Search Results for 'zan'

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Hi phil

Thanks , goods received. Looks good

Now I need to get the rest of the stuff. Trying to work out what to do with the buttons in the final case without being able to 3D print it. Clough42 has so much kit and availability of skill and knowledge  indicated from  viewing his videos .

I have been thinking about turning top hat bushes from plastic to fit from inside then they won’t pop out, then using some form of foam or soft rubber to provide the spring back, but all that is a long way off!  My case will be bigger to house the digital inputs to the vdf 

Im just wondering what others are planning to do , or have done.

How are people mounting the encoder and stepper on a myford?

zan

Edited By Zan on 18/11/2019 19:30:55

[ZanParticipant @zan]

The late great John Stevenson showed us how to straighten a bent lead screw with a lever in his badgers workshop posts. So correcting any bend shouldn’t be too difficult, but it all depends on the exact material spec as Andrew says, and also the function of the part.

Todays update from Bodgers Lodge

Search for this thread, Long, but interesting reading

Edited By Zan on 12/11/2019 13:41:56

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Re Bridgeport versatility and moving it

mine with. 42” table came in on a pallet truck through a standard door . The head was upside down to get it low enough to get under the door. The table was then fitted after positioning.

when I extended the workshop, I had to move it 25 ‘ and rotate it 180 degrees. This was easily accomplished in a couple of hours on my own by sliding on steel strips and round bars using a standard crow bar to lever it a n inch or so at a time, it wasn’t difficult, just needed a lot of care to keep fingers out of the way.

i have only used the head twist tor nod once in 15 years but the extending head enables very tall pieces to be drilled( boiler backhead) when it’s sat on the top of the knee to get the head room and in addition a very large job which was hung over the front. The auto down feed is not oft used, but combined with the boring head it’s indispensable., e.g boring/ fly cutting the base of a 7/14” chimney base makes this a very straightforward task.

The rotating column is brilliant , I keep a heavy vice well on the left of the table, an accurate swivel vice for most use in the centre, leaving a couple of feet on the right for 8” rotary table or dividing head. I leave two ring spanner’s almost permanently mounted so a 1/4 turn will release it to swivel the rotated  to the extremes .  The right one is also used for the draw bar so it is also in a handy storage position.

I also haven't used the quill master Don’t worry about metric or imperial machine. Mine is an imperial machine, but it has a metric table screw, I didn’t find this out for 10 years as I always use the dro converting to single phase was not difficult but needed a lot of head scratching and a couple of new contactors at 240 v and removal of a lot of the overload fuses.

my advice is simple. Get the biggest xxxxxxxx you can fit in your shop!

Edited By Zan on 12/11/2019 13:32:18

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Yes that’s a great idea, I’ll take a set

zan

[peak4Participant @peak4]

The Colchester Student is apparently 625Kg with tailstock etc.

Since it's on a good solid pallet, it might save the need for my earlier suggestion of making wheels.
I think, if funds allow, a hired or borrowed pallet truck would be favourite, I'd suggest a wide type with a couple of ratchet straps to hold the lathe down. Plywood similar sheets would clearly be needed to span the gravel.
If you're careful and don't damage them, they might cut up for shelving, cabinets, worktops etc.

For my own worktops I actually used 47mm chipboard, rescued from a mezzanine floor. I then faced it with laminated flooring, to leave a nice clean surface; it's common to pick up just a couple of packs as end-of-line for very little money. Two or three layers of the plywood would re-use in a similar manner for a very sturdy bench, so the money/materials are not wasted; it wouldn't even matter much if a bit damaged.

The wider pallet trucks would be more stable for the trip to the workshop, and may well allow enough height to raise it up most of the way to the step.

What's at the other end of the workshop; anything to anchor a winch to? Maybe even add a Rawl anchor to the floor. Judicially placed, it may even have other uses. Depending on the final resting place for the lathe, might it even double up as one of the ground anchors for finally bolting it down?

Bill

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

About 3 years ago the museum had a visit from two young ladies from health and safety, who looked at the machinery and really didn't know much about any of it. They were probably more at home in shops and restaurants. I thought that something ought to be done about the lathe, which had next to nothing in the form of safety devices. I bought a cheap stop button which got glued over the ancient one, at least it is much bigger. I was talking about making a chuck guard, when Chris said that he had seen one up on the mezzanine amongst the bits and pieces of helicopter. It was exactly the right size and is now on the lathe with an industrial microswitch which I had saved from being dumped as surplus from my old firm. Having the microswitch saves me from bending down to stop the lathe, which is welcome. They never came back, all the radioactive things that this sort of museum has must have put them off.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Zan

As ever when scaling down industrial size concept to smaller machinery a certain amount of low cunning and, probably, verbal encouragement will be needed to get it working well. My machines are industrial size (Smart & Brown 1025, 10" swing and Pratt & Whitney Model B 12 x 30 true swing 13 3/4" ) so I'm unlikely to need the technique personally.

