Search Results for 'arc euro'

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

Personally i have never had anything to do with the lathes in question, however would it not be prudent to contact Amadeal and ask their advice ?

Also look on Arceuro site and the "projects & articles " tab there are a couple of articles relating to the Mini Lathes they supply — logical really they both advocate lubrication with grease. IMO any bearing [other than an air bearing] needs lubrication in some form.

John

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

Thanks Jason – yes a backplate mounted ER collet was my first thought and I would have expected the OP to have such a device but given he wants to straddle the gap I assume he has a face plate which normally allows a centre hole large enough to allow a MT collect to pass thru – putting a bar in this and passing the bar thru a backplate mounted ER Collet as eg sold by ARCEuro which will come with mounting holes allows the holes to be located on the faceplate and drilled(or located in the usual slots) + tightened in situ without having to make a special backplate – should be considerably more rigid than two MT1 devices in series.

[Rowan Sylvester-BradleyParticipant @rowansylvester-bradley37244]

Posted by Nicholas Farr on 01/04/2023 17:51:38:

Hi, I drilled a 10.5mm hole in a 3MT to 3MT extension from Arceurotrade, and didn't even bother to remove the tang, although I did do it on a big lathe at work. It was done for getting to mill a piece that I couldn't reach on my Chester milling machine, so was used to hold my collet chuck with a long piece of threaded rod, and it all went very well.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 01/04/2023 17:52:30

That sounds like a solution that might work for me. It needs to be an MT1 extension and I would need to drill a 6mm or 6.5mm hole for the M6 draw bar. I have ordered an extension and will have a go at drilling it when it arrives.

Rowan

Edited By Rowan Sylvester-Bradley on 01/04/2023 19:35:00

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, I drilled a 10.5mm hole in a 3MT to 3MT extension from Arceurotrade, and didn't even bother to remove the tang, although I did do it on a big lathe at work. It was done for getting to mill a piece that I couldn't reach on my Chester milling machine, so was used to hold my collet chuck with a long piece of threaded rod, and it all went very well.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 01/04/2023 17:52:30

[peak4Participant @peak4]

If you have a look on Ketan's site you will find a few different adaptor sleeves, including an MT1 to parallel.
Yes it might need through drilling for a drawbar, but would provide a means to use your MT1 collet securely in a 3 or 4 jaw lathe chuck.
https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Adaptors-Sleeves

There are also R8 to morse adaptors , though only MT2/3

Alternatively, I wonder about any old length of round bar, with the end drilled/bored to accept your milling cutter, and held in a 3/4 jaw.
If the overhang/projection causes chatter, then run it through a fixed steady on the chuck side of the cross slide.

Bill

[Dr_GMJNParticipant @dr_gmjn]

All, a couple of years ago I was advised to try using ground GT inserts to get a decent finish on something or other (I think it was the stainless or silver steel valve rod on the Stuart 10V). Since then I've found that they give an excellent finish on most small components, in a range of materials from stainless steel to aluminium.

I have an ArcEuro square tool holder ( ARC SSDC-N 45° Turning Tool Holders – Arc Euro Trade&nbsp, which I use for chamfering, but the standard insert (SCMT060204) seems a bit "blunt" for making very small cuts on small diameter work.

I'd like to use ground inserts in this tool, but Arc only seem to supply them in 9.525mm side lengths ( SCGT Square Uncoated Carbide Inserts – Arc Euro Trade&nbsp, but I need 6.35mm length.

A Google search doesn't give any results for what I assume is the correct designation: SCGT 06(T)304.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Posted by Steampunkedd on 27/03/2023 18:27:44:

Hi does anyone know where I can purchase a Quick Change Tool Post for a Clarke CL500M lathe? The swing under bed is 305 mm and the distance from bed to centre is 150mm. no websites I've visited as yet, have used the swing under bed as a measurement to help with sizing a post. Any help will be appreciated thankyou.

Nobody will use the swing over the bed as a measure for a QCTP as it is generally mounted on the compound slide.

As much as I agree with Arceurotrade as a good suggestion (JB’s link?) for purchasing (my favoured supplier, btw) I would not be recommending a set – unless you intend using all the holders.

I bought a set a few moons ago and wished I hadn’t. One holder has been modified and another does not get used (the unused one is the parting-off tool holder which requires resetting every time the ‘stick-out’ is changed!). Initially it seriously annoyed me, then I changed to an alternative QCTP each time I parted off. I bought a lathe with a rear tool post for parting off – and now never use anything else. I don’t like the ‘push type of knurler – I prefer the scissor-action version. Just my preference on that one.

