Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Nick Clarke 3Participant @nickclarke3]

I use a radial milling vice from Arc Euro (sometimes without the rotating base) and often one of the small precision vices – The question is frequently how much headroom there is there on a small milling machine as against holding capacity – you may need to clamp to the table directly.

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

Derek,

You could do an awful lot worse than the offering from ArcEuroTrade. I'd suggest the 100mm one would suffice for your needs. SEE THE AD, HERE.

I have one and it is very good, in my opinion. I originally bought the 160mm one, but when it arrived, I could only just lift it onto mill table, where it dwarfed everything. (Mill is a Warco VMC, so not that small.) I sped up the M1 and swapped it for the smaller one.

As others have said before, I would forget about one with a swivel base. I will bet you will never use it and it takes up a lot of airspace.

John

[Curtis RutterParticipant @curtisrutter61973]

I’m looking at purchasing the Sieg SX2P mill but want to mount it on my current workbench, looking at the workbench that’s available from Arc Euro I’m wondering if what I already have will be strong enough.

Unfortuantely the user manual for the bench/drawers doesn’t give any information on load capacity.

 

This is the worktop/bench in question, was thinking it would be mounted on the worktop in between the 7 drawer and larger cupboard so would have the main support underneath from both cupboards. The Sieg weighs in at approx 70kg and I’m 80kg and have stood on it to reach something on top and no flexi on but obviously long term I’m unsure

 

Edited By Curtis Rutter on 07/08/2021 14:58:55

Edited By Curtis Rutter on 07/08/2021 15:05:00

Edited By Curtis Rutter on 07/08/2021 15:06:45

[Graham Williams 11Participant @grahamwilliams11]

Well I think it's been mentioned on occasions before but was moved to post again. Ordered at 1400hrs Friday, post just delivered at 1200 hrs Saturday. Exceptional service by the PO and especially ArcEuro. Well done. GW

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

See here

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Brian,

I have a 290 type lathe that is nearly 10 years old, so far I have had no problems. It is similar to this one, but no DRO, they have both smaller and larger lathes (all though they may be out of stock). A 280/290 lathe can be moved by a couple of strong men. Another option is to try and find a second hand European made lathe in good condition, will probably be heavier so not so easily moved.

Thor

Edited By Thor on 06/08/2021 05:41:56

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

You have picked a fortunate size of thread to practice on, at least you can easily see what is going on. If you can produce both male and female threads yourself, they can be whatever you like. When I modified a Tom Senior mill spindle to change it from MT2 to R8, using a bottom half from Arc Eurotrade and the original top half from the mill, I screwed them together with a thread that was no particular size, but the dimensions were worked out from the thread depth according to the pitch selected.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Michael Brett 1 on 03/08/2021 17:26:08:

More problems

I purchased a SX2P mill from Arc Eurotrade along with a 80 mm radial milling vice which was recommended for this machine . However when it came to fitting the vice..

All seems very strange when they are supposed to be compatible .

Has anyone else come across this problem…

Mike

Not sure if it helps beginners to know that machine tools aren't standardised rigorously in the sense that accessories will always just fit. Some machines will only take add-ons specifically made for them. Most will take a wider choice, but don't be surprised to find differences between US English measure and British Imperial gear, machines made in different metric countries, and different models made by the same manufacturer. They can usually be fettled.

An 80mm vice is about the right capacity for an SX2P, but it sounds as if details stop it being fitted to the mill out of the box. Same thing has happened to me twice, but both were fixed by swapping bolts and making some T-nuts. Neither operation would make me blink today now I've built up a collection of bolts, have the wherewithal to hold metal on the table, and own a decent junk box. Much more annoying in the early days, when the workshop is empty apart from a new mill! Best advice is to persist; it's very satisfying and educational to fix problems like this yourself. Clamping direct to the table is a valuable skill, and making T-nuts is a good beginner challenge – neither too easy or too hard. Vital to train the operator, and asking the forum is another skill worth having.

