Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Clive Brown 1 on 20/06/2017 15:53:58:

I'm interested in this thread. I recently purchased an Arceurotrade indexable boring bar, the low-cost Chinese type with a standard tip. This was to supplement the collection of mainly HSS boring tools used on my Boxford ME10. The attraction was the compact dimensions of the "sharp end" and the avoidance of what can be extensive grinding of HSS to make a shaped tool.

I can only say that I'm badly disillusioned. The surface finish is terrible in mild steel, En3, a bit better, but still poor in some tougher stuff, possibly EN8. I've tried ramping up the speed, as seems to be advised in places, but with little improvement. I now see this tool as little better than useless except for the most crude roughing cuts.

I've got a carbide-tipped boring bar (not ARC), it only works if you mount it so the centre of the bar is at centre height, rotate it to drop the tip to centre height. If you mount it low and flat so the tip is at centre height, it rubs and does not cut freely, even in a surprisingly large hole.

Neil

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by choochoo_baloo on 20/06/2017 14:41:56:

I now wish to progress onto boring and want to buy an indexable boring tool. Whilst looking through arceurotrade, I realise that I can either go fro the cheapaer Chinese ~£17, or the quality Japanese tools ~£90.

I am a very firm believer in buying the most expensive tools one can afford, but have read on here and elsewhere that others achieve excellent results with the former (non-Japanese).

So my question is: for a commited newcomer looking to built up a quality tool kit over time, are the unbranded/cheaper indexable boring tools and inserts actually more than good enough (I am using a Myford ML7)?

Any advice gratefully received.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 20/06/2017 14:42:17

If you are looking at general hobby work, the Chinese one should do you fine. I am also happy with the Chinese inserts which we sell for it as well as other applications by the bucket load, and we purchase these from a known factory, for its consistency. If you feel doubt, then consider the Sumitomo inserts, as necessary.

The Sumitomo holders are designed for production work. They are more rigid, and can deal with deeper holes without flexing, which is more common 'issue' with the cheaper holders.

Ketan at ARC.

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Clive Brown 1 on 20/06/2017 15:53:58:

I'm interested in this thread. I recently purchased an Arceurotrade indexable boring bar, the low-cost Chinese type with a standard tip. This was to supplement the collection of mainly HSS boring tools used on my Boxford ME10. The attraction was the compact dimensions of the "sharp end" and the avoidance of what can be extensive grinding of HSS to make a shaped tool.

I can only say that I'm badly disillusioned. The surface finish is terrible in mild steel, En3, a bit better, but still poor in some tougher stuff, possibly EN8. I've tried ramping up the speed, as seems to be advised in places, but with little improvement. I now see this tool as little better than useless except for the most crude roughing cuts.

OK, I must be doing it wrong, would an expensive tip transform things? The bar itself seems reasonably well made and it's held rigidly. I should say that I sometimes use carbide tipped tools for external turning with no real problems.

Any advice appreciated!

Clive

Hi Clive,

Can't comment on your predicament, as there are too many variables.. what i can say is that we are happily selling both the Chinese and Sumitomo types in reasonable volume without difficulty.

Ketan at ARC.

[Clive Brown 1Participant @clivebrown1]

I'm interested in this thread. I recently purchased an Arceurotrade indexable boring bar, the low-cost Chinese type with a standard tip. This was to supplement the collection of mainly HSS boring tools used on my Boxford ME10. The attraction was the compact dimensions of the "sharp end" and the avoidance of what can be extensive grinding of HSS to make a shaped tool.

I can only say that I'm badly disillusioned. The surface finish is terrible in mild steel, En3, a bit better, but still poor in some tougher stuff, possibly EN8. I've tried ramping up the speed, as seems to be advised in places, but with little improvement. I now see this tool as little better than useless except for the most crude roughing cuts.

OK, I must be doing it wrong, would an expensive tip transform things? The bar itself seems reasonably well made and it's held rigidly. I should say that I sometimes use carbide tipped tools for external turning with no real problems.

Any advice appreciated!

Clive

[choochoo_balooParticipant @choochoo_baloo]

I now wish to progress onto boring and want to buy an indexable boring tool. Whilst looking through arceurotrade, I realise that I can either go fro the cheapaer Chinese ~£17, or the quality Japanese tools ~£90.

I am a very firm believer in buying the most expensive tools one can afford, but have read on here and elsewhere that others achieve excellent results with the former (non-Japanese).

So my question is: for a commited newcomer looking to built up a quality tool kit over time, are the unbranded/cheaper indexable boring tools and inserts actually more than good enough (I am using a Myford ML7)?

