Search Results for 'zan'

[peak4Participant @peak4]

Good Morning @ja, if you head back to the screenshot I gave of Zan’s profile, you will see that the boxes I circled in fuschia pen were under the “Forums” part of his profile, and from here you can see what they have posted, and search within it.
The personal details under the  “Profile” part of his Profile page are not currently visible, returning the same error message you have seen.
Yes it’s correct, that at the moment, you can’t even see your own.
It’s a known problem, and has apparently been reported to the developers, but I’ve never found any formal response from anyone about it yet.
If you search my own posts, you will find I’ve discussed it several times.

I was responding specifically to this part of your question

“Please could I view other people’s profiles. Also it would be nice to know how many postings on the forum they have made.”

 

I can see how many postings you have made 1,617 at the time I took the screenshot;
You have started 47 new topics, and again they are searchable

 

You can access your own Profile tab within your own Profile, and whilst you can’t view even your own, due to the known fault I related earlier, you can edit it.
You will likely need to do this ready for when the fault is cured, since when the public details, contained within the old forum were transferred over here, some embedded text codes were also carried over as plain text.

To do that, Green Bar > Profile brings up your own

Scroll down that page a bit; leads you to here.

 

You can see what information can be hidden everyone/members/just you, etc, as highlighted in yellow

Nickname – red circle, I think might be irrelevant on this new forum; It seems to be the displayed name on the old forum, which was used to create your new user name on this one. Like me yours is quite simple, so transferred easily with just an @ sign prefixing it. Our actual old accounts were purely numeric, with the displayed name acting as a more memorable shortcut.

About Yourself – Blue circle was what was shown on the old forum, when someone tried to view my personal profile, which I’d made public. I needed to edit this as there were lots of surplus inserted formatting strings.
I still can’t view this myself, and neither can anyone else, until the bug is cured.

Display Name – fuscia circle, is the blue hyperlink below your avatar, and points to your profile page.
Like me yours is simple, and carried over directly from the previous forum. Eventually I will edit that to Bill Williams, but I’ll leave it for the time being as I’ve included many screenshots of my own profile, whilst trying to help others.

We really do need some feedback from Admin/Developers on this sort of stuff, and updated help pages.
I’ll bookmark this reply, as I’m starting to get fed up re-compiling and re-posting it.

Bill

 

[peak4]

On peak4 Said:

On JA Said:

…………

Please could I view other people’s profiles. Also it would be nice to know how many postings on the forum they have made.

JA

You can, I explained it to Zan earlier In This Post, further up the page.
Just click on their Displayed Forum Name; the blue hyperlink below their avatar.
Yours is JA Mine is peak4, try clicking on my name as shown here

Bill

No I have not. Screenshot taken at 9.40am.

I cannot even view mine except when I edit it.

 

JA

[JA]

On JA Said:

…………

Please could I view other people’s profiles. Also it would be nice to know how many postings on the forum they have made.

JA

You can, I explained it to Zan earlier In This Post, further up the page.
Just click on their Displayed Forum Name; the blue hyperlink below their avatar.
Yours is JA Mine is peak4, try clicking on my name as shown here

Bill

[Zan]

On Zan Said:

Getting better, the old method of seeing current activity has returned, but it is still difficult to read. Font is too small, background too bright

no means of seeing if you have visited the thread   But. It’s improving. Still very slow.
can’t find search

I can at least help you with that bit. Forums (from Green or Blue bar) Not Latest Replies.

Alternatively, click on your own, or someone else’s’ profile; from here you can search either your post, or their post, topics started replies etc
Hard to see the search box sometimes, as the contrast is too low.

Bill

 

[Zan]

On Zan said

 

why is the icon on my tablet a “H” not “M “ as before?

 

No idea !!

The icon on my iPad is probably the most tasteful part of this  whole pathetic apology for a forum.

MichaelG.

[Zan]

On Zan said

Thanks Jason. This took several attempts but why when it returns to the thread does it go to ypthe first post in the thread rather than most recent.   Tapping “latest actuvityL takes yo7 out of it al together
The redirect is very slow

 

Thats another one for Admin. Should take you to that reply.

