Search Results for 'zan'

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi. a few days ago, I was looking for a suitable size piece of thickish cast iron, about 50mm diameter, so not having anything like it, I dug out some cast iron feet that were ripped off a 10″ David Brown reduction box, which happen the have a serious malfunction, which stopped the machine dead.

So I choose the one that had the least amount of work of cutting a piece out, with my bandsaw in its vertical position, and after a little bit more trimming today, I was able to skim the uneven side off.

I then scribed a circle on the other side, which was the side that was bolted down to the machine bed, which allowed me to set it up in my slim four jaw chuck, reasonable central, using my 6″ RT and a scriber mounted on a magnetic base. which will now allow me to skim the diameter true , to the biggest size I can get.

Regards Nick.

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, the general consensus to traditional model engineering seems to be model engineering meaning, but I think it can be almost anything you like that you engineer, or has been engineered, as long as it represents something of full size, and being smaller or bigger, and working or non working.

e.g. This was a kit that I built. made of wood, although I didn’t make the individual pieces.

Regards Nick.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Zan, just click the date and time in the right hand column where I have highlighted and that will take you to the last post

The old forum only took you to the last page not the last post.

 

[Zan]

On Zan Said:

It’s worth removing the apron .  I was amazed by all the rubbish in mine   A good clean out is a periodic essential maintenance task

I had to remove mine a few years ago and was also amazed at the amount of swarf etc that had accumulated  so I fashioned a cover from alloy sheet to close as much of the gap around the top of the LHS of the saddle over the lead screw. Works fairly well.  I think I saw on the Myford stand at the ME show they now produce a similar unit from pressed steel.

John

[Zan]

On Zan Said:

perhaps your angle is for true bevel gears?

The angles come from the two pitch cones. If the shafts are at 90 degrees, the angles must be complementary.

In your reply above, you have provided a third angle. So now we have 64.26, 63.24 and 63.26 to choose from.

Parallal depth is a method of manufacture (cutting) not anything related to calculating dimensions. We had some discussion of this here, and the original (100 year old) parallel depth references are provided:

Uniform Depth Bevel Gear,,,”MODULAR” not “DP”

It seems to me to be dangerous to use numbers from someone else’s work without knowing how they have been derived. Is there any online, downloadable version of the Lammas document so we can all see it and play bevel bingo?

See also:

https://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Bevel-Gear-Calculator.phtml

https://www.otvinta.com/bevel.html

[Zan]

On 31 October 2024 at 14:55 Zan Said:

Slope  angles are  ( pinion ) 26.34. And  (wheel) 64.26 degrees

 

Od= opd + (2 x cos 63.24 / dp) =  0.7 + (2x .896 / 32)  = 0.756

What is the total angle of the gears? 64.26 + 26.34 does not add up to 90.0 (that is not necessarily a mistake, but is unusual).

Where does 63.24 come from?

Are both of these simply typos. in your post or something more serious?

I was under the impression that the slope angles of a 1:2 pair at 90 degrees would be arctan(0.5)=26.56 and arctan(2.0)=63.43 but this may be irrelevant to your own construction.

[Mark EasingwoodParticipant @markeasingwood33578]

It shows up for me.

(Firefox/Win 10/logged in)

[Zan]

On Zan Said:

Stupid if you ask me. One drawer with 14 dti, Harding’s lathe with 14 drill chucks plus more dti. No room to work safely cos all machines cramped and covered with unused tools and kit.  Sell 80% and there’s still too much

 

perhaps they buy cos nothing can be easily found

barmy not impresses

Probably best you don’t visit my shed/workshop……………..

 

Jimb

[Zan]

On Zan Said:

Don’t like the sound of using the impact driver as such […]

Perhaps that’s because we are referring to different things

Mine is a Bosch GDR 10,8 VLI which is the compact ‘pistol’ device that takes 1/4” hex bits, and matches the drill/screwdriver.

MichaelG.

.

[VicParticipant @vic]

Would a double outlet be any good?

