Search Results for 'arc euro'

[JonParticipant @jon]

Posted by Iain Downs on 06/03/2016 15:08:08: One which appears to have two dovetails one to pull the holder in and one to be pulled against. I think the one JOn hates is of this type. Arceurotrade have one of this sort (which is not to say, that theirs is non-rigid, etc…). I think this is also how the 'Bison' type work Iain

Not so much that Iain its the way theyre made, cheap as chips.
The industry standard all others are compared with use something of similar lines the Dickson.

As above if don't intend using top slide nip the gib strips up.
Johns fixed idea is supremely as rigid as you will ever get better doing away with top slide bolting direct. Done it with last lathe but not current, you will be amased what moves and where.

[Iain DownsParticipant @iaindowns78295]

So the recommendation so far is 'spend more money'. Gah!

I've found 4 mechanisms so far.

Neil's, which pushes a barrel out to push the holder against the dovetail.

One which appears to have two dovetails one to pull the holder in and one to be pulled against. I think the one JOn hates is of this type. Arceurotrade have one of this sort (which is not to say, that theirs is non-rigid, etc…). I think this is also how the 'Bison' type work link

One which has a moving outer dovetail that pushes in to secure the toolholder, such as this one from Chronos link

One which has a moving inner dovetail that pushes out to secure the holder. ArcEurotrade have this sort ​too

MY own guess is that the ones which pull in (the latter two) would be the most rigid in that they should have more direct metal to metal contact.

At £60+ quid I will have to save up (or add Neil's design to my long list of tools to build)…

Iain

[HollowpointParticipant @hollowpoint]

Might be worth taking a look at the new wedge style from arc euro. Similar to the piston style but the holders are pulled in to the dovetail rather than pushed out. It's not much more expensive either. I was tempted by this type but couldn't find a supplier in the UK for the larger size. I went with a Dixon clone in the end.

[AndyPParticipant @andyp13730]

Dizzi,

I made a couple of clamp bolts something like that for my C1, anything is better than the allen headed bolts fitted originally, but now use two of these clamps the size needed is M5 x 40 but needs a little 6mm long spacer turning up.

I use this quick change toolpost from Arc Eurotrade and it works fine. I think they now have a different, possibly better, one as well having seen an advert somewhere recently.

No connection with either co etc. blah, wasn't me guv!

Andy

[dizzibitsParticipant @dizzibits]

Hello all

I am interested to know if there is a different quick change post for the Sieg C1 – I see the one arceurotrade sell but wondered if there were any others? I recently acquired a compound slide for my C1 for a bargain price.

I am still starting out, and wondered if there was a 40cm or 15" 3/4 wide tool chest out there? I have seen one by Sealeys for over £200. I do not have the budget for that. I have limited space hence the width restriction, and as I slowly acquire more tools and bits I am needing storage!

Many thanks

Edited By dizzibits on 28/02/2016 09:18:59

[Another JohnSParticipant @anotherjohns]

Dave – random comments:

0) congratulations on making the plunge, not all will. And, planning on making the plunge, and asking questions.

1) Would have loved a Tormach PCNC 770, but did not have the vertical height to get one on its' supplied base.

2) Do have a KX1, running LinuxCNC (as does Tormach now, abeit with their own interface), and it is a great little machine. Both of my LinuxCNC machines are incredibly reliable. (the KX1 came without the electronics controller that the Arc Eurotrade one does, and I think you are stuck with Windows and Mach3 on the Arc one, which if true, would not interest me, but that is just *my* thoughts and I'm sure the Arc offering is well thought out)

3) do have a larger CNC conversion (G0704-style) but better would have been the Tormach 770… (sigh) (should have raised the house or lowered the basement floor…)

4) tool changer – not of interest to me. Maybe on a lathe, but on a mill, I just change tools, and re-set the Z (sometimes with a touch plate, which makes it almost automatic)

5) I do wish for an enclosure, and coolant. (I do use compressed air to clear away the chips, but many of these do end up on the floor, despite the chip tray)

6) You can use the Tormach Tooling System, if you do want something more like an ATC, but without the cost, the speed, or…

Just random comments. Whatever you do purchase, learn to use it, and you'll be ahead of the game.

John.

