Search Results for 'zan'

[Zan]

On Zan Said:

Stupid if you ask me. One drawer with 14 dti, Harding’s lathe with 14 drill chucks plus more dti. No room to work safely cos all machines cramped and covered with unused tools and kit.  Sell 80% and there’s still too much

 

perhaps they buy cos nothing can be easily found

barmy not impresses

Probably best you don’t visit my shed/workshop……………..

 

Jimb

[Zan]

On Zan Said:

Don’t like the sound of using the impact driver as such […]

Perhaps that’s because we are referring to different things

Mine is a Bosch GDR 10,8 VLI which is the compact ‘pistol’ device that takes 1/4” hex bits, and matches the drill/screwdriver.

MichaelG.

.

[VicParticipant @vic]

Would a double outlet be any good?

[Alan MellorParticipant @alanmellor68824]

Zanussi used a top hat type washer at the machine end sometime ago.

Alan

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Sorry, Ian … I don’t know the technical subtleties … I was just trying to re-state the comment made by Duncan’s repair-man

MichaelG.

.

Edit: __ This may possibly be relevant:

https://domesticspareparts.co.uk/products/zanussi-washing-machine-fill-hose-washer-with-filter

 

[Michael Gilligan]

 

On Michael Gilligan Said:

Or to put it another way … Because Zanussi chooses to use washers that differ from the de-facto ‘standard’

MichaelG.

Now I’m confused because what Duncan said was

Washing machine repair man came today, turns out the problem was a spilt washer on the feed hose. Zanussi type machines should have a different washer to everyone else’s.

I then asked Duncan why it was suggested that Zanussi machines should have a different washer.

All the washing machines and dishwashers (including some Zanussi) that I have come across, seem to use the same ‘standard’ feed hoses.

Ian P

 

 

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Or to put it another way … Because Zanussi chooses to use washers that differ from the de-facto ‘standard’

MichaelG.

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Why do you say the Zanussi should use non-standard sealing washers?

Ian P

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Now I do feel a twit. Washing machine repair man came today, turns out the problem was a spilt washer on the feed hose. Zanussi type machines should have a different washer to everyone else’s.

Moral of the story is, turn off the tap on the feed when not required. Will SWMBO remember? Doubt it. Workshop still in chaos waiting for it to dry out. This cold weather isn’t helping

[Zan]

On Zan Said:

Can’t see a video, searching for the title in the tube gives nothing. Can we have a link please I have one of these grinders

Go to YouTube and search for:

”Diamond grinding wheel dressing, D Bit Grinder tools and more.”

Hi all,

I recently aquired a lathe (MyFord ML10), and I’m reaching the point where I need to cut some thread.

I’m looking to cut a 1.25mm pitch thread. According to the chart on my lathe, this can be done with a 25, 50, 63, 40, 35& 70 gear. If my math is correct, this means a reduction of (25 / 50) * (63 / 40) * (35 / 70) = 0.39375. That is the lead screw does 0.39375 rotation for each turn of the driver.

I do not have a 63T gear, and I was looking into ordering one, I syumbled on this other chart on the Myford website : https://www.myford.co.uk/acatalog/D-10428METRICSCREW.html#SID=291

It indicates that the same 1.25 pitch can be achieved with a 25, 40, 50 & 60 gear (which I all have).

But doing the math : (25 / 40) * (40 / 50) * (50 / 60) = 0.41666666666, I get a reduction that is close, but not the same as the previous one.

Is that to be expected ? Are threading reduction giving an acceptable pitch with some tolerance? Or is there some difference between older and newer lathe in the leadscrew or spindle to driver reduction?

Or did I make a mistake in my math (can’t rule this out) ?

For context, I am trying to build a worm gear for a robotic project, I’m using an aluminium lazy suzan from amazon in which I’ve cut teeth using a M8 tap (that where I got the 1.25 originally). I was planing to drive the contraption with a M8 threaded rod, but every threaded rob I’m getting from the hardware shop is bent to some degree, making the system too hard to turn for the small Nema17 motors I’m using. So my next step is to cut my own threaded rod from a piece of brass.

[Zan]

On Zan Said:

…they cost a bundle…

You are missing the point in two ways.

First, download the instructions and MSDS for the commercial items. They do not cost money. They will tell you a lot about what is in the liquid and how to use it (duration of application, temperature, circulation and neutralisation requirements). That information will be of use to you when you come to use whatever witch’s brew you eventually choose.

