sell, I am a customer and will return. It's just that our crave for cheap stuff has become a disease that is ruining our economy and the planet. My parents had stuff that lasted a lifetime. Today we fill our homes with junk that lasts a couple of years at best. It costs nothing, so nothing gets repaired. I find great pleasure in restoring and improving quality objects like my Myford from the fifties and my Schaublin from the seventies. Btw, my cars ar older quality cars as well.

Arnljot (an old fart that thinks everything was better before

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Arnljot Seem on 07/09/2016 09:26:12:

The new chuck is from Vertex, and seem to be of reasonable quality. I have since discovered that a Regofix chuck come at the same price as Vertex. The collets are more expensive though.

The Vertex chuck seems to be of decent quality though. I'd like to hear if others have experience with them.

I think I will resolve this by returning the Vertex chuck, and order a Regofix and a smaller selection of Regofix collets. They are about €23-24 (£20 ish) a piece before sales tax.

Lesson learned: stay away from cheap Chinese junk, better to buy less tools of high named quality.

I would respectfully advise that your knowledge of Chinese manufacturing units is very limited. Based on your limited experience, to tar everything from China which is cheap, to be 'cheap Chinese junk' is incorrect.

We happen to buy ER products from the same Chinese factory as Vertex, which you happened to find reasonable. ER collets come in about three grades, all of which has been discussed so many times that the same old stuff gets repeated, again and again. in simple terms, these grades are: 1-Crap, 2-General – for manual machine use, and 3-High grade for CNC machine application. We sell the General grade. Howeever, makers and sellers use/abuse these classifications for the holders as well as the related collets.

Without naming names, some of the well known brands in the West also buy ER stuff from specific factories in China. You just have to take my word for it, or choose to believe otherwise. More than 60% of ER world consumption – good, bad and ugly comes out of China, followed by India, and from within Europe/the West to a small specialised extent.

Ketan at ARC.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Thanks for the replies guys;

… 'the taper may be eccentric. Can you get a lever type dti up into the MT2 as far as possible and test that'…

Will give that a try, just assumed that taper would be co-axial to the quill shaft as it is usually part 'n' parcel of the shaft & ground as such . Hmm assumptions.

p.s. must give credit to ArcEuro team for their assistance

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Posted by mechman48 on 01/09/2016 09:42:13:

Nice to see that I'm not the only one having this problem. My original collet chuck has a run out of .004", which is a phenomenal amount, so I bit the bullet & ordered a new chuck from my usual supplier. this new chuck when fitted has the same problem, I have fitted various size cutters into it & still have same run out. I did some tests to check where the fault could lie…

The run out of my mill spindle is .0005" ( 1/2 thou' ), with the new collet chuck, with the same dti set up, it showed the internal taper run out of .004-5 thou', when fitted with either a 3/8 tool steel or 12 mm cutter the same run out shows up. To me this indicated that the internal taper didn't run co-axially true with the MT2 taper.

I have raised the question with the supplier via an e mail plus a couple of video clips, they requested I sent the chuck back for investigation, the response from them was that their investigations revealed no run out greater than .001"… ( their video clips showed no discrepancy ), so I am at a loss at the moment. I have requested could they provide any further suggestions, also possibly an exchange / replacement chuck, I await their reply

George.

… I have now received a reply…

“Hi George,

Thanks for your reply.

We really don’t know what to suggest. On receipt, we cleaned every component with meths, took out a 3/8” collet and round bar for the second test from our stock, cleaned them and tested as you can see from our video.

We have seen your video. You have seen ours. We are unable to replicate the fault, and feel that the problem could lie elsewhere. Inaccuracy could be in a collet or spindle or elsewhere too. We really don’t know. These products don’t come with a test certificate, and it is extremely rare that we come across a problem such as this. When we do, we check and replace if found to be faulty. This is a product which is consistent in quality, which we buy from a specific manufacturer, who makes for well established ‘world brands’.

As we are unable to replicate the fault, we are unable to consider a replacement for this product. We are happy to return it to you. On return, it will be coated with metal guard – protective oil (as meths would have taken off any original oil/dirt), so before use you will need to clean it.

Alternatively, we are happy to give you a refund for the item – excluding return carriage, once we receive the C spanner back from you which was originally supplied with the product.

We are happy to consider either of the above options.

Kind Regards

Your Enquiries Team at

Arc Euro Trade Ltd.

