Search Results for 'arc euro'

[William Harvey 1Participant @williamharvey1]

Posted by JasonB on 14/07/2021 20:43:34:

have you got the manual, should have lengths in there, if not the C2 is a similar lathe and looks like 16mm. You can always cut down a longer one.

I found the manual online and I believe the screws are shown on pg 25 item number however its says M5 x 30 which can't be right?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

have you got the manual, should have lengths in there, if not the C2 is a similar lathe and looks like 16mm. You can always cut down a longer one.

[William Harvey 1Participant @williamharvey1]

Posted by JasonB on 14/07/2021 19:43:52:

You can twist a 5mm drill bit in your fingers to mark the surface or turn a point on a bit of 5mm rod or turn down larger dia to 5mm and point that.

The tapered part of the Chronos one will sit in a 5-20mm hole but you need to make sure it is perfectly vertical. Other option is punches like these

Edited By JasonB on 14/07/2021 19:46:00

I found the same multi transfer punch on RDG but it gives a diagram on how to use it, very easy to be off centre (a bit like my manual scribing!!!)

Yes have lathe – make tool

I'll have a go at making one, no point buying a whole set, besides I want to get stuck into this at the weekend and nothing I order now will arrive in time. 6mm bolt or a bit of rod and turn it down with a point on the end.

And I thought I was doing so well

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

You can twist a 5mm drill bit in your fingers to mark the surface or turn a point on a bit of 5mm rod or turn down larger dia to 5mm and point that.

The tapered part of the Chronos one will sit in a 5-20mm hole but you need to make sure it is perfectly vertical. Other option is punches like these 

Edited By JasonB on 14/07/2021 19:46:00

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

This thread is being directed to customers / potential customers in the EU.

Recently our website http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk has been updated so that anyone arriving to it from any one of the 27 EU countries are presented with prices in Euros only, excluding U.K. VAT. The site/shopping cart takes payment in Euros only, for all customers from EU.

The prices stated are excluding VAT. Unfortunately, this still means that the postal service and couriers will charge customers a handling/facility customs entry charge along with local duties/taxes before delivering goods, as explained here on our website.

At present we understand that some of these charges may be too expensive to consider for low value orders.

To enable us to get the destination postal service and couriers handling/facility customs entry charge reduced or removed in the future, our next step is to supply goods to EU customers VAT paid, under IOSS, for goods valued up to Euros 150.00 – excluding handling, carriage and vat.

To enable us to get ready for this, I would like to invite two or three EU based customers to participate in an experiment with us, to see how the new idea could flow. Appropriate discounts will be available – by way of a thank you for participating in the experiment.

To participate in the experiment, you would need to have an order you would like to place with ARC, ideally for goods value equal to or a little above 150 Euros excluding VAT handling and carriage.

As this is an experiment, at present you will not be able to place such orders through the website.

If you would like to participate in this experiment, please pm me with your contact details in the first instance. This experiment will only be open until 25th July 2021.

Ketan at ARC

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Posted by von dutch on 14/07/2021 10:23:22:

Im fitting a quick change toolpost and the stud is different,so am going to turn up a base to press into the bottom of topslide threaded to suit new stud,

If your new toolpost came with a 10mm stud then the 7/16" diameter to fit the Myford ends up quite thin after being tapped M10 so it's usual to make a complete new stud or buy one along these lines

[Andrew TinsleyParticipant @andrewtinsley63637]

I use one to stop dust. Unfortunately a cover won't stop rust. You either need to use a dehumidifier in the workshop, or use some form of anti rust liquid on the lathe. Arc Euro do such an item amongst others.

Andrew.

[Martin BryarsParticipant @martinbryars38535]

Posted by Journeyman on 12/07/2021 16:10:25:

If you go the ER route you can happily hold drills, reamers, countersinks etc. without changing the chuck. As ER collets have a 1mm range (or imperial equivalent) all sizes of shank may be held.

John

I have 0.5mm steps for the, I think, two smallest sizes, 3.5 etc. I find it hard to get the smallest ER32 collets to hold a size over.5 mm under nominal satisfactorily.

With my old mill, I had a Clarkson chuck with metric and imperial collets. I now have a Bridgeport and use ER32 collets and have had no trouble with slippage. The same system I also use in the tailstock of my lathe and in Stevenson blocks from Arc Euro, which are very useful pieces of kit. I was worried about leaving the Clarkson system, which really is excellent, but have not found any problems in practice.

Some of my ER32 collets are from Arc, and they are OK, but most are from Cutwel, which I think are that bit better.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Imported ER 32 such as this and a set * of imperial collets, Can't think of any sets of holders and imperial collets unless you buy sets for the US market.