Crack on, it's all part of the fun. A big advantage of owning a lathe and mill is you can alter and adapt metal objects to fit.

Dave

[Michael Brett 1Participant @michaelbrett1]

More problems

I purchased a SX2P mill from Arc Eurotrade along with a 80 mm radial milling vice which was recommended for this machine . However when it came to fitting the vice the bolts supplied are 10 mm while the slots on the table are 8 mm.

Also the guide blocks on the vice are 14 mm so cannot be used in the 8 mm slots on the table.

All seems very strange when they are supposed to be compatible .

Has anyone else come across this problem and managed to find a solution.

Mike

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

These can be very handy. Once one fixing is in place the others can be systematically marked, spotted and drilled.

Best to mark orientation of parts, particularly if not using a DRO – otherwise larger clearance holes may be required.

Transfer punches do not need to be purchased – the few needed at the time are easily made – but a whole set, suitably hardened is the easy way out.🙂

[peak4Participant @peak4]

Posted by William Ayerst on 01/08/2021 20:54:11:

Also, after trying to eyeball the centre of a piece of square bar with scribe marks and a needle-point wiggler and failing three times in a row to find the actual centre, I may be starting to understand the push towards a DRO …

You could try one of these to be going on with.
Dearer options such as Starrett etc. are available too, if you have money burning a hole in your pocket.
https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/catalogue/results.aspx?search=centre+finder

Bill

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Welcome PJ!

One of your first decisions is :

To be functional, or totally prototypical?

If purely functional, a belt cover can be fabricated from sheet steel or Aluminium.

Replacement handwheels are available from various suppliers to the Model Engineering trade. (Arc Euro Trade, RDG etc ) But will probably need modification to fit the shafts on your machine. (Either boring out or bushing – for which you will need a lathe )

Replacement pulleys will also be available, The name Picador springs to mind.

Machine mart only offer twin groove pulleys. You may need three or four groove. And the new pulleys may need the belt section to be changed. Check on Google.

Howard

[S.D.L.Participant @s-d-l]

Posted by William Ayerst on 27/07/2021 14:05:10:

Righto – good to know – when I said 'take it gentle', I meant with removing the tools with a (brass faced) mallet via the threaded rod drawbar, as opposed to just twisting a self-ejecting one. I'll look into some wedges – like a pry bar?

Thank you for the tips re: tanged vs threaded arbors. If I could find a compatible JT6 taper MT2 arbor with a 3/8" drawbar thread I would. I'll keep an eye out for one, but good to know I can do without.

I would just get the Arc Euro MT to J6 and make a drawbar from M10 threaded rod. I have mm whit and UNC in two sizes of drawbars for mine as if I see tooling at a good price a Drawbar is cheaper than some other tooling.

Steve Larner

[Dr_GMJNParticipant @dr_gmjn]

I fitted the cheap ones from ArcEuro. The backlash in the slides makes these pretty invaluable; there’s no way I could do much more than the most basic drilling and milling without them. Lots of drilling and tapping and making brackets, but nothing too difficult:

X:

Y:

Z:

And some aluminium covers and 3D printed end caps:

Readouts were mounted to some MDF, and I used an ancient Eastman Kodak camera ball and socket mount so I can position them for best viewing angle. Glad I kept that mount…

I’ve since tidied the cables up a bit more.

They’ve been on since about last April, and have seen a fair amount of use. Despite frequently getting spattered with oil and swarf, they’ve been absolutely fine.

[andrew lynerParticipant @andrewlyner71257]

I'm fed up with trying to count the marks on the scales on the wheels of my Sealey 2502 and the temptation to everything 'by eye' is great!!! So I am getting three of the fairly cheap magnetic DRO scales with remote display that Arc Euro sell.

The 2502 is more or less the same as the Seig models and the Arc Euro parts seem to be the right sort of size to nestle in, out of the way. But I have a slight dilemma which anyone who's done the same installation would probably have an answer for.