… I rejected their offer of a refund as I wanted to have the chuck to look at other avenues to resolve the run out. I cleaned all my collets, the chuck & nut, & the MT on the mill with surgical spirit, no improvement, I have looked up other forums & t’internet & applied a couple of suggested tips without any improvement. I am at a loss now as to which direction to go, having rejected Arc Euro’s refund offer initially, I feel that option will no longer be available. Is there anyone in the Teesside area that has a mill with MT2 taper that I /they could check my chuck for comparison please pm me.

George.

[Nick HulmeParticipant @nickhulme30114]

Posted by colin hawes on 01/09/2016 10:20:34:

I would only expect precision if the collet is a slide fit on the cutter shank; too much ( ie more than 1/2 mm) looseness is likely to reduce parallel gripping accuracy. Although ER collets have a greater gripping range than this it is not wise to make full use of this if it can be avoided. I have many cheap ER collets from ArcEuro and have found the accuracy to always be good Colin

ER11 are 1/2mm intervals as 1mm intervals would push flex beyond elastic limits in small collets.

I don't have issues with ER40 collets close to lower size limit,

– Nick

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

There are ER40 collet chucks available with certain recess sizes. Not sure of the size of the reces on a mini lathe

**LINK**

I would have thought that a 4 jaw which may have come with the lathe and a purchase of a decent DTI would be a better investment for one offs.

John

–

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

For a large size I am intending to use something like these

**LINK**

Along with a face mill for 1604 sized inserts. The face mill sizes set the size of the inserts and to save having to buy more than one type so the end mill needs to be 25mm. 10 inserts are about £40 so each end mill works out at £8. Can't sharpen them though.

I'll either modify a morse blank end arbour to hold it or machine the cutter to a size I can cope with. ArcEuro stock some morse shell mill arbors. I just got round to ordering that and a 50mm face mill. The end mill can wait until I need it. I'm hoping Arc's arbors are good. Never know might see some cheap hss shell mills, doubt it though.

John

–

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Jim,

If you want to grip a 25mm diameter rod you will need an ER-40 collet system, may be something like this, from ARC. You could of course use a 4-jaw independent chuck.

I made an ER-32 chuck for my smaller lathe and I am satisfied, but ER-32 collets only go up to 20mm.

Thor

 

Edited By Thor on 01/09/2016 17:27:16

[colin hawesParticipant @colinhawes85982]

I would only expect precision if the collet is a slide fit on the cutter shank; too much ( ie more than 1/2 mm) looseness is likely to reduce parallel gripping accuracy. Although ER collets have a greater gripping range than this it is not wise to make full use of this if it can be avoided. I have many cheap ER collets from ArcEuro and have found the accuracy to always be good Colin

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Arnljot,

I have never come across your problem with my cheap ER collets. Have you tried with another nut? Seems to me that the nut is compressing the collet a bit, or the "groove" in the collet is not deep enough.

I use Ball Bearing nuts from ARC, and the work very well.

Thor

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

I followed a link to one horror story off the one Michael posted. Personally when there is problems that mean dealing with just about anybodies customer services I feel it pays to remember that the person on the end is just doing their job and in all probability has nothing what so ever to do with what some one might be complaining about. They might also have handled heaven knows how many calls on exactly the same subject. They haven't much alternative to say what they have been told to say what ever they themselves might think about it.

If people remember this and even explain that they know that this is the case they might even get some help. In this paypal case though that looks doubtful.

Fraud may be one of there reason but I strongly suspect that the other 2 I mentioned will come in to it as both of them are pretty obvious and there could also be other side effects. I don't know how many people have tried transferring money from a UK bank to some ones EU Euro account. Unlike the rest of the EU we can not just do it as if it was a branch of the same bank as the rest of the EU can. Same branch? My wife wanted to transfer some money from a Barcley's account to a Lloyds one today in a Lloyds bank. Best way is to get cash from the cash machine from the Barcley's account out of the Lloyd's machine and then deposit it into the Lloyd's one. No problem doing it that way.

Many people in the EU find it hard to believe that our banks will charge for transferring into one of their euro accounts when they don't have that problem. Our bank's answer – it's possible to split the fee between the sender and the receiver. They may have made changes in how money gets to paypal. That could be another reason for the change.

John

–

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Brian Wood on 29/08/2016 18:22:03:

…

​Do a Google search for oilers, plenty of choice in all sizes

Regards

Brian

The ways of the internet defeat me sometimes. I'd searched before. Definitely no 6mm button oilers to be found anywhere. I'd bet the farm on it.

Just tried again,. Guess what – ArcEuroTrade do them.

Perhaps it's me…

Ta,

Dave