Any advice gratefully received.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 20/06/2017 14:42:17

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

ARC EURO sell a clamp type knurling tool, and Hemingway also sell a kit, if you want to make your own.

Other suppliers, such as Chester, Warco, or RDG , no doubt, have an offering that may be what you need.

If you have drawings, you can always, within reason, scale things up or down, to suit your needs. Personally i would opt for as large a range as is practicable, and standardise on knurling rolls that are available. (Might be worth buying pairs of wheels for Coarse, Medium and Fine, if the budget will run to it.)

Howard

[Ex contributorParticipant @mgnbuk]

**LINK**

Is it this one ?

This came from the link on this page : **LINK**

HTH

Nigel B

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Brian,

One place would be ARCeurotrade, these are diamond knurling wheels.

Thor

Edited By JasonB on 21/06/2017 19:57:23

[Gary WoodingParticipant @garywooding25363]

Posted by 12 Bore on 15/06/2017 12:02:29:

Your Chester Micro Mill appears to be similar to the Arceurotrade Micro Mill, probably same manufacturer, if you go on the Arc website, look under milling machines and at the Micro Mill, there is an exploded view available which should show all you need.

Dave

It certainly looks like the same mill, but I couldn't find the exploded view you mentioned.

[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

Will end up fiddling with an inverter and the pulley ratios till I get to 1000RPM then I think.

With the labeling, still not sure how strongly I want to try and keep the lathe looking of its time. If I try to restore then botch the current label I might take that as a sign from above to modernise and use a printer.

Will have to look into making some drip feed oilers to replace the tiny oil cups currently in place.

More questions

1. What would a reasonable maximum size be for chucks? With the 9×24" capacity and 1.5" spindle nose. A manual I got for a Mk2 lathe mentioned a backplate for 6" scroll chucks and 8" 4 jaw chucks. However the Mk2 had a 1.75" nose and ran in taper roller bearings.

I did find it curious that the manual lists separately a 4.5" back plate for a Taylor chuck. I guess they are heavier than the chucks of other makers?

Was thinking about purchasing this chuck

2. There is only 1/2" between the top slide and center height. 1/8" less than a myford. Using arceuros 000 tool post would give me 8.25mm of tool space. Was wondering at what point the thickness of the tool stops being the weakest link of the lathe. 8mm seems pretty thin being smaller than the tooling I use on my 7×12 mini lathe. I am debating taking off the entire top slide and bolting one big tool post onto the cross slide. I have some 25×25 tooling that has been sitting around and I have been debating slitting it into smaller tooling since forever but this might save me that job.

3. Anyone know some plans for a home made milling attachment? I have a vague plan of using round rod to make the slides like a Unimat but would be reassuring to follow a tried and tested plan.

[SamsarandaParticipant @samsaranda]

Your Chester Micro Mill appears to be similar to the Arceurotrade Micro Mill, probably same manufacturer, if you go on the Arc website, look under milling machines and at the Micro Mill, there is an exploded view available which should show all you need.

Dave

[geoff walker 1Participant @geoffwalker1]

Yes, thanks Dave, looks interesting.

I just had a look at the arc euro drawing and the idea could be adapted for my Myford M type

Have to say the small ball bearing seems very narrow at 1/8" wide.

Would it be better to have a longer needle type bearing 5/16" long and 1/4" i/d to give a longer bearing surface for the feed screw?

I've seen one at Simply Bearings but it has an o/d of 7/16" which will fit my M type but may be a little to big for the ML7 end plate which I notice on the arc euro drawing is enlarged to 3/8".

thanks again geoff

[Dave Jones 1Participant @davejones1]

Its not often that (infact never!) that I comment on a machine upgrade. However I have just complete the cross slide bearing upgrade from arc euro trade, and the difference is amazing! I have no link the company (and they actually list the three bearing dimensions on their website if you wanted to purchase from somewhere else however at just over a tenner including postage it hardly seems worth it hunting the bearings down).

All that is required is a quick rebore of the cross slide end plate and a mill across the ends and its good to go. I was not expecting much of a difference however am I contemplating upgrading the ML7 to CNC and have been looking through the description given on the Tony Jefree's website http://www.jefree.co.uk and it is one of the steps to cut down on the cross slide friction. Even in 'manual mode' it has made a huge difference to the feel of the slide and I would recommend it to all ML7 owners.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Posted by Ketan Swali on 13/06/2017 13:40:38:

Posted by JasonB on 13/06/2017 13:23:34:

Also when the banner add space along the top of the page is not being used (seems most of the time now Myhobbystore is no more) could the blank space be done away with which would move things up the screen

I believe that the blank space at the top came about due to some error which took place at the end of April. It is space which MTM has allocated for advertising, but it doesn't work.

