Search Results for 'arc euro'

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Having compared the size or the ARC 4" vice which looked ideal I have decided its too big. The DH1 looks perfect apart from the cost

I am starting to come round to the idea of one of these.  The main benefit is its size.  http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Machine-Vices/Precision-Tool-Vices-Type-2 . How would I clamp them down?

Edited By petro1head on 21/01/2017 10:55:51

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Posted by Tony Marshall on 20/01/2017 23:58:46:

Just took delivery of a 4" vice from Arc Euro Trade to replace the one I bought with my Warco WM16 a few years ago. Here are the two side by side.

In this orientation, there is considerable overhang at the rear limiting the Y travel. This is compensated for, to some extent, by the fixed jaw being further back than my old one.

Without the swivel base the jaws are about 122mm above the table; removing the base bring the new one down 30mm to about the same height as the old one.

Seems ok so far.

Cheers, Tony

Looks interesting, what make/model was you first vice. Just trying to get an idea of size comparison

EDIT: Just checked you table size on the Warco website,  ​700 x180 so wider than my table.  Sting to wonder if that may be too big?

Edited By petro1head on 21/01/2017 09:39:51

[Tony MarshallParticipant @tonymarshall12301]

Just took delivery of a 4" vice from Arc Euro Trade to replace the one I bought with my Warco WM16 a few years ago. Here are the two side by side.

In this orientation, there is considerable overhang at the rear limiting the Y travel. This is compensated for, to some extent, by the fixed jaw being further back than my old one.

Without the swivel base the jaws are about 122mm above the table; removing the base bring the new one down 30mm to about the same height as the old one.

Seems ok so far.

Cheers, Tony

[Bob Brown 1Participant @bobbrown1]

I use one of these **LINK**

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

ARC do a 5" one that opens to 150mm in standard form and can take over 300mm thin stuff, versatile vice

Edited By JasonB on 20/01/2017 20:55:35

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

Just come in from a cold garage to take a couple of photos for the Worden build album. Happy with the progress so far. It's taking me a long time to do, but I'm getting there! Only time will tell if my mods to the original design will turn out to be improvements, or not.

On the left is the (appropriately) left hand side of the business end. I've changed the traverse mechanism in terms of materials as well as the means of actuation, which now includes a locking device. Right hand photo is the other side, showing the revised arrangement for traversing the table. The screw has been changed for one with a 1mm pitch and the whole is moved with a graduated handwheel from Arc Euro Trade. On to the motor mount and wiring, next, I think.

John

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Hi Nathan
It depends on your budget; look at ….

**LINK**

**LINK**

**LINK**

also look at…

**LINK**

parts 1-2-3 installing DRO on his Harrison 140 which is similar in size to your M250

George.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Posted by John Stevenson on 20/01/2017 11:28:19:

Waste of time.

Look to upgrading instead of spending money on what is basically a turns counter.

 

These readouts do not take into account any backlash in the screw so they are only as accurate as a worn screw.

+1 Concur with JS, look at getting something like… 

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Measurement/Digital-Readouts-with-Dedicated-Remote-Display

I have this type fitted to my mill.

​George.

 

 

Edited By mechman48 on 20/01/2017 12:07:32

Todays rave

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

You might want to look at the Sieg C0 customer reviews on the Axminster Power Tool site, they are not very positive. As a starting lathe, buying something that needs a lot of fettling to get it in a reasonable state isn't a great idea. Versions from other vendors, Arc Eurotrade come to mind (see link here) may be better finished. The small Sieg machine tools with DC motors and electronic speed control also have a reputation for blowing their electronic controller up – this could be a problem when you start and take an incautious cut depth or something digs in.

At various times I've looked at getting a small lathe for odd jobs when the Myford is set up for something else and the Peatol looked quite good, but I was always a bit unimpressed by the C0 looking at it at exhibitions.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Probably just as much to do with how the tips are used eg feeds, depth of cut and rigidity of machine though a good tip will be better than a pore one. Holders to a lesser degree most of mine are Glanze and seem to work OK for me.