* will be supplied as separates so make your own storage.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by brian jones 11 on 11/07/2021 16:33:31:

…

One sound advice was – dont buy the tool sets on offer – you end up with half the bits you wont use …

So digging further I then found the EB market smothered in these set boxes, you couldnt buy individual tool holders (unless you got way up in price) not even used parts

…

I suspect a conspiracy to flood us with rubbish and fake bits

you could waste a lot of money on this. …

anyone else found this

Cock-up is far more likely than conspiracy!

Plenty of discussion on the forum about the value of sets: they don't suit everyone. Many prefer to buy individual holders as theydiscover need them. Others, including me, find it easier just to buy a set and work from that. Unfotunately sets aren't standardised in terms of holder or insert type and it can't be assumed one chosen at random will be exactly what you need, because it depends on what you're doing. The buyer has to think.

Perhaps the main disadvantage of carbide inserts is their bewildering variety. Industry need a wide choice of shapes and sizes to optimise cutting in all circumstances, and that doesn't make life simple for newbies. It may take a while for a hobbyist to find what he needs. One trick, look at the inserts and holders sold by Arc Euro because their range caters for hobbyists: if they sell it, you probably want one! Sets can include unusual tools: very useful if you need one, otherwise a waste of money.

I learned from the sets I bought. Rather than blow a gasket because some set tools didn't match my needs, I investigated their purpose – very educational, and after 5 years I've used them all.

Fakes are always a possibility – don't buy too cheap, and beware of 'bargains'. On internet sites it's difficult to tell the difference between genuine bargains because they're production overrun or bankupt stock, and counterfeits. In my experience, most Far Eastern stuff is satisfactorily mid-range and value for money. But I prefer to buy from UK vendors because there's less bother if a purchase goes wrong: consumer prrotection.

Can't be assumed products are all wonderful, or all rubbish. Country of origin is almost meaningless as a guide because manufacturing is globalised. Brand-names aren't solid either. The best you can do is buy from reputable suppliers.

Dave

[VicParticipant @vic]

Posted by brian jones 11 on 11/07/2021 18:29:57:

this was the link from another member

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Lathe-Turning-Tools-Indexable/ARC-Indexable-Turning-Tools/SLTBN-Part-Off-Blade-Tool-Blocks-with-Part-Off-Blade

this was the bewildering link from apt

https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/lathe-turning-tools-apt.html

no way to select shank size all seemed to be 20mm+

i dont know how to get to your page

You select the type of tool you want then the size options are available.

[brian jones 11Participant @brianjones11]

this was the link from another member

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Lathe-Turning-Tools-Indexable/ARC-Indexable-Turning-Tools/SLTBN-Part-Off-Blade-Tool-Blocks-with-Part-Off-Blade

this was the bewildering link from apt

https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/lathe-turning-tools-apt.html

no way to select shank size all seemed to be 20mm+

i dont know how to get to your page

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Posted by brian jones 11 on 11/07/2021 17:47:47:

OK Pete I got the site noted but not for small boys who need 8 10 12 mm shanks

thnx Dave, following that up with Arceurotrade, I assume that gtin 19-2 means a 2mm wide tip, they dont say this

 

2.2mm actual cut width as detailed here on ARC's site

APT do holders down to 6mm square if you look. Typical 6mm here

 

Edited By JasonB on 11/07/2021 18:15:51

[brian jones 11Participant @brianjones11]

OK Pete I got the site noted but not for small boys who need 8 10 12 mm shanks

 

thnx Dave, following that up with Arceurotrade, I assume that gtin 19-2 means a 2mm wide tip, they dont say this

Edited By brian jones 11 on 11/07/2021 17:59:11

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The biggest problems with holding a boring bar in the tailstock chuck is that you can't adjust the size and the hand feed does not lend itself well to a nice smooth bore.

Most of the time a round, square or round with flats shank boring bar is held in the toolpost so you can use the lathe's power feed to make the cut along the bore and the cross slide to put on a cut.

The tools you link to would generally be use din a boring head and be used in the mill. If using HSS then something like these though you may not find a use for all of the ones in the set for some time, other suppliers do singles. Or you could go for an insert type such as these .

4mm is a bit small for general work, 6mm would be a minimum but depends on the size of hole being bored. Generally you don't want to go much deeper than 4-5 x diameter of shank

[William Harvey 1Participant @williamharvey1]

Posted by William Harvey 1 on 10/07/2021 12:42:16:

Hi,

Quick question about boring. Being a complete novice I though boring was done using a round boring tool mounted in a Tail Post Chuck, but when looking for tooling, most results showed square HSS tools mounted in a Tool Post turned to face the end of the work piece.