Second, compare the cost of a known, commercial item that would not be sold if it did not work with the cost of replacing your boiler if you ruin it with a home made concoction pulled from the shelves of a DIY store (Kilrock 400ml £13.15 per litre B&Q; Heritage Steam £15.12 per litre assuming it is in the 10kg delivery band). As Duncan points out, both the copper-safe commercial products are hydrochloric acid-based (sulphamic acid is one of the alternative options). Specifically, they are not sulphuric, acetic or citric-based so that can guide your choice of an alternative product.

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

I’m not sure about 10 litre but I have been using one like this. Got it about 10 years ago and fits 4 litre tins.

If not available for 10 litre, decant into 4 litre tins.

 

In the Cat Like Tread song from Pirates of Penzance there is a line ‘here’s your crowbar, here’s your centre bit’. As it is about taking time off from piracy and doing a bit of burglary I don’t see what use what we would call a centre drill (bit) would be. Anyone got any ideas?

[Bruce VoelkerdingParticipant @brucevoelkerding91659]

while disposing of some industrial Machinery, I liberated a good “Aerospace” brand 0-2″ Dial Indicator. I knocked out some Brackets so it could be applied to the X-axis of the Mill-Drill. By using the sliding 1/4″ dia Rod it is possible to keep moving along a Part. I found an identical Indicator on Amazon for $35 (US), so I made some Brackets for the Y-axis. Unfortunately I could not get a “reversed” Indicator so the Y-axis counts down from 2.000″ when the Y 0.0 Datum is the fixed Jaw of the Vice. For a total Outlay of $35 and 2 days Time, it has already prooved its Worth.

The Shop is in the Basement of the House – I can work thru the Winter.

[Ramon WilsonParticipant @ramonwilson3]

Zan – personally I wouldn’t get too hung up on the internal angle as it’s just not that important. I did mine by step milling with a ball nose and filing the high spots off. Calls for nothing more complicated than a list of movements to follow – it’s actual surface finish and/or angle to the outside plays no useful part at all in the scheme of things (save one of personal satisfaction I guess)

There are quite a few comments in the original article that can bring a wry smile – and yes it was certainly a different world to today. Just this morning watched a clip of a tool change that was faster than the blink of an eye!

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Zan, it looks to me that a straight cutter would do it provided you did not have a horizontal split line too far up the side of the condenser. Or would a vertical split be possible as that would give a lot more access.

[Ramon WilsonParticipant @ramonwilson3]

Hello Zan,

Thanks for your email which alerted me to your post. You are right it has been sometime since I posted save for the initial issues on the change over.

Engine wise I have nothing to report but a lot has run under the bridge since last doing so. Hopefully I may be able to get back on to it in the Spring.

Re the condenser. I have to confess that initially I misread the drawing and ‘saw it in my head’ from the outset that the plates were recessed. The condenser body was milled to accept such before I realised that mistake. I did consider trying to reclaim it to as it should be but as with yourself, with no intention to run on steam, decided it wasn’t worth it.

As the design calls for, the tubes are soldered after the plates are screwed in place. One can only assume the plates would be sealed by some means too as once soldered they would not be removable. The cavities at each end in the covers which are only open to cooling water would then have a gasket to provide a seal. In that case once you commit to fixing the tubes by ‘soldering’ you may as well commit to doing like wise with the tube plates. Obviously far too much heat would be required for that so standard JB weld or similar springs to mind as a suitable means. A paper or liquid gasket should suffice for the covers which is what I shall do on mine. I ran Loctite Bearing Fit around the edges and around the tubes, not so much to seal but to secure.

Though I have not made any progress on my version the year has been full with other matters. I have now consolidated my 14 x 14 workshop into 14 x 7 and screened it off. ‘Compact and Bijou’ I’m quite happy with the smaller workshop outcome and it will serve more than enough for anything I am likely to do in future. The larger mill has been sold and currently I’m working on the area left to become a ‘clean’ one.

I have hit some health issues this year, nothing serious but enough to have a detrimental effect at times but I’m still maintaining my interest in building and flying control line models and of course plastic modelling. I have several matters to tie up in that direction but I do intend and really hope to be able get back on to the engine next year.

Wishing you, and all that look in, a Happy Xmas and here’s to a good and happy New Year

[Zan]

On Zan Said:

Why can’t I reply to the question about stor@ge of milling cutters?

What happened when you tried?
Was there an error message, or was the reply pane, or submit button missing?

Bill

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Zan, the current issue of ME has the start of another scratch build of that marine engine, it’s the blue one top right of page. Does not look as nice as Ramon’s though.

CNC would make easy work of the McOnie side frames and it would make a great model if enlarged a bit to suit whatever flywheel diameter you could manage

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Must be a Loco thing, I’ve a construction background and it was always usual to fold drawings after all who wants a drawing that keeps trying to roll itself back up every time you get it out to look at.