If you want small holders then the hobby suppliers are nore likely to have them, JB cutting tools, Greenwood tools, ARC Eurotrade, Glanze (Chronos) to name but a few will have from 6×6 upwards.

[Nigel BennettParticipant @nigelbennett69913]

See before you buy; I'd get one at an exhibition. I bought a cheap Chinese 3-jaw off (I think) Warco – but it could have been Chester – as a "rough" chuck to save damaging my Griptru. My biggest gripe on the cheap chuck is the chamfers they put on the jaws – particularly at the end so that you can't grip a short length spigot. Otherwise it's fine for most purposes. Arc Euro do Indian Zither chucks and they're a lot better; Ketan sent me a photo of one before I ordered a 4-jaw recently.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 16/01/2017 09:31:30:

Posted by Hopper on 16/01/2017 08:51:28:

… The cross slide feed screw showing where it apparently has been snapped off and welded back on, almost straight, kind of, if you squint a bit.

.

… I presume you will just saw it off and dowel a replacement end onto it [if the feedscrew is worth salvaging].

Whilst you are about it, Arc's thrust bearing looks a sensible upgrade: **LINK**

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/projects/MYF001/myford-cstb-mod.html

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 16/01/2017 09:34:47

Bit worn on the handle end where it gets most use. So I figure I will saw it off, turn it around and as you say dowel a new end piece onto it, putting the worn section at the far end. OK for turning but maybe not so much for using the vertical slide on the rear T slots.

Or I could just put this one on the "anvil" end of the bed and hammer it straight.

I've an idea I have the original article somewhere in one of the old books re putting the roller thrust bearings etc on the cross slide screw so can probably pick up the bearings at the local bearing shop.

Edited By Hopper on 16/01/2017 10:03:38

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Hopper on 16/01/2017 08:51:28:

… The cross slide feed screw showing where it apparently has been snapped off and welded back on, almost straight, kind of, if you squint a bit.

.

… I presume you will just saw it off and dowel a replacement end onto it [if the feedscrew is worth salvaging].

Whilst you are about it, Arc's thrust bearing looks a sensible upgrade: **LINK**

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/projects/MYF001/myford-cstb-mod.html

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 16/01/2017 09:34:47

[Andrew TinsleyParticipant @andrewtinsley63637]

I want to buy some indexable tool holders and tips. I need them for getting through the skin of some castings. The coding must be comprehensible to our more experienced forum members, But I don't have a clue! Is there anywhere that I can find definitions?

The median priced tool holders from such as Chronos, ARC Eurotrade and Rotagrip, to name a few, seem much of a muchness. They look as though they came out of the same factory in China. Does anyone find one source better than another? I can't see the point of going for something like Sumitomo and other upmarket tool holders for rough work, or are they worth the extra long term?

Thanks,

Andrew.

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

There are multisize slitting saw arbors available with an half inch shank from the usual supplier ie China. Forget that as they have the usual quality and are made for a guaranteed fit ie small so the saw will run off centre. You are better off biting the cost bullet and getting one of these for the size required. It will also hold some gear cutters and side and face cutters. There are removable spacers and you then secure it with the nut on the end. (some other versions have a set screw in the end.

Think I might get one myself while there is the discount.

The cheaper option is one of these if you can machine it carefully to provide a shoulder then a cup shaped clamping washer held by an axial bolt. The cup will allow for different width saws.

In my view mild steel will do as our church locks are nice and smooth from a couple of hundred years use.

Edited By Bazyle on 15/01/2017 14:55:34

[nigel jones 5Participant @nigeljones5]

I worked as a coded welder on BNFL projects for too long with very good equipment but all I have now is a clarke 170amp mig (says 151 but when cold it wil put out 170ish) No euro torch, just a cheapo unit which I can just about get into spray mode if cranked fully up and cold. For thw money it is brilliant. Mine is an older version of the 151EN and these are good enough for home use. I modified the roller carrier to strengthen it up as this is a weak point, especially if you are running fast wire speeds. I would very strongly advocate buying or renting a 1/3 or 1/2 size bottle as you will need a decent flow rate outdoors and the poxy little cans empty extremely quickly. Only just read the above post!! Marc, mine run from an RCD and it will trip but only at full duty cycle by which time the earth lead is about to melt anyway

e

[Curtis RutterParticipant @curtisrutter61973]

Hi all so I'm also new to lathe working and after reading the post HSS tooling it is. As Arc are doing 10% off was going to order this set for my Myford ML7 **LINK**

But there's various sizes, which one do I get?

