Search Results for 'arc euro'

[James AParticipant @jamesalford67616]

Michael: I see what you mean by "reassuringly expensive", but there are some good ideas there. Thank you.

Trevor: thank you for the details of your two vices, but I think that they will be too large, sadly. I shall have a look at the Arceuro and Proops products, though. Thank you for the suggestions.

Regards,

James.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Setting work in a four jaw independent chuck may take more time, but it should (The accuracy is in your hands ) produce far greater concentricity than a 3 jaw self centering chuck. Possibly ten times more concentric.

If you don't have one, you will need one at some time in the future, believe me!.

If you want a new backplate and chuck, Arc Euro offer 5" diameter backplates threaded 1 1/2 x 8 tpi (Catalogue 11 price was £22.40 + ,carriage )

Arc Euro offer a 125 mm 4 jaw independent chuck for £55:00

They also offer 125 mm diameter 3 jaw self centering chucks for £49.00 and soft Jaws are available for £21.70 a set.

In both cases, the fixing thread in the back of the chuck is M8.

Daft Thought.

If a set of soft jaws would fit your existing chuck, (Scroll / slots ) you could turn those to be a set of external jaws? Admittedly soft, but still suitable for use as External jaws, since neither set of jaws (hard or soft ) will give such good concentricity as a 4 jaw independent

Howard

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Steve M on 14/03/2021 10:05:50:

… Inside the holder is this offset flange than prevents you tighening up the threaded nut that tightens the collet. I had a chat with my neighbour a few doors up and we put it down poor craftmanship and you get what you pay for. I bored the flange away …

Anyway. The chap a couple of doors up decided to also buy the same holder and by chance it has the same offset flange inside. Its making us wonder whether it actually has a purpuse?

…

Oh dear, the good news is the clip flange thingy regularly catches out newcomers to the ER system. You and your neighbour are not alone, though this is the first time someone has gone so far as to removed the lip! Usually not clicking the collet into place just causes poor run-out, and the problem is easily fixed when the secret is revealled. (Incidentally, I've never seen it explained other than in the ArcEuro link Jason provided.)

Word of warning; quite a lot of chaps on the internet set the expectation that everything made in Asia is carp. It's not true. True some stuff is 'cheap and nasty', but most is mid-range, and probably 'good enough'. Give it the benefit of the doubt before jumping to conclusions! To reduce the risk I prefer to buy from the likes of ArcEuro rather than importing from abroad because local firms filter out much of the rubbish and UK consumer protection applies if a total dud gets past them. (They do sometimes.)

Bad news, I doubt the modified ER chuck is 'working perfectly'. As the flange serves to locate and support the collet, it's unlikely the chuck will hold the collet as well as it should, particularly when fully torqued up and used to take deep cuts.

By the by the amount of tightening required is also rarely mentioned. It's far more than I expected! Good news, you can get ball bearing Collet Nuts that are easy to tighten, which will solve both problems. Arc~Euro sell them, other vendors available. (Note there are two types of nut depending on the holder.)

Can you report back on how your modification works?. In theory it's not a good idea, but it might work in practice. Only you can tell us!

Don't be afraid to ask on the forum – chances are someone knows the answer or can point you in the right direction.

These incidents are all part of the fun!

Dave

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

The offset flange is there for a very good purpose.

Examination will show that it is a deliberate design feature and not poor workmanship.

The Collet clips into the offset flange, so that when the nut is slackened, it releases the collet from the taper.

If you have tightened the nut down hard onto the collet, you may have cracked or distorted both, and ruined them!

The Arc Euro catalogue shows how to mount ER collets.

Howard

[Craig BrownParticipant @craigbrown60096]

I wondered the same when I first got mine but it is there to retain the collect, the collet snaps into this offset ring and it holds it there.

Good pictures and description here: https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Collets/ER32-Collets

Edit: Jason beat me to it 

Edited By Craig Brown 2 on 14/03/2021 10:14:27

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The offset is to clip the collet into which will then make it captive in the nut so that when you undo the nut it pulls the collet out of the taper. If you put the nut on loose the offset ring will push the collet side ways and give a wonky cutter, make it hard to extract the collet and may well damage the collet

See here

Edited By JasonB on 14/03/2021 10:10:53

[Dan_BParticipant @dan_b]

Hi,

I thought it might be useful to others if I updated this thread with details of my collet purchase.

