
John Stevenson 1
@johnstevenson1
Posted by Rainbows on 20/09/2015 19:05:18:
I checked and the cost of an adept in 1933 was £4 10s which equates to £280.11 which happens to be the cost of A C0 Baby from ArcEuro.
I wonder how much it would cost to commerically produce a Super Adept these days considering the generally lower price of steel and low labour cost CNC machining.
C0 comes complete.
Sooper Adapt never had motor etc.

Neil Wyatt
@neilwyatt
Posted by Bazyle on 27/08/2016 14:53:27:.
Found this bit of the ARC site with diagrams but no reference to which is A & B. Nice idea Ketan but can you do some for other lathes please.
The charts (which are stuck on the gearbox of new lathes) include diagrams clearly showing how the gears should be fitted to the banjo. The clue is that the diagram showing three gears applies to setups with three gears and the diagram with four gears appllies to setups using four gears.

I suspect Ketan only supplies the data for lathes he sells! – and that article looks very familiar 
Neil

Bazyle
@bazyle
To actually answer your question a bit more informatively the A and B probably refer to diagrams which you might not have noticed that show some additional gears.
for example this screwcuttign chart is for a Boxford and shows several diagrams to show the different set-ups.
Found this bit of the ARC site with diagrams but no reference to which is A & B. Nice idea Ketan but can you do some for other lathes please.
Here we are at last an article which I don't have time to read at the moment but don't see the diagrams – guess who wrote the article
Edited By Bazyle on 27/08/2016 15:07:56

here again
@hereagain
Back to beginners for me! Want to cut my first screwthrwad and eventually found ready to use charts for change gears on arc euro s site..BUT still not sure as there is one line calling itself wheel set up A or B..
Whats that please? Jonathon

Ajohnw
@ajohnw51620
It's a good job your ML10 is the one with taper roller bearings in the headstcok. The earlier ones need some care in buying as they can't simply be replaced when worn.
I have always used moly grease on bearings. Initially Castrol and more recently the high speed one from ArcEuro.
It's never caused me any problems on anything I have used it on. I also noted that it's what Ford got out of the cupboard when some items were not making it through warantee. A car scrap dealer pointed this out to me years ago when I wanted a cheap used starter motor for something.
John
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Howard Lewis
@howardlewis46836
Drip feed oilers, and spring loaded ball oilers are available from Arc EuroTrade, (Just a satisfied customer).
My genuine Myford oil gun left almost everything, including me, covered in oil. Not sure how much actually went where I wanted it to go.
Bought a Reilang, and years on am still MOST impressed. It was a good buy!
Howard

Yuriy Krushelnytskiy
@yuriykrushelnytskiy45312
Frances,
I know a number of people who bought the "Digital Readout Bars with Dedicated Remote Display" scales from ArcEuro. iGaging is a California-based distributor that re-barges various scales. The scales in question are made by Shahe and there is no difference between iGaging and the generic version.
Regards
Yuriy

Frances IoM
@francesiom58905
has anyone had experience with the what appears to be igauging DROs with remote displays as sold by ArcEuro interfaced to one of Yuri’s systems

Clive Hartland
@clivehartland94829
The two half nuts on the ML10 get filled with swarf, To clear undo the hex head screws and the whole front plate will come away, firstly undo the nut on the engagement lever and lift away and then undo the two screws with slots in them. it will be easy to juggle free.
The two half nuts have a screw that can be abutted to the other to limit the engagement of the half nuts. Clean out the half nuts and re-adjust to just clamp lightly.
I am in the process of making a metal shroud to try and keep swarf out of that area.
Re the grease/oil gun, make sure which bearings you have as the ball bearing type needs grease not oil.
It is worthwhile doing the bearing mod to the cross slide spindle, (See Arc Euro's page that shows detail and you can get bearing from them) I used the vertical slide bearing housing to modify first and then when complete swopped with the one on the lathe.
Clive

Howard Lewis
@howardlewis46836
If you can find the identification details on the board, you should be able to geta replacement from the importer.
You could try running the board identification past Ketan at ErcEuroTrade. He is very helpful, and ARC carry spares for the Seig C2 and C3, (they use DC brushed motors, but with different, non interchangeable, speed control boards) so you may get lucky.
Howard

choochoo_baloo
@choochoo_baloo
Having had a brief browse of the likes of arceurotrade, chronos etc I cannot seem to find plain looking arbor/key way mounted milling cutters for a horizontal milling machine.
Please could someone suggest/link sellers of these various shape cutters.

