Search Results for 'arc euro'

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

Talk to the experts at ArcEurotrade – if it's Sieg, they will be able to get the parts and give you an honest opinion of if it's worth spending the money or not.

Steve

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Or use a bell type centre drill, no jokes about the ends

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

Posted by clogs on 04/02/2016 10:39:49:

Hi all ,

.

MT5 taper inside the spindle…..

I was hoping for something simple and off the shelf…….oh well……

cheers clogs…….

.

Seems there is from ARC :- **LINK**

Nick

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

Posted by Michael Walters on 03/02/2016 16:05:11:

Combining an AC motor with a VFD and utilizing some aspects of mechanical reduction, like high and low gear settings seems to be a good way of machining all but the toughest of applications.

 

I use a mill with a DC motor at 750 watts and a lathe with an AC motor at 750 watts, both have some form of power control i.e PWM or a VFD and i can honestly say its hard to tell the difference. But my pillar drill has a single phase motor at 370watts but only uses mechanical reduction and it feels like i could plunge a drill as hard as i like and it'll take it in its stride. So what clive is saying probably is true.

Michael W

The reason for the belt drive being more powerful is because that style of speed reduction actually increases torque so apart from losses in the drive power remains the same. Electronic speed control on either type of motor doesn't do that. Torque tends to be constant so actual power is reduced as the speed is slowed down. Some ac inverter drives model the heating effects of the motor so may actually drop the troque. This happens because the motors have a max current rating and running them more slowly doesn't mean that they can pass more current – less in practice because at some point they will overheat as the usual cooling fan is also running at a lower speed. Actually in principle it's better to speed them up but at some point the armature will burst due to centrifugal forces.

As Ketan of Arceuro mentioned it's hard to be sure about what the actual output power of variable speed machine tools really is. The ones he sells are rated on output power. Some may be rated on input power. Either might have power stated for a certain time limit. Some AC motors state continuous some don't.

John

–

Edited By Ajohnw on 03/02/2016 17:56:07

[clogsParticipant @clogs]

Hi all, couple of questions….
I have a Colchester Student lathe, and would like to use a ER40 collet chuck DIRECT on the headstock spindle….

( I already have a nice set of collets)…
I would like to be able machine up to 30mm dia bar x 6" long (thru / inside the chuck)…..

on the new collet chuck, it's not necc for a quick release or anything fancy, quite happy to use a spanner for release…….
Have looked around without success so far but was offered a ER40 chuck with a flange from Arc Euro……
Not quite what I had in mind as would prefer to buy something ready done…..mainly beacause the dinosour chucks I have are not that good and or up to making an adaptor for the above flanged ER chuck……..

there is enough work ,so that to remove the original chuck and run without it isn't a problem……
I want reasonable repeatable accuracy from the start, better tool clearance plus the stock is often quite small and also because there will be little or no damage to the stock as most of what I need to machine is mirror polished…

This is not for business use……..
Any suggestions…..

Anyone out there with a fancy 6 jaw chuck…….looking/thinking to replace the boat anchor of a 3 jaw chuck I got with above lathe….I reckon the 3 jaw original was swopped before I bought it, as the one I have was probably use by Genghis Kahn and his hoard's……
How do the 6 jaw's work out in real life…..accuraccy ease of use etc…..
Are they worth the money when compared to replacing the 3 jaw chuck I have…is it possible to get a direct replacement for the original fitting ?….
Anyone fitted one to a Student….(Cant afford a better lathe before u ask….My lathe is in very good condition, I know it's history from new)……most of it's life was spent idle due to burnt out electric's…..

I have sent out loads of emails asking supplier's for answer's but no reply's as yet (almost 2 week's)…that's why I'm asking here…..sorry…..

Is it possible to get a direct replacement for the original 3 jaw chuck ..Bernard I think….(that's without using adaptors)….

cheer's clogs

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Baldric on 03/02/2016 07:57:34:

Looking at the specification of **LINK** it says to click the image to see the details of the dimensions, using Windows10 clicking the image does nothing so I can't see which dimension is which.
​Baldric

Thanks for bringing to my attention. Fixed for now. However, we will be changing it again in the near future, becasue we discovered another limitation on functionality when re-testing.

Ketan at ARC.

