Search Results for 'arc euro'

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

If you are happy to rework the Myford Stud then is the large dia at the end of the original stud small enough to enter the hole in your chuck?

If so hold by the existing 7/16" (11.1mm) shank with the large dia behind the chuck jaws, turn some down to 10mm and thread, also add a ctr drill hole in the end.

Now grip by the large dia in the 3 jaw and using tailstock support turn the remaining length down to 10mm to just below where the top surfaceof the top slide comes.

You will then have a stud that looks like the one ARC sell

Edited By JasonB on 27/02/2023 12:31:41

[Rick HannParticipant @rickhann79631]

Posted by Dougie Swan on 21/02/2023 17:59:27:

Thanks

Where is the sampler pack available from

Dougie

I bought mine years ago from McMaster-Carr. There was a discussion a while back and if I remember correctly, it was hard to find in Europe and expensive. Probably not worth it for one or two jobs. I have built numerous engines over the years and I would not be without it. Still have 50% of it left. A Google search should turn something up if you are still interested. Rick

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Don't recognise the lathe, so can be of limited help.

If the lathe is British and 70 -80 years old, everything is likely to be Imperial, so metric dimensions will bbe non integer. Better to measure in Inches.

The threads are very likely to be BSW and BSF, possibly with BA used for the gib strip adjusters.

As a completer newbie, you need to buy and study some books, to learn the nomenclature of the parts..

"Basic Lathework" , by Stan Bray, "Lathework" by Harold Hall, "The Amateur's lathe" by L H Sparey, "Lathework" by Neil Wyatt, would all be contenders.

Ian Bradley's "The Amateur's Workshop" might be a useful book to have also.

You should find a set of Zeus Charts very useful (Still using mine from 1948! ).

As you progress, you will find "Model Engineer's handbook" by Tubal cain a useful reference book, since it cover many aspects.

If you have a complete set of changewheels for the lathe, you would find "screwcutting in the lathe" by Martin Cleeve.

Many of these are in the Workshop Practice Series. (One place where you could buy them would be Arc EuroTrade, or some of the other model engineering suppliers )

If you can find a local Model Engineering Society, do joiun it. You will find folk there who can help ypou.

Where are you located?

Maybe someone near could give first hand advice and help. Hnads on denonstration and guidance will be invaluable.

Reading Model Engineering magazines will also help.

Here comes a shameless plug!

The March issue of Model Engineers' Workshop contains part 1 of "Notes for Newbies" which may help you.

(It includes a poor picture naming the variousn parts of a lathe )

Presumably April will contain part 2.

Do not rush. Become familiar with the lathe, and what you can do with it. Once you grasp the most basics, you can learn by just making swarf. Then, you progress to making small tools. Not only will you learn, but they will be useful in the future.

You will need to make extra purchases, such as a digital calliper (As your first piece of measuring equipment ) and a bench grinder to grind High Speed tools. (A lathe of that age will not really be suitable for carbide tools. )

Before too long you will need Drill, and then very probably Taps and Dies (There is a book in the W P S about using those )

You have a very useful and versatile machine. With it you can do MANY things, and you will have many bnhours, years, of pleasure.

H T H

Howard

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Michael Belcher on 23/02/2023 08:03:17:

Thanks to your valued feedback I am getting the impression that this lathe has a Jarno taper and not a Morse.

If that is the case I have a couple of questions.

Is tooling this lathe going to be difficult, MT seems to be plentiful but I have not come across Jarno very often?

If it is difficult to get tooling is it possible, practical, desirable to change the tail stock to accept more readily available parts?

thanks

Mickb

Don't jump too quickly to conclusions because tapers are difficult to measure. Although it might be Jarno, MT0 is more likely. Can easily be tested by buying an MT0 dead centre, this example just under £5.

Don't push the taper hard into the socket without understanding how to remove it! Some tailstocks have a hole through the spindle allowing the taper to tapped out with a rod. More common is an arrangement where winding the handle back pushes the rear of the taper forwards: this type depends on taper being the right length, and/or, fitted with a tang. It may be necessary to reduce the length of a taper.

If it is Jarno, it's true that tooling is harder to source and expensive, but you may not need much of it. Almost all my tailstock requirements are met with two tools: a drill chuck, and a live centre. Also possible to make tapers with the lathe; not a beginner job, so later on.

I think the missing banjo and gears are the biggest problem. The banjo and gears have to fit, and the set of gears have to have to right number of teeth needed to cut threads. I recommend 'Gearing of Lathes for Screwcutting' by Brian Wood (who is active on the forum.) An Electronic Lead Screw might be an alternative.