[KettrinboyParticipant @kettrinboy]

Hi Alex , there is usually a plate somewhere on the back on machines to say what oils to use , but ii can tell you that in our shop at work where we had 4 Colchesters two Triumph 2000 and two Master 2500 lathes the boss always used Shell Tellus 68 oil in the headstocks and none of them ever gave trouble in the 15 yrs i was there , a lot of makes do similar spec oils like for example the Esso Nuto series , ARC Eurotrade sell Rock Oil 32 and 68 machine oils but only in 1 litre bottles i think ,  i am going to get some 68 myself  to put in my Harrison L5 headstock , my boss usually got the 25 litre oil cans from Cromwell Tools as he had a trade account with them.

regards Geoff

Edited By Kettrinboy on 23/02/2016 08:40:18

[Barnaby WildeParticipant @barnabywilde70941]

I was in a very similar predicament 10yrs ago when looking for my first CNC mill.

At that time there were only a handful of Tormachs in the UK but I was happy that spending the £10k ish to get one over here would have been a good move. Instead I opted for a Syil SX3 for £3.5k.. My reason was that if my particular project failed then I'd rather be failing with £3.5k than £10k+ invested in a lump of metal.

Alas, my project was so phenomenally successful that all of my CNC manufacturing is now farmed out. The Syil is used only for R&D and only then when the 3d printer simply won't do a sturdy prototype.

That Axminster machine will not remove any more metal any more quicker than my Syil SX3. The limiting factors are the HP from the motor & the rigidity of the whole machine.

You could have a similar machine to mine in your workshop tommorrow for less than £5k but you won't have the option for ATC.

ATC is very desirable if you're looking to make £money (like me) but if you're just a hobbyist then is the doubling in cost worthwhile?

If you're a hobbyist then go for something from Arc Euro, if you're a wealthy hobbyist then sit down with Ketan & trust him to spend your extra on much improved quality & tooling.

If you're looking to make £money then a Tormach (IMO) is the minimum entry point..

P.S. My Syil might be up for sale soon . . . . I'm looking to upgrade to a Tormach !

[Bob RodgersonParticipant @bobrodgerson97362]

Hi Dave,

I did look at these when I was looking for a CNC Mill but decided against it. I am not sure but I think they are more or less the same as the seig mill. If they are you might just as well go for one of ARC Euro models.

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Played with the taper turning attachment today, making some short 0MT centres for the Flexispeed

I trimmed this parallel shank rolling centre from arceurotrade. Turned easily, no different to annealed silver steel.

 

 

I need to make a cover for the TTA, all its little nooks and crannies are filling with swarf

Rod

Edited By Roderick Jenkins on 22/02/2016 15:54:54

[Martin 100Participant @martin100]

"Myford Super 7 (with gearbox and power cross feed), a Harrison M250/M300 or later at the right price and an equivalent Colchester."

A huge range there and no obvious reason why. If you have the space for anything bigger than a Myford then why wouldn't you choose it.

Many decades ago I was denigrated by a workmate for us choosing a Boxford rather than a Myford. At the time neither my father nor I could afford anything else. But the work that lathe took on over the years was way ahead of anything I could have ever ever handled on a Myford. A bigger lathe or a gapped bed that could have handled brake disc skimming would have been nice in the past but I can easily cope without.

After messing with changewheels for years I now find the gearbox I retrofitted essential, not for screwcutting but for quickly adjusting feedrates. Power longitudinal and cross feed is also a must have for me. Far better this doesn't have the potential to cause leadscrew wear as some implementations do (yes you Myford)

Another essential is a quick change toolpost (arc euro etc) . The 4 way toolpost that cost me a fortune back in the 1980's is really only fit for the bin. Horrible things designed by a masochist. The age of shimming tools long consigned to history. Same with the vertical milling attachment, for the Boxford it cost a lot of money, and it was used quite a bit for small jobs but it's never ever a substitute for a proper genuinely rigid milling machine.

So unless I was limited to a very tiny shed and model making a Myford in any form would never be on my list, the likes of the M250/300 would always be on the list.