Can you use both methods?

Should I buy round tools and use the chuck and also get some round tool square holders to also use in the tool post?

And for the Warco WM 180 would a 4 or 6mm be best?

Thanks

Sorry – I have just realised that using a chuck in the Tails Stock is a complete waist of time as it would not work!!!

[William Harvey 1Participant @williamharvey1]

Hi,

Quick question about boring. Being a complete novice I though boring was done using a round boring tool mounted in a Tail Post Chuck, but when looking for tooling, most results showed square HSS tools mounted in a Tool Post turned to face the end of the work piece.

Can you use both methods?

Should I buy round tools and use the chuck and also get some round tool square holders to also use in the tool post?

And for the Warco WM 180 would a 4 or 6mm be best?

Thanks

[William Harvey 1Participant @williamharvey1]

So I have been watching the BlondiHacks tutorial on parting and have read through this thread. I am considering some HSS Parting Tools. I have this QCTP set, which comes with a 250-007 Parting Tool Holder.

The only info I can find on the tool bit is here which suggests a 1/2" parting blade.

The BlondiHacks video I have been watching, recommends a 'T' profiled parting blade, but they don't seem to be available in the UK, so I will be looking for a 'V' shaped tool.

For the 250-007 Tool Holder will the 060-060-04105 (1.5mm x 13mm x 85mm) as sold by ARC Eurotrade be the correct fit? But these looked to be non profiled.

What about these, also from ARC Eurotrade, the 13mm ones?

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi Mario, if your two dead centres are both 1MT, one may be a hard one, which you would use in the tailstock for supporting long items and the other one maybe a soft one, which you would use in the headstock spindle when turning between centres and it is normal for this to be trued up with a light cut each time you use it and that way you can be sure it is running as true as you will get it. You will of course have to remove the chuck to get to the Morse taper in the spindle and a catch plate would be required in place of the chuck, to drive the workpiece with a lathe dog, i.e. similar to these Lathe Dog A catch plate is just a flat plate that screws on in place of the chuck with a slot or a pin that catches the lathe dog, those in the link would have the right angled part sitting in the catch plate slot.

Howard has explained it already, but on these lathes, both the spindle taper and the tailstock taper are 1MT.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 08/07/2021 15:55:02

[Mark ReaParticipant @markrea67084]

Hi all. I shouldn't have done it I know, but I went ahead and bought myself an SC3 lathe from Arc Eurotrade and am very very impressed with it. I am also surprised how much I use it.

But now I am thinking of a small milling machine, I knew it would happen and I shouldn't have started with with machining in the first place. Anyhow I am looking at either an SX2 or an SX2.7 from Arc Eurotrade.

It looks to me as the SX2 is a drilling machine with milling capabilities whereas the 2.7 is more of a small hobby mill. Bearing in mind the difference in price I am trying to justify to myself the extra for the 2.7

Any advice from anyone who has experience of these machines would be invaluable. The work I envisage would be predominately drilling as my bench drill would go to make room. Most of what I do on there would be smallish parts for custom motorcycles I build and I can see myself getting into stationary engines as I get into retirement .

I did use this forum for advice and help when buying the lathe and the breadth of knowledge and advice was staggering. I want to stick with Arc Eurotrade as a supplier as I am so impressed by the service I received with the lathe. Thanks in advance for any replies.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

My advice is to ditch the QCTP and oversized shanks for the time being. Learn to use the lathe with the standard 4-way tool-post and buy a set of tools to fit it and arrange to height with shims. Keep it simple. Although 12mm tools are common, it's not difficult to find smaller sizes. Have a look at ArcEuro; although Ketan doesn't sell sets (I think), he does individual holders in 6, 8, 10, 12 and 16mm. Rather helpfully, Ketan's web site also identifies the inserts that fit the holders, removing another aggravation.

Exactly why is it necessary to fit a QTCP? Their advantage is fast tool changes and easy height setting without shims, which is particularly useful with HSS cutters. Indexed holders with pre-set shims are almost as fast, and hobbyists rarely work against the clock. I don't care if it takes a couple of minutes to shim a re-sharpened HSS cutter to height. An experienced machinist, who works rapidly with HSS has good reason for fitting a QCTP, but that's not me. Risky to buy a QTCP and shanks to fit a lathe before understanding the tool-height requirements.