On the subject of books, Sparey's "The Amateur's Lathe" is my favourite, it's only fault being he wrote it before DROs and carbide inserts etc.

Could you post a photo of the lower bed and feet please? The underneath is often more distinctive than the more-or-less similar gubbins on top, examples from lathes.co.uk:

Dave

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

Me, again. After a brief, unsuccessful, search for B & S on lathes.co.uk, I tried again with South Bend. Your lathe bears more than a passing resemblance to the South Bend 8-inch Junior lathe. Main difference that I can see are the maker's name on the bed and mounting feet (can't see your lathe's). This might suggest it could be a clone made in Europe?

John

 

Edited By John Hinkley on 22/02/2023 10:31:44

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Jelly on 18/02/2023 23:27:14:

Posted by andrew lyner on 18/02/2023 23:02:59:

I guess a tool with a reliable supply of inserts will be pricy and I'll just have to suck that up. The whole business of indexable seems a bit arcane for the beginner.

It's somewhat arcane full stop due to the sheer number of variations developed to cover the full variety of use cases.

…

This said, if you take care to purchase tooling which takes widely used and available inserts, it shouldn't work out expensive.

Especially if you get something for which generic inserts are available from the likes of APT, rather than being tied to a Branded supplier.

Exactly so. Industry have to optimise cutting in a way totally foreign to my workshop, where good results are got from slow traditional methods and experimental fumbling. Production machines do the same job repeatedly, and it's well worth fitting them with the ideal insert for the job because a 1% saving on a £1M production run is £10000!

Home workshops are much more general purpose and fitting a specialist carbide insert to our equipment is likely to be counter-productive. The insert is probably designed to cut a particular material at a higher RPM, feed-rate and depth of cut than a small manual lathe can manage. There's a high chance of a mismatch between what we cut and what the insert is race-tuned to do.

Fortunately, there's an easy way out for beginners. Proceed to the ArcEuroTrade website and look at the limited range of inserts they sell to hobbyists. (Other suppliers available.) The range are a good match for general-purpose work on hobby machines. A further trick is to use the sharp type for Non-ferrous metals on steel. It happens that the edge optimised for high-speed industrial cutting of Aluminium is also well suited to cutting steel at hobby rates.

I bought a set of carbide tooling with my big lathe and was very disappointed in them at first. Turns out they're very good for heavy cutting in steel, but poor at taking light cuts. As most of my machining involves light to moderate cuts, I only use the set for roughing out. Most of the time smaller sharper inserts are a much better match to what I do.

Not sure it's a good idea for beginners to wander the internet looking for cheap carbide inserts. Yes there are bargains, but it's easy to buy the wrong sort. Proprietary inserts requiring special holders,, inserts that fit obsolete holders, and above all inserts designed for a narrow range of specialist industrial cutting that won't work well on a mini-lathe! Bargains are easier to spot when the buyer knows what to look for!

Dave

[Henry BrownParticipant @henrybrown95529]

Looks like a simpler version of my Axminster SX4 at first glance.
I've had the SX4 for a couple of years now and generally I'm am pleased with it after Axminster got their act todether and replaced the first one I had and sorted the second one out. I tend to do larger stuff so the usual choice on here from Arceuro wasn't big enough, maybe that's why you didn't get much response…

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

The link between railways and the widths of 'osses' botts is probably just legend though Standard Gauge is certainly an odd value. Really though any system of measurement is arbitrary.

The French tried to be clever by basing the Metre on a fraction of the Earth's circumference as well as they could measure it at the time; but really it's as artificial as the Yard only about 3 inches shorter.

They invented the Metric System though to end their own country's chaotic jumble of regional and trade units, far worse than the sometimes-ridiculed Imperial system.

I don't think plate tectonics in a mere two or three hundred years would have modified the overland survey to determine the Metre. The NW European Continental Plate is drifting NE at about 25mm/y (mean speed) but despite slow crustal subsidence of the Straits of Dover region and the much slower closing of the Mediterranean Sea, I don't think it would have warping between Dunkirk and Barcelona enough to have affected the work. Measurement errors would be far more important.

I believe it has though moved the Greenwich Meridian marker-line away from the 0º noon!

I do wonder why they didn't use the Nautical Mile as the Km though, as that is circumferentially based – apart of course from being used by the Old Enemy!