I bought one of the sets from arceurotrade and have no regrets at all. They are a big improvement on my original ebay set and after running the dti on the first few uses I haven't felt the need to check run-out any further.

I have more error in the collet chuck than I do in the collets and with care if I mount the chuck in the best position the collets that I have checked have been in the region of 0.005mm to 0.01mm concentricity when measured around 10mm from the face. Good enough for me!

Hope that helps others who may be looking at similar choices and thank you for the advice received in this thread.

Dan

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

But tolerance and clearance are two different things. You can adjust clearance as you say but tolerance is the machined finish of the races and rollers and the exact size there of.

Sounds like you have to buy the close tolerance bearings from the machine tool supplier who get them made in batches to special order. Hence the hundreds upon hundreds of pounds for Colchester taper roller headstock bearings.

You might try some of the quality Japanese suppliers like Koyo and Naachi. Or the German FAG?

But, depending what you are doing with your little Prazi lathe, the standard grade bearings will probably do the job.

Maybe talk to Ketan at ArcEurotrade. He is pretty up on these small lathes and various bearing upgrades and suppliers.

 

Edited By Hopper on 10/03/2021 05:48:33

Edited By Hopper on 10/03/2021 05:49:33

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

Whatever slide-way screen my Myford VMC mill had originally, was missing when I bought the machine second-hand. I made a basic knee and vertical slide protector using left-over butyl garden-pond liner, held by the existing strip on the cross-slide, and a length of thin aluminium-angle screwed to the existing holes in the column.

The sheet also protects the elaborate metalwork I had to build to hold the cross-travel DRO strip.

The angle forms a little shelf, so I drilled a few holes in it to store things like the drill-chuck key and edge 'wiggler'.

I may see what ArcEuro can offer in that size though, ready for when the pond-liner eventually expires, though it seems to be holding up well.

[Nick Clarke 3Participant @nickclarke3]

There is only one machine in the ArcEurotrade range that matches your budget.

I bought the previous version which fitted not only my budget but also the space available in my garage workshop – milling machines need space round them!

The current version is more powerful and better specced so it might pay investigation.

My experience with Arc as a supplier is very good, but I cannot say from experience that it is unusual as I seem to go there first.

What you also need to consider is that tooling for a milling machine may cost a fair proportion of the cost of the basic machine.

Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 08/03/2021 21:27:28

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

You have an Amadeal lathe – they also supply mills – try them?

Check out the other main mill suppliers and take your pick.

Personally I wouldn’t be buying on price alone. Arceurotrade would be my first (and likely only) port of call. There are not many new machines, from relable sellers, within your price specification.

A larger machine can be bought secondhand, of course. Are you contemplating new or a second use machine?

Edited By not done it yet on 08/03/2021 21:14:16

[Dr_GMJNParticipant @dr_gmjn]

By the way I think this thing was made from cast iron. If I’m forced to make another (and let’s be clear it’s a last resort), what material should I go for?

The Arc Euro insert type parting tools look substantial – anyone got one?

Thanks all.

[JourneymanParticipant @journeyman]

Basically 3 types (someone will be along soon to tell me I'm wrong).
1. Push in
2. Clamp
3. Cut

For a small lathe such as the WM180 probably better with the Clamp type as it imposes less strain on the bearings. The cut type are good but seethingly expensive. Have a look at this one from ** ArcEuroTrade **

This article on making ** toolmakers clamps ** covers knurling in a bit more detail, about half way down the page.

John

Edited By Journeyman on 07/03/2021 17:16:53

[Philip AParticipant @philipa30666]

I've been getting on with my new Sieg Mini Mill great. But swarf and flying chips are becoming a problem, they go onto the dovetails behind the x-y table and onto the floor and carry on shoes. The Arceurotrade mill doesn't come with those rubber bellows.

Has anyone got a quick or low cost solution?

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Ken,

The Operator Manual for my Sieg C3 (Brushed DC motor ) mini lathe specifically warns that the speed must be set to Zero before starting the lathe. I always bring the speed to Zero before starting or stopping the lathe.

" CAUTION Always turn the speed control to the minimum speed position before starting lathe Starting the lathe with the speed control set to a higher speed can damage the sped control circuit board"

Ketan at Arc Euro suggested feeding the power through a surge protector. so bought a short extension lead with one built in.

Your lathe was not made by Sieg but the basic designs are probably very similar, no doubt the same precautions should be taken

Howard.