I would still suggest Arc as a good, reliable supplier. I have no complaints at all of their service. Second to none as far as I am concerned.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

This gives the sizes for the 250-100 the H minimum does not really want to be any more than the thickness of teh lower part of the standard 4-way tool post

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Not certain what an MD30B actually is, so a picture would help identify it for sure. My guess is it's the common round column mill like the one linked by Old Mart, or this current Warco model.

If so download the Grizzly Manual for their similar machine. Grizzly Manuals are usually more comprehensive than British ones.

I doubt there's a beginners guide to this particular machine, but don't worry, in this class they're all much this same! The controls differ in detail rather than function. You might invest in a copy of our very own Jason Ballamy's "Milling for Beginners",

I echo Dave Halford's concern that the machine really needs tramming? What's wrong with the way it cuts, and how is the error being measured? The concern is tramming is much easier to upset than improve.

However, assuming it's the same machine, and after doing what Grizzly say about installation and levelling and being sure it's worth fixing, read on.

I believe the round column is fixed to the base with four vertical bolts or nuts on studding, one of which can be seen right-rear in the Warco picture above.

After the bolts are slackened, the column is lifted so that corrective shims can be inserted underneath. Easy in principle. Several owners have reported their problem was paint splashes under the column foot, in which case the the whole will have to be lifted off and both sides cleaned.

It's a heavy and clumsy job, and inserting the shims correctly is likely to be fiddly. As a weakling with a bad back I'd use an engine crane. Can anyone who has done it advise Paul please? My feeling is best to learn the ropes and read the book before attempting to tram a mill.

Dave

[Bill PhinnParticipant @billphinn90025]

Posted by JasonB on 25/03/2023 19:30:13:

I've used one of these.

Just to be clear for Steve: that end mill sharpening module at Arc is no longer available, only the grinding wheels to fit.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I've used one of these. Very easy to use and takes less than 60seconds to do a 4-flute cutter. If the cutters you are getting through are of a reasonable size then you should soon get your money back.

Would also be worth getting the students to make better use of the sides of the cutters rather than just the ends.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Jelly on 20/03/2023 22:22:53:

Can anyone point me at a supplier which offers a decent quality (metric) tap and die set in HSS, for a reasonable (for the quality) price?

…

Though I sort of know what you mean, the answer is 'no'!

Sorry to indulge a personal hobby horse, but words like 'decent', 'quality' and 'reasonable' are all meaningless in this context. Better to identify what the tools are for, and then define exactly what 'Fit for Purpose' and 'Value for Money' mean in your particular circumstances.

For example:

• I'm a general hobbyist working mainly in metric (most sizes). I cut hundreds rather than thousands of threads per year, mainly in free-cutting metals. I almost always align taps and dies in a mill or lathe rather than manually. Tools are lightly loaded and used carefully. In my case, 'Fit for Purpose' and 'Value for Money' are easily met by mid-range tools from Tracy, ArcEuro and similar. At my age and rate of work I'm unlikely to wear many of them out.
• My requirement is different from say Andrew or Jason. Andrew runs a time-is-money workshop, which means he values tools with a high-service life that deliver reliable value for money when worked hard. Though Jason is a hobbyist I reckon he cuts about 30 times more metal per year than I do, a rate of work that makes his tool requirements closer to Andrew's than mine.
• The way we each use our tools creates 3 overlapping views of what constitutes 'Decent', 'Quality' and 'Reasonable'. The tools that are 'Fit for Purpose' and 'Value for Money' in my workshop are unlikely to meet Andrew's criteria. Judging by Jason's posts, his buying policy is a smarter version of mine: he also buys mid-range, but orders more knowledgeably than I do when it matters.
• I guess we all treat taps and dies as consumables, not heirlooms!

Workshop requirements also decide whether sets are good or not. Starting with a set makes good sense for general threading in many sizes, and replacing bust taps and dies as necessary makes good sense. Alternatively, standardising on a few sizes only so that a set isn't needed, makes better sense in a more tightly focussed workshop. There is no right or wrong answer, it depends.

Wasting time and money are the most unforgivable sins in professional engineering. Just mismatch the requirement and solution:

• Buy a dirt cheap set of taps and dies, most of which don't get used, that can't cope with the job. Bad idea to order a cheap metric set to tap 200 M3 threads in a sheet of work-hardening stainless!
• Spend money you can't afford at high-end taps and dies and then fail to use them to the full, perhaps leaving cupboards full of NOS to the executors.