SI still uses the Metric System for its basic, everyday units but then tries to be too clever in turn, inventing things that are ever so neat arithmetically but not a deal of use outside the physics laboratory. Then muddles it further by naming compound units like the Newton and Pascal after famous scientists, to shorten the text but baffle dimensional analysis.

You need a lot of Pascals in even a Roundhouse model loco boiler, or your car tyres! Daft thing is, the ISO make the Pascal far too small for engineering but Nature makes if far too big for acoustics: sound counts in µPa – millionths of 'em! Then logarithmifies a multiple of the count, to make deciBels.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

A bit of research reveals a more complicated story going back several years.

Part of the problem is that these events are free to view, making it difficult for organisers to raise the money needed to cover costs. They've been subsidised by the public sector, and as a taxpayer, I'm against funding freebies for motorcycle fans when nurses are being asked to pay for inflation.

Motorcycling Ireland also blames Brexit: previously the event was insured by a European firm, who withdrew. (Since Brexit significant numbers of European firms have chosen not to do UK business because they can make money elsewhere without having to do a lot of border paperwork.)

Unfortunately, after they withdrew, Motorcycling Ireland were unable to find anyone prepared to take the risk of insuring Irish events. (Usual cause of insurance companies refusing business is a bad accident record. Have any recent motorcycling events resulted in any big claims?)

Seems to have moved on since then, but the lowest quote received was £400,000, which was too much for the clubs.

I think it quite right that bystanders injured by crashing motor cyclists should be recompensed. If I'm hurt or my property is damaged, I expect someone to be held responsible. Big payouts and prison for negligence or wrong doing.

It's not that society has become more litigious or risk averse, it's that people are being called on to pay for blunders. Should anyone expect the taxpayer or Insurance companies to cough up when fans don't? Nothing stopping them from sending money to Northern Ireland so that motorcycling events can continue.

Dave

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Don't know about the RF45 clones but my Sieg with R8 is about 30mm longer than the MT version and a good 60mm OD so the R8 taper does not get as far as where the lowest bearing comes.

You can see the difference in the two exploaded parts drawings

Been happy knocking out the tooling on my MT3 mill for the last 15yrs with no bearing problems.

Edited By JasonB on 08/02/2023 18:43:53

[Peter Ellis 5Participant @peterellis5]

One for the Europeans. Does anyone have a source for holding down straps ? I can only find complete holding down sets. I'm talking of the sets in red stands. I'm looking for just the straps with the dog toothed ends that match the triangular raising blocks. The ones I have are only short and result in the bolt fouling the bottom of the raising block when used at full height, Pictures of complete sets seem to show much longer ones, but they never seem to be offered seperately. Ideally to suit 8mm bolts.

This is what I am looking for. There must be millions of these being made yet whatever description I try comes up with everything but !

Attachments

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[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Posted by Roger Williams 2 on 31/01/2023 10:26:51:

Dont forget the people enslaved by the Romans to build the roads !!!

Yes, the Roman experience in Britain was in many ways much like the later European experience in Africa, as Conrad's narrator Marlow points out in the opening pages of Heart of Darkness:

Imagine the feelings of a commander of a fine—what d’ye call ’em?—trireme in the Mediterranean, ordered suddenly to the north; run overland across the Gauls in a hurry; put in charge of one of these craft the legionaries—a wonderful lot of handy men they must have been, too—used to build, apparently by the hundred, in a month or two, if we may believe what we read. Imagine him here—the very end of the world, a sea the colour of lead, a sky the colour of smoke, a kind of ship about as rigid as a concertina—and going up this river with stores, or orders, or what you like. Sand-banks, marshes, forests, savages,—precious little to eat fit for a civilized man, nothing but Thames water to drink. No Falernian wine here, no going ashore. Here and there a military camp lost in a wilderness, like a needle in a bundle of hay—cold, fog, tempests, disease, exile, and death—death skulking in the air, in the water, in the bush. They must have been dying like flies here. Oh, yes—he did it. Did it very well, too, no doubt, and without thinking much about it either, except afterwards to brag of what he had gone through in his time, perhaps. They were men enough to face the darkness. And perhaps he was cheered by keeping his eye on a chance of promotion to the fleet at Ravenna by and by, if he had good friends in Rome and survived the awful climate. Or think of a decent young citizen in a toga—perhaps too much dice, you know—coming out here in the train of some prefect, or tax-gatherer, or trader even, to mend his fortunes. Land in a swamp, march through the woods, and in some inland post feel the savagery, the utter savagery, had closed round him—all that mysterious life of the wilderness that stirs in the forest, in the jungles, in the hearts of wild men. There’s no initiation either into such mysteries. He has to live in the midst of the incomprehensible, which is also detestable. And it has a fascination, too, that goes to work upon him. The fascination of the abomination—you know, imagine the growing regrets, the longing to escape, the powerless disgust, the surrender, the hate.”