The short one I have bought fits the X axis with no problem or modifications and a long enough one (Z) will fit the vertical column in a position just behind the operating lever with a bit of a spacer involved. In both those case, the scales will be stationary.

However, the Y scale is the right size to screw onto the Y table and the slider will need to be fixed, somewhere on the left end (away from the wheel end). Afaics, the scale will fit in without limiting the X movement as long as the slider is out of the way. But that only works with the concertina swarf guard removed. That rubber stuff actually gets in the way, even on its own..

So it seems that I need an alternative sort of swarf guard apron thingey. It's all a bit cramped round the back and things should really be kept below the level of the table to clear my milling visa when it's there. What would do the job is a guard that's fixed to the moving table, rather than the present arrangement that's fixed to the column – as normal.

A few photos would help me a lot – plus any comments about how well or badly your various systems behave. It would make me very grateful.

P.S. I should add that there are a number of videos which show people mounting DRO on a minimill but none of them seem to mention the problem of restricting the cross axis movement due to the DRO scale. IT's only 100mm to start with and ten or fifteen mm lost if you want to protect the dry from being squashed, that's a pain in the X axis.

Edited By andrew lyner on 28/07/2021 15:20:08

[Martin KyteParticipant @martinkyte99762]

I know there is a desire to see nice shiny surfaces but I wonder how unserviceable your surface plates actually are. Have a go at removing the corrosion chemically (Arc Euro do stuff for this) and then check one plate against the other. Once they are cleaned up I would be surprised if they are in any way unfit for service.

Incidentally does anyone use a wax on their surface plates to reduce friction and protect from corrosion?

regards Martin

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by William Harvey 1 on 14/07/2021 19:59:20:

I found the same multi transfer punch on RDG but it gives a diagram on how to use it, very easy to be off centre (a bit like my manual scribing!!!)

[…]

And I thought I was doing so well

.

I hope Ketan, at ARC, is not offended

MichaelG.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

William, if you want to use the toolpost then a 10mm dia bar will be about the largest you could use without cutting flats onto it, you can make or buy these blocks which the round tool fits into and then the whole lot goes into the toolpost.

Alternatively similar blocks can be used but clamped directly to the topslide with suitable packing which should allow you to get upto about 22mm dia.

Similar to Clive's photo you could make a holder like the one shown in this video ( scaled down a bit)or look up the "Gibraltar" type toolpost which replaces the top slide and gives a more rigid setup.

[S.D.L.Participant @s-d-l]

B16 is one of a series of European Tapers used on chucks if you search MT3 B16 in Google you should see lots of possible suppliers, I have used Amazon in the past.

Steve

[Keith HaleParticipant @keithhale68713]

Hi Stueeee

Probably every model engineer in the country would like to be able to buy some cadmium bearing silver solder.

I've been unsuccessful when trying to find your source with a simple google search. What do you type into google?

Why doesn't your supplier advertise it? It's a shoe-in that he will shift his stock very quickly. In the last 2 weeks before its sale was banned, I sold 40 kg – 4800 rods. Average monthly sales to the model engineer was 10 kg

I would like a quotation for all his stock because there is not a manufacturer in Europe. Johnson Matthey "the Easi-flo people" have, in the past, been very jealous of their trade name. Want to see the file? I believe they have relinquished their trade name

Assuming there is provenance, he provides an invoice and bank details, I am prepared to buy all his stock NOW.

Don't be coy. Send me a personal message. I don't want the rest of the world, including HSE and Trading Standards, to know.

Who is the supplier?

You will be doing him an enormous favour.

Who knows, there might be a nice little earner in it for you.

Keith

PS Sadly I do not expect any response, a feeling, I'm sure, that will be shared by the aforementioned bodies because when I know, they will.

PPS SELLING THE STUFF IS ILLEGAL

[Tony JacksonParticipant @tonyjackson55731]

Hi Speedy,

I have friends who bitterly regret(ted) returning to the UK.

You will loose your winter fuel allowance (if you get it) as France with winter temps of -16 C is too warm !!

