Search Results for 'arc euro'

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

It's the drill diameter that takes the torque not thickness! I'd guess the SX1LP would be your best bet, a better motor option than the Clarke which is basically the same machine but with smaller table and (IMHO) lower quality.

Arc Eurotrade are the go-to supplier for Sieg in my view. The table on the SX1LP is small enough, but I think you'd find that the CMD10 version is much too small for motorbike parts. People seem pretty happy with the X1 type mills on the whole, look for Mike's Workshop on Google, he has done a lot with it and describes a lot of mods and accessories.

[Ian MellorsParticipant @ianmellors72388]

Thankfully I got one for my Clarke CL250M (same machine as the C1) 16 years ago.

As has been said Arc euro still do spares etc for these lathes. It's also still sold by Sealey under the number SM2503, again they carry some accessories but not the compound slide.

If you paid less that £280 for a C1 then you got a bargain assuming it's in good nick

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Do Chester, or Warco sell C1s?

Arc Euro Trade may have some spares. Am sure that if they can help, they will

Lathes UK may provide the names of other suppliers, who may be able to supply parts.

Howard

[Jeremy PaduanoParticipant @jeremypaduano78634]

Wow Howard! Thanks for all the advice 😁. I’ve got Sparey’s book, and a set of tables, but not come across “The Amateur’s Workshop “. Everyone says HSS tooling is easier to use, so I’m keen to learn how to grind cutters on my bench grinder – although I’ve started by buying some already made from Arceurotrade. I’m expecting more to go into the bin than make it through to a finished exercise initially, so will be starting very throwaway 👍 Definitely baby steps…Got a week off at the moment, so am simply making swarf out of steel and brass to begin to understand how speeds and feeds effect the result. At some point the tools will need repointing on the grinder – the first opportunity to start learning that.

Take care all, off for my second jab in a few minutes 😁

[pgk pgkParticipant @pgkpgk17461]

Posted by Stueeee on 30/05/2021 10:39:23:

I think that you might be better off thinking about the type welding you do and get a machine that is specifically for that purpose. e.g. If your welding tasks require a lot more finesse than your existing buzz box arc welder, maybe a TIG welder would be best for you. On the other hand If you are going to be doing a lot of repair work on thin sheet metal, then a MIG welder would be very useful.

The "combination" machines I've used seem to compromise each function to some extent. In a MIG welder I'd want an internal gas solenoid and a industry standard Eurotorch fitting as a minimum.

For a TIG welder I'd want it to have HF (High Frequency) arc starting, internal gas solenoid rather than a gas valved torch. And ideally the facility to fit a current control foot pedal, or failing that, the ability to set a specific current upslope/downslope (so-called 4T operation)

Edited By Stueeee on 30/05/2021 10:41:14

My reality is that any welding I'm likely to do will be outdoors so antistick stick and flux wire would be the priorities and a decent duty cycle . By the time I'm into machines that do that then it appears the price point is similar to a poor man's added tig if i ever wanted to get into playtime…

Ron Laden

It's a start and having the second hand free will make a huge difference. or a mere inch material, tacking it and the running short beads probbaly means getting better at scratch start than i ever do. You're also aware to keep those rods dry or dry them before use. Depending on the design of your trolley I might consider making up some solid inserts for corners and T's to reduce weld warp and blow through?

pgk

[StueeeeParticipant @stueeee]

Posted by pgk pgk on 30/05/2021 09:02:40:

This thread caused me to go look at current offerings and I see there are some multifunction machines around – combo stick,mig, flux wire and lift-tig that also provide antistick on the MMA around the £250 figure (plus extras if one wants to go gas/tig later). I guess mutlifunction leaves compromises and yes those machines generally should have a 32A supply (unless being careful with settings/limitations/extension cords) but at the power settings I'm likely to use a 60% duty cycle looks good.
Comments?

pgk

I think that you might be better off thinking about the type welding you do and get a machine that is specifically for that purpose. e.g. If your welding tasks require a lot more finesse than your existing buzz box arc welder, maybe a TIG welder would be best for you. On the other hand If you are going to be doing a lot of repair work on thin sheet metal, then a MIG welder would be very useful.