[BaldricParticipant @baldric]

Looking at the specification of **LINK** it says to click the image to see the details of the dimensions, using Windows10 clicking the image does nothing so I can't see which dimension is which.
​Baldric

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Posted by jim' on 02/02/2016 19:05:17:

Treated meself to one of Arceurotrade's new 000 QCTP.

Only problem is, I now need to buy more holders…….

I bought one too, with the three holders plus two more…

Cant wait to fit it….

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Like this.

[jim’Participant @jim11037]

Treated meself to one of Arceurotrade's new 000 QCTP.

These are the sliding wedge type.

I bought mine for a Sieg C4, i'd had a mini lathe QCTP before, but, they are not very good!

Very impressed! Very precise location, far more positive and accurate than my "piston" type 2 on the Crusader!

Only problem is, I now need to buy more holders…….

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Martin 100 on 02/02/2016 12:41:41:

Now and again there is a distinct lack of inclination for web pages to come back from the arceurotrade server. It used to be quite snappy 100% of the time, now it's like stirring treacle at minus 20 deg C A few minutes later and it's almost back to normal

Hi Martin,

Not 100% sure why that is. I have been monitoring speeds after the changeover, and found them to be generally faster for more pages because of the way we have layed out the new structure.

However, there are a few reasons which could explain issues with speed:

1. some new pages still have more products on them, so may take longer to load – but this is now effecting less number of pages then before.

2. If the issue is for today, then we have a problem with the link between our server at our premises and the web server today, thanks to Virgin Media. We are looking into this. This is causing a few delays on certain pages today for sure.

3. Some pages are still being updated on a daily basis by us. This could caused minor disruption.

4. Some customers browsers need updating.

We will continue to develop and try to improve issues such as speed the best we can, ans can only apologise for the delays caused by us.

Ketan at ARC.

[Martin 100Participant @martin100]

Now and again there is a distinct lack of inclination for web pages to come back from the arceurotrade server. It used to be quite snappy 100% of the time, now it's like stirring treacle at minus 20 deg C A few minutes later and it's almost back to normal

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

I have the WM 16 mill & have one of these vices, the 100mm size, so far it has sufficed for my needs, I did a bit of tweaking to eliminate some jaw lift but there are better ones available that will do this 'automatically' …on my wish list… but it all depends on your budget.

**LINK**

George.

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Vic,

You can get live centres with replacable tips ***Link*** from ARC. They are more expensive but will probably last longer. I agree with Roger about the Skoda centre, I have one myself, still good as new.

Thor

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

.

Have a nosey at the excellent range of milling vices of various sizes stocked by ARC Eurotrade. IMHO very nice for the money.

At the prices they are not worth bothering constructing your own unless it's for the personal satisfaction of "I made that" which by default a lot of members here can relate to.

Nick

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

I would expect most of the taper to fit into the back of the chuck Brian. Maybe around 1mm proud.

You can check the B16 sizes from a link on this page

**LINK**

You could turn the die holder you have into a sliding one by turning the end of a drill chuck arbour parallel to suit the hole in the die holder. Your carbide tools should be ok on the B16 arbour. You may need a 2mt to 1mt sleeve to hold the work in the head stock spindle. I can't remember you headstock taper.

To be honest when I needed 1mt arbours I parted off and turned down used 1mt reamers on a Hobbymat. Screw cutting them if needed was ok too but the dog clutch needed deburing with a file afterwards. That is what started me off converting brazed tip parting off tool into screw cutting tools. In this case it's probably possible to get a reamer running true in the 4 jaw.

John

–

Edited By Ajohnw on 28/01/2016 18:15:42

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

What dia are you looking for?

Could try Arc HSS and Carbide both Tiain coated

[Paul Relf-DaviesParticipant @paulrelf-davies37806]

Looks fine on my Windows 7 PC with the latest Chrome & IE11 as well as in Chrome, on my Android phone.

IMHO, the ArcEuroTrade site has always been a breath of fresh air in the world of ME orientated online shops, which are, for the most part awful!

cheers

P.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Pete,

Enclose the phrase in quotation marks

>>> No Results

Now try **LINK**

MichaelG.

.

Nowt like a good bit of pedantry

Edit: Jason beat me to it … Although, strictly speaking, I don't think that [without the use of additional devices] they turn balls all 

Edit: Updated in deference to Jason B.