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Whether you buy from Warco, Axminster, Arc Euro, Chester, SPG , Amadeal, or Machine Mart will, probably depend of the specification of the potential machine, and the price of the "package" on offer.

It could be that a package including accessories that will never use is a needless on cost, so it might be financially better to go for a more basic package, or even a "bare" lathe and just buy the extras that you are sure that will need.

Similarly, how confidence are you of the quality and reliability of the machine (Many are to same basic design, some out of the same factory, but jut in a different paint scheme ). If you are confident of the product, and your ability to fix a fault, you might decide to buy a machine with a 12 moth warranty rather than paying extra for a 5 year one that will never be used.

And SHOULD you need spares back up, what is the supplier's record in this?

Having dealt with .four of the above, two I rate highly,and woulds always recommend, others, i would avoid doing business with them, if possible because of poor service back up / advice.

Purely my experience, others might differ.

Howard

[Martin Johnson 1Participant @martinjohnson1]

I ran a modified digi caliper on my lathe cross slide for a while, but found it really achieved nothing. I work mostly in metric on an imperial lathe and conversion is easy as 2 x table (0.1 mm requires 2 thou on the dial). Eventually it had some problem (cant remember now) and I couldnt be bothered to repair it.

What I do have is a long Arc Euro magnetic bar on the long axis. A very worthwhile mod.

I value the advanced features on my 3 axis Sinpo system on rhe mill, but really don't see that I could justify the expense on the lathe.

Martin

[Andrew TinsleyParticipant @andrewtinsley63637]

Much as I respect Arc Euro. I would not consider their digital readout. If I were going to spend money on a system then I would go for The Machine DRO type of system with glass or magnetic scales and a combined readout. The 2 or 3 channel readout enables you to do quite a few useful and fancy tricks! If I could not afford this type of system, then I would wait and save up for it, I would not be tempted by the Bar system.

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 22/01/2023 16:44:20

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Welcome aboard!

ALL sorts on here, clock makers included.

Try to find a local, M E club and join. You will mingle with folk with similar mindsets, experience, from which you can benefit.,

Remember that there is NO perfect lathe. Some are better for some jobs than others. The skill is in getting the machine to do what you want, to the standard that you want.

Learn how to provide a steady hand feed. There will be times when you need that skill, even if the machine has power feeds..

If in doubt, get a lathe which is a bit larger than you first thought. Your horizons will expand, and you can do small work on a big lathe. The converse is not as easy!

Before launching into machining expensive metal, get to know the lathe, and what it, and you, can do..

Learn by making a few tools that you will find useful in the future. These may well include a Centre Height Gauge (For rapidly setting tools to centre height son that they cut as intended. ) You may find the time spent in making a sliding Tailstock Die Holder, and sliding Tap Holder. You will almost certainly find a use for a Tap Wrench. You can buy just the Die Holders from Arc Euro and make a suitable body to carry them.

If you are cutting threads upto a shoulder, or down a blond hole, making a Mandrel Handle will be time well spent. Chances are that whatever lathe you buy, evn in Back Gear, is bit fast for such jobs. (and getting a broken tap out of a hole is not easy. Usually means staring all over again with new metal.

If you are clock making, you will ,not be looking to remove lots of metal in one fell swoop, so think in terms of HSS rather than carbide. A HSS toolbit will cost about the same as one carbide tip, but can be ground MANY times (Eve at 9:00 pm on a Saturday evening when everyone is shut. ) You will also learn how to grind tools. A sharp, properly ground tool can solve a lot of problems.

Buy one or two books on lathe operation and study them (lots to choose from, by former editors of M E W(Stan Bray, Harold Hall, David Clark, Dave Fenner, Neilk Wyatt. ) L H Sparey tends to concentrate more on the Myford ML7; but the basic principles;es are the same; just the detail that differs some time.

As they say in Suffolk,"Make haste slowly".

Time spent learning the basic principles and techniques will make life a lot easier in the future

HTH

Howard

[Chris Bakery’sParticipant @chrisbakerys]

Hi All

Just a quick update to thank all the people who took the time to reply.

I checked with Arc Euro who are reasonably close to me and they provided exactly the pot that I needed.

I also picked up the two lead screw nuts that I have been after for over a year.

I now have a mill with very little backlash😀, climb milling here I come.

