Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

My daughter is doing research (museum related and about something from what is now Germany) into something from the early 1800s. She was reading about lines and inches used for measuring things and thought she had the number of lines per inch sorted out until I asked her which inch was being written about? She had to do some more research and found about 5 different inches and had to chose the one most likely to be the correct one for the time and area in question. So when you say a toise was equal to 6 feet I would ask how long was the foot that was being used then and there? SI units were brought about to get rid of all the various local units around Europe with a non-political scientifically derived basis.

Martin C

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

Try these

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/projects/d_wheels/dwdoc2.html

Or Google dressing resin diamond wheels plenty of options

John

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

mgi,

The very reason why I am planning to use the small steel plate on the side of the GHT toolpost, is so it can be taken off as necessary but refitted quickly.

I have an original Myford rear toolpost and a couple of small toolholders with very thin, bendy blades that create convex and concave surfaces, so all that lot put on one side. Have looked at websites for Arceuro, RDG, Chronos and Rotagrip (most likely of suppliers) but cannot find identical to what I now use, which has proved to be superior. It uses a clamp block with large tapers to match the main block, held by 3 Allen keys.

John

Edited By DMB on 28/06/2021 08:08:13

[DaggersParticipant @daggers]

Welcome to the world of model engineering, it’s always great to hear from lone modellers.

Where to start is always a difficult but nothing is impossible, many great models have been built by first time modellers.

One tip is to use metal of a known quality, this help you machine to a consistent and repeatable standard.

Do your research, GLR, Polly Models, Blackgates, Reeves all have online catalogs and ship to europe.

Youtube is a great resource “learn metal turning andrew whale” could be interesting for you, start at the oldest post and work forward. He starts with a small lathe and builds his knowledge from there.

Ask questions on the forum, no question is too basic, all questions deserve a reply.

Good luck

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Jason,

Are saying that Arc Euro have now produced Catalogue 12? (11 is my latest )

Howard

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Quite right Jason.

Page 14 of the Arc Euro Catalogue 11 is where I found the details of the backplates.,

In the section devoted to backplates suitable for the C0., with M14 x 1 thread, and 15 mm register, and the same 62 mm OD as the smaller chucks..

Page 13 lists 60 mm (62 mm OD actually ) chucks which will be suitable with 45 mm PCD for the 4 jaw independent, and 51.5 mm PCD for the 3 jaw self centering fixings, so a 62 mm backplate can be turned down to make the 43 and 55 mm registers.

The chucks can be fixed to the backplates with either M5 studs and nuts, or setscrews.

So food for thought for the OP

Howard.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Have just looked at the Arc Euro Trade website, and backplates for C0 are in stock.

They are 62 mm diameter so can be turned down to suit chucks with 55 mm register For a C0, 80 mm would probably large enough without overlading the front bearing.

There are three, one for 3 jaw, one for 4 jaw, or plain.

HTH

Howard

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Ideally, you will need both a 3 Jaw self centering chuck, and a 4 jaw independent chuck.

Self centering chucks very rarely hold work absolutely concentric.

A good 3 Jaw should hold work withing 0.005" (0.127 mm ) But the eccentricity may vary according to the diameter being held, because it depends on the accuracy of the scroll in the chuck, and the teeth on each chuck jaw..

A 3 jaw chuck will allow you to hold, round, hexagonal or triangular work.

A 4 jaw independent chuck will allow you to hold, square, rectangular, octagonal or irregular work.

It will allow round work, or bores to be centred accurately. With a finger clock and practice, it should be possible to centre work within 0.0005" (0.012 mm )

It will allow work to be machined off centre deliberately. Not too long ago, I used a 4 jaw independent chuck to ream a hole 2.5 " (63.5 mm ) off centre.

Ideal for turning eccentrics for engine valve gear!

If chucks cannot be obtained which fit directly, it will be necessary to machine a backplate for each chuck. If suitable backplates are not available, you may need to machine both sides, (Register for the flange on the Mandrel, and then the register and face for the chuck )

Not impossible jobs, by any means.