 

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 26/01/2016 09:15:47

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 26/01/2016 09:31:15

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The other method that I've not seen mentioned here that I occasionally use for small round bars is a slit square like this as I only have a couple of V botton toolholders which tend to be kept set on height for their own bar. Just goes in a spare flat bottom tool holder and the screws bear on the top.

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Bill,
Here is one source for the reversing switch. (Unless there are different versions of the lathe taht use adifferent switch.

Les.

[Brian JohnParticipant @brianjohn93961]

I had another go at the small crank arm today (part 8). I now have a slitting saw which I did not have on my first attempt months ago. The slitting saw is a wonderful thing : if you have just bought a lathe then make this your next purchase (available from Arc Euro).

I made two of the small crank arms today as I thought I might get better as I went along but it was not to be  I think the first one on the left is closer to the required shape but I am reasonably happy with the day's work. Why are the crank arms this shape anyway ? Could they not be circular on the model ? I realise that on the prototype the shape was probably based on weight distribution and the engines would run better this way.

 

Edited By Brian John on 25/01/2016 06:28:37

Edited By Brian John on 25/01/2016 06:29:34

[Arnljot SeemParticipant @arnljotseem72268]

Thank you all, for the overweliming support. I did set up a dial indicator, but since my indicator only have 10 mm travel, I measured only one turn. I got really varying readings, from 3.05 per hand wheel turn, but when I measured closer to the tail stock I could see that the readings were in the 3.17-3.18 region. Not the best accuracy, and I made sure to take out the back lash when changing directions. Also the hand wheel is exactly as pictured above. (isn't it really reading 3.19 for a full turn from zero to zero?)

Could this variations in readings depending on the location be due to a worn lead screw or half nut?

So most certainly, this is a standard 8 tpi imperial lead screw, with a metric hand wheel. Was it so hard, when everything else was made metric (even the slide feed screws), to make a metric lead screw?

In any case, it seem straight forward to make metric threads with the 8 tpi lead scree, although as I understand, using the 21T gear is an approximation that works for shorter threads. I also understand that a 127T gear would be more correct. This being my first lathe experience, doing very simple things, I think this will work just fine. As a bonus I get to learn everything from scratch, instead of just twisting a few knows and not having a clue what is actually going on.

 

Since this is my first post, here is a little background: I am a computer engineer living in Norway, but educated in the US. I have been in the computer business for a good 25 years now, and work mostly with network security these days. I'm in the second half of my 50's now, and doing some soul searching regarding my professional life i miss the fact that I have never made anything. I'm only utilizing equipment that other people develop and produce, and thinking back on all the great stuff my fathers shop designed and manufactured, this feels some what of a void. Everything is made in China these days, and Europe is unfortunately just "cutting each others hair" as we say in Norway. So for the last few years, I have been tinkering with some electronics projects (Arduino, Raspberry Pi etc) and have built myself a small and simple lab. For the last few years, I've had a growing interest in machining. After reading a lot, and having watched countless hours of very good and interesting Youtube videos, I'm finally taking the leap into my machining adventure.

I have been looking for a lathe (and a mill) for a while, but remembered that there was an old lathe in my late fathers estate. He started is own business in the 50's, manufacturing professional electronics such as power supplies for military systems and later for minicomputers (he actually made the power supply for some of the very first computers developed in Norway), large audio mixers for broadcasting etc. Very many interesting things, and I used to work there every summer from the age of 12. They also had a very well equipped machine shop, with som very talented craftsmen. I remember this little tired lathe from my younger years, sitting in a corner of the machine shop. They used it for simpler things and the shop was full of very advanced machinery. This little lathe was the very first machine my father purchased for his newly started business. So taking this lathe into my own shop, restoring and taking it into my personal use feels very special.

I quickly found that the Myford Super 7 was a very popular machine, with many users and great help on the forums. There is also easy to get spare parts, and other options both from the Myford company (is it the original Myford company?) and other suppliers.

Thank you for all your help.

Edited By Arnljot Seem on 24/01/2016 17:46:50

[AeronutParticipant @aeronut]

Just a quicky job today, a new base to fit my Warco 1232 for the QCTP I'd recently bought from those nice people at ARCEURO

Regards Lee