choochoo_baloo
@choochoo_baloo
Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 12/08/2016 00:18:54:
our best bet for holding milling cutters will be finger collets (such as these) held in the 2 MT socket with a draw bar. You will probably only want 1/4 and 3/8" on this little machine.
Below is an image of the Myford patent collets I referred to in my original post. As they are 2MT, to save some money for the time being, couldn't they be used on the mill using a drawbar (they're female threaded at the end) since the mandrel nose thread obviously won't be on the mill socket.
I've read elsewhere that these Myford collets have a tenancy to slip when used for milling, yet these pages – from Ian Bradley's well known "Myford Series 7 Manual" – so that these collets can be sued for milling cutters as well as round stock holding?
I agree that some a few finger collets, with their minimum overhang, is probably the best way to proceed. Most work would be done with the horizontal arbor anyway. I asked the question from the time when I need to precise drill etc, by erecting the work on a 90 deg angle plate to face the spindle.

Aeronut
@aeronut
Blimey, I'm at lot slower, only on number 4 for my ARCEURO QCTP and that's taken me a month.

Regards Lee

Bazyle
@bazyle
It seems some people don't fully understand the word "horizontal".
First decide what cutters you are going to use. If screw shank Clarkson you might find an M2 Posilock or clone collet chuck designed for them. If you are using plain shank (or those with a flat) you can start with a MT2 collet for the appropriate size. These have a a small risk of slipping so take care.
Then you can get a blank MT2 arbor and bore for a cutter and holding screw. These are available ready made too.
You only need to get one or two to start with so very cheap starting point while you find out a bit more. I wouldn't jump into ER collets until you have tried the whole machine a bit to find out how you find yourself using it. A collet chuck will extend the overhand and it is a bit small and weak for too much of that.

Roderick Jenkins
@roderickjenkins93242
Hi,
I think you are going to find that you will be severely restricted in the amount of room you will have in the Y direction. Your best bet for holding milling cutters will be finger collets (such as these) held in the 2 MT socket with a draw bar. You will probably only want 1/4 and 3/8" on this little machine. For drilling I would try a 1/4" chuck on a 2MT arbor – again it will be difficult to fit the drill and chuck in the space between the job and the spindle nose. This picture demonstrates how much room even a 1/4" chuck and jobber drill takes up:

R8 describes the taper, it's an alternative to Morse tapers in the machine spindle, so not relevant. An ER25 collet chuck would be a good choice with 2MT arbor but the chuck itself will take up much of the available space, hence the recommendation for finger collets which mostly sit within the spindle taper. An ER 16 collet set would take up less room than ER25 and would give you the option to hold drills as well, so might be worth consideration.
HTH,
Rod

Ajohnw
@ajohnw51620
Posted by Bill Wood 2 on 05/08/2016 20:09:21:
Any links to pictures or threads regarding honing a tool after grinding it ? I too have simply been making the face smoother.
Bill
I just use a slip stone. Not that easy to find now but the ones on ebay that are used for unclogging diamond wheels wont be too bad. Mine if finer. Places like MscDirect should stock the finer ones. Mine dates from my apprenticeship and is still going strong. It was a bit clogged with HSS but still worked ok, I've recently declogged it by cleaning it up a bit with the diamond honing sticks ArcEuro sell. Some people use these and similar for honing.
The main danger is rounding over the cutting edge with the stone or hone. Might be best to put that on a flat surface and place the top of the tool on it and move the tool around being careful to keep it flat on it. Then do the edges and any rad around the edges, not up and down. I do that periodically around the sides of the tool while it's in the lathe but I often use a V shaped tool. For a bar turning tool that for some reason is being called a knife tool a better trick is to hold it vertically flat on the tool and simply pull it up and do it more often. For the first hone put the stone or hone on a flat surface as per the top etc.
I have another stone that came from a turner. He had worn a groove in it that matched the rad he put on the end of his tools as he held it against it and pulled up every time he took a finishing cut.
A bit if light oil would probably stop stones and hones from clogging, Actually it could be done on emery cloth as well.
John
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Hopper
@hopper
The Arc Eurotrade website in the section titled "Articles" has a good article on changing the bearings on a Seig lathe. If you have it apart it would be worth converting from the standard ball bearings to the far superior tapered rollers, which IIRC is covered in the article. Ketan at Arc seems to be the fount of all wisdom on these machines. He does post on here at times so perhaps may have more to offer you.