Mistakes can be reduced by engaging brain, but learners are a special case: one way of finding out what's really needed is to buy an inexpensive set and try it. I found they work well enough for me provided they're handled carefully and not asked to do too much. I usually cut larger threads by first removing most of the metal with my lathe, so the die only does a minimal tidy up. This is very different to die-cutting rod at full depth with a big wrench, as is often necessary when the thread has to be cut in a hurry! The way the tool is used alters the choice. Hobbyists are another special case – no harm in wasting money on posh tools if it's fun and one has a plenty of spare dosh!

In general there are no 'Wonderbrand' tools providing Everyman with 'decent quality' at hobby-reasonable prices. Instead, there are:

• too-cheap tools, brittle due to poor heat-treatment, and badly ground.
• mid-range tools, properly heat-treated and adequately ground, but made down to a price, and inferior to the best money can buy.
• high-end tools, well-made with close attention to detail, using the most appropriate materials, and carefully optimised for the job in hand. They tend to be eye-watering expensive.

A cruel world and I've had to learn to manage my expectations! Starting out, I assumed the best tools would be within my price bracket, and they're not. Second-hand is worth trying, but know good makes are only a good buy if they're in good condition.

The best I can suggest to beginners is to decide if your work pattern will be most like mine, Jason's, or Andrew's. If like mine, inexpensive tools work reasonably well most of the time within their limits. If like Andrew, there's a high risk the inexpensive tools I find satisfactory will be taken beyond their limits and not last long enough to have been worth Andrew's money. I suspect workers in Jason's class build up a mix of tools selected by experience: inexpensive when they're 'good-enough', otherwise money is coughed up as required. A fourth category is people who enjoy owning good tools, whatever that means, in which case they're free to spend their money as they want.

Maybe the only thing to avoid is going into dither-mode, it's a practical hobby, and hands-on and practice answer many questions.

Haven't consulted Jason or Andrew, and they might disagree with my perception. Everything I've said about them could be wrong, but it's how I target tool buying…

Dave

[HollowpointParticipant @hollowpoint]

Forget boxed sets.

Buy them individually starting with the most common sizes, if you search ebay you will find lots of new old stock taps and dies from the very top brands (Dormer, SKF, Presto, Hall, Goliath etc) at reasonable prices. Don't worry about them matching, who cares? You can then fill in the gaps with cheaper ones.

My go to brand for new taps and dies is osborn / europa tool. They seem to offer the best quality/price ratio. The higer end HSS presto ones are decent too.

Edited By Hollowpoint on 21/03/2023 09:58:32

[peak4Participant @peak4]

Have a look for videos for making Purple Clay or Yixing Teapots.

Unfortunately I've not been able to find one to embed here from Youtube, which shows the dimple behind the spout, but I saw this one on Facebook earlier; I'm guessing you will need an account to view it though.
The Facebook one shows a glass version of the ball ended tool in use, just after 2½ minutes.
https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=583542843823664&ref=sharing

I wonder if these might be tools for potters in the UK/Europe

Even if not, it's an interesting video anyway

Bill

 

Edited By peak4 on 12/03/2023 17:12:48

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

If you are still using this vice take off the swivel and go looking for the two metal keys and screws that came with it when bought, Uncle Ketan has kindly cut the slots and tapped the holes for you. I use them on my 80mm version on the CNC and like Andrew just clock the back jaw of my K4 on the manual mill.

 

Edited By JasonB on 12/03/2023 13:10:35

[Bo’sunParticipant @bosun58570]

Good morning,

I went to buy a 10mm Keyless Drill Chuck from ArcEuro, but they are out of stock for some while. Can anyone recommend an alternative supplier of good quality, reasonably priced, KDC's?

[JellyParticipant @jelly]

Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 08/03/2023 15:33:45:

Posted by Jelly on 08/03/2023 12:33:24:

Posted by JA on 08/03/2023 11:49:20:

The younger generation have, in general, little knowledge of Imperial units and don't want to know.

I'm not sure this is true, at least in Britain it's still pretty common for young people (who do anything remotely practical at all) to have good familiarity with both imperial and metric systems, and to be able to convert between the two freely.

…

I'm getting the impression that some think the slim list of straightforward units encountered in ordinary life are the Imperial system, and may not be aware Imperial is far more extensive than that. Inches, pounds and pints are just the tip of an iceberg. It's what's below the waterline that's the problem.

I have a high opinion of young Jelly, and wonder if he would mind listing the units he thinks comprise the Imperial system. For the avoidance of doubt, it would reveal if we're talking about the same thing! I'm against Imperial as used in professional engineering, not inches measured in home workshops by chaps who only do basic engineering mathematics!