[Ex contributorParticipant @mgnbuk]

I use 2MT collets to hold milling cutters in my FB2 clone to minimise the tool projection. Most milling cutters have "standard" shank diameters – 3,6,8,10,12 will cover most eventualities. Mine came from ArcEuroTool **LINK** at a Harrogate show (see earlier post about Arc having a 10% discount offer on at the moment) & have worked well.

Using an ER collet chuck will extend the cutter a long way from the spindle nose (increased possibility of chatter + wear on bearings + eats into available headroom) & ER collets offer a shorter gripping length compared to a Morse taper collet. The FB2 (& clones) have a rather strange spindle bearing arrangement that uses a "sized" needle roller bearing running directly on the hardened spindle & quill directly – there is no adjustment for wear, so it seems preferable to me to reduce the loading on this bearing as much as possible to maximise spindle life.

IIRC Graham Meek has described a reworking of his FB2 spindle to take taper roller bearings, but I don't know where Graham has details of this now since he had all his content on the ME forums removed.

Nigel B

[Martin 100Participant @martin100]

For motor sizing the articles by Dick Stephen on his conversion of a Sieg X3 mill to CNC in MEW a few years ago might be useful as it goes back to fundamentals rather than just making a wild stab in the dark.

Part 1 (2nd link on this page)

Sieg X3 Mill – CNC Conversion

Edited By Martin 100 on 09/01/2017 14:17:58

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Posted by Mark C on 08/01/2017 18:23:51:

. Perhaps someone with real experience (as opposed to speculation or google) might be able to answer?

Mark

.

That should cull the replies down then

Yes the idea is to place these on a normal magnetic chuck to get finer gratings for holding finer parts.

They often work one way better than the other. You can get various shapes as well up to large section and also available in a vee block format.

Not quite the same but a similar type here.

[Mark RandParticipant @markrand96270]

They are actually genuine Bijur fittings, But made by Bijur's Chinese plant! They're the metric series, but I guess you might prefer the imperial ones.

I got mine from Arc Eurotrade.

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Posted by Ajohnw on 07/01/2017 17:27:35:

Posted by petro1head on 07/01/2017 16:43:30:

Posted by ian j on 07/01/2017 16:27:34:

Looks very good,

What make/model is the vice on the milling table? How do rate it?

Ian

I think I got it from Warco. Its 75mm jaw and opens about 70mm. To be honest it does not open wide enough for me so may be looking to replace it with this – **LINK**

Edited By petro1head on 07/01/2017 16:51:03

Personally I would look at the similar ones that can be used on or off the swivel base to give max headroom when the swivel isn't needed.

If I thought you could collect from B'ham I'd also mention that I have one virtually unused that I want to sell at some point. I think Arc do them too. There are several ways of holding things on some of them.

John

–

Like this? **LINK**

Actually the one I lined to can also be used without the swivel base as I have the smaller version

Edited By petro1head on 07/01/2017 18:01:53

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

Posted by JasonB on 06/01/2017 18:44:44:

If you use the MGEH type grooving and parting holders then APT do a polished insert for Ali that fits them. I have taken to using this holder more than the GTN holder (Glanze etc) for parting since one arrived from ARC Euro.

Do these fit any of the 25mm / 1" deep holders that are available Jason?

I can only see one polished insert on there for grooving / profiling – 6mm wide. The others are just uncoated

John

–

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Posted by JasonB on 06/01/2017 18:44:44:

If you use the MGEH type grooving and parting holders then APT do a polished insert for Ali that fits them. I have taken to using this holder more than the GTN holder (Glanze etc) for parting since one arrived from ARC Euro.

I was just looking a the Chronos site and Glanze also do something similar. Is this system better than the blade type?