Faced with this sort of problem, I think it's better to cut ones losses and go back to basics. Buy tools that fit rather than modify holders, or even worse, hack into the lathe itself.

Beginners have a lot to learn and there is no shame in making mistakes. But a good deal of trouble can be avoided by buying a few books and learning the ropes with a few simple projects before rushing to fit accessories and make changes. I recommend books rather than Internet videos because it's difficult to tell the difference between a twit who is good at making videos, and competent machinists who bumble in front of a camera. Quite a lot of fun to be had on the forum by pointing out bad-practice found on youtube.

In the absence of learning and experience problems are likely to spiral due to poor technique. I wonder how many lose interest in hobby machining due to making a false start? (I came close myself.) For example, Brian mentioned 'fixing' his problem by milling with a Jacob's chuck, which is a classic way of spoiling work. It's almost bound to end in disappointment and a misplaced rant about the quality of Chinese tools. In the early stages best to avoid tricky stuff like milling the unknown steel of a tool-holder with a floppy chuck. (Warning: lots of metals don't machine well! Don't imagine a lathe or milling machine will cut anything made of metal.)

Doesn't take long to get a feel for machining and materials. Apprentices have the advantage of starting with tools in good order, cutting metal that machines reasonably well, with an experienced mentor offering robust advice! Takes longer to teach oneself and mistakes will be made – don't rush it. Think months rather than hours. Three sources of error: machine out of order, poor choice of material, and the operator. At first, the operator is chief suspect when stuff goes wrong, especially when a novice accidentally gets into deep water.

Dave

 

 

 

 

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 07/07/2021 09:33:48

[Douglas JohnstonParticipant @douglasjohnston98463]

Arc Euro have a kit for this ( I bought mine ages ago so I hope they still have them ).

Doug

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Hopefully, Warco, or Chester may still stock any gear that is missing.

Having a Norton box, you won't need as many changewheels.

My lathe has a Norton box giving 48 possibilities and the changed from Imperial to Metric usually requires just a 120 /127T idler to be moved. For some metric pitches the normal 40T input gear has to be changed to a 32T.

If you take the measurements of some of your changewheels, you MAY find some from another machinje that can be adapted, possibly by boring out or bushing the centre or modifying the keyway, (Either widening and deepening the current one, or cutting a second, narrower and shallower keyway on the opposite side of the bore.

(See below, to find the Module, and what Arc Euro, or Axminster could offer as spares for say, a Sieg C6 lathe.

My lathe also came with a spare 30T gear, which when used to replace, fortunately, the standard 40T as the first driver in the train, allowed a 4 mm pitch to be cut..

Wanting to halve the standard finest feed rate.0.0047" (0.120 mm) and having a Rotary Table and Dividing plates, I bought a 1.25 Mod cutter and made a 80T for the input gear to the Norton box, In my case, this required relocating the fastening for the gear cover. A 20T first driver would have been too small over the shaft.

Presumably you already know how to find the Module of the gears?

If not: Measure OD, Count teeth, Add 2, and divide that number by the OD.

Thus a 1 Module 60T gear will be 62 mm diameter. A 1.5 Module 60T gear would be 93 mm diameter.

Ivan Law's book "Gears and Gear Cutting", No.17 in the Workshop Practice Series is a useful aid when you start cutting gears.

HTH

Howard

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

Martyn,

It sounds to me like you were unlucky and bought a duff one. I bought my first lathe when I was living in France. I bought a bench top mill from Amadeal and picked it up in person on a trip back to the UK, along with some other goodies, including an axial centring device. As far as I recall, there was no plastic ring involved and it worked straight out of the box. I'm still using it today in my Warco VMC mill and have to admit that there is a certain amount of jiggery-pokery needed when setting up the probe – but that is to be expected. You should be able to alter the angle of dangle of the probe mounting to apply a little pressure to the device once roughly centred by eye. The securing screw and nut are pretty small, of course, so use a well-fitting spanner on the nut (Amadeal state that a spanner is included) and go carefully. No gorilla tactics required.

I see Amadeal are still offering the centring indicator for £62.50, so no need to splash out 200 Euros.

No connection with either Amadeal or Warco other than having been a satisfied customer of both.

John

 

Edited By John Hinkley on 03/07/2021 09:53:46

Edited By John Hinkley on 03/07/2021 09:54:37

[SteviegtrParticipant @steviegtr]

I still think the Tom Senior is better than the mills mentioned. If you can find a light vertical in good nick i would go for it. The one i originally wanted was the Seig sx3.5 with all the bells & whistles, But ARC eurotrade was not ready to sell me one . So i went for a UK made machine.

Steve.