If any Imperial supporters are interested in plumbing the depths, I'll post a few exam questions from my collection of 1930's textbooks. I've done this before, and they're usually ignored – too difficult! However, important to realise that recommending Imperial to youngsters, means the whole system is being pushed, not just the icing on top!

Anyway Jelly, what do you think the Imperial system is? Without looking anything up, please list the units you know how to use.

Ta,

Dave

Honestly, I couldn't truly differentiate between "Imperial Imperial" and US customary at this point, other than knowing through bitter experience to ask "Which Gallons" or "Which Tons" when someone tries to use those units.

I know this won't be truly complete, but should be a fairly good cross-section, so let's have a crack…

Mass:

• Grain, [interstitial base 16 unit I can't remember the name of] Oz, Lb, Stone (people only), Cwt (I actually find hundredweights oddly intuitive to estimate the weight of big things), Tons, [avardopoidis sp? versions of the same].

Volume:

• [weird appothacaries units], flOz, Pint, Quart, Gallon, [comical brewing barrel sizes], bbl (strictly it's an oilfield unit, but it's defined in US Gal), cuYd, cuft

Pressure/Force:

• Psi, KSI,

Length:

• "mil", "tenth", "thou", Inch, Foot, Yard, Mile, Nautical Mile (still in use in metric too because it's defined conviently via something to do with arc-seconds of longtiude).

Area:

• Acre, sqft, sqin, square mile

Power:

• hp, lb*ft/s, BTU/hr

Energy/work

• lb*ft, BTU,

Force:

• lbf, poundal (might be the same as lbf, Slug (not the same exactly but the unit of mass which gives the imperial system it's equivalent of 1kg = 9.81N equivalence for gravity), kip (us customary unit used for statics calcs in steelwork)

Torque:

• lb-ft, lb-in, oz-in (not the same as lb*ft, thanks whoever decided on that convention!),

Radioactivity units:

• Curie, Rad & Rem (just URGH, because radiation protection was just soooooo simple before that I needed the unit conversions to spice it up right?).

From there you get into the compound units in imperial, many of which would be derived units with their own name in SI and CGS (in this regard imperial can be better when you're trying to ensure an analytic solution or non-dimentionalisation makes sense), like lb*s/ft² (or lbf*s/ft² because people couldn't agree) for viscosity (the reyn might be a dynamic viscosity unit in imperial actually, it's that or stokes but I'm pretty sure the stokes is CGS), which are actually what I encounter most in an engineering context.

Most of the plants I've worked on over the years have had at least some parts which were developed pre-metrication (in which case it's a CGS vs. Imperial toss-up) or during metrication (urgh, CGS), it's also really common to see upgrades to UK and European plants which have integrated equipment from American and Canadian vendors, which is designed and specified in US customary units (which isn't Imperial, but is close enough to trap you).​

 

I would wholeheartedly agree with your statement:

Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 08/03/2023 15:33:45:

I'm against Imperial as used in professional engineering,

…

as long as we can chuck US customary units in with Imperial.

I don't mind either in a historic context, as it's a trade off for some quite cool opportunities to get up close with artefacts and living history which allows me to see the evolution of different industries (and how long some equipment lasts) first hand…

But for the love of god stop deliberately using them in new designs for sale to the international market!

[Derek ReayParticipant @derekreay29148]

I realize that there have been numerous Thread posts regarding the PCB wiring problems for the mini lathes, such as Clarke, Warco, Seig etc, but I seem to have a different problem. Before I and and a retired electrician friend of mine even start examining the PCB of a Clarke CL300 lathe it seems that we may have a problem with the F.O.R. switch. This switch looks identical to the C2-181 switch as sold by Arceurotrade. The PCB is the FC250J type.. Our particular switch has wires attached to 11 out of the 12 terminals. We have diconnected the PCB etc from the mains so it is not powered up at all and have checked the connection between each pair of terminals in the vertical 3 Terminal columns with an electrical Multimeter. This test being carried out as per the guidance troubleshooting info from the Little machine shop notes. However, this test was done with all wires still connected to the PCB, and there are some link wires also attached to some of the terminals. We get a continuation reading on one set/pair of Top and Bottom terminals in 1 vertical column. This reading is incorrect according to the Troubleshooting guide but we have not been able to find a wiring diagram which shows both the FOR switch and its connections to the PCB.. .Does anyone have such a wiring diagram/Schematic showing the wiring for all of the controls/ switches/ PCB connections. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.