Measure the flange on your lathe and then look at the Arc Euro catalogue to see what prefinished backplates may be available. You will still need to machine the register and face to suit the particular chuck that you have

Howard

[Adam WilsonParticipant @adamwilson11917]

A little while back I acquired a SIEG/Axminster C0 at a reasonable price. I am well aware of the size limitations, and the massively improved capability of larger machines. At the time I had one job to do, and the lathe+tooling was less than the cost of sending it out, so effectively the lathe has paid for itself and is now a freebie to enjoy. I have plans to get a significantly more capable lathe when I have the floorspace for it, but for now please work with the concept of making the C0 more usable, rather than getting something more capable.

The supplied chuck is somewhat 'meh', the jaws are poorly toleranced in the casting, so whilst they grip reasonably in the middle of the range, at the extremes they like to come loose, or grab at a wonky angle. To the extent that there's a gap between the upper end of the inner jaw setting and the bottom end of the outer jaw setting that just can't reliably hold work. Not to mention to requirement of a 3rd hand to operate the tommy bar design.

I'm looking for recommendations for a replacement chuck(s), at a minimum I want a 3 or 4 jaw self centering chuck to replace the supplied one, and possibly a 4 jaw independent chuck for eccentric work. Almost all of the recommendations I am reading are to suppliers that either don't exist anymore, or no longer carry stock of the recommended part (arc euro trade springs to mind). Could anybody recommend anything still in stock, or a used part that can be reliably sourced in a usable condition.

One other option I am considering is to use the 80mm chucks recommended for the mini lathes with a custom backplate, but I have been warned that this is too large for the C0 so I am hesitant to pull the trigger until I have more opinions. Does anyone have experience of a set up like this?

[Stuart Munro 1Participant @stuartmunro1]

John,

As a life long office worker I'm still quite new to this engineering stuff so please excuse me asking something that is probably blindingly obvious.

The ARC Euro Taig Backplate comes in 3 varieties; blanc, 4 point fix and 2X3 point fix (making 6 holes in a circle).

The ER 16 Lathe Chuck Collet has a 43mm register diameter, 5mm register depth, and a 'PCD' of 51.5mm.

The 2X3 point fixing Taig Backplate has a 44mm register diameter but looks to have compatible fixing hole positions and sizes. (PCD of 51.5mm, 5.5mm clearance holes leading to 0.8mm depth on M5 thread)

So presumably the 'registering' is facing the backplate so that it is smooth. If that's the operation you refer to then it should be no problem but the ARC Euro site and your observation make me think there is more to this that I think.

Is that so?

Stuart

[Stuart Munro 1Participant @stuartmunro1]

Thanks guys – I can now see that the ARC Euro combination of Taig backplate and ER16 collet chuck are designed to fit each other. And s DC31K says, the Taig uses the same thread as Shirline – my problem solved at around £35.

Plus a selection of ER Collets!

Stuart

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Hi Duncan,

Pity, about the 1.5 mm pitch. Arc Euro do 14 x 1 backplates for Cowells /Unimat

Looks like you are in Catch 22, needing a means of holding a backplate blank, over 62 mm daimeter, so that you can bore and screwcut for the 14 mm spindle thread and register

Having bought a ER chuck on a backplate, with collets and a spanner, you are ready to "personalise" your backplate.the

As you know, your backplate is reversed to be faced and the OD turned to match that of the collet chuck, before spotting through the ER backplate to drill and tap for the fixings

It would be too much to hope that the actual ER 16 backplate would be soft enough to be bored to 12.5 mm, and screwcut to save space. Presumably clamped on to a bar set to run true in a 4 jaw

Howard,.

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

Things bought from Arc Euro will also be fine, good supportive supplier.

[Stuart Munro 1Participant @stuartmunro1]

John,

Thanks – the ARC Euro ER 16 chuck looks interesting. I already have n unused backplate that came with my lathe so its just a case of machining it to accept the ER chuck. Great idea and even cheaper than the RDG set.

I confess to being a bit unsure about 'cheap' sets anyway. Not sure of the quality although other things bought from RDG have been fine.