I have told them they nee dto go through this topic and any others about the forum and add any bugs, requests etc to their new reporting system in addition to what the mods have already added, B***ered if I’m going to report 30 odd additional items

[Zan]

On Zan said

…

where is the search?

…

at the upper-right of the useful part of this:

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/

i.e. just below the adverts

Comment: It would help a lot if the Search box was visible on all or most pages

MichaelG.

.

P.S. … For amusement, try searching for search

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Zan, if a recent post on this software go to your profile and it should be listed under activity which is the default it takes you to

 

Putting zan into the search box brings up a lot of your posts or replies to you

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Zan on 21/08/2023 21:33:53:

I have just had a braked own due to a failed Locktite jointed sleeve.

I think it’s due to too much clearance. I used 601 which needs a gap of up to 4 thou.

The big question is does this apply to the total gap between the parts. ie bore dia minus 4 thou per side giving 8 thou difference total, or is it just 4 thou difference.

…

As I read the spec, 601 can cope with total gap (both sides) of up to 0.1mm. So the side clearance of a round rod in a round hole should be no more than 0.05mm (about 2 thou)

In general the fit should be kept tighter than the 'up to' figure, tighter the better.

My experience:

• fresh glue essential because old glue gradually weakens with age.
• cleanliness is usually vital
• gap-fillers are a compromise. Thick bonds are weaker than thin bonds.
• Whether a key is needed or not depends on the type of glue. I don't think 601 needs a key.
• glue not a good idea if the joint gets hot

Dave

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 23/08/2023 10:37:20

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by JasonB on 22/08/2023 11:32:11:

Zan, see my second link where it clearly stated Diametrical clearance twice, the second time is >0.1mm

Psst … <0.1

MichaelG.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Zan, see my second link where it clearly stated Diametrical clearance twice, the second time is >0.1mm  <0.1mm

Edited By JasonB on 22/08/2023 12:21:00

[Rob WalkerParticipant @robwalker86754]

Posted by Andrew Johnston on 27/06/2023 11:00:03:

Posted by Rob Walker on 27/06/2023 09:09:17:

Mill is a Victoria/Elliott U2 – 4HP

That's a good solid mill, will have no problem driving slab mills. Universal as well, which is a nice feature to have, especially if you want to make helical gears.

Like Nigel I have a Clarkson T&C grinder with the accessories to sharpen slab mills and S&F cutters. Thus far I've never needed to use it, but the facility is there when I do.

With a horizantal mill you really need to understand the cutting forces and clamp the work accordingly. Slab mills and S&F cutters want to lift the work, especially with deeper cuts. I learnt the hard way that the laissez aller clamping methods I could get away with on the Bridgeport are nowhere near adequate for the horizontal mill.

Andrew

Work holding is also on the 'to do' list, my whole philosophy with the milling set up is 'big and heavy all-round', future proofing for anything that i might wan to do later down the road.

Fortunately I have 2 vertical heads for it, the standard single swivel and the 'true' universal with the MT3 taper. The MT3 will likely get the most use as my Lathe has this taper and therefore I can use some of the tooling interchangeably. Just need to make a new retained drawbar as I thing the original is 3/8 or something similar, need a metric one for my tooling

[Anonymous]

Posted by Rob Walker on 27/06/2023 09:09:17:

Mill is a Victoria/Elliott U2 – 4HP

That's a good solid mill, will have no problem driving slab mills. Universal as well, which is a nice feature to have, especially if you want to make helical gears.

Like Nigel I have a Clarkson T&C grinder with the accessories to sharpen slab mills and S&F cutters. Thus far I've never needed to use it, but the facility is there when I do.

With a horizantal mill you really need to understand the cutting forces and clamp the work accordingly. Slab mills and S&F cutters want to lift the work, especially with deeper cuts. I learnt the hard way that the laissez aller clamping methods I could get away with on the Bridgeport are nowhere near adequate for the horizontal mill.

Andrew

[Julius Henry MarxParticipant @juliushenrymarx92355]

Hello:

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 18/06/2023 17:53:39:

… forgive the digression …

No problem, today is still Sunday so all is forgiven. But tomorrow is another day, so standard rules apply. 8^)

… Unimat has a certain mystique …

Indeed …

Both certain and unjustified, save only because of the hype and the scarcity, combination which turned it into a collector's item.