[Alan MellorParticipant @alanmellor68824]

Zanussi used a top hat type washer at the machine end sometime ago.

Alan

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Sorry, Ian … I don’t know the technical subtleties … I was just trying to re-state the comment made by Duncan’s repair-man

MichaelG.

.

Edit: __ This may possibly be relevant:

https://domesticspareparts.co.uk/products/zanussi-washing-machine-fill-hose-washer-with-filter

 

[Michael Gilligan]

 

On Michael Gilligan Said:

Or to put it another way … Because Zanussi chooses to use washers that differ from the de-facto ‘standard’

MichaelG.

Now I’m confused because what Duncan said was

Washing machine repair man came today, turns out the problem was a spilt washer on the feed hose. Zanussi type machines should have a different washer to everyone else’s.

I then asked Duncan why it was suggested that Zanussi machines should have a different washer.

All the washing machines and dishwashers (including some Zanussi) that I have come across, seem to use the same ‘standard’ feed hoses.

Ian P

 

 

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Or to put it another way … Because Zanussi chooses to use washers that differ from the de-facto ‘standard’

MichaelG.

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Why do you say the Zanussi should use non-standard sealing washers?

Ian P

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Now I do feel a twit. Washing machine repair man came today, turns out the problem was a spilt washer on the feed hose. Zanussi type machines should have a different washer to everyone else’s.

Moral of the story is, turn off the tap on the feed when not required. Will SWMBO remember? Doubt it. Workshop still in chaos waiting for it to dry out. This cold weather isn’t helping

[Zan]

On Zan Said:

Can’t see a video, searching for the title in the tube gives nothing. Can we have a link please I have one of these grinders

Go to YouTube and search for:

”Diamond grinding wheel dressing, D Bit Grinder tools and more.”

Hi all,

I recently aquired a lathe (MyFord ML10), and I’m reaching the point where I need to cut some thread.

I’m looking to cut a 1.25mm pitch thread. According to the chart on my lathe, this can be done with a 25, 50, 63, 40, 35& 70 gear. If my math is correct, this means a reduction of (25 / 50) * (63 / 40) * (35 / 70) = 0.39375. That is the lead screw does 0.39375 rotation for each turn of the driver.

I do not have a 63T gear, and I was looking into ordering one, I syumbled on this other chart on the Myford website : https://www.myford.co.uk/acatalog/D-10428METRICSCREW.html#SID=291

It indicates that the same 1.25 pitch can be achieved with a 25, 40, 50 & 60 gear (which I all have).

But doing the math : (25 / 40) * (40 / 50) * (50 / 60) = 0.41666666666, I get a reduction that is close, but not the same as the previous one.

Is that to be expected ? Are threading reduction giving an acceptable pitch with some tolerance? Or is there some difference between older and newer lathe in the leadscrew or spindle to driver reduction?

Or did I make a mistake in my math (can’t rule this out) ?

For context, I am trying to build a worm gear for a robotic project, I’m using an aluminium lazy suzan from amazon in which I’ve cut teeth using a M8 tap (that where I got the 1.25 originally). I was planing to drive the contraption with a M8 threaded rod, but every threaded rob I’m getting from the hardware shop is bent to some degree, making the system too hard to turn for the small Nema17 motors I’m using. So my next step is to cut my own threaded rod from a piece of brass.

[Zan]

On Zan Said:

…they cost a bundle…

You are missing the point in two ways.

First, download the instructions and MSDS for the commercial items. They do not cost money. They will tell you a lot about what is in the liquid and how to use it (duration of application, temperature, circulation and neutralisation requirements). That information will be of use to you when you come to use whatever witch’s brew you eventually choose.

Second, compare the cost of a known, commercial item that would not be sold if it did not work with the cost of replacing your boiler if you ruin it with a home made concoction pulled from the shelves of a DIY store (Kilrock 400ml £13.15 per litre B&Q; Heritage Steam £15.12 per litre assuming it is in the 10kg delivery band). As Duncan points out, both the copper-safe commercial products are hydrochloric acid-based (sulphamic acid is one of the alternative options). Specifically, they are not sulphuric, acetic or citric-based so that can guide your choice of an alternative product.