Stuart

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

OR you could buy a backplate to fit:

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Chucks/Lathe-Chuck-Backplates/62mm-PeatolTaig-Backplates-Steel

and an ER16 chuck:

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Lathe-Collet-Chucks/ER16-Lathe-Collet-Chuck-62mm-Dia

You would have to machine the register on the backplate to match the chuck in-situ on the spindle.

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Thanks, that is clearer. I suspect that if you drill a 3mm hole then use a bit of 3mm rod it won't give much lateral support because of play between the rod and hole. Better is to centre drill and use a standard dead or live centre.

What sort of parting tool are you using – carbide? If so I can understand having problems with plastics because they need a very sharp tool. Best grind your own from an HSS blank – you can get parting blade holders for small lathes with narrow HSS blanks from the likes of RDG or Arc. Actually I see Arc have ready-sharpened blades.

Corian is a lovely material to machine and make small components from. Find a friendly kitchen fitter who will let you raid his waste skip.

[egaParticipant @ega]

Posted by Nicholas Wheeler 1 on 16/06/2021 09:06:21:

Posted by Martin King 2 on 16/06/2021 08:08:42:

Stevie, May I please ask where you got the Bristol Clamping Levers?

Cheers, Martin

Axminster tools, Arc Euro Trade, Ebay, they're common parts available all over the place.

Agreed, but there are Bristol handles and Bristol handles. The best I have found are by Kipp, the least good those made of weak plastic and which cannot be dismantled. EE's Acute kit came with some very pretty small handles that I have not seen elsewhere; perhaps they will be imported under the new trade deal!

[Nick WheelerParticipant @nickwheeler]

Posted by Martin King 2 on 16/06/2021 08:08:42:

Stevie, May I please ask where you got the Bristol Clamping Levers?

Cheers, Martin

Axminster tools, Arc Euro Trade, Ebay, they're common parts available all over the place.

To fit the Arc eurotrade precision vice

[SteviegtrParticipant @steviegtr]

I recently fitted a Arc eurotrade precision vice to my milling machine. I decided to have a go at making a adjustable stop for it. I watched many video's on youtube. In the end i made one that i thought was best for my needs. There is also another video of anodising the part & other parts too. If you decide to watch both then i am sorry but it will be 1 1/2 hours of your life you will never get back.

Unfortunately i do not make drawings for parts i make. I talk them through on the youtube video's. Sort of ad lib. Always been like that. Brain in overdrive. Anyone deciding to watch then enjoy. I will wait to be told to grab my coat.

Steve.

Adjustable vice stop ,long video. get a cup of tea.

Colour anodising alloy parts without battery acid

[Swarf, Mostly!Participant @swarfmostly]

Posted by Jason 10/6/21

Are you snapping the collet into the nut correctly before inserting tool and doing it up?

Posted by andrew lyner on 10/06/2021 22:06:02:

SNIP!

The "snapping" could be something that I am missing. There is a slight click but nothing very impressive that I can remember.

SNIP!

Reviewing this thread, it seems to me that this important topic is being glossed over!!!!!!!!!!

My understanding is as follows: the collet should be engaged into the nut while both are OFF THE CHUCK.. Then fit the collet/nut combination onto the body of the chuck and then insert the tool and tighten the nut.

I await comment from others.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

[VicParticipant @vic]

I find the ball bearing nuts easier to use to get a good grip.

Nuts

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Are you snapping the collet into the nut correctly before inserting tool and doing it up?

Edited By JasonB on 10/06/2021 19:24:19

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Nicholas Farr on 05/06/2021 09:26:44:

Hi MichaelG, yes, but I was thinking more along the lines of this Two Part Milling Vice

.

I guessed so, Nick … it was just an opportunist post; to mention that anyone thinking of converting that ebay item might do better buying the ‘bookends’ from me

[ at less than three times the price being asked for that collection of scrap iron ]

MichaelG.

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi MichaelG, yes, but I was thinking more along the lines of this Two Part Milling Vice

Regards Nick.