In the same catalogue I mentioned previously, a ten piece 1.0 to 8.0 mm ES-16 type collet set (part #152 200) was offered for US$375.00 with additional collets (0.5-1.00 mm to 7.0-8.0 mm) went for US$38.50 each.

A small fortune. I don't have a date for the catalogue but I'd wager that it is post Emco discontinuing the Unimat 3.

That said, Emco still has some Unimat 3 parts for sale. Their webpage (German language only) has the newer ESX16 version of the chuck (M14x1 thread) for €63.60.

The original OEM E-16 collets were standard Schaublin fare ie: very good but quite expensive, as all good quality precision tools are.

Emco sill has a 15 piece (?) set of ESX25 collets in 0.5-1.00 mm (?) to 15-16 mm (?) sizes for €180.00 but I don't who the OEM is.

Thanks for your input.

Best,

JHM

Edited By Julius Henry Marx on 18/06/2023 19:29:12

[John Doe 2Participant @johndoe2]

Posted by Zan on 17/05/2023 13:32:59:

Well Tim if you don’t like the articles there’s two solutions.

Stop reading it

write something which isn’t steam or locomotive based.

The editor can only publish the copy which is sent to him

Not having a go in any way, because we all make mistakes, (as the Dalek said, climbing off the dustbin)………, but a published magazine would, we hope, have some basic fact checking and spelling checks of pieces submitted.

As I'm sure MEW does, and this was a rare glitch.

[JellyParticipant @jelly]

Posted by Robert Atkinson 2 on 03/05/2023 21:42:45:

Jelly,
Do you have a link to the ARB jack? I know that they do a hydralic version of the classic farmers/off-road "hy-lift" jack and a conventional airbag lifting bag/jack but those have a much lower height/diameter ratio and larger overall diameter so much more stable.

Yes there are lots of small importers of poor qulity stuff and even more overseas sellers selling to individuals in the UK with total disregard for the regulations. As somone you desingns and makes things in strict compliance with the regulations and sits on a committee the sets some of them I do find this annoying. Trouble is people are injured and killed by this stuff.

Robert.

ARB seem to have discontinued it in favour of the much simpler airbag type you mentioned which is wider and more conformant resulting in greater stability, and clearly far cheaper to produce (they sell for about wat the Vevor ones do, but have ARB levels of mark-up on them).

.

I after some formative years in O&G, I spent a good chunk of my career operating in the Waste and Resources industry where the regulator is both unable and unwilling to take enforcement action against non-compliant operators, and actively targets larger more compliant operators (who they knew could stand any fines) for minor administrative issues to generate revenue (as admitted by their chief exec on an agency wide call, and leaked to the Gruiniad), but will fail to take against smaller ones which would be bankrupted leaving the regulator to foot the cleanup costs even when other operators give them cast iron evidence of serious non-compliance, that I have long since ceased to get upset about this kind of thing…

To do otherwise would long since have sent me mad, it's just another part of our increasing broken civic landscape stemming from a lack of funding and resources.

.

There's also the issue of how regulatory compliance is now approaching Byzantine levels of complexity, which would be fine, apart from the fact that ultimately for a huge proportion of goods which are subject to self-assessment conformity assessments, it's actually in a place of "Do what you think complies, then if we don't think it did, we will prosecute you at some point later and a judge can decide who was right"…

But simultaneously paying an external body if you don't have to will price you out of the market so there's an unlevel playing field on compliance approaches that incentivises companies to do things in house which they're poorly equipped to do.

.

That's made worse by the fact that we persist as a nation in maintaining an arrangement where the majority of our standards in the hands of a private body, behind a exorbitant paywall. Despite many of them being treated as the de-facto approach to regulatory compliance and some of them being de-jure regulations as they're referenced without expansion in secondary legislation…

Even the Americans make their standards publicly available when they take on legal force.