[Bill PhinnParticipant @billphinn90025]

Apologies if this has been discussed on here already, but is there no longer free UK postage at Arceurotrade on tooling etc. if your basket price is above a certain threshold?

I think the threshold used to be £75.

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

We are still largely using Imperial plan-sets and machines even if we convert the dimensions and fastenings.

In the end it does not greatly matter but near-matches need watching carefully. For example, 1/16" and 1/32" are not as was stated further up the thread, but are 1.6 and 0.8mm, respectively.

BA threads are a metric system with a geometrical diameter progression; but the BSI always quoted them in inch dimensions. They do not match the ISO-M range much though, and then only in diameter. OBA is more or less M6, but that's about all.

One objection to normal ISO-M fastenings is that most of those commercially available look rather unsightly in places needing close prototypical appearance. This is valid in fine-scale work but less important where the fasteners are difficult to see or are painted over: I have used socket button-head screws to resemble rivets, tapped into the underside part, and with the paint filling the sockets.

'

It is what we choose to use; but if we have a fully-metric workshop building a model to drawings published 50 years ago will need us do a lot of converting if we don't have a DRO.

I use either depending on what I am making; and my steam-wagon is accumulating BA, ISO-M and BS threads and fasteners on a primarily inch-based project that has already taken many years to build. Whereas for other projects I might use all-metric.

Quoting units like Rods, already obsolete over a century ago, does not help; but the SI is more for physics and critical engineering designing than practical, everyday use. It was designed simply for mathematical neatness, and like all measuring systems its base units are still arbitrary inventions.

The power unit, Watt, has been that for many years, and the conversion 1HP = 750W is as damn' near accurate as any of us are going to need. (Some European car manufacturers still quote engine powers in PS – a old German, though metric, unit).

Arcanities like Newtons are relevant to designing boilers or very highly-stressed shafts and beams; but do not cut metal and are not necessary for building something to a long-established design.

.

Inch-sized stock materials are still common presumably because it would cost money to convert the machinery and people are still buying those sizes!

.

Schools have taught only metric units for years now, but they insist on clinging to the fashion-trade's non-preferred centimetre. If I am quoted a length in cm I have to change it mentally to millimetres to picture the item. (I might then equate the mm to their nearest inches though!)

[samuel heywoodParticipant @samuelheywood23031]

Posted by Stuart sladdin on 02/03/2023 11:36:00:

Thank you, do you have any recommendations for a cutting tool set. All the usual suppliers appear to be selling the same/similar carbide tipped variety probably of Chinese origin.

Arc Euro trade do heads with HSS cutters & sell the seperate HSS cutters. Can't comment further as i do not have & have not tried~ probably of Chinese origin also (as most will be) but their HSS lathe tools and blanks are good enough.

Need a boring head myself, still wondering about making one, looks more time consuming than genuinely difficult??

[Martin 100Participant @martin100]

Going back maybe 10 years or so ago an ER32 spindle nose fitting collet chuck from a well known UK supplier didn’t fit either of my Boxfords, one dating from 1954, the other from 1960/61, nor did it fit a brand new spindle sourced from Boxford themselves. The thread of the spindle in all cases is 55 deg, 1.5” x 8tpi

The collet chuck measured something very close but didn’t thread more than two turns. The replacement was just the same. The supplier said they had no others returned. Suspected the collet chuck might be a Southbend 60 degree one but couldn’t be bothered wasting any more time as a job needed doing so I just bought a backplate and one of these

**LINK**

[Chris Evans 6Participant @chrisevans6]

Somewhere I have a lot of data sheets for Loctite products picked up at a trade show many years ago. However my go to is an old Arc Eurotrade catalogue giving cross reference lists. So much easier on the pocket for cost and seem to last well over the given shelf life.

[DellParticipant @dell]

Posted by JasonB on 27/02/2023 12:28:04:

If you are happy to rework the Myford Stud then is the large dia at the end of the original stud small enough to enter the hole in your chuck?

If so hold by the existing 7/16" (11.1mm) shank with the large dia behind the chuck jaws, turn some down to 10mm and thread, also add a ctr drill hole in the end.

Now grip by the large dia in the 3 jaw and using tailstock support turn the remaining length down to 10mm to just below where the top surfaceof the top slide comes.

You will then have a stud that looks like the one ARC sell

Edited By JasonB on 27/02/2023 12:31:41

thats a good idea then as I have already started the thread so I can then extend the thread by hand before cutting to length.

Thanks Dell