 

 

Edited By Martin 100 on 18/02/2016 22:23:00

Edited By Martin 100 on 18/02/2016 22:27:06

[JAParticipant @ja]

Myford cross slide stiffness: the two steel blocks below the casting not only lifted it into the best position for the fly cutter but also allowed free and easy operation of the slide.

One minor niggle, not a weakness, about late Myfords is that to get to the oil nipple on the end of the back gear shaft the chuck has to be removed. Obviously the shaft only gets oiled between jobs. It has to be said Myford did like oil nipples. Every so often I wonder if I can afford ArcEuroTrade's oiling kit.

JA

[LambtonParticipant @lambton]

I am not the only person to be concerned about the quality of imported rebar. See this from UK Steel

UK Steel highlights concerns over the quality of imported rebar

Published: 19/08/2014

We believe it is important that the steel reinforcement supply chain should be aware that there is a heightened risk of imported rebar being currently available on the market that is not compliant with the relevant certification scheme and British Standard.

UK Steel has since March brought three complaints to the attention of CARES (UK Certification Authority for Reinforcing Steels) – backed by evidence – of non-compliant imported rebar. The first two complaints related to breaches of the traceability requirements of the CARES certification scheme. The most recent complaint made in early August provided evidence of bars that did not comply with BS 4449.

All three complaints specifically relate to Chinese material.

Ian Rodgers, Director of UK Steel, in commenting to the press said: “Coming on top of the weak link in the CARES traceability regime relating to imported rebar, it is now becoming increasingly clear that there are risks in using non-European rebar. We suggest that fabricators and contractors should test any non-EU rebar they have in stock – and particularly Chinese rebar – to ensure that it is fully compliant with the British Standard.”

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

I have the WM 16 with MT2, 4 year old this year, bought at Harrogate exhibition, the motor is quiet & the only noise is from the gearbox which is not overly loud, as said due to plastic against steel. looking at the updated versions that are on the market, If buying today I would plumb for the brushless belt driven… no brushes to change &, should any hang ups occur then the belt will slip rather than the plastic gear teeth stripping off. Having said that I can't complain at it's performance & it has handled all that I have asked it to do so far, so if you can put the extra £150 to it… go for it, as an upgrade I have fitted simple DRO's ( Arc Euro remote read outs ) on the X & Y axis, much easier all round.

George.

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

Hi David

There was in the Model engineer some time ago an interesting
method of producing these type of skew gears .
The author was Jock Smith and can be found from 1995
Me Vol 174 issue 3989 page 336 and 3991 page 468.

Seen in album " gears " 3 photos 2 are from article MEW 193
Gear hobbing in the mill and shows a skew gear being hobbed
and the other some completed gears .The hobs were from Arc Euro
I think these are now all sold out and they now don't seem to sell
them anymore which is a shame as they were a very good cutting tool.
Obviously there is quite a lot to make to be able to produce these
type of gears in this way and to some extent depends on how many
gears you need ,i seem to make more and more of these as time
goes by the third photo some gears and some toothed belt pullies
made recently.

John

[MWParticipant @mw27036]

I think the ARC euro price is fairly decent, i would simply go for that, it offers itself as a permanent solution.

Michael W

[MM57Participant @mm57]

Am just about to fit some production quality stepper motors to my Chester 20V X, Y and Z as a proof-of concept before going to a fuller CNC solution. Will initially drive them from a lashup made of an Arduino plus production quality drivers and a power supply…so essentially just "power feeds" to start with (that bit already built and working fine on the bench)

I will need some couplings between the motor shafts and the leadscrews (full CNC solution will be ballscrews) and I seem to have a choice:
– CNC/production quality Oldham couplings – but they seem very expensive for a PoC, circa £15 each from say Arceurotrade (two hubs and one disk per axis, if I read it right)
– the "flexible shaft" aluminium couplings (seem to be just a spiral cut in an aluminium cylinder) from *Bay, either via an English source (still quite expensive) or from China (cheap)
– something else.

Any ideas please?

[Adam HarrisParticipant @adamharris13683]

Thanks Neil – I will buy the Arceurotrade R8 arbor then and re-thread it. Many thanks to everyone for their advice.

