Search Results for 'arc euro'

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

I concur, the belt is the same dimensions for the Chester machine and the Sieg C1…….

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C1-Lathe-Spares/C1-131-Timing-Belt

not sure on the 'XL' measurement…

Edited By John Rudd on 02/06/2017 16:37:21

[choochoo_balooParticipant @choochoo_baloo]

Related to my OP, I actually want to remove the original arbor on my Jacobs No 34 chuck. I decided it's needless to buy a new chuck when this British Jacobs is likely much better.

As a learning exercise more than anything, I wish to replace the arbor with a new tang style one from Arc Euro.

I have attached a couple of photos; can someone please direct me to, or upload a Jacobs Taper chart, since after having a quick look on Jacob's website doesn't help me identify what mine will be; to then buy with MT 2 other end from Arc.

[BizibilderParticipant @bizibilder]

The manual for the multi-mini is here: https://chestermachinetools.forumchitchat.com/post/manual-for-the-mini-multi-7111323

If the manual is correct the belt may be the same as the C1 lathe supplied by Arc Euro – http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C1-Lathe-Spares/C1-131-Timing-Belt although as far as I can tell this is an "XL" size belt of 5mm pitch.

Edited By Bizibilder on 02/06/2017 15:51:47

Edited By Bizibilder on 02/06/2017 15:52:09

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 01/06/2017 18:09:24:

Tapers are 'Quite Interesting'. Morse Tapers are cut at an angle that locks to resist turning but will release when pulled or pushed out. The Jacob Tapers are cut at an angle designed to jam in the matching socket more-or-less permanently. Getting a JT6 chuck off the arbour is more likely to be a problem than getting it to stick in the first place: Arc sell wedges for the purpose.

I don't understand why one taper angle jams solid while the other releases. Clever stuff.

.

It certainly was clever stuff, Dave

… Which makes it somewhat depressing that the modern 'Euro Standard' B16 taper has the same angle as MT2.

Making it largely a matter of chance which one releases first.

.. 'though of course the B16 is shorter, so

MichaelG.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Have a look in …

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Chucks/Drill-Chuck-Arbors/MT2-Drill-Chuck-Arbors-with-Drawbar-Thread

​… usual disclaimer.

5th one down on the list should solve your query

George

[MWParticipant @mw27036]

I believe in 1948 there was an international agreement between the U.S and U.K to tie up their systems so that you could easily switch between the two.

If you consider the fact that the U.S (13 colonies) was a colony started by and large the british as well as governed. With the capital in Virginia as opposed to Columbia like it is now. They are kinda using the same system. and even more so when you consider the above stated.

'The British Standards Institute defined the inch as 25.4mm in 1930 in the document "Metric Units in Engineering: Going SI". In March 1932 the American Standards Association were asked to rule on whether to adopt the same value (at the time the American inch was 1/.03937 mm which approximated to 25.400051 mm). Because the values were so close, and because Britain has already settled on that value, the ASA adopted this value on March 13, 1933.'

​​There was apparently a Scottish Inch at one point too. One might say that the units themselves, pertaining to latin in origin, are older than the term for the whole system. And hence why they crop up in pre-metricated European nations too. 

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 31/05/2017 23:09:21

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

I've always hankered after a Super 7 but could never afford the silly money, personally speaking I reckon the 254S is a better option, if you need to do small stuff use a Stevenson hexagonal collet block gripped in the 3 jaw chuck, I use one in my WM250V-F 3 jaw on a regular basis, no probs with accuracy, no doubt Myford aficionado's will differ…

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Collet-Fixtures/Stevensons-ER25-Collet-Blocks … usual disclaimer.

or make a collet chuck to suit.

George.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

You can get teh Zither chucks from ARC, said to be good quality, but as you can see as they use a key they are a bit longer than the usual threaded body M14 and M12 offerings that just use two pins to tighten the chuck and there is the backplate thicknes sto add on.

A lot will depend on how your modified chuck was held when it was altered, if just gripped by the body then runout could result, I find the best way is to fit a stout bit of bar into the larger lathes chuck and take a skim cut off to true it up, then the small chuck can be tightend onto that and the fixing modified preferably with a screwcut thread rather than a tapped one

 

No I have a Warco, I did add the bit about the Jason lathe into your thread title as I knew Michael had one and hoped he would see your post.

Edited By JasonB on 30/05/2017 17:54:47

[Neil LickfoldParticipant @neillickfold44316]

Here are a couple of links that you will find helpful,

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/machineguides/Mini-Lathe-Angular-Contact-Bearing-Change-Guide.pdf

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/7x-spindle-and-spindle-bearing-upgrade.32865/

Neil

[Iain DownsParticipant @iaindowns78295]

I guess I'm less concerned with getting the bearings in place than the process of 'pre-loading'. If the fit is too tight it will be hard (maybe?) to put the right load on or take it off. That's when I wonder if I should be concerned about the fit.

Neil (W) – the source of my informations is step 54 of **LINK**

Michael G. I don't have any concern about the smoothness of the new spindle, just the fit. However, I did manage to er, squash, the ends of my mill leadscrews by overenthusastic more wrenching when trying to to remove something at the far. End. The fix was a combination of a bit of scraping and quite a lot of filing with a fine diamond abrasives. Given I got myself in the mess in the first place it's nothing to boast about, but I do get your point.