The "combination" machines I've used seem to compromise each function to some extent. In a MIG welder I'd want an internal gas solenoid and a industry standard Eurotorch fitting as a minimum.

For a TIG welder I'd want it to have HF (High Frequency) arc starting, internal gas solenoid rather than a gas valved torch. And ideally the facility to fit a current control foot pedal, or failing that, the ability to set a specific current upslope/downslope (so-called 4T operation)

Edited By Stueeee on 30/05/2021 10:41:14

[Peter Sullivan 1Participant @petersullivan1]

Les, Chris and Stuart – thank you for your excellent input. As Captain Darling would say – Oh Bugger. I think I’m going to have to get me a pair of magnetic scales and fit them after all. It leaves me with a perfectly serviceable, albeit second hand, Arceuro system. I may try to adapt it to fit my ‘35 Drummond M lathe, but I’m having difficulty in imagining the value of that – it may end up on eBay. Thanks once again for your help, it is much appreciated. Peter.

[Stuart Smith 5Participant @stuartsmith5]

Peter

The current DRO setup you have looks like the ones sold by Arceuro. I am pretty sure they are capacitive type, the same as digital calipers. In fact they look like digital calipers but fitted with an output socket.

Unfortunately, they won’t be compatible with your new display unit which is designed for magnetic or optical scales which have a different output format.

I think you have 2 options : buy new scales or return the new display unit if possible and buy or make an interface to use your existing scales with the TouchDRO app using an android tablet as the display. I have this system on my mini lathe and on my mill. They both use diy interface circuits I made myself. I have used modified Lidl digital calipers on the mini lathe and Arceuro scales on my mill (though they are different to the ones you have).

Here is the link to the TouchDRO developers site: **LINK**

Stuart

Or I suppose a 3rd option : use them as they are.

Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 28/05/2021 20:09:28

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Yes, they do work well enough. Indication to 0.01mm, but obviously less accuracy/precision when standard errors are included. With mine (the three axis version) readings are not quite consistent in that last decimal place, either. But good enough for what I do. Purchased from Arceuro.

I was considering using the scales and change to a large ‘calculating’ read-out. Enquiries to both the suppliers of those units and possible read-out heads were not helpful, so I simply decided to run the calculations (pitch circle holes for example) on my other set-up and just use the coordinates, calculated, on my little mill.

This thread may help me proceed further, but I’m not into such intricacies unless found really necessary. M-dro could supply conversion connectors but one is on one’s own until you know what you need!

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

The longest plunger clocks that Arc Euro do in Metric is 0.01 mm x 30 mm travel. Otherwise, they have a 0.001" 2" travel imperial.one.

Range is important if using as a measuring instrument, rather than bringing a workpiece back to a Zero deflection condition.

For this, you are unlikely to need a long travel, and possibly the units don't really matter, since you are looking for Zero, or absolutely minimal divergence.

To measure long distances, you could use gauge blocks and a short travel clock, since you are only interested in stopping once the distance has been traveled, accurately.

(This is how distances are measured on Jig Borers!, or with Height Gauges and Height Micrometers. )

Howard

[Eric CoxParticipant @ericcox50497]

I have a boring head from Arc Euro. The graduated dial to increase the radius of the tool only has graduations and no indication of how much each graduation represents. Any idea ?

[GazzParticipant @gazz]

Part 6 "Y axis accordion way cover/ bellows"

The Y axis has a neoprene sheet type cover for the rear of the ways on this mill, pretty standard on these Chinese mills it seems, but i didn't like it and wanted one of the pleated accordion type way covers like the Z axis has.

I could have bought one from china on alliexpress etc, or even had one custom made by a camera bellows maker, but i was ordering some things from arc euro trade and saw they did them, i measured up and of course i'd need the most expensive on they sold, it always seems to be like that.

So i bought This One costing £39

The actual item is a little different from that picture, but it's just an extra chromed strip and angles on the end with the taller fixing piece.

It measures 240mm wide, which is handily a little wider than the width of the bottom part of the dovetail castings on the Y axis, so it will fully cover the oiled sliding parts of this axis, and I knew i'd need to cut the pvc formers to make it fit, but the actual black parts of the bellows are just right for the Y axis of this mill.