[Raphael GolezParticipant @raphaelgolez]

Hello to all,

I was pulling out the pulley from my S7 motor which you guys have given a very good advice and it was fixed.

Initially the pulley got stuck as I remember I placed a thread locker years ago as it keeps on unscrewing and I got fed up.

This time I could not unscrew it and stip the head of the grub screw. I could not drill it as I believe its a hardened (unbrako??) screw. I managed to get the pulley out by using a puller but the broken grub screw remained. I tied heating it with a small butane torch to melt away the thread locker but nothing happened.

As I read hear, one solution is to use a left hand drill to extract it out. I have been looking for a left hand cobalt drill but all I get is from ebay and i'm not to confident of the quality. I check on Arc-eurotrade and the reputable seller but all I can see are right hand cobalt drill. I don't want to drill trough it. Any thoughts or advice guys?

 

Thanks,

Raphael

Edited By Raphael Golez on 05/03/2021 15:20:35

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The one ARC do is probably the closest to your link, works well on the ends of cutters and easy & quick to use.

Review here

Edited By JasonB on 04/03/2021 20:02:13

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Agree with old mart that ER 25 would be the usual choice for a machine of that size with its MT3 taper..

However I'd seriously consider getting sidelock endmill holders like those sold by ArcEurotrade **LINK** .

They are more compact than an ER collet system being both shorter and of smaller diameter. Which can be imortant when doing small work wth small cutters. All too often an ER system forces the use of long series endmills to clear other parts of the job.

Cutters with flats are no readily avaliable at sensible prices so there are few downsides. A not insignificant advantage is that cutters can be left mounted up so you don't have issues with varying stick outs. Its not impossibly expensive to have enough holders that your general use cutters can be kept ready mounted rather after teh fasion of alateh QC toolpost system.

Cli

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

Well, it looks as if you have inherited a very fully-equipped machine-tool there.

'

Screw-cutting :

You show the change-wheel guard buried under parts & accessories, but if you are lucky it will (as mine does) contain the chart for Imperial and Metric threads, plus fine feeds, covered by the standard change-wheel set.

You cab obtain a 63T wheel for the Myford, which also helps cut metric threads, with a small pitch error usually not important over a short distance.

'

Cleaning:

As others say, be careful with cleaning rust from bearing surfaces like the various slide-ways. I'd use a brass wire-brush on delicate areas, to remove the loose rust. Then ordinary cloth, oil and lots of elbow-grease.

Someone on another thread recently advised against using abrasive sponge-type pads on such surfaces as these can contain silica (sand, basically), a very hard abrasive likely to remain trapped in crevices or to embed itself into cast-iron surfaces to turn them into laps. As bad as using wet-&-dry!

The main parts of the lathe are of cast-iron with steel gibs and lead-screws.

Cast-iron is a bit more resistant to deep rusting than mild-steel, and the brass brush then rubbing the surface hard with a oily cloth may be sufficient to remove the surface rust, leaving a slightly pitted, patinated but serviceable surface that will slowly restore itself in use.

I recently used a water-soluble de-rusting material called Restore from Arc Euro, to clean my tailstock drilling attachment (a modern version of that in your set). It had been quietly rusting in its box on the shelf! I don't know what Restore is chemically, but it does not seem to build up the surface as Swarf Mostly warns some rust-removers will. It leaves a grey finish that I polished very lightly back with fine steel-wool then oily cloth – I did dismantle the device for the process. I have not yet tried Restore on cast-iron though, only mild-steel, so proceed with caution.

'

On dismantling –

As others say… DON'T! Not the machine itself anyway.

Smaller assemblies maybe, and then dismantle, clean and re-assemble one at a time completely. Note carefully the proper locations of parts with ambiguous locations such as chuck-jaws, as their matching numbers might not now be legible. I would be tempted not to dismantle chucks further than removing the jaws unless they really are bunged up with muck and congealed oil.

'

It will be good to see this lathe and its accessories back in service – a worthy tribute to your grandfather!

[Rik ShawParticipant @rikshaw]

I have had no problems with new 123 blocks, V blocks etc from China via ArcEuro 1 or 2 tenths of a thou error here and there but more than good enough for general machining in my humble workshop. I would not be as confident though if I was chasing tenths on a surface grinder.

I did consider a set of slips from China but felt much more comfortable some years ago spending my loot on a nice set of second hand 1950's? Coventry Matrix imperial inspection grade slips from Ebay for about £60 if memory serves. For a number of years I have been keeping my eyes open for a set of (cheap) cages to go with them but no luck so far.