[peak4Participant @peak4]

Via a fairly circuitous route, involving disabling some security settings etc, they seem to be
"Ball peening pliers" recommended for use on IBM typebars when repairing typewriters
See this old catalogue
https://typewriterdatabase.com/1960-Ames_Gen_Cat_10-March.shop-tools.manual

The link is OK as far as I know, it's just my method of finding it was a bit odd.
You need to scroll just over half way down the page.

See also;
Collectors Weekly to find the logo
https://www.collectorsweekly.com/stories/248422-unknown-silver-hand-tool-marked-made-in

Google Eye on the left hand image led me to a different item, but explained the industry
https://www.etsy.com/dk-en/listing/961853147/vintage-nineprong-bending-pliers

Google search on "Typewriter repair tools 3 owls" led me to a security blocked site, (though I think it's basically OK) for Theodore Monk, who referred to a 1960 Ames Catalogue, and searching for that found the very first link in this post

For their use, see P 68 of This large pdf it shows up as 207 of 490
http://www.bitsavers.org/pdf/ibm/typewriter/25-6007-0_Electric_Typewriters_CE_Ref_Man.pdf

From the Theodore Monk website, which may well show as clear, depending on your browser or ISP

Question
"Hi, I have recently acquired 3 tools, which after lots of searching have identified as for typewriter repair, they have a logo with 3 owls on a branch inside a circle, would anybody know the name of this brand, as I haven’t been able to find out anywhere else!! Many thanks."
Answer
"Dreusicke brand (German). Used by Triumph-Adler and possibly many others"

I can't se them listed on their web site, but the logo looks correct
https://service.dreusicke.de/

They seem to have won a design award in 1954
https://ifdesign.com/en/winner-ranking/project/kombinations-typenjustierzange-fur-schreibmaschinen/2765

Bill

 

 

Edited By peak4 on 28/04/2023 18:49:21

[FulmenParticipant @fulmen]

Zan might not be entirely wrong (but not right either).

They might work better on thin walled parts for the same reason that a 6SC (6-jaw Self Center) is even better. And they might even be more rigid than a 3SC assuming you get full contact on all jaws. But can you?

According to Wobbly Table Theorem you can always get a 4 legged table to be stable by rotating it. But that assumes point contact, while chuck jaws are anything but. So it might be worth a shot when working with one, but it's no argument for choosing it over a 3SC.

As mr Rimmer points out, if they were that superior we would have seen more of them by now. A 3SC is the obvious all-round choice. It will hold almost any shape reliably, and even cheap Chinese chucks can hold 0,03mm or better when new. Anything will wear in time, and cheap stuff tends to wears fast. But 9 times out of 10 they are the simplest solution by far. A 4IA will do anything the 4SC will do and a lot more.

Having a loose fit on the back plate is a simple fix for a loose chuck, but with a new chuck one should obviously try a slip fit first. You can always remove more metal later, adding it back is a bit more work.

[ZanParticipant @zan]

A 4 jaw sc chuck is vastly superior to a 3 jaw. It grips much tighter so with it, the horror of the bar slipping when threading has gone. It grips lighter thin pieces more gently without crushing , it is highly accurate at all diameters. it holds hex bar easily and has no problem with cast bars

A chuck on a hobby lathe does not need an accurate register. My 5” is a loose fit on it which enables it to be clocked dead on centre, where it remains thus the accuracy The register is only needed if the metal removal is higher than the lathe is capable of giving I can easily take cuts of 6 mm on my S7 without any problems

Anybody who condemns a 4 jaw sc chuck obviously hasn’t used one I hardly ever used my 3 jaw fir so long, that I mounted it permanently on a milling vice rotation base ( also never used from new!) to form a spin fixture for the miller

so the OP should should skim his backplate then bolt the chuck to it and get turning Send me a pm if you want advice on how to do this

Edited By Zan on 22/04/2023 21:25:32

[peak4Participant @peak4]

Posted by Zan on 18/04/2023 09:04:37:

Sounds an interesting museum

please give location and link

I fancy some smarties

Not sure to which museum Rainbows is referring, but Kelham Island in Sheffield has a similar display and is well worth a visit; if you can find the best route to the entrance via the new low traffic planters.
https://www.sheffieldmuseums.org.uk/visit-us/kelham-island-museum/

I was there yesterday, as the host a series of lunchtime lectures.