David lawrence 3
@davidlawrence3
I used to run a mail order company for years until two years ago. I would send out orders over £ 100.00 post free, every now and then I would get an order and payment from Scotland, send off the box, then at the end of the month get the invoice from UK mail and see I had been charged £ 25.00 for sending a box to Aberdeen that should have been £ 10.00, the courier had there own ideas of what to charge for Scotland, it changed with the weather, I always lost out. As for northern Ireland if it too heavy for parcel force we gave refunds, £ 35.00 being a normal price for 10Kg to N.I. I see that Arc euro will send a 9Kg box to France for £ 9.00, now that's a bargain. The dealer often looses out don't blame him all then time, try paying with a debit card rather than a credit card, it all helps the hobby

Ajohnw
@ajohnw51620
Posted by Vic on 01/08/2016 17:16:11:
Thank you Michael, yes I did mean Serial Taps!
**LINK**
I did qualify this by saying I didn't have a "conventional" tap. I've now ordered a conventional taper tap to add to my arsenal to see if it's actually any better or worse!
Following that link I wonder when the hell Ketan will restock the ones he has run out of. Probably never if he is waiting to sell all of the other sizes. M4 has been like that for a long time.
John
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Vic
@vic
Thank you Michael, yes I did mean Serial Taps!
**LINK**
I did qualify this by saying I didn't have a "conventional" tap. I've now ordered a conventional taper tap to add to my arsenal to see if it's actually any better or worse!

alan ord 2
@alanord2
Hi Jason, thanks for the link. I did get a quotation from them but at 1300 Euro's for the unit and 63 Euro's postage it was way too expensive for me. I have carried out extensive research in Europe, US and China, which included finding another expensive supplier in the States and have decided to give up on my search. When I bought these from a local auction in South Yorkshire I thought I was buying 5C collets. I have since learned my lesson, buy in haste and repent at leisure. The collets are now resigned to the back of a draw!! I ended up buying a new 5C collet from Warco and a bunch of used collets at a competitive price from a local tool supplier.
Thanks to every body for their help and greatly appreciated.
Alan.

Ketan Swali
@ketanswali79440
After reading about Tomé from Dias Costas post, I asked him about them, discussed with our John S, and we decided to pay them a visit last Thursday. Here is a link with pictures and some factory footage of our day trip to Lisbon.
Arc is hoping to carry a range of their products soon. Thank you Dias Costa for introducing us to Tomé. 
Ketan at ARC.

Raymond Anderson
@raymondanderson34407
Gareth, Bought a Warco GH750 in either 2000 or 2001 and the only thing I did to it was to remove the original single phase motor and replaced it with a Eurotherm vfd [now made by Parker SSD ] and a three phase 3hp Siemens motor. The lathe is still accurate to this day never any problems. The only thing I have ever had "go " on me was the halogen worklight bulb, and that must have been after a good few years. This model is not made now
cheers.

dcosta
@dcosta
Hi Luke,
Luke: Could a belt drive mod bring the noise down to an acceptable level?
DC: Yes I do think so. However I've been expecting some project or kit to modify my milling and till now couldn't find it.
Luke: Do you think that this noise is due to the gearbox or the motor itself?
DC: It's due to the gear box and also to the transmission among the gears and the splines in the milling spindle.
I recomenbd you to see the message from Paul Lousick. If I was buying a milling machine perhaps I would buy an SX2 or SX3 from ArcEuroTrade.
Regards
Dias Costa

Bazyle
@bazyle
Arc SX3
Axminster – website not responding
warco – machine of similar price
chester – machine of similar price
yes I know not answering the question but when this sort of thing comes up I like to have links to the websites of relevance.
Adding a further spanner what about the similar priced 626 type which has a large following on here.
sigh, I want a bigger workshop and a pile of money.