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

If your mill looks like this then look at this page to see if the pot is the same.

Ketan at ARC

[Ex contributorParticipant @mgnbuk]

I have a Chester 7×14 lathe on the bench with it's standard 80mm chuck + a Sanou 100mm 3 jaw SC & Vevor 125mm 4 jaw independant chucks in boxes bought for the Super 7 to hand so, as Mrs B was out, I had a session on the kitchen scales.

80mm 3 jaw as removed from the lathe spindle with jaws 1538 grammes

100mm 3 jaw, no backplate with jaws 2459 grammes

125mm 4 jaw no backplate with jaws 4629 grammes

RDG 125mm cast iron Myford nose backplate 1572 grammes

Likely that a mini lathe backplate would be lighter than a Myford one (no boss) and a 125mm 3 jaw may be a bit lighter than a 4 jaw, but still a 125mm chuck with a backplate could conceivably be 4 times the weight of a standard 80 mm chuck.

A 300mm length of 100mm diameter steel bar (probably larger than you would want to put in a mini lathe, even though it might just fit ! ) comes out as 18.5kg according a steel stockholder online calculator, so maybe 25kg max load shared between 2 bearings and the tailstock. Mini lathes come with 6206 ball bearings as standard (according to Arc Eurotrade's spare parts list) with upgrade options given as 7206B angular contact ball bearings or 30306 taper roller bearings.

What are the specs of load on those ?

My SKF Big Bearing book single bearing ratings for the different bearings are given below. I have converted the kiloNewton ratings given in the book to kilogrammes using 102kg per kN & the numbers are in the order dynamic load, static load & rated speed.

6206 ball bearing 2101 kg / 1142 kg / 15000 rpm

7206B angular contact 2344 kg /1530 kg / 13000 rpm

30306 taper roller 4692 kg / 4488 kg / 11000 rpm

I don't see 25kg or so of 125 mm chuck + backplate + 18.5kg work piece + maching loads generated by a mini lathe really troubling any of the above (or appreciably shortening exected bearing lifespan over an 80mm chuck), particularly as the load will be shared by at least the 2 bearings in the headstock and maybe a tailstock centre as well. Changing the standard ball bearings to taper roller bearings would bring a substantial increase in spindle load carrying capacity if it was felt necessary & non would be troubled speed-wise.

WRT to outside lane towing, I have had the unhappy experience of being side-swiped by trailer that was being towed well in excess of 70 mph in the 3rd lane of a motorway. The trailer was a heavy duty 4 wheel item carrying a mini excavator, being towed by some sort of contractor in a Renault Trafic pickup truck. The driver appeared to have forgotten he was towing, as he failed to allow for the trailer length when he cut if front of me. I managed to avoid being pushed into the truck I was passing and (fortunately) my motorhome remained driveable, but the culprit didn't stop – actually did a runner. Fortunately Mrs B took several phone pics & got his number. Essex Police not interested (incident happened on M11) & never followed it up. £4k damage to my van that the other vehicle's insurer eventually paid out, as the van driver did not respond to their letters about the incident & they took my version of events as being "credible".

Nigel B

[Nigel McBurney 1Participant @nigelmcburney1]

ARC euro list ER collet wrenches which engage with 4 slots in the collet nut,the one that I use is painted green and shown on ARCS web catalogue,these grip better and less liable to slip plus the handle,they are strong and take fair amount of abuse,lot better than C spanners,

[colin hamiltonParticipant @colinhamilton16803]

Posted by noel shelley on 13/01/2023 10:54:18:

Could try ARCeuro ?

Good shout, it's who I got the blocks from!!

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

Could try ARCeuro ? Noel.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Had a but more time than I thought. I use a 38-42 one that has had the tip slightly ground so it fits in the hole rather than a slot.

The ring on mine is actually 42mm so you could also use a 40-42 pin type C spanner

Edited By JasonB on 13/01/2023 07:37:34

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

Hi Lucas, welcome. If you don't have a lot of experience at milling then only buy GOOD quality cutters, at least then if you have trouble the fault will not be the cutters. Stay with the known brands and suppliers. If your in the UK then give ARC euro a try there on here. Good luck. Noel.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by JA on 09/01/2023 18:12:02:

[…]

Hydrogen is the only useful clean burning fuel. There are others […]

.

… and yet; current thinking doesn’t quite class it as a fuel

**LINK**

https://joint-research-centre.ec.europa.eu/scientific-activities-z/hydrogen-and-fuel-cells_en

… if I understand EU-speak correctly

MichaelG.