Ketan at ARC.

Ketan, I don't think it is an error, just a space waiting for an advert banner. If you visit the other MTM sites you will see for example that Mil Mod had a banner for Euro-militair and one of the others for those models that come in 99 installments with a magazine so obviously working for them using the same software.

Edited By JasonB on 13/06/2017 15:41:14

[Bob StevensonParticipant @bobstevenson13909]

….Just a line to thank the responders very much!

I just looked at the other mini-lathe topic about fine feed and realised that the change wheel bore is supposed to be 12mm,..also backed up by Arceurotrade site…..my wheels are significantly under that at about 11.5mm and I will accurately measure later today…….

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Short story: Its a Chinese long term plan to access mineral deposits.

Long story:

The Chinese already have experience of this when they built the Tazara railway between Zambia and Dar-es-Salaam (place of my birth), in Tanzania. Regardless of what we read in the West, that railway still runs regularly when the Chinese want to move their raw metals/minerals cargo from Zambia to Dar-es-Salaam port.

On Ady1's link, you will see that the plan (see the map too) is to connect the railway all the way to Kisangani in D.R.Congo (Zaire). The only real employer in Kisangani was SOTEXKI – textile printing operation, run mainly by a French Belgiuan Italian consortium. The only other thing there is an airport with a small township. The lands around there are seriously rich in certain mineral deposits… one of which is Coltan. Lets just say that there are serious Western International institutions who have direct and indirect interest in this region, involved in securing their interests by what ever means necessary. Now the Chinese want a piece or whole of this action.

For about a decade in the 1990s I was involved in supplying raw material – colour, fabric, machinery parts, as well as a technical engineer to SOTEXKI. The logistics of getting goods to the factory involved land road, from Matadi (Western Port of Zaire) to Kinshasa, and river barges from Kinshasa – loading at the Unilever factory, to Kisangani, up the river Congo – all protected with armed guards. Things good tricky in the rainy season.

Transporting from the East presented a different challenge. Preferred route By road from Dar-es-Salaam to Goma (Rwanda), cross and then by road to Kisangani. Again, very dangerous journey, complete with armed guards on board, and extremely expensive. Convoy of five to six 40'ft Containers. When it rained, you just couldn't move the goods by road. So load the the containers back on a vessel and off-load at Mombassa. Then move the goods by road from Mombassa to Goma (Rwanda), via Kampala. Again, complete with armed guards – very expensive. Once at Goma, cross into Congo, and move cargo by road to Kisangani. Alternatively, if urgent, bring cargo into Entebbe, and fly it into Kisangani.

Then came the Rwandan genocide, sleepless nights over a month wondering where the goods were in transit from Mombassa. Last radio call came in when the convoy just passed through Kampala. Belgian insurers were informed (yes you can get high risk insurance as a price). The goods got to the factory in the end – which is a different and difficult story, but the process troubled me. Soon there after flowed in the international interests which financed various interventions over the border using Ugandan army, etc., laying new roads through the jungle from Kisangani, into Uganda, aiding development of mining legal?, and moving coltan – for example by road to Mombassa to places in Europe for refinement and re-export to people involved in manufacture of components in the mobile phone industry… 'All clean business!'.

As Clive says, with it, AIDS came into Kisangani, along with various armies and war lords and their interests which fled from Rwanda. The printing factory lost a lot of workers to AIDS, or shot dead, or to the mines where money and work was easy. The Ugandan army robbed the Lebanese diamond dealers at gun point, and many bad things took over.

The factory still survives, even though I stopped working with them after the situation in the region got trickier.

The governments in the region don't give a dam about the people. It is all about the money which can be realised quickly, provided all the warring fractions can be 'helped to unite' by the Chinese by whatever means necessary.

Ketan at ARC.

[Bill PudneyParticipant @billpudney37759]

Some weeks ago I bought a QCTP from Arc Euro, for my Sieg C3. Because it seemed like a good idea at the time, I decided that more toolholders were in order. So I found some bits of S12L14 steel (similar to EN1A I think) and started hacking it into toolholder sized bits. This process resulted in ten blanks. The next operation has been cutting the dovetails, so far seven (dovetails) have been completed. This morning the seventh dovetail happened. It's fairly tedious work, but ultimately quite satisfying to end up with a nice well fitting dovetail!!

cheers

Bill

[JonParticipant @jon]

Leading on a bit broke me 5" vice this afternoon, same type as the OP's first link. Bought to replace the second link 4" which also broke.

Backs broke out from the peg downwards about 30 degrees and need to replace pronto, I am at a stop. **LINK**

Just noticed similar style in ductile SG but the breakout area is still a weak point. More for Ketan are these any stronger and better made than the others?
6" may be too big, current broken one is around 380mm length and on furthest out T slot. Fixed jaw side where broke is 60mm from face of jaw.