However, remember that its a technique for finishing cuts, not roughing cuts, so forces will be relatively low. With appropriate care it should be possible to get a nice finish running far enough down the bore to produce a self sized support immediately behind the cutting tool. I guess 3/8" to 1/2", 8 to 12 mm, or so should suffice. If you are using a round boring bar with inserted cutter an L shaped, plate, steady, Smart & Brown style as mentioned in my first post could be used for extra support if the material proves stubborn. Once you have a start all should proceed to plan. Hopefully your plan, not the shop Gremlins plan.

As I see it this is more a get out of jail technique rather than the normal way of doing things. I recall doing a boring job many years ago on one of my SouthBend 9" lathes whose surface stubbornly came out a series of very shallow grooves perhaps a couple of thou deep at most rather than smooth. Many spring cuts later it was acceptable. Reason for the problem was that the variation in cutting force between hollow and peak of the grooves sprung the boring bar just enough that it pretty much followed the grooves rather than cut the peaks away. A bigger bar would have solved the problem but my next size up boring bar was fraction too big so I had to make do with one that as really too small. A D bit would have worked if I'd had the right size material to make one. As would a reamer but buying one for a one time job made no sense.

Just another concept for your toolbox to be hauled out when you've not got the paper tool to do it "just like that".

Clive

Edited By Clive Foster on 25/10/2019 21:23:04

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Interesting video!, but in our sizes I struggle to see how this would work

At the start of the cut, the boring bar was held in an exact position by the bushing steady, meaning that the bar could not spring during this initial cut before the wood block has been shaped by the sharp edge of the tube thus forming the moving internal steady.

I think that without this bushing steady the wood will not be cut to the exact size required and the boring tool would be forced upwards. It’s one of those situations where the industrial process where multiple parts are being produced makes the investment in tooling viable as opposed to our normal one off component machining tasks. With a bushing steady fitted, it would probably work, provided the wood support to the bar did not crumble. I would also think that there would be few situations where such a long component (comparatively for our much smaller jobs and machines) would need boring

 

edit…….  the bushing steady in our size would probably need line boating to the exact diameter of the Boeing bar, which must also be absolutely perfectly aligned with the lathe axis. The great Martin Cleeve (?) got a lot of use out of his, but he was earning his living from his vastly modifier ML7

Edited By Zan on 24/10/2019 13:50:51

[Phil GrantParticipant @philgrant54580]

Posted by Zan on 22/10/2019 19:24:27:

Yes please! Count me in!

Where exactly does this interface sit in the project? Is it in place of the breadboard cough uses?

Yes, If you look at his youtube videos (Clough42 video playlist)  he designed an interface PCB that converts all the signals bidirectionally from 5V to 3.3V so the Ti Launchpad can talk to the Stepper Driver and the display he uses.

All I've done is re-create the interface PCB using through hole components instead of SMD.

He will be selling his boards pre assembled and tested, I didn't fancy SMD assembly and reflow soldering and I'm too impatient to wait so I did my own design using through hole components, not as nice looking as his but it will be in a box!

Phil

Edited By Phil Grant on 22/10/2019 19:35:03

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Yes please! Count me in!

Where exactly does this interface sit in the project? Is it in place of the breadboard clough  uses?

 

edit for bad  autocorrect!

Edited By Zan on 22/10/2019 19:25:31

[ZanParticipant @zan]

 

That’s the same chuck fitting as on a Colchester student

homeandworkshop.co.uk have nice looking 10” diameter one £175 ,oops mistake, in edit, that one is a L0 not L00 

stopping in emergency is easy with the clutch on these machines. Stopping with the vdf would be slow due to the ramp down timing, depending on how it is set.

Do ensure there are no switches between the vdf and the motor or you will blow it

Edited By Zan on 21/10/2019 17:20:02

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

The digital quill depth reader has been finished, I had to cut about 1/2" off one end and it was more of a challenge than I thought it would be. It wore out two new Eclipse junior hacksaw blades, and then I thought it would be a good idea to drill a hole in the bottom end. I used a new solid carbide 7.3mm YG Dream for hardsteel, it did the job, but any hss or even cobalt would have failed completely. The aluminium block in the picture looks a lot different now. The stroke of the quill is exactly 2.5". Mike made a nice cap for the projecting end of the drawbar out of two pieces of aluminium fitted together as we couldn't find anything to make it out of one piece.

The motor will have to come off and be turned round, as the wiring box comes very close to the bracing for the mezzanine, especially if the head is tilted.