Currency fluctuations

Most official applications are now via the internet – make sure you have a reasonably up to date computer and where you settle has reasonable Internet speed.

Temperature here never gets below -5 afaik, and I've time and experience to insulate my new home seriously, and to install a big heat pump!

As to currency, I presume, as do most people here, that the value of the pound will sooner or later collapse. So I'm going to have to be earning a living of some sort in my eighties!

While the government believes that we can all do everything on the internet, they are mistaken. II arranged a meeting with my local tax people (they come to the village once a week) concerning a form which had been sent to me in the post. Not very many of its questions needed answering, but a few did, and there was no way I could answer them truthfully. E.g. home much did you pay for your house? Well I bought a single property, which was a house and some stables, above which there was the remains of an apartment. I paid for them as a single lot, and set about making hte apartment habitable, so I could move in there while work was done on the house. The revenue insisted that I now owned two properties, which I think was a bit unfair, but with only one life to live not worth trying to correct.

The lady from the Impôts said "Oh, don't worry about that, we don't care what you paid for it." The next question was "When will the work be finished". "Oh, just put next year. They'll send this form every six months, you can throw it away until yoou are ready". (Something I'd not felt able to do hitherto because the form proposed thousands of Euros of fine and possible imprisonment if I didn't get it back to them within 30 days).

I have a 9-month old MacBook Air, and my fibre internet connection runs at 70 Mb/s down, 23 Mb/s up today. Not as fast as I was promised, but adequate, given that it has only once gone off for a few hours.

I would pass on, however, that the internet here seems to me exceptionally full of parasites. Firms promising to tell you of the "ten best plasterers in your area", but actually only sending details of the luckless dupes who've been conned into paying up for the privilege of being listed, even if they a hundreds of km away. Very few firms seem to have their own sites, so the only hope is to try and find quangos whose advice is at least moderately trustworthy. I was given four names of 'experts' who could prepare an official "Étude thermique:" for me, as my heating firm had asked. One didn't answer the phone, had no 'répondeur', no email address. One never replied, another, a one-man band, came round and gave me a quote 50% greater than I'd already got from a big firm a bit further away, plus he attempted to persuade me of a bunch of things I knew to be incorrect. The fourth, who did respond, following a recommendation from a local architect, needed at least three prompts before he would reply to anything (and I discovered that his office had the same address as our man with the nonsense answers (who did at least visit!).

So while it is useful to have a good internet connection, it needs using carefully and appropriately. E.g. I've ordered an MT1 spigot for a drill chuck for the Britannia via Amazon.fr, and some cup-oilers from Ebay recently.

Best, T.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

I have two large(ish) ‘green grit’ wheels. One, purchased at HIS in Inverness, is very green in colour, while the other (more recently) from ArcEuroTrade is definitely much darker in colour – certainly not green, as I see it.

The first was bought for a bench grinder (20mm bore) and the second for my surface grinder (any standard size to 1 1/4&rdquo.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Am just updating my, basic, Tom Tom.

For a time, having said "Searching for updates", the PC then said "Device not responding" (Repeatedly! )

After several attempts, managed to download the two smaller updates.

The third large one for Europe, including UK refused for well over an hour "Device not responding. Try reconnecting your device"

Suddenly, almost instantaneous "Updating". (ONLY takes 50 minutes of "Updating your device"  )

How else would I have spent the last 3 hours?

Which do I prefer, electronics or mechanical devices?

Send answers on a £50 note!

Howard  EMOJIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Edited By Howard Lewis on 17/07/2021 14:30:59

Edited By Howard Lewis on 17/07/2021 14:31:32

[William Harvey 1Participant @williamharvey1]

Posted by JasonB on 14/07/2021 20:43:34:

have you got the manual, should have lengths in there, if not the C2 is a similar lathe and looks like 16mm. You can always cut down a longer one.

I found the manual online and I believe the screws are shown on pg 25 item number however its says M5 x 30 which can't be right?