[Angus Anderson 1Participant @angusanderson1]

I ordered a new motor from Arc Euro Trade and it arrived yesterday, did a quick meggar test of the three wire, all okay as expected. The shaft turns with a lot less force than my knackered motor, even though nothing touches it!

As I had already inspected the drive board, I fitted the new motor and powered up, the lights stayed on and the motor span, yippee

All I had to do now was to realign the base with the holes in the concrete floor, bolt it down so the bed is level and carry on tapping the M5 holes on the job that is sat in the dividing head.

When the Seig is running, it is a lot quieter now than it was with the old motor

Does anyone know if I can get the old motor rewound as it would be nice to have a spare as new ones are £340

Thanks everyone for your responses

All the best

Angus

[Colin LLoydParticipant @colinlloyd53450]

Final Update: Dave at Beeline Engineering Products on looking at the sample belt I sent him agrees that it measures 4.2mm pitch and had never seen one before – best he could do was a 4.7mm pitch belt.

Bizibilder & John Rudd: The (hopeful) purchased belt from Arceurotrade arrived this morning, looks the same as current belt, and fits perfectly (code C1-131, Timing Belt 1.5*83*10). But on measuring the pitch it is 4.2mm – so now confused as to actual pitch dimensions and standard designations.

In any case couldn't wait – a new Amadeal CJ18A lathe is arriving here tomorrow. Not quite what you big boys would use but will be perfectly adequate for my hobby uses. Avoided the wife's wrath by buying her a new Oak table and 6 chairs.

Thanks again for your help.

Colin

[Russ BParticipant @russb]

I'd do it all the same again, but use clean oil rather than cold water to quench, and you should find you can hone the edge

I'm not sure about this ALDI brand sharpener, I suspect this may be the real trouble here, the diamond will only sharpen while it's adhered to the block, and I would guess it could rub off fairly easily. I have couple of diamond files/flats from Arc Euro Trade and they're great, the 6" flat file #200 very quickly shapes or takes back any edge, and then straight to the #1200 6×2 hone which puts a mirror finish on in just a pass or 2.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by choochoo_baloo on 02/06/2017 16:23:35:

Related to my OP, I actually want to remove the original arbor on my Jacobs No 34 chuck. I decided it's needless to buy a new chuck when this British Jacobs is likely much better.

As a learning exercise more than anything, I wish to replace the arbor with a new tang style one from Arc Euro.

I have attached a couple of photos; can someone please direct me to, or upload a Jacobs Taper chart, since after having a quick look on Jacob's website doesn't help me identify what mine will be; to then buy with MT 2 other end from Arc.

.

John … for info ^^^

[you do make a good point though]

MichaelG.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

I'd never heard of DIN bayonet fittings before and did a search. Very nice engineering but chucks to fit that standard seem to be high-end ; the first I found was £530.64 plus VAT, the second €1915! I like the idea of owning a chuck costing more than the lathe though.

[David CambridgeParticipant @davidcambridge45658]

For a while I’ve been buying my drill bits from Warco, and I found them to produce a hole size that was pretty much spot on. My definition of being spot on being a nice sliding fit with ground silver steel of the same diameter. Drill bits I’ve bought from RDG tools, Amadeal, and Arc Euro trade were all just as good.

I then switched to one of the bigger ebay suppliers and bought sets of ‘precision ground TIN’ and results are all over the place. Price wise, and in packs of 10 they were maybe 2/3 the price of the suppliers mentioned above. Over a cross section of sizes, A 4mm ebay drill is producing a hole size of 4.32mm, a 6 mm drill 5.95mm, and 8mm drills were banana shaped.

Granted I can use a reamer for accuracy, but I’m curious to know if the usual suspects that we buy our stuff from are all particularly good, or is my ebay supplier particularly bad. Maybe it’s just a case of you get what you pay for.

I’m also curios to know what people deem acceptable hole size accuracy ?

The results are the same for drilling in either the mill or the lathe, with different chucks used for both, across a good sample of the packs of 10 drill bits, and results measured in aluminum, brass, and steel. Returning to the above ‘engineering’ suppliers with my old drill bits produces the same excellent results, so nothing has gone wrong in my machines.

David

[Colin LLoydParticipant @colinlloyd53450]

2nd Update: Bizibilder – I had a copy of the manual and should have checked. Anyway – yes it seems that the specification is the same for both the Chester and the C1 – so I have ordered a belt from Arceurotrade – now wait to see if it fits – I'll let you know the outcome – damn – how do I justify a new lathe if it fits?