Edited By old mart on 12/09/2019 20:35:02

Edited By old mart on 12/09/2019 20:43:38

[HOWARDTParticipant @howardt]

Could be CPVC, good for 90 C. See here **LINK**

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

It would not help a visitor in a different country, perhaps someone on holiday. If you were French, you can't pronounce "th" or 'w' easily, and even 'g' and 'j' get swapped about. For instance the bird name jay is pronounced "gee" (with a soft 'g&#39, zinc is pronounced 'zang'. I would not like to give my position somewhere in China, Russia or the like using that countries language.

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Posted by Zan on 03/08/2019 18:37:14:

The point here is that the bed is stuffed so how could it be a ref. flat

The point being it is a nice bit of cast iron which when cut down to say 2ft long could be reground and scraped with a lot less trouble than a proper bed regrind.

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

I haven't got the hang of posting text and photos together. You can see how the mill is positioned to just miss the mezzanine cross bracing, while being 4" higher at the same time. The quill return spring will be sorted out when the head is re assembled, it cannot be too difficult. The outer end of the spring is secured by a 6BA screw. The spindle has the 3/4" od 20 tooth spline for the Z axis. The needle rollers for the pulley bearing are an unexpected bonus, having no discernible play at all.

[Andy CarruthersParticipant @andycarruthers33275]

Mike – are you using TC tipped or HSS tool? Please attach a photo

What speed are you running the lathe at when approaching 12mm diameter?

What depth of cut are you attempting?

@Zan – beat me to it!

Edited By Andy Carruthers on 01/08/2019 16:57:24

[ZanParticipant @zan]

0.5 mm on dia 12 is a massive amount too high, but less significant at dia. 22 that’s the problem. And why the chips flew off correctly at the start of machining.

What type of tool is it carbide, interchangeable it Hs?

What shape is the tool?

what is the tip radius? Is it flat topped?

More information required for a proper answer. Perhaps if the shank of the tool is soft (test with the corner of a file, it should not slide over the tool) so it can be machined down so your tool post can use it otherwise it’s probably junk to you

Edited By Zan on 01/08/2019 16:53:30

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Thanks, Zan

I do have another 'take' on the pin or no pin dilemma, but I will save it for later … there are domestic chores to be done.

MichaelG.

[ZanParticipant @zan]

I use neat cif to clean the bench tops and epoxy coated floor with a damp cloth. The muck grease and pile just vanish

Edited By Zan on 28/07/2019 12:32:23

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Zan on 28/07/2019 12:03:26:

.

… It all depends on providing an effective spindle lock. …

.

I am genuinely confused, Zan

Can you please explain how locking the spindle can affect the ability to tighten a collet into its taper socket in the spindle

Thanks

MichaelG.

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

The mill is going on a 4" high wood stand with 1/8" aluminium corners to spread the load. This is the maximum we can raise the machine and still just miss the cross bracing for the mezzanine floor above. I'm a great believer in saving my back and the backs of the other oldies who will use it. Short people can make duckboards.

At risk of upsetting the purists, I have bought some cans of lawn green Plasticote paint. It is slightly brighter thanTS green, but still has a touch of the grey-green.

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Sounds like you need a refund……

the spindle speed is ok for aluminium 385 for steel with a 4 flute hiss cutter

Edited By Zan on 11/07/2019 15:08:41

[ZanParticipant @zan]

That’s why I wouldn’t consider any miller without R8 tooling. It allows minimal overhang the amount with a chuck and the tool can be surprisingly big. The quill is for drilling, but it makes it easy to set the z axis. Lift the table to 90, drop the quill with tool onto a 10 thou shim onto the work plane, lock quill, drop table. Remove shim. All now zeroed. Not so easy without the quill. It is in constant use. Makes jig boring possible as well. Tp

 

For machine with a knee or without a quill check there is no droop of the knee ( slack/weather in the dovetail?) this is a common problem with well used machines. I had a friend with an elderly Bridgeport, when the knee was locked the table lifted 15 thou but it was fully and correctly fully adjusted. Still did nice work, although the knee was for position only, the  quill was for adding cuts  . Only possible with a fine down feed , not rack and pinion but with possibly a worm n wheel.

 

i had a nice Rishton mill great,accurate but no fine feed on the quill only the capstan, I  sold it because of this..shame  now I would now have converted it to cnc…..

Edited By Zan on 07/07/2019 23:58:58

[ZanParticipant @zan]

I have the 8” with plates. Don’t use the plates often but easy to fit,  otherwise they normally they get  in the way but ok when used.  I would have liked it to work in vertical mode, but I have a good vertex dividing head so no problem here.   it’s certainly is a brilliant bit of kit. The thrust bearing under the table is huge. It’s smooth and accurate. Best bit of kit I have. Same t slots as a myford, but parallel 20 mm bore centre. So no mounting stubby morse tapers  but I now have a range of dedicated centres..

a fantastic bit of kit and well worth 5he money Was standard kit fir Bridgeport’s

Edited By Zan on 07/07/2019 23:39:31