[Adam HarrisParticipant @adamharris13683]

Thanks Rod for the advice on how to cut the threads. Nick/John, the Arceurotrade Arbor has an 18tpi and is only 1.5" in external thread diameter so not I think possible to re-thread to 12 tpi with external thread diameter of 1 3/8" unless the 18 tpi thread depth is only 1/16"….would it typically be only 1/16" deep?

[John ReeseParticipant @johnreese12848]

Posted by Nick Hughes on 10/02/2016 15:14:17:

Possibly re-thread the arbor for one of these :- **LINK** (scroll down the page for the R8 arbor).

Nick.

This is the best suggestion of the lot. The arbors are inexpensive and not particularly hard. You should be able to work with HSS tools.

[Nick HughesParticipant @nickhughes97026]

Possibly re-thread the arbor for one of these :- **LINK** (scroll down the page for the R8 arbor).

Nick.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Frances IoM on 09/02/2016 16:07:25:
I drilled supports for stops based on Mike Cox's scheme on my SX1 table but then decided that DRO was a much better scheme and haven't missed such stops since installing the relatively cheap DRO from ArcEuro – would be worth considering such future DRO in future when drilling the table even if you decide to use the stops pro tem – the real annoyance is that buried gib based screw that locks the Y axis – might also be worthwhile fettling the gibs at same time as even on a new SX1 table one of gib strips was banana shaped (see earlier discussion) – with good gib strips should only need hand tightening of less than half a turn but banana shaped gibs nake adjustment + travel a pain

You have just given me an inspired idea – adapt a telescope 'handle on a cable' to fit a the gib locking screw!

No more scraped knuckles!

Neil

[Douglas St.DennyParticipant @douglasst-denny31997]

Posted by Ketan Swali on 09/02/2016 15:58:58:

Posted by Douglas St.Denny on 09/02/2016 13:52:31:

I'm not convinced that the quality of the machine I bought 2nd hand is as poor as is being alluded to. If I find that I'm unhappy with it, I'll mention it here, and tell everyone why. Value for money spent is something I take seriously.

No reply from Draper yet, re the motor for their Micro Lathe.

Douglas

Hi Douglas,

Before you embark on this knowledge of discovery with your Nano, I would like to suggest that you have a read of this thread. It is a great insight into Brian Johns journey – as a beginner. I am suggesting this as a positive statement, with admiration for Brians perseverance. His journey is a great example of a combination of lack of user experience (nothing wrong with that), combined with limitations of the lathe he has purchased, and value for money.

You will need to keep in mind that the Nano has far more limitations than Brians machine.

Ketan at ARC.

Thanks for the suggestion re the thread. I just read it and found answers to a few questions I had floating around in my head.

Draper replied – 90€ for the new motor which includes shipping to France. No stock until April or so.

I'm in no hurry, and at that price certainly not interested in pre-ordering…

Douglas

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

I drilled supports for stops based on Mike Cox’s scheme on my SX1 table but then decided that DRO was a much better scheme and haven’t missed such stops since installing the relatively cheap DRO from ArcEuro – would be worth considering such future DRO in future when drilling the table even if you decide to use the stops pro tem – the real annoyance is that buried gib based screw that locks the Y axis – might also be worthwhile fettling the gibs at same time as even on a new SX1 table one of gib strips was banana shaped (see earlier discussion) – with good gib strips should only need hand tightening of less than half a turn but banana shaped gibs nake adjustment + travel a pain

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Steve Withnell on 08/02/2016 20:42:19:

Talk to the experts at ArcEurotrade – if it's Sieg, they will be able to get the parts and give you an honest opinion of if it's worth spending the money or not.

Steve

Hi Steve,

Thanks for the plug. However, Nano is one of those machines which we keep away from for a whole number of reasons, and we avoid getting into parts for said machine. It is definitely not a watchmakers lathe, nor is it a lathe for beginners, in our opinion. Thats all we can honestly say about it.

Douglas,

With respect, my suggestion would be to start with another machine, rather then spending your money on a new motor. The learning curve on your machine will be difficult. However, if you still want to consider the motor, it is the same family as the X0 Drill/Mill motor, with perhaps are few modifications on mounting/shaft. Here is the **LINK**

ARC is unable to get you spares for the Nano, because as I mentioned earlier, this is a machine we prefer to keep away from.

Good Luck.

Ketan at ARC.