I cut the pvc formers straight up and across at the edges of the black part of the bellows, i could have tried cutting the angles so they'd go over the dovetail of the Y axis, but i figured as the pvc formers would be off the end of the dovetails when compressed, they might get snagged and not slide over them when moving the Y axis forwards and rip the bellows apart.
The black part of the bellows in the above picture sit nicely over the dovetails with a couple of MM sideways movement if you push them.

I also reduced the overall length of the bellows, as when compressed they restricted the Y axis moving right back, i found if i cut the bellows at the 1st PVC part, i'd have enough length when fully extended to cover the ways and not be too tight, and the metal cover reinforces the end of the bellows nicely.

Above you can hopefully see where i reduced the overall length, i could have cut them even shorter, but it was best to cut them where the chromed metal strip is, as that's where the PVC former part is in them, and that gives a strong point to fix that end to the table.

For the moving table end i used the holes that were already there for the flat cover.. i used a marker pen to 'blue up' the area around the holes, and pressed the bellows against them and it transferred the holes positions nicely.

At the column end (right in the pic above) you can see that i used a piece of aluminium to make up the difference from the foot of the column and the actual column, i used a piece of the aluminium extrusion i had left over from the DRO instal as the packer, the joint where the column meets it's mounting foot is not cast perfectly flush, so you'd need to mill a relief in the packer piece there.

Yes, i know, i drilled the holes off centre, i had to use a right angle drill adaptor to get in there to drill the holes in the column and didn't realise i had the left hand one lower than the right until i had finished tapping it, i can't see these fixing screws when using the mill, and i totally forgot about them untill i took this photo.

This is the cover from the top fully extended:

And here is the cover fully compressed:

I mentioned in part 5 that the splash guard for the X axis DRO scale might need to be cut in half to give me full Y axis travel towards the column, it turns out i don't need to do that after all, as it was the flat neoprene Y axis cover bunching up against the DRO scale cover that was causing the restriction.

You can see the black pen mark on the base of the mill that i put on when measuring up for the DRO scales, that is the true end of the Y axis travel, so i am short of maybe 2 or 3MM's now due to the bellows, the vice now goes even further back under the X axis bellow, and i can live with out that last couple of mm's of travel i think.

 

To Be Continued….

 

Edited By Gazz on 18/05/2021 16:14:25

[john halfpennyParticipant @johnhalfpenny52803]

DROs are Arc Euro standard type with remote display.

[john halfpennyParticipant @johnhalfpenny52803]

The chuck spindle is 4mt. I have a 3mt ER32 with M12 thread, and converter sleeve. The Machine Mart chuck/collets are a non standard form, so to be avoided. I bought a metric ER32 set with additional 1/8 and 1/4 collets.

My DRO was from Arc Euro, on X and Y axes, and cut down to suit. Works well, with a simple aluminium shield.

 

Edited By john halfpenny on 14/05/2021 19:22:51

[martin perman 1Participant @martinperman1]

ER 32 milling Collet chuck from arceuro with a set of collets is cheaper than MMbut with MM you one more collet but you may need to make another draw bar, currently cant remember mill draw bar thread.

Martin P

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 13/05/2021 18:01:36:

Posted by Bo'sun on 13/05/2021 17:46:37:

Thank you George, the link takes me to ARC, but it doesn't work. When I search "DRO scale" the only DRO scale seems to be a vertical one. Is that what you have?

Looks like George's link got mangled. I think he meant these, which I have too.

Although not coolant-proof they work well enough. The separate readouts are mildly inconvenient and don't do any of the clever stuff like PCD but they're streets ahead of dials.

Dave

Thanks Dave, exactly what I was trying to link to.

George.

[john halfpennyParticipant @johnhalfpenny52803]

Danni, my qctp is a chinese model 100, available from ArcEuro and others. It works well, though the supplied clamping screws are crappy.

[Ian ParkinParticipant @ianparkin39383]

Tifa

i use a variety of collets er 11,16,20,32,40 in my mill but my goto ones are mt3 collets in the sizes i need to hold cutters..quick and easy to use and change sizes.

get the ones that suit your drawbar mine uses m12

 

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/Morse-Taper-Collets/MT3-Collets-Metric-Sizes

Edited By Ian Parkin on 14/05/2021 12:24:36

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

If you want to stick with ARC then this would be a suitable collet chuck and basic range of 6 collets to start with for tool holding, if in the furure you want to hold work on the lathe and miil in collets then the next size up ER32 may be better.