Bill

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, well I'll not claim that my machines are exactly spot on as far as the head and spindle alignment goes, but I don't believe they are far enough out to be worried about. I did tram my Champion and mini mill up, using the same method as Zan, by using a brake disc, but I skimmed an old one up after removing the portion that fitted to the car. After skimming I did some tests to see if both sides were parallel to each other and to see if the thickness was consistent. My tests at the time showed a difference of about 0.0005" in just a small portion, which I accepted to be good enough. I've done a test to show how I decided upon the runout, which shows the result under two DTI's while rotating the disc through one complete turn. It might not be the most precise way, but the same result can be repeated time and again. The two DTI's are on the same radius and when they are both moved to an different identical radius, the DTI readouts are the same and in the same portion.

When I do any tramming with this, I usually rotate it on the table three or four times and recheck the results. I can't say that I've noticed anything really out to get worried about when I mill anything.

Regards Nick.

[ZanParticipant @zan]

To make trimming easier and more trouble free I got a new car brake disc and use that on the table

It eliminated the problems associated with the dti plunger dropping into the t slots and questions about has the setting changed. £10 on the bay, well spent

once you correct the nod  extend the quill and mount the dti on the table and raise/lower the head to check the quill, but correction of any error here is a much bigger problem. 

don’t ask how I know…….

Edited By Zan on 20/03/2023 09:58:14

[ZanParticipant @zan]

When making my dividing head. I was so so proud of the worm, first I had made , many many cuts and a lot of time, Because for me the thread was deep and the tool was wide. The shaft was spot on  giving a precision running fit on the housing It was perfect. Smooth flanks polished crests. I was so proud, that is,  until I fitted it and found it was the wrong hand….. That was in 1988 never throw things out. It’s now built into my loco building ( made 30 years later) stand and nicely rotates my small 7 1/4 loco

Edited By Zan on 16/03/2023 18:59:24

[peak4Participant @peak4]

As others have said above, welding directly to the 5mm sheet will likely pull it out of flat, but the 4x50mm bar should act as reasonable bracing for the legs; In my case I used 40mm square box section.

For the top, I have used 43mm thick high density chipboard, recovered from a factory mezzanine floor, The whole setup is plenty rigid, but obviously the top surface would be susceptible to damage; second hand thick kitchen worktop would do just as well.
I my case I've covered the chipboard with some laminated flooring, but adding the 5mm steel sheet would seem ideal.
It will be hard wearing, and suitable as a welding surface, but with the thick chipboard backing, also be well supported and quieter than if the steel was used on its own.

p.s. when coming up with your measurements, don't forget to allow for the height and fixings for a decent bench vice if you intend to fit one.
When I set up mine, I had a smaller vice than the one I now use; the replacement is taller, and so raised the height just too much for comfortable hacksawing.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 12/03/2023 19:59:23

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Well I’m at a total loss here. I followed SOD by

copying all pictures to an external drive

deleted d: pictures which had to be permanently deleted as too big for recycle bin

clicked on pictures icon in “ My Computer”.
error as expected. d: pictures nor found

cannot right click on picture icon , it just scrolls and scrolls Had to close window to stop it

Created a new D: pictures saved a test photo in it accessible now from my computer pictures icon It shows the test picture but the folder is just a name , not the windows “ picture icon”

I cannot get the properties box up with any tab for location

I am set as admin for this machine

the SE still looks for d: pictures and hangs up

So I did a google search n found help in the registry edit so using the following

ComputerHKEY_CURRENT_USERSOFTWAREMicrosoftWindowsCurrentVersionExplorerShell Folders

and edited the “my pictures” data stream to c: users/Graham/Pictures.
Closed. Rebooted. Pictures still shortcut to D:

SE still won’t get past the error in my OP

 Edited to remove random smily face, cos I’m not smiling……

Edit to remove spaces in reg pictures setting. 
think I’m going to have to go back to my computer shop

Edited By Zan on 12/03/2023 14:17:30

Edited By Zan on 12/03/2023 14:20:54