Iain

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Posted by Steve Ambler 1 on 25/05/2017 14:49:23:

Thanks for all your replys seems that I have looked at all the same sites

Arc Eurotrade is a reasonable price but it works out cheaper from the states as a package with 5 holders even with the import tax keeping a lookout at the moment

Did you also add VAT as well as import duty? Plus there will be the post office handling fee of about £8 for collecting it

[Steve Ambler 1Participant @steveambler1]

Thanks for all your replys seems that I have looked at all the same sites

Arc Eurotrade is a reasonable price but it works out cheaper from the states as a package with 5 holders even with the import tax keeping a lookout at the moment

[Andrew TinsleyParticipant @andrewtinsley63637]

I didn't realise that Arc Eurotrade sold the wedge type at such good prices. Otherwise I may well have purchased them!

I did buy via (Ebay) a couple of sets from the original manufacturer, that supplied Myford. These are excellent, as one would expect. I cannot see any reason at all to favour one system over the other. What I can say is that I have seen some poorly executed piston types. It all really comes down to the quality of the item, be it wedge or piston activated.

Andrew.

[richardandtracyParticipant @richardandtracy]

The trouble with the cheap ones on the bay is that the post is aluminium. In time you'll get problems with wear. The steel ones don't seem to be much cheaper than Arceurotrade & as they come from the US, it's highly likely you'll get stung for import duty, making it more expensive.

I've never had anything get through from the US without having to pay duty, and have never had to pay it from China. Just remind me, which is our NATO ally?

Regards,

Richard.

[jimmy bParticipant @jimmyb]

Arceurotrade **LINK**

I've got them on both my lathes (model 000 and model 222).

So much better than the piston type!

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

By the way if you haven't had the chance to look at them in the flesh there are some videos on youtube somewhere by a east European agent for warco for a range of their products.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Arc should have the arbor and they also do the wedges for removing chucks

Edited By JasonB on 18/05/2017 19:53:07

[matt merchantParticipant @mattmerchant42413]

think this should be here rather than the do today thread.

whoop took delivery today of a lovely little sieg sc2 lathe from Ketan and the team at arceurotrade really good service from them, 3 days from ordering to the well packed sturdy wooden crate being passed to my mucky dabs.

ive not done much apart from unpack at the moment, tomorrows job after work will be cleaning off the packing grease and lubing her up ​ then onto mounting upon the made from salvaged wood bench

Matt

[MWParticipant @mw27036]

Hi Andrew,

I believe the spray on stuff you're referring to is what's known as layout ink, it also comes in ink bottles, sometimes with a brush and it's precisely like you said, just for scribing lines.

The stuff you want is stuarts micrometer marking paste, which is used to find contact points and high spots on surfaces for scraping.

There's a link here to ARC, I bought a tin of it once but it seems they now sell in this tube instead. 

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Protection-Grease-Adhesives/Engineers-Blue

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 15/05/2017 17:29:43

[BizibilderParticipant @bizibilder]

It uses 4" files (with the tang cut off) – I can get these from Arc Euro in most shapes that I need. I'm using 2nd cut files that do seem to work – if a little slowly for roughing out. However if you cut out close to the line in the first place they are quick enough. The one shown in the machine is a 4" square file with its missing tang uppermost – ie it cuts on the downstroke. (It may not look it in the photos but the file is dead square to the table!)

Edited By Bizibilder on 14/05/2017 14:52:27

Edited By Bizibilder on 14/05/2017 14:52:52

[ChrisBParticipant @chrisb35596]

This is what it looks like. So I guess it should be relatively easy to fit the tool-post. Probably will go for this **LINK**

[ChrisBParticipant @chrisb35596]

Prior to ordering one I would like to know your views on which QCTP is more suitable for the WM280. I did a fair amount of research on the forum and from what I gathered the most common types are the Dixon piston type and the wedge type (ARC)

Last time I checked the Warco webshop they have a Dixon style which would fit the WM280, but it's permanently out of stock. ARCeuro have wedge types 000 and 100 (not sure which size would fit my lathe) These seem to fit my lathe if I remove the tool post stud and replace it with the one which comes with the qctp

What are your views and opinions?

[RobboParticipant @robbo]

That looks pretty good, except for the dust which I expect you are used to dealing with.  Is there any tooling included?

Your research into Alba has probably already revealed that Alba were taken over by Elliott, and the Alba shapers were renamed and sold as Elliotts. I think the Alba 2S became Elliott 14S. But just go by the stroke length.

As a starter into shapers, theres an article from Popular Mechanics her: http://www.eurospares.com/graphics/Tools/shapers/PMKnowYourShaper.pdf

 

 

Edited By Robbo on 10/05/2017 09:24:54

[Steve CrowParticipant @stevecrow46066]

Searching ebay for elusive size collets I noticed that Chinese manufactors are selling new ones, in a vast range of sizes, for around a tenner each.

My question is, has anyone tried these? I don't want to write them off just because they are not of European origin.

[CirclipParticipant @circlip]

Sadly a sign of the times. Brand new central heating boiler refused to fire up, luckily after contacting manufacturers help line, after various checks, internal wiring incorrect on assembly at factory. Multi-point water heater needed diaphragm changing cos water not getting hot enough, Diaphragm has moulded in "O-ring" type edge. Although heater had been working OK for about four years, original factory assembler couldn't be bothered to make sure it was "In the groove".

ChrisB, Shoulda gone to Arc euro.

Regards Ian.