6mm and 10mm 3-flute cutters should get you started then add to those as and when needed

80mm or 100mm Versatile vices are OK too.

Dti to set your vice and true and an edge finder(D) would be worth putting towards the top of a long list along with some bedtime reading

[Tifa 8572Participant @tifa857287838]

Well, I've finally gone and done it.

I've bought myself a Warco WM16b milling machine. (wooHooo!) It appears to be very well made, and everything seems to work quite nicely. Bit of a struggle getting it into the shed…but all sorted.

Anyway, I need to buy a 3MT collet chuck and collet set, along with a basic selection of cutters suitable for a newbie. But there's so much out there, I'm confusing mayself and appear to be going around in circles!

Can someone recommend something that will do the job, and where best to buy please? I've used ARC eurotrade for lathe odds and ends and found them to be pretty good.

Also, I need a good quality precision vice too…so if you have any pointers? That would be brilliant too!

Anything else I should add to the shopping list? …I've got a feeling I'm going to be living off beans for the next month or so….

Thanks.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

My engineering know-how is limited, so my initial thought of how I would attack the job is:

Sort out the morse taper in an over-sized bar, as concentric as possible.

Use a commercial MT1 blank ended arbor as a fitted support for the bar and machine the bar parallel to its morse taper.

Likely the parallel arbor might be set up on the lathe, in a collet chuck, and (eventually) the far end would be supported by a centre. It might involve turning between centres as these blank ended arbors are fairly useful in that respect.

Another thought would be to press one of These into use, if I had one… 4 jaw chuck to line everything up and go from there.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Bo'sun on 13/05/2021 17:46:37:

Thank you George, the link takes me to ARC, but it doesn't work. When I search "DRO scale" the only DRO scale seems to be a vertical one. Is that what you have?

Looks like George's link got mangled. I think he meant these, which I have too.

Although not coolant-proof they work well enough. The separate readouts are mildly inconvenient and don't do any of the clever stuff like PCD but they're streets ahead of dials.

Dave

[Brian HParticipant @brianh50089]

Posted by mechman48 on 13/05/2021 17:38:49:

I have a set of these fitted on my mill; not had any probs with them since fitting over 6 years ago, batteries last quite well too, worth considering.

**LINK**

George.

I couldn't make the LINK work.

Brian

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

I have a set of these fitted on my mill; not had any probs with them since fitting over 6 years ago, batteries last quite well too, worth considering.

**LINK**

George.

[AdrianRParticipant @adrianr18614]

I have a Sieg SX3 and recently bought a set of single flute countersinks from ArcEuroTrade.

Today I tried to use them for the first time and I am unsure if the problem I had is me, the mill or the countersink.

I was making a 14mm diameter 90-degree countersink on a 6mm hole in BMS. I selected a 16.5mm countersink, mounted it in an R8 collet and lowered the head till the cuter was just starting to shave the hole corner.

From here I calculated that I need to cut 4mm deep to achieve a 14mm countersink.

I ran the cutter at 150RPM and with plenty of cutting oil started to lower the head. It cut easily till about 2mm deep ( measured 10mm dia) It then started to get a little more difficult so I raised the speed to 300RPM. It then was cutting better to 3mm deep (measured 12mm dia) After this it did not want to go deeper, I had to give more feed to get it to start cutting again. Like I was having to drive the head down, not just lower it.

Then cut quickly to 4mm deep. But the hole diameter was only 13.5mm dia. I had to give it another 0.5mm feed and it again suddenly started cutting with a thick swarf curl. This time it took the countersink to 14.5mm dia and the finish was very rough.

I have looked at the cutter, it appears as good as new, with no sign of wear. So I am wondering is it me? Have I approached it the wrong way?

I was trying to feed it down not too slowly, probably about 0.5mm/second. But I did lift it to check the cut and re-oil.

In the end, I was defiantly getting the impression the mill was not rigid enough, the head was visibly moving side to side, and I suspect was lifting relative to the feed screw. Could it be the Z dovetail is too loose? Just how do I check the play on the Z axis?

Is single flute the wrong sort of cutter?

Any ideas?