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

I’m not sure about 10 litre but I have been using one like this. Got it about 10 years ago and fits 4 litre tins.

If not available for 10 litre, decant into 4 litre tins.

 

In the Cat Like Tread song from Pirates of Penzance there is a line ‘here’s your crowbar, here’s your centre bit’. As it is about taking time off from piracy and doing a bit of burglary I don’t see what use what we would call a centre drill (bit) would be. Anyone got any ideas?

[Bruce VoelkerdingParticipant @brucevoelkerding91659]

while disposing of some industrial Machinery, I liberated a good “Aerospace” brand 0-2″ Dial Indicator. I knocked out some Brackets so it could be applied to the X-axis of the Mill-Drill. By using the sliding 1/4″ dia Rod it is possible to keep moving along a Part. I found an identical Indicator on Amazon for $35 (US), so I made some Brackets for the Y-axis. Unfortunately I could not get a “reversed” Indicator so the Y-axis counts down from 2.000″ when the Y 0.0 Datum is the fixed Jaw of the Vice. For a total Outlay of $35 and 2 days Time, it has already prooved its Worth.

The Shop is in the Basement of the House – I can work thru the Winter.

[Ramon WilsonParticipant @ramonwilson3]

Zan – personally I wouldn’t get too hung up on the internal angle as it’s just not that important. I did mine by step milling with a ball nose and filing the high spots off. Calls for nothing more complicated than a list of movements to follow – it’s actual surface finish and/or angle to the outside plays no useful part at all in the scheme of things (save one of personal satisfaction I guess)

There are quite a few comments in the original article that can bring a wry smile – and yes it was certainly a different world to today. Just this morning watched a clip of a tool change that was faster than the blink of an eye!

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Zan, it looks to me that a straight cutter would do it provided you did not have a horizontal split line too far up the side of the condenser. Or would a vertical split be possible as that would give a lot more access.

[Ramon WilsonParticipant @ramonwilson3]

Hello Zan,

Thanks for your email which alerted me to your post. You are right it has been sometime since I posted save for the initial issues on the change over.

Engine wise I have nothing to report but a lot has run under the bridge since last doing so. Hopefully I may be able to get back on to it in the Spring.

Re the condenser. I have to confess that initially I misread the drawing and ‘saw it in my head’ from the outset that the plates were recessed. The condenser body was milled to accept such before I realised that mistake. I did consider trying to reclaim it to as it should be but as with yourself, with no intention to run on steam, decided it wasn’t worth it.

As the design calls for, the tubes are soldered after the plates are screwed in place. One can only assume the plates would be sealed by some means too as once soldered they would not be removable. The cavities at each end in the covers which are only open to cooling water would then have a gasket to provide a seal. In that case once you commit to fixing the tubes by ‘soldering’ you may as well commit to doing like wise with the tube plates. Obviously far too much heat would be required for that so standard JB weld or similar springs to mind as a suitable means. A paper or liquid gasket should suffice for the covers which is what I shall do on mine. I ran Loctite Bearing Fit around the edges and around the tubes, not so much to seal but to secure.

Though I have not made any progress on my version the year has been full with other matters. I have now consolidated my 14 x 14 workshop into 14 x 7 and screened it off. ‘Compact and Bijou’ I’m quite happy with the smaller workshop outcome and it will serve more than enough for anything I am likely to do in future. The larger mill has been sold and currently I’m working on the area left to become a ‘clean’ one.

I have hit some health issues this year, nothing serious but enough to have a detrimental effect at times but I’m still maintaining my interest in building and flying control line models and of course plastic modelling. I have several matters to tie up in that direction but I do intend and really hope to be able get back on to the engine next year.

Wishing you, and all that look in, a Happy Xmas and here’s to a good and happy New Year