I’ve made several engines from Anthony’s drawings too and found them to be good, mostly I use the ones from his book or magazine articles. Both easily scanned/copies and printed onto A4. These days as Zan mentions I’d model in CAD and some parts would go straight to CNC with no drawing needed. I also 3D model parts for people that I email to them and they just put it through their slicer software and print it out often a pattern that is then ready to cast.

As an Example I’m just doing the CAd model for someone who has an old Gardner engine that is missing it’s valve block, they can’t use CAD well but do have access to a 3D printer so I’m modeling it from some photos of another engine some with a calliper or rule included in the shot. As some sizes were missing I sent some 1:1 CAD files as PDFs which the guy printed on paper and cut out and was able to offer them upto his engine to see if things fitted OK. After a few revisions I’ll produce >STEP files which he can 3D print from. I did do an A3 sheet that showed all elevations but the A4 ones with one vie won each have been more useful.

[Paul Smitherman 2Participant @paulsmitherman2]

Hi Zan ,many appologies I stand corrected not 32 drwgs BUT 38 many apologies forgot the first six which are GA drwgs, Mostly !! Isee someone is compaining that dimensions fall in the crease where it folds  never never fold drwgs. only roll em original engineeering drwgs were always on linen Not paper and rolled on a batton,  I Have a friend who has many original LNER drwgs from his days at Stratford drwg office , Lots of locos that were drawn but never saw the light of day , Drwgs as good now as day they were drawn (all on linen)  REGARDS PAUL S

[peak4Participant @peak4]

Good Morning @ja, if you head back to the screenshot I gave of Zan’s profile, you will see that the boxes I circled in fuschia pen were under the “Forums” part of his profile, and from here you can see what they have posted, and search within it.
The personal details under the  “Profile” part of his Profile page are not currently visible, returning the same error message you have seen.
Yes it’s correct, that at the moment, you can’t even see your own.
It’s a known problem, and has apparently been reported to the developers, but I’ve never found any formal response from anyone about it yet.
If you search my own posts, you will find I’ve discussed it several times.

I was responding specifically to this part of your question

“Please could I view other people’s profiles. Also it would be nice to know how many postings on the forum they have made.”

 

I can see how many postings you have made 1,617 at the time I took the screenshot;
You have started 47 new topics, and again they are searchable

 

You can access your own Profile tab within your own Profile, and whilst you can’t view even your own, due to the known fault I related earlier, you can edit it.
You will likely need to do this ready for when the fault is cured, since when the public details, contained within the old forum were transferred over here, some embedded text codes were also carried over as plain text.

To do that, Green Bar > Profile brings up your own

Scroll down that page a bit; leads you to here.

 

You can see what information can be hidden everyone/members/just you, etc, as highlighted in yellow

Nickname – red circle, I think might be irrelevant on this new forum; It seems to be the displayed name on the old forum, which was used to create your new user name on this one. Like me yours is quite simple, so transferred easily with just an @ sign prefixing it. Our actual old accounts were purely numeric, with the displayed name acting as a more memorable shortcut.

About Yourself – Blue circle was what was shown on the old forum, when someone tried to view my personal profile, which I’d made public. I needed to edit this as there were lots of surplus inserted formatting strings.
I still can’t view this myself, and neither can anyone else, until the bug is cured.

Display Name – fuscia circle, is the blue hyperlink below your avatar, and points to your profile page.
Like me yours is simple, and carried over directly from the previous forum. Eventually I will edit that to Bill Williams, but I’ll leave it for the time being as I’ve included many screenshots of my own profile, whilst trying to help others.

We really do need some feedback from Admin/Developers on this sort of stuff, and updated help pages.
I’ll bookmark this reply, as I’m starting to get fed up re-compiling and re-posting it.

Bill

 

[peak4]

On peak4 Said:

On JA Said:

…………

Please could I view other people’s profiles. Also it would be nice to know how many postings on the forum they have made.

JA

You can, I explained it to Zan earlier In This Post, further up the page.
Just click on their Displayed Forum Name; the blue hyperlink below their avatar.
Yours is JA Mine is peak4, try clicking on my name as shown here

Bill

No I have not. Screenshot taken at 9.40am.

I cannot even view mine except when I edit it.

 

JA

[JA]

On JA Said:

…………

Please could I view other people’s profiles. Also it would be nice to know how many postings on the forum they have made.

JA

You can, I explained it to Zan earlier In This Post, further up the page.
Just click on their Displayed Forum Name; the blue hyperlink below their avatar.
Yours is JA Mine is peak4, try clicking on my name as shown here

Bill