As for delivery times it will be interesting to see how long the magnetic V blocks ordered last week from India take to arrive.

Rik (Slip fan)

[Ramon WilsonParticipant @ramonwilson3]

Hi Doc – I've been using the double ended teleguages for years now without any problems. I bought a set of them similar to those at Arc Euro – all I found was that the sliding surfaces need to be smoothed with a small fine stone to improve the slidability as Emgee states. The change was considerable such that I passed on my single ended Moore and Wright ones!

I also use the method of tilting the guage, tightening it slightly then swing it through an arc across the bore to close the gauge to dimension. do this movement only once ie don't rock back and forth. When measuring rock the gauge slightly on a short arc as you close the mic until it just touches. I have other means as Emgee's guages above plus a bore gauge and inside mics – still turn to the teleguage at first though.

Use them all the time – only yesterday infact

Ramon

PS Re the digi readout on the lathe – I have them on both mills but have never felt the need to fit them to the Myford. I do have a fixed stop set up and use slips for accurate X measurement if needed. I do have the resettable dials fitted and metric leadscrews on cross and compound slides.

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 01/03/2021 11:16:31

[Tony RayParticipant @tonyray65007]

Hi Graham,

Regarding height adjustable tool posts you have have 3 options which I will describe by the original makers names:

Dickson

The correct size is S1 ( there is a shorter S1x I don’t think this is what you need but as I have a Boxford branded one that came off my AUD I’ll check tomorrow). Genuine tool holders are great, imported ones are variable from ok to rubbish.

Bison also make a version and most parts are interchangeable particularly the tools holders.

Multifix

if I were starting from scratch this is the onE I would choose. Like the Dickson genuine items are pricey. PeeWee tools in Germany are reported to sell a high quality copy. There are a series of measurements that have to be taken to determine what size is required. PeeWee

Aloris

This is popular in the US. You will find hard to get genuine used parts in the UK but again Far Eastern versions are available. I can’t comment on them as I have never used one.eg Arc

This is quite an investment but as long as you already have decent chucks is probably the first thing I would add.

[DazzaParticipant @dazza]

Hi everyone.

I’m sorry this post is probably going to be long winded and possibly not make much sense. I’m looking for some recommendations on measuring small diameter bores.

I’m currently building a rc Scania truck chassis. I’m using pretty small bearings. From 4 mm to 10 mm outside diameter. I’m struggling to decide what’s the best way to measure the bores to fit the bearings properly. At the minute I’m using a cheap inside jaw micrometer I got of eBay and calibrating it with my Mitutoyo Digimatic QuantuMike outside micrometer. Still sometimes I end up with the bore slightly too big and the bearing fit is loose.

I’ve been debating with myself for weeks about the best way to measure the bores. Do I stick with the inside jaw micrometer but get a decent make or do I go with a 3 point inside micrometer, again of a decent make.

Next, the question is what make do I go for. Obviously I would like the Mitutoyo inside micrometer, but the prices are scary. Arceurotrade and Chronos Tools both sell 3 point micrometer sets but only down to 6mm. The only other website I can find is Digital Micrometers Ltd who sell a set of 3 point micrometers from 3mm to 6mm. Roughly half the price of the Mitutoyo set but they’re still over £700.

Has anyone used DML micrometers or calipers and could give an opinion on their quality? I’m guessing they’re probably made in China, which doesn’t necessarily mean they would be poor quality, but would I really notice the quality difference between the Mitutoyo and the DML sets?

Looking forward to the different opinions or perhaps other options to measure small diameter bores.

Darren

[SteviegtrParticipant @steviegtr]

Made 4 hold down clamps from steel, for the new Arc eurotrade vise.

Steve.

Edited By Steviegtr on 27/02/2021 23:32:12

[Stuart Smith 5Participant @stuartsmith5]

I initially fitted 2 fairly cheap individual DROs from Arceurotrade to the x and y axes on my WM16. **LINK**

I found that the display on the quill DRO fitted as standard to the WM16 a bit small, so I bought another , made an interface box with an Arduino and Bluetooth module and use the TouchDRO app on a cheap Android tablet as the display. https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/albums/member_photo.asp?a=50081&p=859167

I would suggest you at least buy the 3 axis display even if you only start with 2 encoders. Then you can upgrade to the 3rd axis if you find the standard quill DRO difficult to read.

Stuart
 

Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 26/02/2021 14:18:04